Ok I added all these to my cart on Camelback Toyota. This is all I should need other than the air filter right? I am going to get the afe pro dry air fiter. Do you just get the one for their CAI?
How-To-Guide (TRD CAI) Installation
- Thread starter TOYSTRY
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Ok I added all these to my cart on Camelback Toyota. This is all I should need other than the air filter right? I am going to get the afe pro dry air fiter. Do you just get the one for their CAI?
Saker
Senior Member
You may need PTR03-34071, unless you plug that top hole on the cover.
You can use your OEM filter in this TRD CAI if you desire.
You will also need a piece of vacuum hose, split wire loom and zip ties to complete the install.
I ran across your attachment and post about those items after posting that. Thank you for reminding me. That vacuum gauge is $20, what else could I use to plug it instead of using the gauge? I have an afe pro dry s filter in my tacoma and like it alot, will probably order one for the 4runner and not have to worry about it after that. Thanks again for your help!
415T4R
New member
adam.friedman.33
New member
After I installed my intake I noticed that the hinge portion was not grabbing strong enough and was easily lifted up with the trd filter installed. I ordered some clamps from Mcmaster Carr and pop riveted them in. Worked like a charm. Had to move pump out of way to engage but it has some give.
McMaster Carr pt#1863A21. It fits flush against the lip for an error free install.
McMaster Carr pt#1863A21. It fits flush against the lip for an error free install.
adam.friedman.33
New member
John-West
New member
I like your clamp solution.
Not sure what the TRD engineers were thinking with that plastic hinge design. They could have just used metal clips like every other filter box and be done with it.
hwell:
adam.friedman.33
New member
It's ridiculous. Especially considering the stock airbox has clamps in exactly the same spot.
Ambient temps (humidity) - before and after testing
The before and after dyno results show that the one with the gains was done on a day that was 7 degrees lower, if I am not mistaken.
I did not see a humidity number anywhere, but safe to assume it was lower on the colder day.
On NA performance cars the general consensus is 1% performance gain/loss for every 10 degrees lower/higher temps. This maybe applicable to a 4.0 V8 to a degree.
If humidity was a lot lower on the colder day this can have a considerable impact on the results with the numbers we saw. I'm not talking orders of magnitude, but not insignificant. A 10 degree decrease on a testing day can potentially yield 2hp gains with the same setup on this truck with that line of logic.
Is it wrong to apply this logic to a less performance focused truck engine?
The before and after dyno results show that the one with the gains was done on a day that was 7 degrees lower, if I am not mistaken.
I did not see a humidity number anywhere, but safe to assume it was lower on the colder day.
On NA performance cars the general consensus is 1% performance gain/loss for every 10 degrees lower/higher temps. This maybe applicable to a 4.0 V8 to a degree.
If humidity was a lot lower on the colder day this can have a considerable impact on the results with the numbers we saw. I'm not talking orders of magnitude, but not insignificant. A 10 degree decrease on a testing day can potentially yield 2hp gains with the same setup on this truck with that line of logic.
Is it wrong to apply this logic to a less performance focused truck engine?
I had the K&N intake on my 2015 Trail for a couple weeks. I thought the sound under WOT was cool, though a bit louder than I would have liked. I also agree that it sure feels like there is more power above 4k rpm.
I pulled it off and sold it for a couple reasons
1) I'm super sensitive to low-end torque (or the lack thereof) in this truck. It has to downshift when a little headwind hits it on the freeway. it's kind of pathetic in that sense. With the K&N, I could sense near zero change in low end torque, and I know enough about intakes (those heimholz resonators are there for more than just sound deadening) to know that it's quite likely we're *losing* low end torque with the K&N. Especially because those resonators are there to improve torque. I haven't seen any dyno tests of the intake that go below 3krpm. I'm not sure it would even be possible to reliably get a reading down to 1.5k with our automatic transmission?
2) Because of the need to downshift to make anything happen, I'd be cruising along quietly, need a bit more power, and then be roaring loudly at the top of the tach (as it kicked down). For me, this dynamic felt a bit juvenile (i'm old) and just reinforced how lazy the truck is down low. That you need to beat the crap out of it to get power. Now, it doesn't help that the engine is just noise, not music. Turning it up is just louder noise (IMO).
/curmudgeon
I pulled it off and sold it for a couple reasons
1) I'm super sensitive to low-end torque (or the lack thereof) in this truck. It has to downshift when a little headwind hits it on the freeway. it's kind of pathetic in that sense. With the K&N, I could sense near zero change in low end torque, and I know enough about intakes (those heimholz resonators are there for more than just sound deadening) to know that it's quite likely we're *losing* low end torque with the K&N. Especially because those resonators are there to improve torque. I haven't seen any dyno tests of the intake that go below 3krpm. I'm not sure it would even be possible to reliably get a reading down to 1.5k with our automatic transmission?
2) Because of the need to downshift to make anything happen, I'd be cruising along quietly, need a bit more power, and then be roaring loudly at the top of the tach (as it kicked down). For me, this dynamic felt a bit juvenile (i'm old) and just reinforced how lazy the truck is down low. That you need to beat the crap out of it to get power. Now, it doesn't help that the engine is just noise, not music. Turning it up is just louder noise (IMO).
/curmudgeon
IronManKansas
New member
Saker
Senior Member
Where do you relocate the second box that connects to the tube?
What second box?
Are you talking about the helmholtz resonator?
Attachments
3wbdriver
New member
I agree with everything you said above with ONLY the intake. But I have seen a small albeit noticeable gain in low to mid-range with the addition of a 3" Magnaflow catback exhaust. Less go pedal input for a given acceleration, it is less prone to downshift on upslopes, and upshifts sooner than before when topping them out. I've also seen a 20-30 mile gain in overall tank mileage when I drive like an old man. Yes, it still needs to drop a gear to pass anyone, but then I was never expecting it to pull like a small block V8. Everything I've driven since my '72 Blazer has had that little problem.
IronManKansas
New member
Yes, sorry I had no idea what it was called.
Saker
Senior Member
[MENTION=97134]IronManKansas[/MENTION],
Where ever you store your OEM intake box and tube is where you will relocate the helmholtz resonator.
Seriously, look at the photos in this thread you will see no helmholtz resonator.
When you read thru the thread, you will read nothing about relocating the helmholtz resonator.
They are not used with the TRD CAI.
Hope this helps.
Where ever you store your OEM intake box and tube is where you will relocate the helmholtz resonator.
Seriously, look at the photos in this thread you will see no helmholtz resonator.
When you read thru the thread, you will read nothing about relocating the helmholtz resonator.
They are not used with the TRD CAI.
Hope this helps.
IronManKansas
New member
[MENTION=135616]991-GT3MJK[/MENTION],
I fixed it for you, cause it was hurting my head to look at it!
How did you connect the small tube it only reached the location of where the helmholtz resonator was? Sorry I am being so needy.
Last edited:
Saker
Senior Member
I took my small nipple to the store and ended up purchasing 20" of 1/8" ID hose as it was a perfect fit!
Check your OEM vacuum hose for sizing!
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