High Idle Switch

Daneums

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Has any body done this? Apparently you can put a resistor on a switch on the ect sensor to trick it in to thinking the engine is cooler and raise the idle to provide better charging and ac at idle. I'm not sure how often i would use it, but it is intriguing to me. I haven't been able to find much. I found a non-descriptive thread on yotatech and an unhelpful youtube video of a 3.4 swapped 2nd gen.
Links:
High idle switch anyone ? - YotaTech Forums
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kz0GSvWUoLw&spfreload=10

Thoughts?
Pros?
Cons?
 
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Never heard of this but I do occasionally give my engine a good rev to spike that AC temp down a little. I just don't know if purposely over-revving the engine at idle is good in the long term? I suppose it wouldn't hurt anything. I guess the only thing it might do is slightly engage the drivetrain and wear on the transmission a little?
 
I did a little more reading. Someone was saying increased load without airflow could decrease alternator life, but I don't think this is something I would use all the time.
 
Would be awesome on the 5 speed. I love how it idles high when cold, put it in 1st, let go of the clutch and it just drives. I'd love to control the idle speed somehow.
 
Have started researching it myself. Only got as far as a few links, one of which you've already posted. Trying to think of all the things that raise idle like a/c and p/s and the coolant temp sensor and ???. Looks like the first two don't quite buck it up enough in other people's experiences.

ECT Mod

High Idle Kit? - Expedition Portal

Pros:
Idle up could make some obstacles a little easier to deal with when it comes to the 3-pedal dance.
Should help with the higher-need things, the winch and the oba compressor.

Cons:
Not sure if any if done right? All mods could fail, but since it's spliced in it could be spliced out too, if needed.
 
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Seems to me like a manual throttle control would be easier and cheap. Of course it won't work with a fly by wire throttle as easily. My FJ62 has a (factory installed) dash mounted pull cable that pulls directly on the gas pedal. I use it while winching, or jumpstarting a really dead player.

Push Pull Throttle Cable Control

:hat:
 
Seems to me like a manual throttle control would be easier and cheap. Of course it won't work with a fly by wire throttle as easily. My FJ62 has a (factory installed) dash mounted pull cable that pulls directly on the gas pedal. I use it while winching, or jumpstarting a really dead player.

Push Pull Throttle Cable Control

:hat:
Something like this?:
Using a cable routed through the same bracket as the cruise control (96) to where there is a fin the cable could be hooked to. Would keep it from getting tangled with the throttle cable...hmmmm....
(pic from another project- cruise control bracket, cable are loose, but it shows the bits I'm referring to)
P5159550_zpskgcrznbs.jpg~original


I think I still like the idea of messing with the coolant temp sensor and a switch, but this certainly bears some looking into as well.
 
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Thinking on this cable idea further....hardest thing might be to keep the cable such as the cruise control cable from unseating from the actuator when you override with the throttle cable...would have to look into how much slack happens when you raise the rpm for your high idle.

Then again, what happens to the cruise cable when you hit the throttle anyway? It doesn't pop out then...

Some out-loud thinking...needs some actual on-hands tinkering for answers...

Edit:
Went and looked. The middle actuator (sorry, dunno the actual term for parts that move the butterfly) works separate from the cruise and throttle cables (96) so the new throttle wire could theoretically be used with it, using the cruise control cable bracket as a base, or fabbing a different bracket. It has to be pulled overhand from the right side. If you use the provided holes (actually in the pic, the actuator in front of the cruise actuator) you wouldn't be able to pull it much, but it shouldn't need much anyway. It appears to be a feasible idea [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]. May have to give that one some actual ear steam.
 
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Routing a cable through the firewall is not something I want to have to do.
I would rather just add a potentiometer on a switch.
If I attempt this, I would set it at ~1300 rpm. I read somewhere that the temp at that point was about 130 and that was the lowest you could go and stay in closed loop.
 
I know this is an old thread. Sorry.
I was looking to do this to my 5th Gen.


Anyway, on my Land Rover, there is a piece you can turn circled in red.
Clockwise to the back = higher idle, counterclockwise to front = lower idle.

7UGsoeB.jpg
 

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