How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

Your o2 map is where you will change your afr values, but it goes hand in hand with the fuel map. That's where your stft come to play. Adjust your fuel map to keep your stft in check, not to change your afr numbers. At least in closed loop.

Ok, that makes sense. I am also having trouble with cold starts. Earlier I tweaked the MAF table down low and it seemed to work and start but yesterday I had to disconnect the AEM, start it and let it warm up, then plug the AEM back up. Any ideas there??
 
I'm having similar issues while its cold, but not as bad. Mine leans out when it's cold. I'm going to try pulling more fuel on the fuel map. Maybe the computer is seeing as too rich and pulling fuel.
 
Ok after a weekend of tuning, I need some advise. The o2 skewing didn't take more than .14 volts, although I do have a brand new O2 sensor. Where did everyone end up with the O2 offset? Also, I haven't had to pull any timing yet, is that common? Running the 2.1 pulley, but it is only making about 10 psi while depositing lots of rubber shavings on the blower support. No oil in it so that is good!
 
Figured out the cold start problem. Turns out my battery was on it's way out and the voltage was only around 10 volts in the morning. A new battery and the cold start problem is gone! Any info related to your O2 table offsets will be appreciated. Getting closer.
 
Figured out the cold start problem. Turns out my battery was on it's way out and the voltage was only around 10 volts in the morning. A new battery and the cold start problem is gone! Any info related to your O2 table offsets will be appreciated. Getting closer.

Hey, good call!! I haven't even touched mine since I got AEM to check it out, several months - they said it was fine. So I bought a new Odyssey yesterday and threw it in, plugged in the Boomslang harness and AEM, fired right up!! No time to mess with it, but it started!! Yes my old battery was pretty slow turning it over.....
 
I am still learning about this tuning thing and it is trying my patience....Couple questions:

1. Does anyone know what the MAF clamp should be set at in the setup? It is supposed to be set at the max volts that would be seen on a naturally aspirated 4runner, whatever that is. Since mine has never been that way I have no idea. I have seen almost 5 volts during tuning, but I think this has to be set for things to work correctly.

2. I still cannot get my tune to stay consistent. One pull the AFR is perfect and the next it is 13.5, then back to perfect. Any ideas?
 
i think that part of the problem is the 18 year old Toyota ECU is a little slow and grumpy as hell when messed with. The good thing about it, so far, is that the motor doesn't seem to mind running lean. I still have not heard any pinging and I haven't pulled any timing yet.

Just looking for a little confirmation of what others have done. I know there are a couple that have tuned the AEM on this board, or at least there were.....
 
I am still learning about this tuning thing and it is trying my patience....Couple questions:

1. Does anyone know what the MAF clamp should be set at in the setup? It is supposed to be set at the max volts that would be seen on a naturally aspirated 4runner, whatever that is. Since mine has never been that way I have no idea. I have seen almost 5 volts during tuning, but I think this has to be set for things to work correctly.

2. I still cannot get my tune to stay consistent. One pull the AFR is perfect and the next it is 13.5, then back to perfect. Any ideas?



1. I did logging on mine before I supercharged my motor and I believe the highest it ever read NA was about 3.2v. I don't know if it will be the same for anyone else though. I imagine it would be.

2. Are you only adjusting the fuel table? You have to adjust the o2 table also to "lock in" the changes. Otherwise, the computer will see you added fuel somewhere and it will trim it back to where it wants it (14.7). By adjusting the o2 table, you're essentially lying to the computer to get what you want. If you want to add fuel somewhere, you tell the computer it is running lean in that spot through the o2 table, and the computer will add fuel, basically accepting what you've added
 
I have my own question about the MAF now too haha

Has anyone with the older style MAF converted to the newer style and also has the FIC? Did you adjust your MAF table to represent the change in airflow between the two styles? I.E. increase all values by 1 or 2%
 
1. I did logging on mine before I supercharged my motor and I believe the highest it ever read NA was about 3.2v. I don't know if it will be the same for anyone else though. I imagine it would be.

