ShooterMcGavin
New member
My first How-to. It's pretty basic, but I hope it can help someone...
On-board air, built into the truck is a great solution for compressed air needs, but it is usually a much bigger project than just getting a portable air compressor. The problem with many/most portable compressors is their tendency to be "light duty" with components that are difficult to replace. My solution is to buy an on-board compressor and build a few parts to make it portable...
I bought the Viair 380C. Why did I get this compressor, rather than a portable model that is already a complete package ready to go? This compressor handles 100+psi with ease, but the biggest reason is the 100% duty cycle for this unit. Most of the portable models have a limit of 25-33% duty cycle. When I'm on the trail with a group, I don't want to be burning up my compressor as I try not to hold everyone up while getting ready for the drive home.
It does not have contacts that will hook up to the battery and it has a standard threaded 1/4" NPT output rather than a tire chuck, which are both usually found on portable compressors. Those are the parts that I had to fab up, but it isn't difficult.
For this project, here are all the parts that I bought:
Viair 380C air compressor
Plastair HoseKoil PU425-1-3-AMZ 1/4-Inch x 25-Foot
100A Car Auto Battery Test Clip Alligator Clamp
Radio Shack part 6403120 - negative wire connection
Radio Shack part 6403135 - positive wire connection
10 GA Gauge awg Red Black Stranded
2 - 1/4" NPT female quick connect air fittings
2 - 1/4" NPT male quick connect air fittings
dual head air chuck
1/4" x 3/4" long stainless bolt
1/4" split washer
1/4" washer
1/4" stainless wing nut
Tools (possibly not a complete list):
Permatex 56521 High Performance Thread Sealant
wire cutters
wire crimper
soldering iron and solder
crescent wrenches
I put the electrical parts together by crimping and soldering the battery clamps onto one end of the wire. On the other end of the wire, to interface with the compressor's connections, I crimped a 1/4" male blade contact on the positive wire and a ring connector on the negative wire. The negative connection is made using the 1/4" bolt with wing nut. I cut the length of wire to about 10 feet. It is long enough to place the compressor on the ground, or to roll down the driver's window and put the compressor on the floor while airing up in the rain.
The compressor side closer.
The wiring was the hard part and the air connections are pretty standard and easy. I used thread sealant for all threaded connections. Some of these air fittings recommend against using Teflon tape. Follow the directions for the sealant and then wipe off the additional sealant after putting the fittings together. Here is a look at the air fittings that I pieced together.
I plan to buy a short length of hose and build a bracket, so I can have a quick connect solution for the air filter.
Here are all the pieces all together:
Ready for duty:
Eventually, I hope to build a bracket and try to fit the compressor into the engine bay, but it's pretty tight. I want to install a 2.5 gallon air tank in the back, or maybe even under the truck. I suspect I will only really need to use ~100psi, so I'm considering an 85-105psi pressure switch and later a second 110-145psi pressure switch. I want to wire the two pressure switches in parrellel with a 3-way switch in the cab. That way, I can select low or high pressure. The low pressure for tools and the high pressure for when I am getting ready to air-up. Of course, I will be using fuses, relays, and a pressure release valve. Eventually, I will want a pressure gauge installed in the cab.
If you guys/gals have any recommendations, questions, or other ideas to improve where this project is going, please feel free to comment.
On-board air, built into the truck is a great solution for compressed air needs, but it is usually a much bigger project than just getting a portable air compressor. The problem with many/most portable compressors is their tendency to be "light duty" with components that are difficult to replace. My solution is to buy an on-board compressor and build a few parts to make it portable...
I bought the Viair 380C. Why did I get this compressor, rather than a portable model that is already a complete package ready to go? This compressor handles 100+psi with ease, but the biggest reason is the 100% duty cycle for this unit. Most of the portable models have a limit of 25-33% duty cycle. When I'm on the trail with a group, I don't want to be burning up my compressor as I try not to hold everyone up while getting ready for the drive home.
It does not have contacts that will hook up to the battery and it has a standard threaded 1/4" NPT output rather than a tire chuck, which are both usually found on portable compressors. Those are the parts that I had to fab up, but it isn't difficult.
For this project, here are all the parts that I bought:
Viair 380C air compressor
Plastair HoseKoil PU425-1-3-AMZ 1/4-Inch x 25-Foot
100A Car Auto Battery Test Clip Alligator Clamp
Radio Shack part 6403120 - negative wire connection
Radio Shack part 6403135 - positive wire connection
10 GA Gauge awg Red Black Stranded
2 - 1/4" NPT female quick connect air fittings
2 - 1/4" NPT male quick connect air fittings
dual head air chuck
1/4" x 3/4" long stainless bolt
1/4" split washer
1/4" washer
1/4" stainless wing nut
Tools (possibly not a complete list):
Permatex 56521 High Performance Thread Sealant
wire cutters
wire crimper
soldering iron and solder
crescent wrenches
I put the electrical parts together by crimping and soldering the battery clamps onto one end of the wire. On the other end of the wire, to interface with the compressor's connections, I crimped a 1/4" male blade contact on the positive wire and a ring connector on the negative wire. The negative connection is made using the 1/4" bolt with wing nut. I cut the length of wire to about 10 feet. It is long enough to place the compressor on the ground, or to roll down the driver's window and put the compressor on the floor while airing up in the rain.
The compressor side closer.
The wiring was the hard part and the air connections are pretty standard and easy. I used thread sealant for all threaded connections. Some of these air fittings recommend against using Teflon tape. Follow the directions for the sealant and then wipe off the additional sealant after putting the fittings together. Here is a look at the air fittings that I pieced together.
I plan to buy a short length of hose and build a bracket, so I can have a quick connect solution for the air filter.
Here are all the pieces all together:
Ready for duty:
Eventually, I hope to build a bracket and try to fit the compressor into the engine bay, but it's pretty tight. I want to install a 2.5 gallon air tank in the back, or maybe even under the truck. I suspect I will only really need to use ~100psi, so I'm considering an 85-105psi pressure switch and later a second 110-145psi pressure switch. I want to wire the two pressure switches in parrellel with a 3-way switch in the cab. That way, I can select low or high pressure. The low pressure for tools and the high pressure for when I am getting ready to air-up. Of course, I will be using fuses, relays, and a pressure release valve. Eventually, I will want a pressure gauge installed in the cab.
If you guys/gals have any recommendations, questions, or other ideas to improve where this project is going, please feel free to comment.
