help: 2000 4runner IAC screw stripped

[stoney]

Hi All,
I need help now. I was trying to clean my IAC on the throttle body. I bought the JIS screwdrivers to take those IAC screws off. But due to those screws are so tight and so fragile, I took out 3 of them but the 4th one just got stripped. I can not get it off. So I clean the throttle body and put everything back. Now I get RPM at about 1000 on break but 1500RPM on park. Will the car stilll pass SMOG? Did I messed up something?
Now if I need to replace IAC, I do need to take it off the throttle body. Does anybody had similar experience know:
1. how to take the stripped screw off the IAC? What kind of tool will be most efficient (stripped screw driver with impact driver??)?
2. Where can I buy those screws? part number? Length of the screw? Any replacement screw available somewhere?
3. Where do you guys get the throttle body in case I need to replace the whole thing?
Thanks for your help.

--stoney

 

[BrianSD_42]

Will it pass smog? It very well could.

IAC issues are often like ghosts they come and go and the computer doesn't even know it happened. They rarely ever throw a code and it is either working or the engine dies. I think as long as you don't have any recent codes it will pass just fine.

I ended up swapping out my entire TB with a used one for like $130 off of a wreck. Check ebay. Lots of legit salvage yards post on eBay with a 6 month no questions asked exchange policy.

 

[stoney]

I am in CA. I heard the somg check look at the idle RPM too. So I just want to make sure mine is OK for smog. Normal RPM at park is 600-700 at park?

My 4runner still young and throttle body is very clean. So I really dont want to swap out the whole throttle body. But I really dont know how to take the stripped screw out and where to buy the replacement screws.

stoney

 

[TheDurk]

21821-25180 - Genuine Toyota SCREW

Is it snapped off level? If so, drill and retap. Not easy, since screw is harder than TB. start with smallest drill bit you can (left hand thread ideal--they can do miracles.)

 

[BrianSD_42]

[MENTION=113966]stoney[/MENTION]

Has it thrown any codes because of the IAC?

If not then I doubt it will matter for smog very much. Fix it for sure but the IAC does not typically effect smog. My IAC acted up for YEARS before I finally fixed it and I had it smogged more than once during that time.

 

[stoney]

Thanks for the part number. I dont know if dealer has it (probably buy 4) or not.

The cross on the screw head is round now with just a little bit of the original cross.

I was thinking that something like the following:
Sears.com

with impact screw driver could take it out?

Or some kind of clamp or pliers to grab the screw head and twist it out.

 

[stoney]

No. So far there is no code yet.

[MENTION=113966]stoney[/MENTION]

Has it thrown any codes because of the IAC?

If not then I doubt it will matter for smog very much. Fix it for sure but the IAC does not typically effect smog. My IAC acted up for YEARS before I finally fixed it and I had it smogged more than once during that time.

 

[stoney]

I just drove out for a while and now I got a CEL P0171. I did clean the MAF sensor yesterday but with the throttle body cleaner and then with some electronic contact cleaner.

What can I do now?

 

[stoney]

Could it be vacuum leak? Something I did not tight up enough?

--stoney

 

[stoney]

I found out I might lost the clip which clips the air hose to the box has the air filter. The stock number of the clip is 9613241300. Will this cause a vacuum leak? Where can I buy it?

I just can not find the clip anywhere in my garage.

 

[stoney]

SOLVED: help: 2000 4runner IAC screw stripped

Hi All,
The stripped IAC screwed has been successfully removed. The IAC has been cleaned. My high idle is now fixed. Here is the story:
Thanks to TheDurk who provided the screw part number. I called 2local Toyota dealership for the screw: one just told me they dont sell the screws separately and I need to buy the whole throttle body including the IAC (*BS*). The other dealership has it for $1.74 and I got 2 from them.
So today I decided to attempt to fix the issue. Before I started, I got a power impact screw driver and some impact screw driver bits, a torque wrench (so I wont over-tight the throttle body screws), and screw extractor. The screw extractor did not get the stripped screw out instead it drilled a whole in the screw head. I hammed a philip screw driver on the screw which created some kind of cross on the screw head. Then I used the impact screw driver with impact bits. First it just keep spinning on the screw. Then I put the strength on the impact driver and with 2-3 clicks on the power trigger, the screw loose.
The IAC was also clogged with carbon. I cleaned it as much as possible without removing the controller.
I also found out the throttle body gasket was installed wrong. The straight side was on the bottom. The straight side should be on the right hand side. This most likely caused the high idle RPM and the P0171 code. Last time was in the hurry to reassemble everything back and did not pay too much attention to this.
Now the warm idle is around 900 RPM at park and 6-700 RPM in gear.
Thanks for everybody's help.

--stoney

 

[Reer0801]

I can't start a new thread and I have looked everywhere. Where is the IAC in a 2002 4runner. I've taken off the TB and opened it up and it's all gears. No pictures or videos of the location. My throttle body doesn't look like majority of the 3rd gen 4runners out there.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I can't start a new thread and I have looked everywhere. Where is the IAC in a 2002 4runner. I've taken off the TB and opened it up and it's all gears. No pictures or videos of the location. My throttle body doesn't look like majority of the 3rd gen 4runners out there.

