Hoppy’s build thread - 2022 ORP

hoppyjr

Member
Hi all….

I’ve wanted a 4Runner for years, and a Land Cruiser since the early 80’s, but never was able to make it happen until about a month ago. I got very lucky and found a used 2022 TRD Off-Road Premium sitting on a non-Toyota dealer lot and she only had 637 miles!

I started this thread to share the mods I’ve done and will be doing in the coming months. I posted in the “what did you do today” thread a couple times, but this makes more sense to consolidate my mods in one place. I’ll start with a cell phone mount, which I realize is pretty basic, and then move to the other stuff I’ve done. Feel free to ask any questions and I’m glad to help any way I can.

Finally, thanks for having this forum and for all the great info I’ve been able to learn from the group. This is an excellent resource.

Hoppy



I like the TRD Pro model, except for the roof rack where I prefer the standard black rails. The other Pro features of upgraded stereo and auto climate control don’t excite me much, and I like the reviews on KDSS, so a TRD Off Road Premium seemed like the ideal starting point for a build.

The changes I’ve made result in the same look at a TRD Pro, with upgrades to meet and/or exceed the TRD Pro capabilities.




My starting point was this:

2022 TRD Off Road Premium.
The original owner spec’d it well, then had the dealer add the tires & lift. When I picked it up, she was equipped with the following factory options:

- KDSS
- Moonroof
- Off Road / 360 camera
- Toyota Dash Cam
- Trail running boards
- the usual mats, first aid kit, etc
- 275/70 K02’s on TRD wheels
- dealer installed Revtek 432 lift

Then I got to work….

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This morning I installed a very sturdy mount for my cell phone. The original plan was for one of those dash mounts that have several attachment points, but I really didn’t need that, wanted to preserve my retro-digital clock, and prefer the cleaner dash look.

I was inspired by this post, but modified it for my needs. 5th Gen 4Runner DIY Phone Mount - DIY iPhone Phone Mount

Total cost about $100 included the RAM mounts components, the Course Motorsports Magsafe mount, and a 6’ (when fully extended) coiled USB power cord, which is actually compatible with Apple CarPlay (many are not).

I removed the radio bezel, drilled a single hole, then fed the t-bolt from the RAM base from the inside out. Screwed on the base with its included rubber washer, then added the short arm, ball adapter, and Magsafe mount. It took about 30 minutes to do.

The result sits at a perfect viewing level, with good adjustability as needed. I can use FaceID to unlock without issue. It’s low profile, looks great, and doesn’t shake the phone or cause any issues. I’m happy with the result.


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Here are the parts I used:

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I tend to value function over form, but I like gadgets too. Lighting is usually my first mod on a new car and this was no exception. When installing the TRD Pro OEM grille I went ahead and added the raptor lights.

The lighting upgrades include:

* VLED Triton Extreme rear turn signals & backup lights - I used the Triton Switchback Extreme amber/white 5K model in the turn signal position and the Triton 921 5K white in the regular backup light socket. With some of the VLEDS (available) adapters, I was able to make the rear turn signals do double duty as supplementary backup lights. They grab the signal from the reverse circuit and activate the white LEDs of the switchback, giving four really bright backup lights. Another nice benefit is the bulbs are all clean when off, eliminating that “egg yolk” look inside the housing when off. All plug & play with no cutting or splicing.

* VLED Triton Extreme front turn signals & front side marker lights - the VLED Extreme product is bright and I’ve had excellent luck with their stuff for many years. Customer service is stellar too. As with the rear, these are clear when off and eliminate the “egg yolk” look in the housing.

* VLED 9005 Micro Extreme installed in former DRL location as auxiliary high beams - I didn’t like the halogen DRL, so those had to go. I picked up a 9005 auxiliary light harness, but only to use the plugs and wire. I wired this to one of the inputs on the SwitchPro controller. The result is an excellent beam, giving more fill to the high beams. For some, this may be all you need for added forward lighting. Mine are wired to the SwitchPro and tied to the high beam circuit for easy dimming. You could simply use the aftermarket 9005 harness and dash mounted switch and call it done.

* Yota LED sequential smoked mirror turn signals and led puddle lights. Got rid of the chrome.

* YotaLED grille “Raptor” lights - these are extremely high quality and the metal brackets fit well in the grille openings. I’ve seen the plastic ones on other rigs, but these are next level good. They are much brighter than I expected. Wired to the SwitchPro.

