How much in repairs in too much? - Opinions Needed

[Flash Runner]

I have a 2007 V8 AWD Limited for about a year now, and currently sitting on about 178k miles. It has some rust, and I've been anticipating some repairs as followed:

CV axle on passenger side
Coolant leak - mechanic had told me before it would be about $600
then the 180k mileage service, of timing belt, water pump, etc..

Thing is my power steering just got f***** up out of no where, and my mechanic says I need new rack/pinon, pump, high pressure line, and return line. He said the cause looked like a leak in the rack and this leak caused the pump to fail... so after talking to him, he quoted me $3k for the repair, including new CV axle...this seemed like an appropriate price compared to other estimates I got in the area.

Plus he said my water pump was leaking and upon further inspection it’s failed and I need to do the whole water pump, timing belt, etc.... then quoted me $1300, which I thought was high! I called my Toyota dealer and they quoted me $800 for it.... the dealership is $500 cheaper, strange. I’ll definitely see for myself if it’s failing, but I know that’s an immediate fix.

I realize this post needs pictures, but I’m on my phone and will post some when I get home to my computer.

I want your all’s opinion: is the truck worth it to put about $4k in repairs, or time to sell it? I really do love the truck, but it’s a hard pill to swallow. The goal is to get to 250k without another >$1k repair to deal with.

 

[woodman60]

Have to look at your options. No one is going to give you a very good price on it with all those repairs needed. So you sell it for bottom dollar, then what, go shop for a well maintained, lower mileage Runner that you'll pay significantly more for? Do the repairs and add most of that value to the car, and you know exactly what the status of everything is.

As for the repairs, "Coolant leak" is $600. What does that mean? What's going to be repaired? Is that redundant with the water pump?

 

[5vzT4R]

A $600 dollar coolant leak? Um, any info on where its "leaking"? Most leaks are from the water pump and that is included in the timing belt change.

Timing belt isn't a repair, it's just apart of the maintenance of owning a timing belt engine. Have the dealer do it.

CV axle? It's so easy grab a buddy to help you, watch a couple YouTube videos on it and change it out in a couple hours for the cost of a CV axle.

I dont know a whole bunch on prices of the steering rack, but a pump you can probably get for under $100, and do that yourself, very easy to change a power steering pump.

 

[Trumpet]

A second opinion from a different garage, or the dealer would be wise.


My other thought is, where will you get a 4runner for $4k. So it might be worth the investment.

 

[Atlanta_man]

Couple years ago a super convenient nearby local shop said I needed a $1,200 steering rack that was leaking profusely. No thanks, still no leak. Don't know how they can tell such big and easy to refute ones.

Must be a favorite thing to repair...

 

[Flash Runner]

Thank you for all the input so far! The advice received it was I expected, and after processing every option I can think about, I was planning on fixing it... I just wanted reassurance. I know these 4runners will and can last to 300k, but it does require good maintenance and practice to do so.

The timing belt, water pump, etc.. I know was no reason to consider getting rid of the truck, as its maintenance not a repair. It's just the fact that it's needing to be done right now, when I'm having to get another repair done.... I was just distraught at getting an estimate over $1k, as I'm a college student and am not flush with cash to shell out $4k for everything at the moment (my Amex will not be happy). So inspecting it myself to see if it's actually failing, will definitely be a big defining factor... anyone have any recommendations on what to look for to see if it's failing?

As for the whole PS system...The whole story is my normal mechanic that I trust (whose in KY and I'm living in GA for the summer so I can't use him), had said the rack had a small leak... I couldn't repair it at the time, and he said to just keep an eye on it, but it's okay to put if off for a bit. So I believe this GA mechanic, when he says that it needs to be replaced, along with the pump. So the original estimate he gave me was $2.8 for all OEM: rack, pump, high pressure line, and return line. THEN after talking to me about the CV (which I knew about) and needing tie rods (which I didn't know about, quoted $75 per), he was saying he'd waive labor on them, and essentially get me out the door with all that and an alignment for $3k. Especially if the CV is OEM, I feel like that would be saving me some money on that repair, that I'd inevitably have to do.

