Antman
Elite Member
Uh, No. You need to run a CB Coax cable. Mine is a Firestick NGP(No Ground Plane) Antenna kit. See this link-
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/85563-using-cb-through-aux-jack.html
HELLA 007133831 Micro FF Series 12V/55W Halogen Driving Lamp Kit
- Thread starter Okki
- Start date
Uh, No. You need to run a CB Coax cable. Mine is a Firestick NGP(No Ground Plane) Antenna kit. See this link-
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/85563-using-cb-through-aux-jack.html
yeah... I knew that was the answer... would have to be a shielded wire. Not in the budget right now to get both the antenna kit and the CB. Looks like I wont be prewiring for the CB.. although I am running 2 powerlines so i've got the rear lights covered when i get around to those.
I hate this economy... it definitely is cutting into my play money.
I think I settled on making a template and cutting into the center console. That way I can keep the roof light switches together and have plenty of slots left in the dash for the compressor etc. Kinda bummed they will be side-ways, but I dont think it looks that bad.
Okki
I hate this economy... it definitely is cutting into my play money.
I think I settled on making a template and cutting into the center console. That way I can keep the roof light switches together and have plenty of slots left in the dash for the compressor etc. Kinda bummed they will be side-ways, but I dont think it looks that bad.
Okki
@Antman...
Am I understanding the schema below correctly that they are using a 15amp fuse? Of course, that's for 2 lights and I'll be running 4.
So battery to fuse box > fuse box: 20amp fuse > to single relay > to switch (what does the lower light positive connect to?) > to lights.
I guess I should draw up the full schema... Since I'm obviously struggling a bit with this, I'm sure there are more electrically challenged people out there who would like cool Hella lights on their roof
Okki
Am I understanding the schema below correctly that they are using a 15amp fuse? Of course, that's for 2 lights and I'll be running 4.
So battery to fuse box > fuse box: 20amp fuse > to single relay > to switch (what does the lower light positive connect to?) > to lights.
I guess I should draw up the full schema... Since I'm obviously struggling a bit with this, I'm sure there are more electrically challenged people out there who would like cool Hella lights on their roof
Okki
harper7
Senior Member
@Antman...
Am I understanding the schema below correctly that they are using a 15amp fuse? Of course, that's for 2 lights and I'll be running 4.
So battery to fuse box > fuse box: 20amp fuse > to single relay > to switch (what does the lower light positive connect to?) > to lights.
I guess I should draw up the full schema... Since I'm obviously struggling a bit with this, I'm sure there are more electrically challenged people out there who would like cool Hella lights on their roof
Okki
On the Carling switches....The lower light positive # 6 can just be jumped to the #2 pos to be on all the time if you have #2 hot or on if you have it on switched(acc.) like I do it will only be on when the keys on.
Or you can put it in series with you dash lights but you'll have to trace them out with the wiring diagram.
Don't know if you put the switches in the middle yet but they make a 3 switch holder for those Carlings switches you have. You would have to cut a whole in your lower dash for it. That's what I'm going to do. Carling 3 Switch holder
They also make a six switch holder.
My lights up top I wired to an old fashioned foot operated high beam switch on the floor. They still have a master switch but easier when on back country roads to use my foot rather then reach for a switch.
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Antman
Elite Member
Harper7- you have some cool ideas- like the foot switch!
Dash light positive is solid green. If you put the switches in the center console you can tap into the main harness right there. See Sp8balls thread when I installed his cupholder LEDs-
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...r-s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-30.html#post780695
Dash light positive is solid green. If you put the switches in the center console you can tap into the main harness right there. See Sp8balls thread when I installed his cupholder LEDs-
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...r-s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-30.html#post780695
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I asked the Mrs's last night where she'd prefer the switches and she didnt like the center console idea, so I called OTRATTW and added the 3 switch housing to my order. Thanks for the heads up on that Harper7!
Once the fusebox comes in I'm fabricating a bracket for it and get started on the wiring... I may run the the lines to the back of the car this weekend and get those out of the way.
Okki
Once the fusebox comes in I'm fabricating a bracket for it and get started on the wiring... I may run the the lines to the back of the car this weekend and get those out of the way.
Okki
Alrighty.. This weekend I FINALLY get to run some wires. I finished the fabrication of my Aux fuse box brackets and painted it so I should be all ready to go.
When researching that I had an appropriate size wire to run from the battery to the fusebox I came across the below schematic:
So the two questions for the evening:
1) What gauge wire should I run between the battery and the positive bus on the fusebox?
2) Should I head down to autozone and pick up relay and an inline fuse?
2a) If I need the inline fuse, should it be a 20amp when the fuse for my 4 Hella lights is a 30amp? makes no sense to me to have the battery connection go out before the fusebox?
The fuzebox is:
Product ID: 5025B
Blue Seas ST Blade Fuse Block With Cover
6 position with negative bus
Clear insulating cover with label recesses accept Small Format Labels
Cover Satisfies ABYC/USCG requirements for insulation
Tin-plated copper buses and fuse clips give 30 Amperes rating per circuit
Accepts ATO and ATC fast acting blade fuses
OEM version, labels not included
Height 3.315 inches
Width 4.894 inches
I also just got my invoice from Gobi, so the rack is on it's way!
Okki
When researching that I had an appropriate size wire to run from the battery to the fusebox I came across the below schematic:
So the two questions for the evening:
1) What gauge wire should I run between the battery and the positive bus on the fusebox?
2) Should I head down to autozone and pick up relay and an inline fuse?
2a) If I need the inline fuse, should it be a 20amp when the fuse for my 4 Hella lights is a 30amp? makes no sense to me to have the battery connection go out before the fusebox?
The fuzebox is:
Product ID: 5025B
Blue Seas ST Blade Fuse Block With Cover
6 position with negative bus
Clear insulating cover with label recesses accept Small Format Labels
Cover Satisfies ABYC/USCG requirements for insulation
Tin-plated copper buses and fuse clips give 30 Amperes rating per circuit
Accepts ATO and ATC fast acting blade fuses
OEM version, labels not included
Height 3.315 inches
Width 4.894 inches
I also just got my invoice from Gobi, so the rack is on it's way!
Okki
Sundog7121
Member
OK! Years later, I'm looking for just the right lights that won't break the bank and will look awesome on front of Gobi Stealth.
Are you guys still using the little Hella Micro FFs as described in this thread.
Most interested in words of wisdom from Okki and Antman on this. And anyone else who has good lighting input. Or any lighting input.
Are you guys still using the little Hella Micro FFs as described in this thread.
Most interested in words of wisdom from Okki and Antman on this. And anyone else who has good lighting input. Or any lighting input.
