Help with ordering AC Compressor/Install

rockyMTNvagabond

rockyMTNvagabond

New member
I am looking to replace my AC Compressor. I have a bad clutch and after searching other threads have decided just to go ahead and replace the entire compressor due to the shaft being out of spec for others that have just replaced the clutch. The truck is approaching 210k so i figured its probably better to just replace it all together. I was going to go ahead and order this one off of amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Repa...-3&keywords=1999+toyota+4runner+ac+compressor

Any feedback on this particular kit? I am consider doing a write up up as there is not one currently on T4R unless someone knows of a write up that exists somewhere else. Any other feedback is appreciated before i dive into this project.
 
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Thanks for the responses. I might as well replace the dryer as well while im at it. If the factory installed compressor was Denso and lasted this long might as well go with the same thing. I guess i need to get an O-ring kit as well? The thing i liked about the amazon one was that it looked like it had everything i would need in the box. I guess worst case scenario i could get o-rings from the dealer.
 
rockyMTNvagabond said:
Thanks for the responses. I might as well replace the dryer as well while im at it. If the factory installed compressor was Denso and lasted this long might as well go with the same thing. I guess i need to get an O-ring kit as well? The thing i liked about the amazon one was that it looked like it had everything i would need in the box. I guess worst case scenario i could get o-rings from the dealer.
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I did a complete rebuild on my system and you can view the info (including vendors and pricing) here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-replacement-2000-toyota-4runner-limited.html

I bought the majority of my parts on Amazon.com. Most Denso parts come with the o-rings in the package. (I bought separate o-rings in a packet but did not need them) Be sure when you take your system apart that you clean the aluminum lines. There is a cleaner at AdvanceAuto that you can spray down the pipes. It evaporates quickly and cleans all the oil and crap out of the lines. I also took out my evaporator core (easier than you think) I washed out the core case (in the dishwasher of all things), replaced the core and the expansion valve.

The way I figure it, I got some 14 years out of the original Denso AC system and for for just about $600+/-, I rebuilt my entire system with new parts. Took it to a friend who had a SnapOn Auto AC machine and he filled the system to the factory specs. Good luck and I am happy to help with any questions. I have a spreadsheet of all the parts, part numbers, costs (at the time I did it) and a bunch of other stuff! My system blows at 35-40 degrees (at the vents) in 110+ degree Alabama summers on the coldest setting.
 
As BamaDrewski suggested add the expansion valve. Next to the compressor its the hardest working part, its old replace it with oem. Vacuum Really well. Luck. :cowboy:
 
rockyMTNvagabond said:
o-ring kit was on rock auto. Just ordered everything denso compressor and air dryer.

Thanks again
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You might already know this but do not open up (by removing the plastic stopper) on the drier until RIGHT BEFORE you recharge the system. The drier will absorb tons of moisture and transfer it to your system (not a good thing) if you open it up. I took the tools I needed right before the recharge and hooked it up just before we put the fill machine on it. Just a suggestion.
 
BamaDrewski said:
You might already know this but do not open up (by removing the plastic stopper) on the drier until RIGHT BEFORE you recharge the system. The drier will absorb tons of moisture and transfer it to your system (not a good thing) if you open it up. I took the tools I needed right before the recharge and hooked it up just before we put the fill machine on it. Just a suggestion.
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yup, once you're ready to vacuum is when you hook up the dryer... and CHECK the system for leaks. IMO, if it can hold vacuum for 15min it's good.

also know the AC compressor 'should' have oil in it, DONT dump it out. it is safe to hook up the compressor before hand.


EDIT: actually holding vacuum can read false if the equipment is faulty... fill it and check 30min after running.
 
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SnowLizard said:
yup, once you're ready to vacuum is when you hook up the dryer... and CHECK the system for leaks. IMO, if it can hold vacuum for 15min it's good.

also know the AC compressor 'should' have oil in it, DONT dump it out. it is safe to hook up the compressor before hand.


EDIT: actually holding vacuum can read false if the equipment is faulty... fill it and check 30min after running.
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The only reason to dump it out is to measure it so you know how much to deduct from the amount you will add elsewhere to get to full system oil charge, since all the other parts are dry. Once measured dump it back in. It should have 8 oz. in it. If they tell you how much is in there, then don't bother. If a shop is going to evacuate and recharge, don't bother, they will deal with that.

I replaced the compressor and condenser (along with receiver drier, expansion valve and all O-rings forward of the firewall) on my son's '99 BMW e36 vert. Surprisingly, the BMW also uses a Denso 10p compressor, just like the 4Runner. The other components are German.