The coolant leak: My KY mechanic, when he went through my car and spotted it, he was explaining to me as to why he couldn't determine the exact cause based on where he found the leak (I've attached a pic of it). He wasn't telling me it would be $600, but just to budget that as it would not go over $600... in fact it could be much less, just didn't want to tell me it's $300 and I bring that too him to find out it's $600 once he started the work. As mentioned by some of you, and this GA Mechanic, I'm hoping that the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, etc.. will fix that issue and the 4runner will be golden (well, at-least there's no more repairs or high $ maintenance I'm anticipating any time soon) If anyone has an idea of the cause of my leak based on the pic, I'm all ears!

Bottom Line: I'm going to fix it. I am still toying with the idea of paying this GA Mech. his diagnostic fee, and taking it to another shop for a second opinion (as opposed to just price shopping the work he said I needed done), but this shop was recommend to me by some local 4runner guys, and I don't want to spend the diagnostic fee to be told the same thing somewhere else, and then not get the same deal on the CV and Tie Rods to save money on that issue.... so I'm torn on just trusting this guy, or getting a second opinion.

Lastly, I know this post was a book, so thanks to anyone reading and providing input. I've grown up admiring cars, but never was able to get into really working on them at all, so I've made a few errors along the way (i.e my rust is more of a big deal than I thought it would be when I purchased). Though thanks to this forum and all you guys, I'm slowly learning things, and am trying to do more and more on my own. I just don't want to bite off more than I can chew, and make the vehicle unsafe for myself, or others on the road. :bluejump:

 

[matt922]

That coolant leak up high like that is like a 30 minute fix, tops. I actually just did the timing belt on mine and had to redo that part because the "fipg - form in place gasket" fancy speak for RTV, didnt hold. I honestly redid it in 30 mins.

Drain a gallon or so of coolant between the pass side block drain and the radiator petcock on driver side.
Disconnect rad hose.

Loosen clamp on small hose connecting to thermostat housing, remove two 12mm bolts and pull thermostat housing out. Dig old fipg out of old housing and replace oring on the inlet. Reapply fipg in groove with liberal amount and then put it all back together. Give it a few hours to seal and refill with coolant.

Or just have tbelt/waterpump done and that should get fixed because it has to be removed for the service.

 

[Trumpet]

Thank you for all the input so far! The advice received it was I expected, and after processing every option I can think about, I was planning on fixing it... I just wanted reassurance. I know these 4runners will and can last to 300k, but it does require good maintenance and practice to do so.

:bluejump:

That paints a better picture. Some of those repairs overlap, if the shop will cut you some slack $$ with that fact get it done.

The total cost will hurt, but it will be more painful if a small fault causes a bigger fault.

 

[UURunner]

Yeah I'm guessing he said $600 to cover a full water pump, thermostat with housing, new hoses, and 5-6 hours of labor to go with it. I assume the guy above me is right about where it is leaking; if it is dripping out of the weep hole of the water pump then I would just replace the entire water pump. But if you get the belt service done on the V8 with new belt, new water pump, and new thermostat with new hoses it should fix all that.

 

[Flash Runner]

Wanted to provide an update. I went with replacing the rack, pump, both lines, tie rods, CV axle, and alignment for $3k with OEM parts. I feel that it was a good deal and worth it

Still deciding on what to do about my water pump. Dealer is charging me $800 for the timing belt, water pump, Tstat. This guy want's $1300, to do it including a "Timing Belt Component Kit" (described as the idler pulley's, tensioners, etc..)... I've yet to hear about this being necessary, and worth $500 in parts as the labor shouldn't be different... anyone have any input on this??

EDIT: Called Dealer, the tech at the dealer recommended doing the component kit as well, and to tack that on to the job, they'd charge $1300 as well.... So should I just go with it to be done with any repairs, or save my $500.

