Hello, I’m New to the 4th Gen life style Starting today

[MikeinNH67]

Coolant will get crusty but a clump that size is how sealant works. Just my opinion.

I hope Im wrong

I have seen it build up like that on the reddish stuff but not really any other colors. I don't know what sealant would look like though. Hopefully it's a painless fix.

 

[Drcoffee]

Maybe I can't tell from the picture but what makes you think sealant was used? The coolant in these is a pink color and when it dries up it would like like that bubbly stuff. Looks like a very slow leak to me. My 2 cents.

When I removed and emptied the radiator out, there were silver flecks at the bottom. Like aluminum radiator sealer.

I also found p0456 evap leak. I changed the evap purge valve on the intake and the gas cap. That seems to have fixed that code. The steering is stiff which means the intermediate shaft is rusty and I have that on my bench waiting to go in along with a new T-stat. And to address the LTFT issue I have 3 new fuel injectors and intake gaskets for cyl 2,4,6.

Thank God I can do the work myself. This would cost a fortune at a service shop.

 

[GSD4runner]

how's the 4runner treating you??

 

[montijo505]

When I removed and emptied the radiator out, there were silver flecks at the bottom. Like aluminum radiator sealer.



I also found p0456 evap leak. I changed the evap purge valve on the intake and the gas cap. That seems to have fixed that code. The steering is stiff which means the intermediate shaft is rusty and I have that on my bench waiting to go in along with a new T-stat. And to address the LTFT issue I have 3 new fuel injectors and intake gaskets for cyl 2,4,6.



Thank God I can do the work myself. This would cost a fortune at a service shop.

It sure is satisfying knowing you're saving all that money. Plus you know you're taking your time and doing the job right.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[MikeinNH67]

When I removed and emptied the radiator out, there were silver flecks at the bottom. Like aluminum radiator sealer.

I also found p0456 evap leak. I changed the evap purge valve on the intake and the gas cap. That seems to have fixed that code. The steering is stiff which means the intermediate shaft is rusty and I have that on my bench waiting to go in along with a new T-stat. And to address the LTFT issue I have 3 new fuel injectors and intake gaskets for cyl 2,4,6.

Thank God I can do the work myself. This would cost a fortune at a service shop.

Moving along, certain saves when you can do it yourself. That steering shaft is a pain to remove and install for that matter. Tight spaces and lining things up is tough. One tooth off reflects on the wheel quite a bit.

 

[Drcoffee]

Moving along, certain saves when you can do it yourself. That steering shaft is a pain to remove and install for that matter. Tight spaces and lining things up is tough. One tooth off reflects on the wheel quite a bit.

I hope to put a witness mark in line with the shaft seam line. Whether its a dremmel cut or 1/8” drill or just the air hammer to mark the alignment before removing. The upper shaft has the flats i assume cant be installed wrong, but the rack stem needs a mark.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I hope to put a witness mark in line with the shaft seam line. Whether its a dremmel cut or 1/8” drill or just the air hammer to mark the alignment before removing. The upper shaft has the flats i assume cant be installed wrong, but the rack stem needs a mark.

Making a line with a dremel would certainly be nice but fitting it in there is the hard part. I made marks with a sharpie and still had a hard time lining it up. I removed the top side maybe 5 times to try and get it right with test drives between them. If you could lock the steering and the wheels somehow it would help but one tooth is a small amount when lining up a mark that's hard to see. I think the upper with the bolt flat will move at least a tooth either way from center although I may have got annoyed with it enough that I ran a drill or file through the bolt hole to make it work where it was centered. Pulling the bottom out to readjust is brutal. One tip that should help is to only slide one end on a small amount then drive it to check alignment, not far or fast in case it pops out but it is a tight fit so shouldn't.

 

[Drcoffee]

Update:

LTFT issue - I got around to removing the intake plenum and found oil escaping from between the lower intake and plenum, the gasket was compressed and rock hard. After cleaning up that mess, I pulled the drivers side fuel injectors and found 2-3 holes in the nozzles were blocked on all 3 injectors and #6 was particularly dirty. Reinstalled the new reman injectors (GB from rockauto).After looking at the oxidized valve covers, I couldnt just put them back on that way. Took some extra time, wire brushed the valve covers and sprayed them black. FYI, I have used rattle can paints that always seem to disappoint. They either come off with chemicals or just chip looking at it. I found a rattle can paint from rustoleum called Tractor and Implement paint at Tractor Supply and Menards costing $9 (pricier than others) but this paint really surprised me. Good stuff Maynard.

Reinstalled the intake plenum and new oem gasket. Went much easier than I expected, but I wasnt rushing. Net result, the BANK 2 LTFT dropped from 8% to 3.8%. Im not chasing this any longer. 4% is just fine. I think the biggest factor was clogged fuel injectors. It looked like gravel blocking the injectors and a cleaner would do nothing to fix it.

The emissions code P0456 was fixed with a new evap valve on the intake plenum and new gas cap. Truck idles perfectly smooth now.

Success!!