CF_Machete
Senior Member
No as in the TRD top will not fit the stock bottom. that was the first thing I tried to do when I did mine. even if they did fit, the TRD has a better interface where it meats the intake.
How-To-Guide (TRD CAI) Installation
- Thread starter TOYSTRY
- Start date
No as in the TRD top will not fit the stock bottom. that was the first thing I tried to do when I did mine. even if they did fit, the TRD has a better interface where it meats the intake.
Overlanding_USA
New member
Thanks!
crossfire190
New member
I think that gap should be left open so that if any water makes its way into the intake, it can drain out... The installation instructions make no mention of sealing that up.
anomalous
New member
Good point, and I didn't get around to sealing it anyways, got lazy, haha. I kind of just got used to hearing the high pitch noise, I like to pretend it's my massive turbo spooling up
mrblah
Senior Member
I sealed mine up at first with silicone, and all it did was create a big mess in there (dead bugs and leaves), so i got tired of cleaning my air box out with a vacuum cleaner, and have removed the silicone.....my airbox is a lot cleaner without the drian holes being covered.
FYI, I have a snorkel attached to the trd intake so YMMV.
FYI, I have a snorkel attached to the trd intake so YMMV.
codyHTX
Member
has anyone noticed that 1 of the 3 12mm bolts is too long and bottoms out before it gets to the grommet in the new lower airbox?
also what the heck is this thing for?.... i think it was in the bag with the rubber couplers and worm-gear clamps
sorry if these have been answered, i'm dirty and sweaty and don't want to scroll/read all the prior posts...
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Frasty
New member
LOL so I just got my package from Cameltoe....this is so silly that the individual parts come in their own box inside a big box and it's still vastly cheaper than the full kit. They also screwed up and gave me the biggest part twice even though I only ordered one....guess I have a spare upper air box assembly lol
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Curious if anyone else has tried the TB spacer
boomkanani
New member
Just ordered the individual parts for my 2009 Tacoma. Quick question...anybody have a PN for the stock OEM filter they are using? All the Tacoma OEM filters I see look like a different shape. I currently have a Volant CAI with a cone filter, so I can't compare.
foundAthing
Junior Member
PTR43-00083
If you are trying to order one I’d call who ever it may be from ahead of time to ensure they have it on hand. They are supposedly on back order to infinity and beyond right now.
Adoniram
New member
I did the DIY install. All parts from Cameltoe came out to around $320 with taxes and shipping, and included the air filter. The air filter was on back order for about 3 weeks, but everything arrived eventually...
Like others, I did not appreciate the fact that only two clamps were used. The fender side of the box would not clamp or close. The thickness of the rubber gasket is exactly the same as the OEM filter, but it is very stiff and impossible to compress. This makes the box unsealed as-is, and you can easily lift the fender side of the box open. Not good if you're cruising through dusty roads!!!
One individual (who must be an engineer or scientist) ordered two clamps from McMaster Carr. It's an elegant and effective solution, and I highly recommend it. However, if you're like me and you don't want to have to deal with yet another thing, try the MacGyver method:
You had extra clamps (don't know why, but I had 6 extra ones). Take two of those, and pry open the little nubs at the bottom, just a tad:
Now clamp OVER the nubs, and with another pair of pliers, bend the whole clamp tighter. You may find it better to bend back (straighter) near the nubs first, clamp high, and bend forward (tighter) on the main arc.
Now you should have something like this:
Guess what?? There's a small open gap under the lip of the lower box that the nubs can now fit into! And your custom-bent clamps will grab the top. Just keep adjusting the nubs and clamp until they grab firmly.
Front:
Back:
MUCH happier...
Like others, I did not appreciate the fact that only two clamps were used. The fender side of the box would not clamp or close. The thickness of the rubber gasket is exactly the same as the OEM filter, but it is very stiff and impossible to compress. This makes the box unsealed as-is, and you can easily lift the fender side of the box open. Not good if you're cruising through dusty roads!!!
One individual (who must be an engineer or scientist) ordered two clamps from McMaster Carr. It's an elegant and effective solution, and I highly recommend it. However, if you're like me and you don't want to have to deal with yet another thing, try the MacGyver method:
You had extra clamps (don't know why, but I had 6 extra ones). Take two of those, and pry open the little nubs at the bottom, just a tad:
Now clamp OVER the nubs, and with another pair of pliers, bend the whole clamp tighter. You may find it better to bend back (straighter) near the nubs first, clamp high, and bend forward (tighter) on the main arc.
Now you should have something like this:
Guess what?? There's a small open gap under the lip of the lower box that the nubs can now fit into! And your custom-bent clamps will grab the top. Just keep adjusting the nubs and clamp until they grab firmly.
Front:
Back:
MUCH happier...
Last edited:
boomkanani
New member
Sorry I meant I’m looking for the paper air filter
G X B
New member
When buying parts separately (2015 & up):
1. I have found good use for the elongated metal wire harness bracket. Installed it on top of engine as shown on Fig 3-1 of official install guide, then removed the plastic wire support clip from old intake manifold cover and pressed into the metal bracket’s slotted hole.
2. Instead of completely removing the resonator bracket I rotated it to provide support for the excess wire harness (ran zip tie thru threaded hole on top).
3. I tried multiple plugs from Lowe’s, part# 881202 was the best fit. The head is a bit too large but at least the surface pattern matches the intake housings’ and most importantly the ribbed body fits snug in the hole.
4. I cut the new vacuum hose to 20” length, it was hard to find a tie down location without pulling sideways on the 1/8” plastic nipple. About 21” hose length would have been better.
Install guide:
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/ins...0 4Runner-FJ Cruiser Cold Air Intake IssD.pdf
1. I have found good use for the elongated metal wire harness bracket. Installed it on top of engine as shown on Fig 3-1 of official install guide, then removed the plastic wire support clip from old intake manifold cover and pressed into the metal bracket’s slotted hole.
2. Instead of completely removing the resonator bracket I rotated it to provide support for the excess wire harness (ran zip tie thru threaded hole on top).
3. I tried multiple plugs from Lowe’s, part# 881202 was the best fit. The head is a bit too large but at least the surface pattern matches the intake housings’ and most importantly the ribbed body fits snug in the hole.
4. I cut the new vacuum hose to 20” length, it was hard to find a tie down location without pulling sideways on the 1/8” plastic nipple. About 21” hose length would have been better.
Install guide:
https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/ins...0 4Runner-FJ Cruiser Cold Air Intake IssD.pdf
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