HELLA 007133831 Micro FF Series 12V/55W Halogen Driving Lamp Kit

[Antman]

Yeah, that fusebox is definitely the way to go. It will make things so much easier down the road. I'm an idiot for not going that route with all the stuff I have wired up. I think one day... And the list GROWS.
I don't think those Daystar switches will fit there, but they are awesome- so find a spot for 'em!

 

[phillyd2]

Depending on what options you have, you might have 2-3 open slots next to the RSCA button. You can either use the switches that come with the lights or a lot of people like to use Daystar rocker switches.

Thank you!!! Google is a wonderful thing IF one uses the right terms. 'Light switch' did not work but 'rocker switches' did the trick. I like this as its more OEM. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/tech/switch/sw_front.jpg Would they work in a 5th gen?

 

[phillyd2]

I mounted mine here...

Why two? One for each front pair or one for front and one for rear?

 

[phillyd2]

...... I had them wired to the high beams through a relay .....

Hmmm. I had not thought of this but sounds even better. Any down side? Was it hard to wire?

Hmmm. I had not thought of this but sounds even better. Any down side? Was it hard to wire?

 

[lonesouth]

Hmmm. I had not thought of this but sounds even better. Any down side? Was it hard to wire?

Hmmm. I had not thought of this but sounds even better. Any down side? Was it hard to wire?

That is how I have my Hella 500s wired. It requires fewer wires, no wires running into the cab. KISS

 

[phillyd2]

That is how I have my Hella 500s wired. It requires fewer wires, no wires running into the cab. KISS

Since we are talking about lights on top of the Gobi rack I'm assuming that wires will still need to be run into the cab, no?

Any down side to this kind of install? For example, do you ever wish you can turn on or off your 500's independently?

 

[Okki]

For me they are either all on, or all off... plus I like to be able to turn them on when the engine isn't running so that's a separate switch anyway.
I'll be running my wires the same way Antman did. via the lift-gate under the rear of the head liner, over to the driver side, down the side, under the door sills to the front and under the dash.

 

[lonesouth]

The wires should be able to run up the windshield trim as was done in this install for the antenna wires.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/audio-electronics/42317-unique-hidden-xm-gps-antenna-install.html

Truth be told, the 4R is now the wife's car. Although, I can't imagine a scenario where you would want the brights on, but not the additional light from the 500s.

 

[Antman]

Why two? One for each front pair or one for front and one for rear?

Correct- one for front lights(4) one for rear(2).

This is how I ran my wiring-

It's actually alot neater than that now- have to update pics...

 

[Antman]

If anyone is interested- it would be easy to wire the switch to do both : on anytime, off, or on with highbeams. Need a SPDT switch. Middle terminal would go to your light relay trigger. The other two posts would be 1- hot always, and 2- hibeam hot only. Then you have the best of both worlds, if that's what you want... . Here's mine at night

 

[Kraeken]

The wiring will be fine- the bulbs will not last as long. Sorry I didn't make that clear for you.

Lol no problem. That seems more reasonable! The more I look at these, the more I think rectangular driving lights will look better on the Defiant than round ones. The 5th gen has a lot more squared off angles that would be complimented visually by squared off accessories.

Is there a way to wire these so they operate independently of the headlights? I had my 500's hooked up to the headlights. They turned on and off with the switch, but only when the headlights are on.

 

[Okki]

@ Antman,

What kind of fuse did you put on your 4 lights? 20amps? 25 Amps? the fuse box rating tops out at 30amps Figured I might as well order the fuses with the box since I'm already paying for shipping.

Thanks!

Okki

 

[Antman]

I used a 30 amp fuse...

 

[sp8ball]

if anyone is interested- it would be easy to wire the switch to do both : On anytime, off, or on with highbeams. Need a spdt switch. Middle terminal would go to your light relay trigger. The other two posts would be 1- hot always, and 2- hibeam hot only. Then you have the best of both worlds, if that's what you want... . Here's mine at night

 

[kingpin748]

Kurt Russel for the win!

Let's hope they don't butcher the prequel.

 

[Okki]

@antman

Did you run both a black and red wire for the front and rear lights (i.e. 2 red and 2 black) all the way to the roof? or did you ground the lights on the roof somewhere and only ran a red wire for power?

The switches need to be grounded, but I thought I could piggy-back of the negative of any nearby switches to make that work.

Anyone have any suggestions on switch locations?
If I use existing switch locations, I don't have enough free locations to add auxiliary lights to the roof front, roof rear, and prerunner bar.

Using Existing Location:

Leaving the existing locations unused and placing roof lights in front of shifter:

(I would put the front and rear roof lights here, but didn't have the rear roof switch handy)

Okki

 

[Antman]

Okki- I ran a single 12 gauge power wire to the roof rack and attached it to both wires on the drivers side of the rack ( it's a duplex white/black wire pre- run in the Gobi and I twisted them together to use as a single feed). Then I used the wires on the passenger side of the rack- twisted together as well for my ground. This allows a ground in only one spot on the rack.

After the ground wire was attached, I covered the bolt and ring terminal with liquid electrical tape. Shouldn't have any ground issues down the road. All exposed wiring has thick shrink-wrap on any areas that are exposed.

 

[Okki]

Kewl. so to recap, you ran a single power wire (I will run two and leave one rolled in the jack storage until I get the rear lights) and wired the ground straight from the rack to the bolts connecting it to the roof.

Any benefit to running a black ground wire and grounding it elsewhere?

Okki

Okki- I ran a simgle 12 gauge power wire to the roof rack and attached it to both wires on the drivers side of the rack ( it's a duplex white/black wire pre- run in the Gobi and I twisted them together to use as a single feed). Then I used the wires on the passenger side of the rack- twisted together as well for my ground. This allows a ground in only one spot on the rack.

After the ground wire was attached, I covered the bolt and ring terminal with liquid electrical tape. Shouldn't have any ground issues down the road. All exposed wiring has thick shrink-wrap on any areas that are exposed.

 

[Antman]

Well, I guess a benefit would be that you wouldn't have a visible ground under one of your rack bolts- but- you would have another wire to run tothe rack when you can get a ground right there...take your pick...

 

[Okki]

LOL nop... the less wires to run, the better... But let me ask you this question.. what kind of wire did you run for you CB antenna? it wouldnt happen to have been a 12 gauge wire? :shrug: :cheers:

Okki

Well, I guess a benefit would be that you wouldn't have a visible ground under one of your rack bolts- but- you would have another wire to run tothe rack when you can get a ground right there...take your pick...