2. Are you only adjusting the fuel table? You have to adjust the o2 table also to "lock in" the changes. Otherwise, the computer will see you added fuel somewhere and it will trim it back to where it wants it (14.7). By adjusting the o2 table, you're essentially lying to the computer to get what you want. If you want to add fuel somewhere, you tell the computer it is running lean in that spot through the o2 table, and the computer will add fuel, basically accepting what you've added

I have been adjusting the o2 table mainly. Sometimes it works and then it won't. Can't figure out why it is so inconsistent. It will initially go rich but then as the rpms climb it starts pulling fuel and goes lean. How much are you backing out in the o2 table? I am at no more than -.2 volts. Maybe I need to pull more?

So, did you clamp your MAF in the MAF table or are you only adjusting it for the newer MAF? The way I understand the whole MAF thing is that you clamp it mainly to eliminate the possibility of a CEL, which I have had none, so I don't know if it will make any difference or not.
 
I have my own question about the MAF now too haha

Has anyone with the older style MAF converted to the newer style and also has the FIC? Did you adjust your MAF table to represent the change in airflow between the two styles? I.E. increase all values by 1 or 2%

I did it on my 4Runner but I do not have the AEM unit yet. My fuel trims are went from +7-8 to +18.5 on my reader and threw a lean code the first few days. It seems to be a significantly higher amount of air entering now. How to adjust that on the software I have no idea.

When I sell off the rest of my part out and actually have money for this... I plan on taking it to a tuning shop and get a good base tune and then I'll tweak it from there.
 
I am still learning about this tuning thing and it is trying my patience....Couple questions:

1. Does anyone know what the MAF clamp should be set at in the setup? It is supposed to be set at the max volts that would be seen on a naturally aspirated 4runner, whatever that is. Since mine has never been that way I have no idea. I have seen almost 5 volts during tuning, but I think this has to be set for things to work correctly.

Answer:You can ignore the MAF clamp, I think I clamped mine, but you wont need it.

2. I still cannot get my tune to stay consistent. One pull the AFR is perfect and the next it is 13.5, then back to perfect. Any ideas?
Answer:Have you been reseting the ECU before every tuning session? If not your probably just detuning it worse every time you change something... Here is the basic process:

1. Reset ECU before every sesion
2. Tune for AFR using only the Fuel table
3. reset the ecu every now and then (every hour of tuning or so, or whenver your vehicle gets shut off) getting your numbers to where you want them
4. Tune ignition to smooth out tip-in or any other misses due to knock.
5. reset the ecu every now and then (every hour of tuning or so, or whenver your vehicle gets shut off) getting ignition table to where you want it. ie. no knock
6. Reset your ecu and don't touch your fuel table.
7. Now the hard part tuning the O2 voltages and skewing to trick the ECU into no tuning out your tune. You do this by watching your LTFT (long term fuel trims) and getting them as close as possible to ZERO!
8. Repeat until you have the LTFT valeus within +/- 5 points of zero

See above notes
 
Last edited:

Alright guys,

I am working on getting my 1999 Tacoma with stock supercharger setup with this AEM FIC/6.

Ive set it all up using MTDs awesome write up and have gotten everything plugged in and am having some issues.

I made my own jumper harness and Ive double checked that everything is placed correctly. I double checked the location on the 2.2k resistor between the CAM MAGI- and CAM MAGI+. The truck runs fine without the jumper harness plugged in.

For one Im getting a P0340 code at start up. If I clear the code right away it will just pop back up, but if I wait tell the truck has gone into closed loop for a while then it will stay cleared and run fine.

Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Well, after realizing that I was experiencing several different issues that traced back to my DIY jumper harness and the pins in the female plug I said F it and ordered the stupid URD Type C jumper harness.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top