I used this excellent DIY that is 85% applicable to the 4Runner and shows you how to evacuate and charge yourself.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1659043-A-C-Compressor-Replacement-DIY

A/C systems are pretty much the same. I bought a HarborFreight gauge set and vacuum pump on sale. They pretty much paid for themselves on the first job, and they have done a few since.

Kiddo just finished his third summer on the rebuilt system, so I must have done something right. There is a lot of FUD around about how you need the $3000 machine the shops have. Sure, it's nice, fast and accurate, but A/c systems predate computerized A/C machines by many years and the old way still works.
 
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I was going to take the truck to a shop and get the current refrigerant recovered out of the system. I was then going to install the compressor over the weekend. The plan is going back to the shop to get it professionally charged/filled. I am ok with spending some money on that piece of it. I just figured i could cut a few hundred dollars of labor out by doing the install of the compressor and dryer myself.

The AC currently works well. I am only doing this because i have a very annoying "helicopter" tapping noise at idle that is getting worse every week. I already replaced the idler pulley and that did not solve it.

"As BamaDrewski suggested add the expansion valve. Next to the compressor its the hardest working part, its old replace it with oem. Vacuum Really well. Luck."

Being that everything is working fine do i need to bother with the expansion valve? How difficult is that piece of it to replace? The part is cheap so i am willing to buy it if necessary.

This is my first time working on the AC so please excuse the barrage of questions. I just want to make sure i do this right the first time.
 
rockyMTNvagabond said:
I was going to take the truck to a shop and get the current refrigerant recovered out of the system. I was then going to install the compressor over the weekend. The plan is going back to the shop to get it professionally charged/filled. I am ok with spending some money on that piece of it. I just figured i could cut a few hundred dollars of labor out by doing the install of the compressor and dryer myself.

The AC currently works well. I am only doing this because i have a very annoying "helicopter" tapping noise at idle that is getting worse every week. I already replaced the idler pulley and that did not solve it.

"As BamaDrewski suggested add the expansion valve. Next to the compressor its the hardest working part, its old replace it with oem. Vacuum Really well. Luck."

This is my first time working on the AC so please excuse the barrage of questions. I just want to make sure i do this right the first time.
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Vagabond: The expansion valve is easy to replace. You do have to take the evaporator case and core out of the truck, open the case up and the expansion valve is attached to the evaporator. (Take a look at my DIY AC post for instructions on how to get the case and core out)

I would recommend this for a couple of reasons. First, you will be working on your system anyways and this will only add about 1 hour to the work. Secondly, over the years, the case that holds the evaporator core gets filled with dirt, debris and mold. When you get it open, you will see what I mean. If your evaporator looks good, just clean it up a bit and reinstall with the new expansion valve. Finally, this kind of "preventative maintenance" should gives you many more years of a well functioning system.

I understand the concern about having never worked on an AC system but it was the same for me. I did a few weeks of research and tackled it. I put in an entirely new system for under $600. It probably would have cost me a few grand at a shop. IF you have any questions, I am happy to help - just send me a PM.

Being that everything is working fine do i need to bother with the expansion valve? How difficult is that piece of it to replace? The part is cheap so i am willing to buy it if necessary.
 
This is my main project in the spring. Haven't had A/C in several years, but I'm not looking to spend what it will cost to fix at a dealer when it's not essential. Let us know how it goes!
 
I have rounded up all the parts that i am going to need to get this done. The last question that i have is about the expansion valve. I purchased a Murray brand from a nearby auto parts store but am thinking I should go with Denso? I think i already know the answer to this one but does not seem like there is much to the part. Do you guys recommend that i get a Denso here as well?
 
rockyMTNvagabond said:
I have rounded up all the parts that i am going to need to get this done. The last question that i have is about the expansion valve. I purchased a Murray brand from a nearby auto parts store but am thinking I should go with Denso? I think i already know the answer to this one but does not seem like there is much to the part. Do you guys recommend that i get a Denso here as well?
Click to expand...


Having gone through this and getting 15+ years out of the original Denso parts, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND using Denso parts. I have learned the expensive lesson of using non-Denso parts and it has cost me lots of time and $$$$$. They sell the Denso expansion valve on Amazon.
 
the worse that can happen is it fails and you replace it... the best thing that can happen is it just works... for a long time.

I say make sure it 'fits' then go for it.
 
SnowLizard said:
the worse that can happen is it fails and you replace it... the best thing that can happen is it just works... for a long time.

I say make sure it 'fits' then go for it.
Click to expand...


You can always replace the part if it defective but then again, why do the work twice? Denso is a proven, long-lasting, designed-for-our-truck part. Also, I priced the Murray expansion valve when I did mine and the Denso was actually LESS EXPENSIVE on Amazon.....
 
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