You have a 2001 or 2002 I'm guessing? They are a bit different. The IAC is on the bottom of the throttle body, only way to get to it is to remove the throttle body entirely. It looks like this held on by four brass screws:

 

[Reer0801]

You have a 2001 or 2002 I'm guessing? They are a bit different. The IAC is on the bottom of the throttle body, only way to get to it is to remove the throttle body entirely. It looks like this held on by four brass screws:

I've taken this off. That part you have is not on my throttle body. In fact I have removed all screws to the point that I'm just looking at gears inside the throttle body. Nothing that even remotely looks like the picture.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've taken this off. That part you have is not on my throttle body. In fact I have removed all screws to the point that I'm just looking at gears inside the throttle body. Nothing that even remotely looks like the picture.

The drive by wire throttle bodies are completely different than the older ones. I just pulled up the FSM, and there is no IAC on those type.

I had a '02 junker in my backyard and sold the unit before I learned much about how to service them, if at all. Is there a particular reason you are looking to adjust your idle?

 

[Reer0801]

The drive by wire throttle bodies are completely different than the older ones. I just pulled up the FSM, and there is no IAC on those type.

I had a '02 junker in my backyard and sold the unit before I learned much about how to service them, if at all. Is there a particular reason you are looking to adjust your idle?

It revs up to 1700 rpm at start up and slowly goes down to 1k and stays there for a bit then eventually 650 after probably 10minutes. This never happened before. I consider it rough and sometimes the rpm would go up for no reason just idling. Nothing was turned on or off. The rpm goes straight down to 600 when on drive or reverse.

I just changed the valve cover gaskets and everything besides the head gasket.
Replaced: timing belt, idler pulley and bolt, tensioner, tensioner bearing, water pump, thermostat, crankshaft bolt, power steering pump, power steering rack, O2 sensors, air fuel ratio sensor, spark plugs, spark plugs wires, radiator, and 1 ignition coil (the center one).

This just started happening after I replaced the power steering rack. I had an issue with the pump not getting a good seal and ps fluid sprayed all over the passenger side of the vehicle after start up. I turned it off, took off the batter and washed it all down with water and soap. I replaced the ps pump immediately.

Then a p0100 and p0110 started showing, I'm wondering if I had fried something with the water. I didn't get this code until after all the work and there is no CEL. I followed the fsm of troubleshooting and everything tested good. The voltage at maf and the terminal vg of the ecm connector was all within the specs, there's continuity on all the grounds. So it says to replace ecu but Im looking for a manual to test that before i just replace it.

I don't know if that's all related to the weird idle I am having. I've seen some say burping the cooling system and I've done that a a few times already and it didn't change. I also noticed that after disconnecting the battery for 10minutes and starting it back in again remedies the issue just for that startup. No weird idle on the first start. So it really looks like I'm leaning towards the ECU but I want to explore all possibilities.

 

[Aznwolf118]

2001 and 2002 IAC valve is part of the Throttle body.

the dealerships want about 1k ish new for them. its sealed and calibrated from the factory. need to look for the part number in the records, but they are getting harder to come by.

 

[gamefreakgc]

It revs up to 1700 rpm at start up and slowly goes down to 1k and stays there for a bit then eventually 650 after probably 10minutes. This never happened before. I consider it rough and sometimes the rpm would go up for no reason just idling. Nothing was turned on or off. The rpm goes straight down to 600 when on drive or reverse.

I just changed the valve cover gaskets and everything besides the head gasket.
Replaced: timing belt, idler pulley and bolt, tensioner, tensioner bearing, water pump, thermostat, crankshaft bolt, power steering pump, power steering rack, O2 sensors, air fuel ratio sensor, spark plugs, spark plugs wires, radiator, and 1 ignition coil (the center one).

This just started happening after I replaced the power steering rack. I had an issue with the pump not getting a good seal and ps fluid sprayed all over the passenger side of the vehicle after start up. I turned it off, took off the batter and washed it all down with water and soap. I replaced the ps pump immediately.

Then a p0100 and p0110 started showing, I'm wondering if I had fried something with the water. I didn't get this code until after all the work and there is no CEL. I followed the fsm of troubleshooting and everything tested good. The voltage at maf and the terminal vg of the ecm connector was all within the specs, there's continuity on all the grounds. So it says to replace ecu but Im looking for a manual to test that before i just replace it.

I don't know if that's all related to the weird idle I am having. I've seen some say burping the cooling system and I've done that a a few times already and it didn't change. I also noticed that after disconnecting the battery for 10minutes and starting it back in again remedies the issue just for that startup. No weird idle on the first start. So it really looks like I'm leaning towards the ECU but I want to explore all possibilities.

Double check the wiring harness for the MAF as far back as you can follow it. If there's any damage inspect the wiring. I would recommend trying another MAF before the ECU, since our MAF's are known to cause issues. You could try cleaning it as well with MAF sensor cleaner from the parts store or order this guy for testing to see if it helps:https://www.amazon.com/MOSTPLUS-Dir...pID=31nG4evZB8L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch. I don't recommend it running it long term but will at least rule out the MAF completely before you go searching for a new ECU.

P.S. it's rarely ever the ECU.

 

[octanejunkie]

Don't clean your MAF with throttle body cleaner, that might be your problem :embarassed:

 

[gamefreakgc]

Don't clean your MAF with throttle body cleaner, that might be your problem :embarassed:

It's pretty much the same stuff. I use brake cleaner if I don't have any of the MAF sensor stuff on hand. Basically you just want to use something that evaporates quickly and leaves no residue.