Hoppy’s build thread - 2022 ORP

[hoppyjr]

Todays update:

We installed the KC Cyclone under hood light kit. I used the same location as Kelly & Trevor from “Adventure Built” did (Ultimate Under Hood Work Light on 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner - KC HiLites Cyclone LED Light - YouTube)

These are great lights and using the same mounting location and push pins, it was very straightforward. I did tuck the wires in through the holes, keeping it cleaner and still had room for the pins.

Mine are wired to a lighted dash switch, located in the lower left switch blank on the dash. They are running off the battery with a 3a fuse, so available without ignition. (the kit comes with a simple weatherproof toggle, designed to be mounted under the hood near the battery).

I absolutely recommend this kit.

Next up, I found the Mob Armor “Mobnetic” mount was having trouble supporting my GMRS microphone. The adhesive disc kept coming off the dash, so the solution was to copy what I did for the cell phone mount, as detailed in a prior post. The only difference is we fabricated a 1” ball mounting plate for the Magnetic Mic brand attachment device. Works like it was factory.

It’s now secure and super handy. I’m happy.

Final thing for today, the OEM Toyota TRD Pro black hood bulge. Done.

*** One item I forgot to mention before: seat comfort…

I’m 6’3” and one of the other reasons I hesitated in buying a Gen5 4Runner was seat comfort. I found a noticeable lack of lower leg support and was concerned about longer drives like that. A bit of internet research took me to many many positive reviews of the Seat Jackers by Desert Does It, out of Nevada.

Bottom line: do this mod. I did on both front seats and it’s truly amazing. The stock drivers tilt function was not enough, but with the Seat Jackers it’s really nice, and I did 5 hours with no issue. My front seat passenger also finds the angle comfortable. I learned of this prior to purchase and I’m glad they worked as well as I hoped.



While I’m sure there will other little things that will be added along the way, this now completes everything I set out to achieve with this build.

Thanks for following along. If I can offer any assistance please PM me, I’ll be glad to help.

Hoppy

 

[TRD PANTHER]

You have done some things that I have been considering. I’m 6’3 also, and have been contemplating the seat jackers. If I decide to switch to a black TRD style skid plate I might go to the CTH one you installed. The under hood lights also. How do you like your KC lights? Are they spot or driving? SAE compliant? Your rig is shaping up, now for the dirt.

 

[hoppyjr]

You have done some things that I have been considering. I’m 6’3 also, and have been contemplating the seat jackers. If I decide to switch to a black TRD style skid plate I might go to the CTH one you installed. The under hood lights also. How do you like your KC lights? Are they spot or driving? SAE compliant? Your rig is shaping up, now for the dirt.

Thanks very much. It’ll get dirty this summer for sure.

The KC Slimlight LED is more of a spot pattern, but is designed to also throw light in front of and around the main beam. For the current mounting location and intended use - to fill in the void straight ahead - they work well. Not sure if SAE compliant, but I’ve never been stopped about lighting; the key is knowing when to use them and being aimed well.

If I were recommending lighting mods, I’d start by losing the DRL and adding supplemental high beams, as that’s a noticeable upgrade that can be used daily. If your rig has LED low & high projectors, you could do as I did. If you have halogen DRL / high beams, VLEDS makes a plug and play kit that gives you dimmed led DRL and superb led high beams.

Thanks,

Hoppy

 

[hoppyjr]

I just realized there were little things I left out of the thread….

* Remote Start :

One Pro feature I did want was remote start. The solution was found on Amazon, with a Start-X plug & play remote start kit. Install was simple, but required some trim & glove box disassembly. Took about an hour and no wires cut or tapped. Three clicks of the remote lock button is all it takes to start or stop the vehicle.

The negative is, like most factory systems, this one turns off when you open the door. I’ve learned to live with this, especially since it was less than $200. In the future I may consider a different system, one that remains on when you enter and has app functionality. I’ve had good luck in the past with Compustar products.

* Organization

Some inexpensive center console and glove box organizers, also from Amazon, make it so everything has its place.

