How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

Was this on the crank sensor circuit or on the O2 sensor? Mine warms up in open loop too if I remember correctly I really don't pay much attention to it but I'm pretty sure that's what it does I think that's just how the ECU works.

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The ecm does warm up in open loop. But when a certain water temp is reached it goes back to closed loop.

I put it on the O2 circuit, which in my truck is the AFR sensor. Without the 10K resistor I couldn't get the AFR's to change with any significance when trying to skew the O2. So I tried what works for the older trucks and didn't work for mine unless the resistor broke already and created an open loop. I only drove to work so far and haven't taken a look under the dash yet.

I also put the filter resistor on the cam circuit but that is working just fine.
 
The ecm does warm up in open loop. But when a certain water temp is reached it goes back to closed loop.

I put it on the O2 circuit, which in my truck is the AFR sensor. Without the 10K resistor I couldn't get the AFR's to change with any significance when trying to skew the O2. So I tried what works for the older trucks and didn't work for mine unless the resistor broke already and created an open loop. I only drove to work so far and haven't taken a look under the dash yet.

I also put the filter resistor on the cam circuit but that is working just fine.

So wait you have an AFR truck? You shouldn't need a Resistor. Idk if you think you do maybe try a 100k resistor, but if it isnt a narrow band o2 you shouldn't need one.
 
So wait you have an AFR truck? You shouldn't need a Resistor. Idk if you think you do maybe try a 100k resistor, but if it isnt a narrow band o2 you shouldn't need one.

That's what I thought but could not get the FIC to change the AFR's using the AEM instructions. Hell I may have a setting wrong. I took the resistor out, but haven't had time to hook it up to the laptop.
 
Thought I would log in to help potential installers that I just finished installing my FIC a couple days ago with the latest 3.08 hex file. I had a bad misfire hesitation, whatever you want to call it around 2,000rpm under load. Everything was reading properly with ODBII reader and FIC gauges. I flashed firmware to 104 hex file and the misfire is gone completely. I have a 2001 Tacoma quad with auto trans. It has the wideband front o2. I did do the 2.2kohm resistor between CAM1I+ and CAM1I-. I am still on stock injectors, wanted to get it running properly before putting my 550s in. Hope this helps somebody.

Nevermind the above, the misfire is still there, didn't want to mislead anyone. I have a surging idle and part throttle in closed loop and a misfire in low rpm open loop. Ugh.

MTD your timing map pic still isn't working. I'd like to take a peek at it, I'm using a basemap for timing (1* per psi) still, but I'm not into boost yet since I don't have fuel for it.
 
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AEM FI/C and Boomslang Harness

For those of you with a Boomslang and the AEM F/I C do you have any pictures of the way you installed them? There's NOT a lot of wiggle room in there. Also, where did you go through the firewall for the pressure lines and sensor connection for the UEGO Gauge and F/I C? Getting ready to do my install over the next week. Thanks.
 

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Thought I would log in to help potential installers that I just finished installing my FIC a couple days ago with the latest 3.08 hex file. I had a bad misfire hesitation, whatever you want to call it around 2,000rpm under load. Everything was reading properly with ODBII reader and FIC gauges. I flashed firmware to 104 hex file and the misfire is gone completely. I have a 2001 Tacoma quad with auto trans. It has the wideband front o2. I did do the 2.2kohm resistor between CAM1I+ and CAM1I-. I am still on stock injectors, wanted to get it running properly before putting my 550s in. Hope this helps somebody.

Nevermind the above, the misfire is still there, didn't want to mislead anyone. I have a surging idle and part throttle in closed loop and a misfire in low rpm open loop. Ugh.

MTD your timing map pic still isn't working. I'd like to take a peek at it, I'm using a basemap for timing (1* per psi) still, but I'm not into boost yet since I don't have fuel for it.
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For those of you with a Boomslang and the AEM F/I C do you have any pictures of the way you installed them? There's NOT a lot of wiggle room in there. Also, where did you go through the firewall for the pressure lines and sensor connection for the UEGO Gauge and F/I C? Getting ready to do my install over the next week. Thanks.

I didn't use a harness so can't help you there but I went thru the ECU harness grommet on the firewall. You have to remove the two 10mm bolts to be able to properly get wires and hoses thru. My wideband and boost gauge wires/hose went thru a grommet on the driver side.
 
