Hidden Winch Mount Install

[TE!]

My Pelfreybilt HWM should be arriving any day now... I have searched far and wide to see how people are compensating for the gap between the bumper and valance cover on a Trail or Pro. I do not want it to look like it is squeezing in the bumper/ valance when you tighten down the fairlead.

Any input from those who have installed the Pelfreybilt of Undercover HWM?

 

[LawnDart]

My Pelfreybilt HWM should be arriving any day now... I have searched far and wide to see how people are compensating for the gap between the bumper and valance cover on a Trail or Pro. I do not want it to look like it is squeezing in the bumper/ valance when you tighten down the fairlead.

Any input from those who have installed the Pelfreybilt of Undercover HWM?

There's no issue with the installation. It will not cause the bumper to be pushed in at all.

 

[Jetboy]

I have not installed one of those brands, however I have custom built my own that is somewhat similar.

I do not know how those manufacturers do this.

On my bumper I used two approximately 1" pieces of about 1.25" OD .25 wall thickness steel tube to make what are effectively very thick washers or spacers to fill that gap and the fairlead bolts through those to the front of the mount. You can weld them on or probably get away with just tightening them down. If you crank down 1/2" bolts on each side, they won't go anywhere. You could also cut a small segment of a 1-1.5" or so solid steel rod and then drill a center hole. Probably other options as well. That's just what I did.

It works well. I've used the winch quite a bit without issue.

 

[TE!]

There's no issue with the installation. It will not cause the bumper to be pushed in at all.

Awesome! Thank you for your input!!

 

[TE!]

I have not installed one of those brands, however I have custom built my own that is somewhat similar.

I do not know how those manufacturers do this.

On my bumper I used two approximately 1" pieces of about 1.25" OD .25 wall thickness steel tube to make what are effectively very thick washers or spacers to fill that gap and the fairlead bolts through those to the front of the mount. You can weld them on or probably get away with just tightening them down. If you crank down 1/2" bolts on each side, they won't go anywhere. You could also cut a small segment of a 1-1.5" or so solid steel rod and then drill a center hole. Probably other options as well. That's just what I did.

It works well. I've used the winch quite a bit without issue.

This is the route I was thinking about going if I had issues with it... Lawndart had the same Pelfreybilt HWM installed and stated no issues with it squeezing in the valance. I will install it as is and see how it goes from there. Your thread was about the only one I could find that had any sort of info or reference to it. Thanks again for your input!

 

[cutty01]

Please post a write-up and pictures after your install. Or at least any tips and tricks.

What winch are you going to mount with it?

 

[TE!]

Please post a write-up and pictures after your install. Or at least any tips and tricks.

What winch are you going to mount with it?

I will try and do a complete write up once I finish the install. I am installing the Warn Zeon Platinum 10-S. That way it helps others with the install. Not much info out there on installing any of the HWM on 14+ Trail/ Pros.

 

[Jetboy]

It's possible you may run into clearance issues with that winch. I have a Superwinch tigershark and it had very tight clearance with the A/C hard line that passes near that location. You should be able to slightly bend the brackets to make a bit of room, but just something to be aware that you'll likely run into with a winch that has that type of bracketry on top.

 

[Bikemedic]

I had no problem with my instal. The hardest part was adjusting the movable tray the winch sits on to the correct point to meet the bumper valance. This was easy if you leave the top radiator plastic cover off re-install the front plascit bumper cover (valance) and leave the tray loose. You then can reach in and push it up as far as you need and then tighten it down after removing the front valance again.

I moved the control box for the winch to the under the hood behind the battery. I needed to purchase longer cables to do so, but I think it was worth the extra $$$. I ran my cables through a pice of old garden hose up to the under hood location to give it a little more protection from any possible sharp points of contract....

 

[LawnDart]

It's possible you may run into clearance issues with that winch. I have a Superwinch tigershark and it had very tight clearance with the A/C hard line that passes near that location. You should be able to slightly bend the brackets to make a bit of room, but just something to be aware that you'll likely run into with a winch that has that type of bracketry on top.

It'll fit just fine. The 8 and 10 zeons are the exact same size. Only their gearing has changed. And the 8 fits fine. You do have to remove the control pack off the bridge to make it fit but that's par for the course anyways.

 

[TE!]

It'll fit just fine. The 8 and 10 zeons are the exact same size. Only their gearing has changed. And the 8 fits fine. You do have to remove the control pack off the bridge to make it fit but that's par for the course anyways.

I actually have the short and long relocation kits from Warn on hand. Where did you relocate your control pack?

I received the mount today and see it has a sliding piece for the fairlead. Did you trim a bigger hole in the inner bumper than you did in the valance if that makes sense? That way it sits flush with the valance on the inside or is it pressed against the actual bumper on yours?

 

[TE!]

I had no problem with my instal. The hardest part was adjusting the movable tray the winch sits on to the correct point to meet the bumper valance. This was easy if you leave the top radiator plastic cover off re-install the front plascit bumper cover (valance) and leave the tray loose. You then can reach in and push it up as far as you need and then tighten it down after removing the front valance again.

I moved the control box for the winch to the under the hood behind the battery. I needed to purchase longer cables to do so, but I think it was worth the extra $$$. I ran my cables through a pice of old garden hose up to the under hood location to give it a little more protection from any possible sharp points of contract....

I am also in Charlotte as well (dilworth area). Did you cut a bigger hole in the inner bumper than you did with the valance? Is that plate pushed up against your bumper or the valance? Just trying to get the best fit possible.

 

[LawnDart]

I actually have the short and long relocation kits from Warn on hand. Where did you relocate your control pack?

I received the mount today and see it has a sliding piece for the fairlead. Did you trim a bigger hole in the inner bumper than you did in the valance if that makes sense? That way it sits flush with the valance on the inside or is it pressed against the actual bumper on yours?

You're overthinking it. All you need to do is trim the hole for the fairlead to be slightly larger than the fairlead itself so that the plastic has no way of rubbing on the rope.

Seriously it will not cause the bumper to pull in.

 

[Jetboy]

That was what I was looking at. I left the solenoid box on the winch in my install and remote mounted the plug only to a new electronic control box that houses the wireless module, master on/off switch, and wired remote plug in to the fender on the driver's side near the hood hinge. I did it that way to keep the solenoid set on bus bars directly at the motor for efficiency reasons. But it's location is different from the ZEON.

The wireless clutch of the zeon will be really nice to have in this situation.

 

[LawnDart]

I actually have the short and long relocation kits from Warn on hand. Where did you relocate your control pack?

I received the mount today and see it has a sliding piece for the fairlead. Did you trim a bigger hole in the inner bumper than you did in the valance if that makes sense? That way it sits flush with the valance on the inside or is it pressed against the actual bumper on yours?

I relocated the control pack to the driver side rear of the engine compartment, and use their wireless kit.

 

[Bikemedic]

I am also in Charlotte as well (dilworth area). Did you cut a bigger hole in the inner bumper than you did with the valance? Is that plate pushed up against your bumper or the valance? Just trying to get the best fit possible.

No just one size. If you want to take a look at my instal I work on Scott ave near CMC main.....