* Brite Box Anytime fog light controller - I went with the “Anytime” version, to have more control over them. They make a more basic box that simply allows the fogs to remain on with high beams. The Anytime box is switchable. I wired the power wires to my SwitchPro, labeling them “DRL”, then ran the included switch (Toyota style dash plug) to a blank on left side of dash. The result: I can run fogs as DRL and they switch off with ignition. I can leave them on with parking, low, and high beams, or simply turn them off with the press of a button. It turned out very well.

* KC Slimlight LED lights on front bumper - inspired by Noah @ Stage 3 Motorsports, I love the look and wanted two round lights on the bumper. These are very bright and the way mine are positioned they serve as sort of a driving-ditch light. A piece of metal behind the plastic bumper gives them enough support. Wired to the SwitchPro and only triggered with high beams, for easy dimming when needed.

* SwitchPros 9100 controller with SDHQ dash panel mount - it looks and works great. Not much more can be said. Love it.

* Meso Customs front dual-color dome lights - white/red at the push of a button. Meso quality. Easy install. Do it.

* Meso Customs rear dual-color dome light. - these are out of stock everywhere, but the Gen 3 Tacoma dome light is the same fit, just black instead of silver. It works for me. Done.


** upcoming:

* the new Diode Dynamics C1R pod kit. This mounts to rear bumper and plugs in line behind the trailer hitch wiring. Plug & play and provides tail, brake, and reverse lights in a bright LED pod that’s about 2” square. These won’t be switched as the plug & play harness does it all.

* Ditch lights. I’m seriously considering the Morimoto HXB “combo” beam. After watching actual user videos and some testing from Headlight Revolution, I’m convinced this is a nice add. We’ll see. There is an open spot on the SwitchPro, so it’s likely.


I’ll post more photos when I get a chance.

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And here is the low beam, high beam, and high beam with supplemental high beam respectively.

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Update 4/21/24 - I actually did this a few weeks back, but forgot to update the thread. Finally sourced and installed the Meso Customs rear hatch lights, completing the Meso interior light package. In addition, Meso provided their black trim ring to go with their red start button.

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Next up was comms.

Wilson Drive Reach booster, their most powerful model. Mounted under the passenger seat, hardwired to the SwitchPro, and an NMO stubby antenna mounted in the rear roof. I’m getting a solid boost and noticeable improvement. Definitely worth it to me.

Midland MTX575 GMRS radio, their newest 50w model. Mounted under drivers seat and powered by SwitchPro. A Midland stubby antenna mounted in rear roof gets a solid signal and great performance. I use an Ethernet cable extension cord to relocate the mic plug in to the lower right of steering wheel, using an existing blank. This model radio has all controls on the mic, so it’s a nice stealth install. I mounted the mic to a Proclip console mount, using a Proclip wedge to angle it for max viewing. A Magnetic Mic mount screws to that to make placement simple.

Win.

More pics to follow.

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Cosmetics:

* Meso Customs interior door handle covers

* TRD Pro Grille and under bumper valances. All OEM stuff.

* The Viper Cut was done by Brad @ NW Rigs. He does great work and is a really nice guy. The cut also eliminated the slight rub that existed in reverse.

* Debadged. Because that’s how I do it.

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Protection.

* with the Viper Cut done, my windshield washer tank was showing. The washer tank skid plate covers the tank and offers protection. Southern Style Off-road makes good stuff.

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* Catalytic Converter protection - Went with Millercat, but it vibrated in reverse and required modification. I’m not pleased with the product for $400 (stainless steel version) so I’d go elsewhere next time.
 
A couple small modifications this weekend:

- Mounting the KC spot lights on the bumper was a mixed bag; I liked how they looked in that location, but their effectiveness was compromised. The angle of the bumper and type of mount on the lights made it so they were functioning as more of a super high power ditch light, but I was after a more centered spot light to shine down the highway.

The Caliraised low profile ditch light brackets were the solution. I relocated the KC Slimlights to the A-Pillar area and now they provide the down-the-road distance I was after, while still illuminating the sides of the road ahead.

This makes me happy, for now. The plan may change down the road. A couple basic black plastic trim rivets cover the two holes in the bumper, but there will likely be some other lights using those holes later.

Pics from today.

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that's quite a few mods in a short period of time, congrats on your successful pursuit and capture of your 5th gen.
 
Next up was comms.

Wilson Drive Reach booster, their most powerful model. Mounted under the passenger seat, hardwired to the SwitchPro, and an NMO stubby antenna mounted in the rear roof. I’m getting a solid boost and noticeable improvement. Definitely worth it to me.