 

[djkurious]

Wanted to provide an update. I went with replacing the rack, pump, both lines, tie rods, CV axle, and alignment for $3k with OEM parts. I feel that it was a good deal and worth it

Still deciding on what to do about my water pump. Dealer is charging me $800 for the timing belt, water pump, Tstat. This guy want's $1300, to do it including a "Timing Belt Component Kit" (described as the idler pulley's, tensioners, etc..)... I've yet to hear about this being necessary, and worth $500 in parts as the labor shouldn't be different... anyone have any input on this??

Go with the dealer for the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat. $800 sounds fair to me.

 

[nevada]

Wanted to provide an update. I went with replacing the rack, pump, both lines, tie rods, CV axle, and alignment for $3k with OEM parts. I feel that it was a good deal and worth it

Still deciding on what to do about my water pump. Dealer is charging me $800 for the timing belt, water pump, Tstat. This guy want's $1300, to do it including a "Timing Belt Component Kit" (described as the idler pulley's, tensioners, etc..)... I've yet to hear about this being necessary, and worth $500 in parts as the labor shouldn't be different... anyone have any input on this??

EDIT: Called Dealer, the tech at the dealer recommended doing the component kit as well, and to tack that on to the job, they'd charge $1300 as well.... So should I just go with it to be done with any repairs, or save my $500.

while I do think its a bit high for the WP repair(I did my own for under $300 with all the parts), if you're going to end up paying the dealer the same price, you might as well just have the mechanic do it all while he has the rig.

 

[Flash Runner]

while I do think its a bit high for the WP repair(I did my own for under $300 with all the parts), if you're going to end up paying the dealer the same price, you might as well just have the mechanic do it all while he has the rig.

Of course, easier to get it all done at the same place! It was more just about if I should spend the extra $500 or not right now based on:

Is the pulley's/tensioner worth the $500 rn since the labor is involved already?
or do I not fix replace the pulleys/tensioner rn, and possibly never have to, an risk having to spend the $500 + labor later on to replace them if I need to?

 

[nevada]

Of course, easier to get it all done at the same place! It was more just about if I should spend the extra $500 or not right now based on:

Is the pulley's/tensioner worth the $500 rn since the labor is involved already?
or do I not fix replace the pulleys/tensioner rn, and possibly never have to, an risk having to spend the $500 + labor later on to replace them if I need to?

opinions vary on that subject. personally, I wont do that job without doing the entire job. to me that means changing all the pulleys and tensioner.

 

[Trumpet]

Of course, easier to get it all done at the same place! It was more just about if I should spend the extra $500 or not right now based on:

Is the pulley's/tensioner worth the $500 rn since the labor is involved already?
or do I not fix replace the pulleys/tensioner rn, and possibly never have to, an risk having to spend the $500 + labor later on to replace them if I need to?

In reading the forums, V8 owners indicated that timing belt failures were sometimes preceded by water pump leaks. The feeling was that the antifreeze softens the belt hastening failure.

My 2cents, get it done. Going to hurt now $$ yes, but if you put it off it'll hurt more if the belt fails.

 

[Flash Runner]

Thanks for all the input everybody. I decided to go ahead and do the pulleys/tensioners as well, having the same guy do all the work. I had little time to make the decision, as I need the truck up and running by EOD Thursday for a trip I'm going on, and figured this was also the fastest option..... "buy once, cry once" right? Now let's just see how long $4500 takes to stop crying

the breakdown of everything is as follows:

$3,000: $2800 of which is for the Power Steering system (new rack, pump, lines). For an additional $200, I'm getting new tie rods, passenger CV axle (as mine was throwing grease), an alignment, and he'll grease the zerks on the driveline as it needed it. I think this was a good deal on the job for what I'm getting

$1,300: New water pump (as indeed mine was failing), timing belt, thermostat, idlers/pulleys.... Didn't have time to really shop this, but given it's the same price the dealer told me, and he was already doing other work on the truck, I just went ahead and got it done.

