Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

Yes, they're the bigger of the two, the 231mm. Red wouldn't have been my first color choice, but I haven't run into anything, so reliability has been as good as can be expected. I've even submerged them in muddy water/river crossings multiple times with nary a complaint from them. As has been stated, they're all pretty much the same regardless of the source.

So you recommend these ? Vs Napa or other brand ? Because I was thinking of getting used OEM and rebuild it. And powder coat it.
 
So you recommend these ? Vs Napa or other brand ? Because I was thinking of getting used OEM and rebuild it. And powder coat it.
That sounds like a lot of time and effort I wouldn't want to spend. I was happy to buy something I could bolt on straight out of the box.
OK so I ordered the kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOBMFAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but it apparently doesn't come w/ pad hardware, I would like to replace these, does anyone have a link? I'm not even sure what type pads they are, not much info on the listing.
I didn't use anything aside from what came in the link. No rattles or other undesirable noises as a result.
 
Kit arrived today, I couldn't be more pleased!!! Very nice powder coating, all new components, heavy as hell! One thing though, the round retaining clips around the pistons seem to be slightly off center, should I correct that some how?
edit: I just popped them off and reinstalled, working them into the grooves where necessary with a bic pen, careful to not gouge the rubber. Took 1 minute. I considered bending them a little to make them tighter then decided against that, they fit fine :)
 
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Somebody got lucky. The *******s canceled my order at $206, and refuse to honor that price despite Amazon reps talking to them.
 
I recently completed my TBU with the following:
NAPA rotors
NAPA 13WL reman calipers
OEM Tundra pads/shims

After a very proper bleed proceedure and bed-in, I can't seem to get the brakes
to feel a little more "alive". i.e. should I be able to lock the fronts in a "panic stop"?
I can't recall if the 3rd gens are 4whl anti-lock, but I can feel the rear ABS.

Is the booster not giving enough to the new, larger fronts?
With engine off, pedal firms up correctly though.
There is no judder, noise, or other noticable issues.

***EDIT***
Today I unbolted the ABS fuse to check if I could lock the fronts on pavement and could not.
The brake system feels smoother however, thus re-confirming my distain for ABS...


The brakes feel good - but not great yet...

(Sorry, for the noob questions, this is my first brake "upgrade" - usally just normal maint.)
 
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I recently completed my TBU with the following:
NAPA rotors
NAPA 13WL reman calipers
OEM Tundra pads/shims

After a very proper bleed proceedure and bed-in, I can't seem to get the brakes
to feel a little more "alive". i.e. should I be able to lock the fronts in a "panic stop"?
I can't recall if the 3rd gens are 4whl anti-lock, but I can feel the rear ABS.

Is the booster not giving enough to the new, larger fronts?
With engine off, pedal firms up correctly though.
There is no judder, noise, or other noticable issues.

***EDIT***
Today I unbolted the ABS fuse to check if I could lock the fronts on pavement and could not.
The brake system feels smoother however, thus re-confirming my distain for ABS...


The brakes feel good - but not great yet...

(Sorry, for the noob questions, this is my first brake "upgrade" - usally just normal maint.)

I seem to recall people having to replace the master cylinder in this situation? W/ a T100
edit: try this? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/221246-brake-problems-after-tundra-brake-upgrade.html
 
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Just the time needed to do them right is all that is keeping me from it. I have to hang siding and new windows and doors on my 2400 sq. ft. house then paint, all before it gets too cold out.

I painted my house two years ago, and it's a smaller 1100 sq ft single story home. I'll never do it again. I probably saved $4,000 doing it myself but was the most tedious thing I've ever done with all the sanding, prepping etc. I have a sprayer and it still took forever. Luckily I had the foresight to use Kelly Moor's powder based paint (not dye) which is supposed to last 20+ years. We'll see...

Anyway, to continue the caliper conversation, almost all calipers on the market are reman'd OEM ones. Some have the patience to rebuilt it themselves to save a few bucks but they all function the same way. You can't go wrong with any of them.

With any reman'd part, you do have a slight risk of getting a defective part but all companies should take back a defective part.
 
I just picked up a 98 4runner limited thats in need of a brake job. Id like to upgrade to the Tundra brakes but I'm afraid my wheels aren't going to clear. Id prefer to not run spacers and I'm just wondering if anyone has grinder down the caliper instead of their wheels? Id prefer not to trim my wheels and/or get all new wheels and tires.
 
199mm doesn't seem like much of an upgrade besides thicker rotors. I guess ill just keep an eye out for compatiable wheels and go from there.
 
I just picked up a 98 4runner limited thats in need of a brake job. Id like to upgrade to the Tundra brakes but I'm afraid my wheels aren't going to clear. Id prefer to not run spacers and I'm just wondering if anyone has grinder down the caliper instead of their wheels? Id prefer not to trim my wheels and/or get all new wheels and tires.

I've done it. If you go back far enough you see photos of where I grinded. Don't grind the caliper, just the high point on the back of the split-spoke, you'll know where.

The downsides are that you cannot rotate your tires unless you do all four wheels. I ended up getting a set of Tacoma TRD wheels for almost free so I'm currently saving up for new tires and then will have those on instead. They will clear just fine.
 
About how much are you grinding off on the wheels? Is it anything to cause concern of integrity?

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