Midland MTX575 GMRS radio, their newest 50w model. Mounted under drivers seat and powered by SwitchPro. A Midland stubby antenna mounted in rear roof gets a solid signal and great performance. I use an Ethernet cable extension cord to relocate the mic plug in to the lower right of steering wheel, using an existing blank. This model radio has all controls on the mic, so it’s a nice stealth install. I mounted the mic to a Proclip console mount, using a Proclip wedge to angle it for max viewing. A Magnetic Mic mount screws to that to make placement simple.

Win.

More pics to follow.

Just curious if you have tested out the gmrs at all? I was looking at one for emergency communication while hunting(car to portable) and was wondering how the range is, especially with hills.
 
3/2 Revtek lift removed, Bilstein 6112/5100 installed. Excellent work by Stanton Automotive in Seattle.

Vince Stanton is good people! You should get the DR.KDSS switch next. Takes maybe 30 minutes to install and is the best mod available for KDSS trucks.
 
Just curious if you have tested out the gmrs at all? I was looking at one for emergency communication while hunting(car to portable) and was wondering how the range is, especially with hills.


Yes, I’ve done some testing and I’m pretty pleased. I’m at the base of the Cascade mountains in western Washington. I’m fortunate that there is a great repeater that I can easily hit, and using it I’m getting 60 miles or so.

I chose this particular Midland mobile because it’s 50 watts. The external antenna is also a big plus.

There are lots of handheld options on the market, but I picked up a few Baofeng UV-9G with a Nagoya 771g antenna.

For comms on the trail, either or both of those should be more than sufficient.
 
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We installed a pair of Morimoto 4Banger pillar lights, in their XHB Combo Beam, on the windshield pillars of my sons Jeep.

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They are extremely impressive, so….

The KC Slimlight LED lights came off the Toyota and I installed a pair of the Morimotos on the ditch brackets. I’m actually getting more light from the three TIR emitters on these lights than I did on the larger KC’s.

I tried to grab some beam shots against a wall, but they aren’t ideal as exposure is tough to balance. These still show a noticeable improvement as each set of lights is added.

The plan is to swap out the Toyota Premium LED fog lamps and install a set of Morimoto 4Banger in the HXB wide beam pattern. I’ll report back when done.

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Your dome light is MESO Tacoma. 4Runner dome is gray where Tacoma is black. Did you plan that? It looks contrasting a bit. I wish MESO had Tailgate cargo lights for us until then Arclight is best option.
 
Todays update. I previously mentioned swapping out the KC Slimlight LED lights for Morimoto 4Banger HXB combo beam pods, on Caliraised low profile ditch brackets. Today we swapped the OEM “Premium LED fog lights” for a pair of Morimoto 4Banger HXB, this time in the wide beam pattern. The results are amazing.

Photos do the talking. Taken with iPhone 14 Pro and I do not adjust exposure.

The last two shots include my auxiliary high beams, which are explained in a previous post.

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Here is a garage door comparison of beam: Morimoto 4Banger on drivers side, Toyota Premium LED fog lamp on passenger side.

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Replaced all four bump stops with the upgraded Supersprings progressive bump stops. While these are significantly larger than the stock ones, stock is very hard rubber, whereas these are able to “squish” under load and absorb impact.

Think of it as the difference between falling on your butt versus falling on your butt with some really firm pillows attached. With the firm pillows your butt hits the ground sooner, but they help mitigate the impact.

There are some decent videos on YouTube. First impressions? I like them.

They aren’t cheap, but watch for sales. They are running 15% off, but I snagged mine during a 25% off sale.

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Last weekend’s project was to install the Dr.KDSS module, which allows push button deactivation of the KDSS system.

The KDSS is programmed to activate at 12 mph, allowing for more articulation and thereby more comfort when moving slowly over rougher terrain.

Since there may be times when we want to go a little faster, say on a dirt road, we may still want that increased travel & comfort. The Dr.KDSS module allows this at the push of a button.

Toyota could offer the same, but the liability of someone with no common sense having the system inactive is a lawsuit waiting to happen so they don’t. Since I have common sense, I won’t leave it deactivated on the paved roads. [emoji41]

Hard to show it in photos, but the harness is plug & play under the dash. Mine is connected to my SwitchPros controller.

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Can you provide some details on your NMO roof mounts? I don’t see many brave enough to drill holes in the roof and I want to. My ham antenna mount does not give a ground plane and pretty much sucks. I have the Rago NMO that looks like a ditch mount. I use non ground plane antenna but not good results.
 

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