I didn't use a harness so can't help you there but I went thru the ECU harness grommet on the firewall. You have to remove the two 10mm bolts to be able to properly get wires and hoses thru. My wideband and boost gauge wires/hose went thru a grommet on the driver side.

Thanks Drew. There's not a lot of room up there for the Boomslang. It looks like I will need to modify the glove box.
 
Thanks Drew. There's not a lot of room up there for the Boomslang. It looks like I will need to modify the glove box.

It will fit. It's a pain though. The best place I found is above the black plastic piece around the latch. If you put it there, about the only place to put the FIC is in the glove box.

I would definitely test everything out before you put it all back together. Their harness wouldn't work with mine.
 
Well, I finally got everything back together, 1998 4runner with the black TRD blower, 2.1 pulley, Boomslang and AEM F/I6, 380 cc injectors. Truck will not start. Put the bypass on the AEM and it fires right up. It is rich as hell and idles high - 1400, but it runs smoothly. Pull the bypass on the AEM - no start and P0340 cam position sensor error.

Any ideas??
 
24 pages later...

How many of you are actually up and running with this setup, without issues? Please, no BS needed =D.

I'm still intrigued by this setup, but with the 4Runner back to DD duties, cannot afford to lose the reliability of the ol' 7th injector kit.
 
I am running it in my DD it took some trouble shooting with crossed wires and whatnot but its been just as reliable if not more than stock. I know alot of people don't post that they have it running. Rocklobster comes to mind and one other guy.

If your on the fence and your 7th Is working stick to that.

As for problems with the boomslang harnesses, I am going to Remove them from my write up because they seem to cause way more harm than good. I'm hardwired and haven't had any issues, but the people who bought the "plug and play" harness seem to have butt loads of issues...

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OK, not as bad as initially thought. I had to reflash the FIC and it started right up. I used the base fuel table create function and it is close, but not. Of course my 2 month old AEM WB died. After about 20 seconds of declining numbers it says "UEGO Sensor Offline" I guess that means I need a new sensor?? So anyway, tuning is postponed until I have a working WB.

Plus I have a terrible vacuum leak around the base of the SC. I am going to have to pull it back off. I'm gonna try the Felpro gasket this time cause the OEM steel one I bought just doesn't look that great.
 
I've been running it every day since February. After a frustrating tuning learning curve it's been running pretty good. I just installed the 2.2 pulley and have been running the n/a supra injectors since the start. Even with the stock fuel pump I have absolutely no fuel starvation problems. I could probably actually lean it out some still at full boost.
I just picked up a supra maf, so back to tune learning board.
 
Ok, this tuning is ....different. I used the "create a base fuel map" function to get started. It is rich, so I am dealing with that. However, when I go to the O2 map and start tweaking that I get confused. So at around 2000 rpm I change the O2 values to get the AF ratio down where I want it, write down the corresponding STFT for later. No problem. But when I go to my Fuel map, of course, there are already precalculated values there from using the "create" function. So, should I change all the Fuel map values back to zero and do the O2 deal, or add, subtract, ? Not only did I pulley down to the 2.1, but I also went from the stock injectors to 380cc so the base fuel map created by the FIC includes changes for that as well. TIA!
 
Ok, this tuning is ....different. I used the "create a base fuel map" function to get started. It is rich, so I am dealing with that. However, when I go to the O2 map and start tweaking that I get confused. So at around 2000 rpm I change the O2 values to get the AF ratio down where I want it, write down the corresponding STFT for later. No problem. But when I go to my Fuel map, of course, there are already precalculated values there from using the "create" function. So, should I change all the Fuel map values back to zero and do the O2 deal, or add, subtract, ? Not only did I pulley down to the 2.1, but I also went from the stock injectors to 380cc so the base fuel map created by the FIC includes changes for that as well. TIA!

I would add subtract. Do a run and see where it's at. If very lean stop and add fuel. If rich just pull fuel. We used to garage tune. Jack car up on stands and do runs slightly holding brake. Neighbors didn't like it so much. Haha.
 
Your o2 map is where you will change your afr values, but it goes hand in hand with the fuel map. That's where your stft come to play. Adjust your fuel map to keep your stft in check, not to change your afr numbers. At least in closed loop.
 

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