* Carista app

While the 2022 has many customizable features in the settings menu, the Carista all offers added functionality. Some might enjoy the “all windows down” when you hold the remote unlock button. Lots to choose from. I used it to disable the annoying seat belt chime. The seat belt light still comes on, but the sound is gone.

 

[hoppyjr]

In a somewhat disappointing turn of events, the Bluetooth function of my Switch-Pros 9100 module has died.

The phone tech support was excellent, but it seems the module / panel must go back for diagnosis.

I’m not thrilled, but if it’s a one time thing then I’ll live with it.

 

[hoppyjr]

In a somewhat disappointing turn of events, the Bluetooth function of my Switch-Pros 9100 module has died.

The phone tech support was excellent, but it seems the module / panel must go back for diagnosis.

I’m not thrilled, but if it’s a one time thing then I’ll live with it.

Update: absolutely outstanding customer service from SwitchPros!

I had a planned trip to SoCal last week and called SwitchPros to see what they could do. They agreed to stick around the office until I could make it from the airport, so I tossed the switch panel in my luggage and did exactly that.

The fine people at SwitchPros reflashed the firmware in my switch panel and I’m back in business. Works great and I appreciate the great service and accommodation.

I highly recommend the product.

 

[hoppyjr]

 

[hoppyjr]

Latest update: installed the Pedal Commander about three weeks ago. I’m amazed at how well it eliminated the lag and made my 4Runner much more responsive.

A nice bonus is a couple more MPG when driving normally.

I’d do this mod again without reservation.

 

[hoppyjr]

I apparently can’t leave well enough alone…..

Removed the raptor lights. Maybe they’ll find a home with someone else here.

Installed a Rigid Industries SR-Series 20” bar, in their Amber Pro configuration, behind the upper grille. I used SDHQ brackets, designed for the Rigid or Baja Designs bar.

It’s extremely bright. Maybe too bright!

Fortunately, the SwitchPro controller allows it to be run at 100% - 50% - 10% settings. The memory function assures it will turn back on at last used setting, so I plan to run 10% with the parking lights (as an accent) and likely 50% in inclement weather. 100% is there if & when needed.

More photos to follow when I have time.

 

[mrblah]

I apparently can’t leave well enough alone…..

Removed the raptor lights. Maybe they’ll find a home with someone else here.

Installed a Rigid Industries SR-Series 20” bar, in their Amber Pro configuration, behind the upper grille. I used SDHQ brackets, designed for the Rigid or Baja Designs bar.

It’s extremely bright. Maybe too bright!

Fortunately, the SwitchPro controller allows it to be run at 100% - 50% - 10% settings. The memory function assures it will turn back on at last used setting, so I plan to run 10% with the parking lights (as an accent) and likely 50% in inclement weather. 100% is there if & when needed.

More photos to follow when I have time.

i miss my 20 inch light bar in my upper grill, they were great FU lights lol...

 

[///AIRDAM]

i miss my 20 inch light bar in my upper grill, they were great FU lights lol...

In my 2012 i put a dual row Rigid in behind the grille hooked to high beams.
I uninstalled it and just put it in the new one behind the lower bumper insert also on high beams.
It is absolutely so awesome.

The 30" Rigid is so easy to mount in the older 5th gen, pull the grille and you'll see the plastic piece to direct air from the grille into the radiator is the exact same width as the 30" light bar. All i had to do was drill two holes for the bolts in the light bar and tighten down the nuts.
The new 5th gen i mounted it to the aluminum crash bar with standard light bar tabs. It makes high beams reach out farther than your eyes can see, its so nice. We live way out in the country and its nice to be able to see a half mile of road lit up.

 

[hoppyjr]

^ That all sounds great and I’m glad you were able to repurpose the 30” bar into you new rig.

The 20” Amber Pro Rigid is specifically what I wanted up top and it looks to be perfect for my needs. I can’t mount behind the lower grill because I’ve already got spot lamps down there, in addition to the radar cruise sensor thing.

 

[hoppyjr]

I apparently can’t leave well enough alone…..

Removed the raptor lights. Maybe they’ll find a home with someone else here.

