How much does your 3rd gen weigh?

[Roc Doc]

Another question. How much does it affect in off roading situations

"Weight is the enemy of performance." - ANY engineer.

This one was over 4000 and that was with dual cases, tube winch bumper {Warn 9500 with syn rope}, and an all steel flatbed. If I had known then what I know now, I could have knocked 300 or more lbs off it in the build.

 

[Roc Doc]

And this one was near 6000lbs. Plate bumpers, tube rock sliders, 12k winch with steel rope, 3-link front with coilovers, 35's, etc.. There wasn't much room to shave weight on the FZJ80, what it really needed was an LS1.

 

[Roc Doc]

Doesnt really make a difference. it actually helps if a lot of the weight is down low, because it lowers the center of gravity. skids and sliders probably lower the CoG a bit.

All that is sprung weight, which is even harder to control. That's why competitive cone dodgers put water in the tires not lead weights on the bottom of the frame.

 

[Roc Doc]

yes, but both very heavy and very light vehicles can both be successful off-road. a heavier vehicle just needs special consideration when off-roading in certain conditions, like suspension and tire psi.

:laugh:

 

[Roc Doc]

True....but you're generally going to require a lot more engine and much stouter drivetrain to handle all that extra mass.

After finding out how much a stock 3rd Gen actually weighs....I definitely should have gone with 1tons instead of the Tundra rear and FJ80 front axles even if they are 300M. I'm just hoping I don't break too often with the 37s.

I ran Toy mini truck axles on the camo'd '85, Bobby's 30sp up front, and the Poly Performance tapered axles out back, and even with 38's I had very little breakage in 10 years with that truck. True I broke near one of every thing, lock-rite, locking hub, front R&P, rear R&P, I didn't keep breaking the same thing over and over, so it was acceptable damage in my opion for the types of trails we were running. Hammers, Rubicon, Area 52 Moab, not the easy stuff. One tons are great for strength, but the ground clearance you loose sucks. A fabricated 35sp, HP 9" is the way to go IMO, and if I ever build another rockcrawler that's what I'll be doing.

 

[IBallEngineer]

And this one was near 6000lbs. Plate bumpers, tube rock sliders, 12k winch with steel rope, 3-link front with coilovers, 35's, etc.. There wasn't much room to shave weight on the FZJ80, what it really needed was an LS1.

Almost 7000 baby! 1/4 steel plate bumpers, 3/16 tire carrier, lots of .120 wall tubing on the roof rack. FZJ80 axles with one ton steering. Oh yeah, 4l60 and a 5.3. 2 spare tires, lots of recovery gear and 6 gallons of water. I usually carry everyone else's extra sh%^&t too. I did save a few pounds using a 12K Hydraulic winch, but I still have steel cable. That winch is 22 years old! Rear axle alone displaces 3600#.

I suppose that is why I broke the left front leaf within minutes of taking this picture!

The motor home wants it on a diet too!

 

[calimobber]

When I moved last mine weighed in around 5200 with gobi rack and car full of stuff.

 

[Roc Doc]

Almost 7000 baby! 1/4 steel plate bumpers, 3/16 tire carrier, lots of .120 wall tubing on the roof rack. FZJ80 axles with one ton steering. Oh yeah, 4l60 and a 5.3. 2 spare tires, lots of recovery gear and 6 gallons of water. I usually carry everyone else's extra sh%^&t too. I did save a few pounds using a 12K Hydraulic winch, but I still have steel cable. That winch is 22 years old! Rear axle alone displaces 3600#.

I suppose that is why I broke the left front leaf within minutes of taking this picture!

The motor home wants it on a diet too!

Nice Crusier. Two spares, really?

 

[psraff]

Nice Crusier. Two spares, really?

Not unheard of. Just driving through Canada up to Alaska it's a wise choice. That's not even "Off-Road".

 

[Roc Doc]

Not unheard of. Just driving through Canada up to Alaska it's a wise choice. That's not even "Off-Road".

Overlanding OK, but just trail running, lots of times we'd leave them at camp. Plus if you hang with Toy folks it's all 6 x 5.5.

 

[Echo_Spartan]

Stock SR5 weight...for now!

 

[IBallEngineer]

Nice Crusier. Two spares, really?

When you weigh 3-1/2 tons, and DON'T have bead locks, it's not hard to unseat the bead, and in the process damage the tire. I once had two flats on one 11 mile trail, fortunately the second one did not damage the sidewall. I've been carrying two spares ever since, and it has not happened again.

But why risk it?

When my son inherits it, he can take one off!

 

[Roc Doc]

When you weigh 3-1/2 tons, and DON'T have bead locks, it's not hard to unseat the bead, and in the process damage the tire. I once had two flats on one 11 mile trail, fortunately the second one did not damage the sidewall. I've been carrying two spares ever since, and it has not happened again.

But why risk it?

When my son inherits it, he can take one off!