 

[Greenwing7]

That coolant leak up high like that is like a 30 minute fix, tops. I actually just did the timing belt on mine and had to redo that part because the "fipg - form in place gasket" fancy speak for RTV, didnt hold. I honestly redid it in 30 mins.

Drain a gallon or so of coolant between the pass side block drain and the radiator petcock on driver side.
Disconnect rad hose.

Loosen clamp on small hose connecting to thermostat housing, remove two 12mm bolts and pull thermostat housing out. Dig old fipg out of old housing and replace oring on the inlet. Reapply fipg in groove with liberal amount and then put it all back together. Give it a few hours to seal and refill with coolant.

Or just have tbelt/waterpump done and that should get fixed because it has to be removed for the service.

Is there any place other than the O-ring and form in place gasket it could be leaking I've replace both of those and there was a small pool of coolant there by where its stamped 2UZF under the throttle body. Are there any leak points where it might be coming up from? I'd think coolant would want to leak down. But there's definitely some of the pink stuff there

 

[matt922]

Is there any place other than the O-ring and form in place gasket it could be leaking I've replace both of those and there was a small pool of coolant there by where its stamped 2UZF under the throttle body. Are there any leak points where it might be coming up from? I'd think coolant would want to leak down. But there's definitely some of the pink stuff there

Could be dripping down from the hose, thermostat(3 bolts), or even the waterpump as that is what the form in place gasket bonds to. My original waterpump had been leaking and it only has 85k miles on it.

 

[Flash Runner]

Update and still confused:

So I picked up the runner up from the shop today, and everything seemed like it was in working order. I had a trip to go on, so after having it for two hours and driving a little around town, I hit the road. After 200 miles on the hwy I pull off and notice that my steering is hard to turn again, and hear that dreaded whine of the PS pump.....I get to the gas station and the PS reservoir is empty!!

Luckily the gas station had ATF that was qualified for DEX III, so I filled up the reservoir, and went down the street and back into the gas station. The whine was going every time I turned and while the steering was smoother it wasn't quite what it was when I got it from the shop. I check the reservoir and its empty again.... so without many options I fill it back up, and had a second quart in the truck, and kept driving the next 120 miles to my destination.

I pull off the hwy again and I'm expecting the steering to be hard to turn again, but I'm surprised it's not... I check the reservoir and it's full, like when I filled it up 120 miles back... I drive away and I don't here the whine and its turning fine...

Anyone have any ideas what my issue is?

To recap I had a new rack/pinion, pump, high pressure, and return lines installed... and at the same time I had the Water pump, timing belt, Tstat, and idlers/pulleys replaced

 

[AuSeeker]

So I picked up the runner up from the shop today, and everything seemed like it was in working order. I had a trip to go on, so after having it for two hours and driving a little around town, I hit the road. After 200 miles on the hwy I pull off and notice that my steering is hard to turn again, and hear that dreaded whine of the PS pump.....I get to the gas station and the PS reservoir is empty!!

Luckily the gas station had ATF that was qualified for DEX III, so I filled up the reservoir, and went down the street and back into the gas station. The whine was going every time I turned and while the steering was smoother it wasn't quite what it was when I got it from the shop. I check the reservoir and its empty again.... so without many options I fill it back up, and had a second quart in the truck, and kept driving the next 120 miles to my destination.

I pull off the hwy again and I'm expecting the steering to be hard to turn again, but I'm surprised it's not... I check the reservoir and it's full, like when I filled it up 120 miles back... I drive away and I don't here the whine and its turning fine...

Anyone have any ideas what my issue is?

To recap I had a new rack/pinion, pump, high pressure, and return lines installed... and at the same time I had the Water pump, timing belt, Tstat, and idlers/pulleys replaced

If you're not seeing any signs of a leak it sounds like the mechanic just filled the reservoir and didn't go through the process of getting all the air out of the system.