Hi, I just snagged a 3rd Gen T4R and I have some questions

Crackership

New member
Hi all,

I've had a 2nd gen T4R for nearly 10 years and have loved it but I just rolled the dice on a 1996 Limited with E-Locker I found for a song. Like, it was CHEAP.

It runs, but has a misfire on cyl2. I pulled the plug and it doesn't look like it's firing at all, so I'm figuring to throw a coil on it. Any suggestions or ones to avoid?

It also has some "mods", most of which involve butt connectors, electrical tape and zip ties. Now, like all good 2nd gen owners, I have a resistor taped into the EGR plug to keep the CEL from going off after the EGR valve crumbled in my hand one day, so I know not all "tape and zip ties" mods are totally janky, but being new to the 3rd gen, I don't know what's been done for a reason and what's just dumb. Hopefully you guys can tell me if there's any reason for any of these things before I go trying to figure out how to fix them.

First up is this guy, spliced into the diagnostic plug harness.
IMG-20200529-200312-2.jpg


Second is this thingy zip-tied to the MAF harness
IMG-20200529-201548.jpg


And finally, this box.. which I assume is a charcoal canister? Buzzes for a while after I shut the truck off.
IMG-20200529-200330.jpg


Any ideas?

I really appreciate any help!

TIA
-Dave
 
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Hi all,

I've had a 2nd gen T4R for nearly 10 years and have loved it but I just rolled the dice on a 1996 Limited with E-Locker I found for a song. Like, it was CHEAP.

It runs, but has a misfire on cyl2. I pulled the plug and it doesn't look like it's firing at all, so I'm figuring to throw a coil on it. Any suggestions or ones to avoid?

It also has some "mods", most of which involve butt connectors, electrical tape and zip ties. Now, like all good 2nd gen owners, I have a resistor taped into the EGR plug to keep the CEL from going off after the EGR valve crumbled in my hand one day, so I know not all "tape and zip ties" mods are totally janky, but being new to the 3rd gen, I don't know what's been done for a reason and what's just dumb. Hopefully you guys can tell me if there's any reason for any of these things before I go trying to figure out how to fix them.

First up is this guy, spliced into the diagnostic plug harness.
IMG-20200529-200312-2.jpg


Second is this thingy zip-tied to the MAF harness
IMG-20200529-201548.jpg


And finally, this box.. which I assume is a charcoal canister? Buzzes for a while after I shut the truck off.
IMG-20200529-200330.jpg


Any ideas?

I really appreciate any help!

TIA
-Dave
1st id check compression on #2 cyl.
 
Alright, so I chased those wires and it led me to a janky alarm install. So I pulled all of that out.

Also replaced the coil and the misfire is gone. Hooray!

It does still idle very rough though. It's worse when in gear and when warmed up. From reading this forum, that sounds like the IAC valve needs a good cleaning, you all agree? It's not throwing any codes.
 
Yes I would remove the IAC and do a good and careful cleaning. Careful cause of the electric motor in the IAC.
I would clean the throttle body too while I'm at it.
 
The charcoal canister buzzing is how my '96 talks to me and tries to get me to take it for a drive, like a puppy wanting to go on a walk :) I've had it sitting for multiple months and it will keep doing it.
 
The charcoal canister buzzing is how my '96 talks to me and tries to get me to take it for a drive, like a puppy wanting to go on a walk :) I've had it sitting for multiple months and it will keep doing it.
Yup, the early charcoal canisters can make a buzzing / resonant sound. There is a TSB on it where they add a small chamber to the front most hose out the top to stop it. Not a problem, just annoying. Later charcoal canisters have at built in to the hose outlet (an extra chamber).

-Charlie
 
Alright, so I chased those wires and it led me to a janky alarm install. So I pulled all of that out.

Also replaced the coil and the misfire is gone. Hooray!

It does still idle very rough though. It's worse when in gear and when warmed up. From reading this forum, that sounds like the IAC valve needs a good cleaning, you all agree? It's not throwing any codes.

If cleaning doesn't do it, I'd just replace the IAC Valve. I had a CEL on and off for a while, traced it to that. When cleaning didn't do it, I just replaced the valve. Haven't had a problem since. Just don't strip the 4 screws getting it off, they can be a pain. Use one of those Japanese industrial screw drivers.
 

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