Installed a Rigid Industries SR-Series 20” bar, in their Amber Pro configuration, behind the upper grille. I used SDHQ brackets, designed for the Rigid or Baja Designs bar.

It’s extremely bright. Maybe too bright!

Fortunately, the SwitchPro controller allows it to be run at 100% - 50% - 10% settings. The memory function assures it will turn back on at last used setting, so I plan to run 10% with the parking lights (as an accent) and likely 50% in inclement weather. 100% is there if & when needed.

More photos to follow when I have time.

Here are better photos. It’s difficult to capture brightness or throw in photos, but this is the Rigid Amber Pro 20” bar at 50% brightness.

On 50% it is extremely bright and adds much to poor weather driving. On 100% it’s strictly off road only. 10% is ideal for matching the VLED’s Triton Extreme parking lights, so it’s a nice accent.

Overall I’m very pleased with the performance.

50%

10%

 

[hoppyjr]

This week my new heated steering wheel arrived!

I ordered from CarTrimHome and didn’t want the red trim piece or red stitching, so for a small additional charge they made exactly what I wanted. All black with no plastic insert at the top.

I hope to install it in the next couple weeks. For now, here’s how it looks. Really nice quality too.

 

[honda250xtitan]

This week my new heated steering wheel arrived!

I ordered from CarTrimHome and didn’t want the red trim piece or red stitching, so for a small additional charge they made exactly what I wanted. All black with no plastic insert at the top.

I hope to install it in the next couple weeks. For now, here’s how it looks. Really nice quality too.

]

that looks great.

 

[hoppyjr]

Today we installed the CarTrimHome heated steering wheel. Fantastic product!

Follow the instructions and it’s a pretty simple install, taking a couple hours with my friend (who admittedly is a pro).

I moved some switches around to free up a blank for the heated wheel switch: I previously used the blank under the start button for an Ethernet extension, to plug in my Midland MXT575 radio. Now I’ve simply plugged the microphone into the radio under the seat.

Relocated the Redarc brake controller to that spot under the start button, which is ideal since it’s a bit recessed.

Steering wheel switch is on the left side in the switch area. My only minor issue is the backlight on steering wheel switch is the backlight is green, not the blue of the other switches.

Works great. Looks fantastic. Also slightly thicker and better shaped than the stock wheel. It appears the metal frame is a Toyota part.

Overall I’m very pleased.

Next up: replacing my scratched front bumper skin. I have the new, painted part ready, just waiting for warmer weather.

 

[hoppyjr]

The heated wheel was fantastic on this chilly morning.

I also updated the interior lighting post this morning (see post#3).

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Looks great, nice work!

 

[emmantik]

Today we installed the CarTrimHome heated steering wheel. Fantastic product!

Follow the instructions and it’s a pretty simple install, taking a couple hours with my friend (who admittedly is a pro).

I moved some switches around to free up a blank for the heated wheel switch: I previously used the blank under the start button for an Ethernet extension, to plug in my Midland MXT575 radio. Now I’ve simply plugged the microphone into the radio under the seat.

Relocated the Redarc brake controller to that spot under the start button, which is ideal since it’s a bit recessed.

Steering wheel switch is on the left side in the switch area. My only minor issue is the backlight on steering wheel switch is the backlight is green, not the blue of the other switches.

Works great. Looks fantastic. Also slightly thicker and better shaped than the stock wheel. It appears the metal frame is a Toyota part.

Overall I’m very pleased.

Next up: replacing my scratched front bumper skin. I have the new, painted part ready, just waiting for warmer weather.

Did any lights come on on your dash after install? When I removed my steering wheel I think a did something to my steering angle sensor and had to replace it. Wondering if you came across the same thing or not. Thanks!

 

[hoppyjr]

Did any lights come on on your dash after install? When I removed my steering wheel I think a did something to my steering angle sensor and had to replace it. Wondering if you came across the same thing or not. Thanks!

I apologize for the late reply, I didn’t get a notification of the reply.

No, I didn’t have any issues with error codes or lights coming on.

I hope yours is sorted now and working well. It’s a great upgrade.