I put those Interco Birddog wheels on my FZJ80 and they worked great. Almost as good as a real mechanical beadlock, without having to constantly tighten the rings. My PU had Stauns and they worked great, but I don't know if they make 'em anymore.

The New Interco Birddog Wheel - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

 

[99 sr5 highlander]

Mine weighs just a tick over 5,000 lbs without passengers or gear. Just realized that with some of the trailers I've towed I have been well over the 5,000 lbs towing capacity... So, it turns out a 3rd gen does just fine with about 7,000 lbs over curb weight... and 275,000 miles... :behindsofa:

 

[Sean K.]

I ran Toy mini truck axles on the camo'd '85, Bobby's 30sp up front, and the Poly Performance tapered axles out back, and even with 38's I had very little breakage in 10 years with that truck. True I broke near one of every thing, lock-rite, locking hub, front R&P, rear R&P, I didn't keep breaking the same thing over and over, so it was acceptable damage in my opion for the types of trails we were running. Hammers, Rubicon, Area 52 Moab, not the easy stuff. One tons are great for strength, but the ground clearance you loose sucks. A fabricated 35sp, HP 9" is the way to go IMO, and if I ever build another rockcrawler that's what I'll be doing.

Meh...if you're running 40's, the ground clearance loss isn't much of an issue. I'd agree about fabbed housings if money were no object, then I'd likely go Tru Hi-9 up front in a Spider Trax housing with a Torq 14B rear fabricated housing.....but I personally can't afford $15K+ in just axles at this point.

The difference in our scenarios is my 4Runner is going to be 1/3 heavier (by a ton) before it ever hits a trail....and the 37s I have are a little heavier/larger than the 38x12.5 Swamper.

 

[Sean K.]

I put those Interco Birddog wheels on my FZJ80 and they worked great. Almost as good as a real mechanical beadlock, without having to constantly tighten the rings. My PU had Stauns and they worked great, but I don't know if they make 'em anymore.

The New Interco Birddog Wheel - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine

Why are you having to constantly tighten beadlock rings?....after the first time out on the trail, tighten them once and I haven't had any of mine back off....except for the one time I sheared a bolt head....then I had to tighten the ones around it when I replaced the broken bolt.

 

[Roc Doc]

Meh...if you're running 40's, the ground clearance loss isn't much of an issue. I'd agree about fabbed housings if money were no object, then I'd likely go Tru Hi-9 up front in a Spider Trax housing with a Torq 14B rear fabricated housing.....but I personally can't afford $15K+ in just axles at this point.

The difference in our scenarios is my 4Runner is going to be 1/3 heavier (by a ton) before it ever hits a trail....and the 37s I have are a little heavier/larger than the 38x12.5 Swamper.

I get it, fab'd axles are big money, but I was running a shaved 14b with 39" stickys in my buggy I still had less ground cleareance than my shaved Toy housing in the PU. (BTW, 38.5/14.5-15's OD 38.3").

You might know this one.

 

[Sean K.]

I get it, fab'd axles are big money, but I was running a shaved 14b with 39" stickys in my buggy I still had less ground cleareance than my shaved Toy housing in the PU. (BTW, 38.5/14.5-15's OD 38.3").

You might know this one.

Never found it to be an issue....might have to take a different line, but not really a deal breaker for the strength you gain.

Sorry....forgot you were running the 38.5s....I was running the 38s and they were only a 37.

 

[Lindenwood]

I still have a couple more skid plates and my sliders to add, but right now I am about 4750lbs with bumpers, winch, front skid, hi-lift (w/ winching kit) 33s + full-sized spare, and tools. I estimate something around 4850 once I am done.

I live near a waste transfer station and had been doing a lot of projects requiring me to take extra loads to the dump (tearing out cabinets, etc).

Of note, factoring in the factory rear bumper + hitch, I honestly probably only added less than 50 lbs with my custom rear bumper w/ swing. It isnt quite complete, but the remaining minor structural and aesthetic additions will probably only add like 15 more lbs.

 

[Lindenwood]

Just weighed in at ~4920lbs, with ~6gas of gas in the tank (37lbs), my child seat (25lbs), and some misc junk I was taking to a friend's (10-15lb). That would be about 4850 without that stuff.

2002 SR5

33" MTs on 16x8 Alum wheels

Front:
-Custom Steel bumper
-Winch (symthetic cable)
-Custom radiator Skid plate
-60" Hi-lift jack (on hood)
-30lb of winching chains (in engine bay)
-0.5[Sliders]

Rear:
-Full-sized spare.
-Plywood cargo box
-Custom steel bumper
-Tools / Recovery gear / Camping gear
-Fridge
-Compressor
-0.5[Sliders]
-Custom gas tank skid

Google lists curb weights of 3930 to 3975lbs.

Honestly, even using some varied numbers, at most I get maybe 750lb over stock, including the wheels and tires. So, I am curious exactly how that curb weight is measured, or if perhaps it doesnt include options like the rear heater or whatever.