How to inspect if your lower ball joints need to be replaced?

[Forrest97]

Im starting to hear a knock when making turns or going over a bump getting into my driveway. When it knocks it feels like it is directly under my feet.

So far I have only poked my head under to make sure it wasn't the sway bar or links I replaced about 2 months ago but thats about it.

Was it the best way to inspect this sort of noise and behavior? Any info and pics of areas to check is very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Forrest.

 

[JohnMc]

There's this:

But if you're a bit more shade tree, I'd rely both on a combination of preventative replacement (150K miles to be safe, whether it needs it or not) and checking for slack. Jack the front wheel off the ground using a jack near the end of the lower A-Arm - this takes the stress/weight bearing off the lower ball joint. Then grab the tire at 12 and 6 clock and give it some shakes, see if there's any perceptible slack at all. Then try at 9 and 3 o'clock as well, but that check is more for the steering (rack, tie rod ends).

Any squeaking when you turn the steering wheels is worth checking out immediately. Dry ball joints squeak, and die shortly afterward. Torn boots on a ball joint mean instant replacement as well.

And buy OEM parts counter replacements, not cheap eBay parts). I've seen some broken aftermarket ball joints that weren't the result of incorrect installation.

 

[Forrest97]

Thanks, this is great information.

Just from experience do you think the location of the feel and noise I am hearing is consistent with worn lower ball joints?

 

[JayRolla]

If your over 120k miles I would replace the ball joints with OEM's. My buddy has 150k, 33" tires with coilovers up front and just had his ball joint fail. Its always wise to do them about every 100k miles just to be safe.

 

[4eigner]

There's this:

Are the hub nuts the same thing as lug nuts?

and

How does one go about measuring 66 lbf of upward and downward force on these hub nuts?

 

[shootmymime]

Stick you pry bar in. Use a scale on the bottom of the bar then lift under the scale until it reads 66 ft lbs.

 

[3rzrunner]

Does the sound you hear come from tight turns into your drive way?
It could be your worn steering stops squeaking. Mine where doing that until I replaced them.

 

[Forrest97]

Does the sound you hear come from tight turns into your drive way?
It could be your worn steering stops squeaking. Mine where doing that until I replaced them.

I hear the noise other than sharp turns. Its a faint knock and can feel it right under my feet.

 

[Forrest97]

If your over 120k miles I would replace the ball joints with OEM's. My buddy has 150k, 33" tires with coilovers up front and just had his ball joint fail. Its always wise to do them about every 100k miles just to be safe.

I have 211K on it and Im not sure when they were last done. I have only had it a few months.

 

[LittleCaesar]

As JayRolla stated, OEM all the way. If you have to ask about them, replace them now.

 

[4eigner]

Stick you pry bar in. Use a scale on the bottom of the bar then lift under the scale until it reads 66 ft lbs.

Stick a pry bar in what?
My understanding is that it's a rotational force applied upwards and downwards of 66 lbf from the hub nuts. (Again, are the hub nuts the same as the lug nuts?)

edit: after reviewing the attachment again I think I've gained a better understanding of what's going on. They give a linear force of 294 Newtons applied directly at the hub nuts and in parentheses have rotational force in kgf & lbf. 294 N = 66.1 lbs; thus, 66 lbs of force applied up and down at the hub (lug?) nuts. The reason they have rotational force units in there is because linear up & down force applied at the nuts will generate a rotational force at the lbj.

 

[shootmymime]

I have 211K on it and Im not sure when they were last done. I have only had it a few months.

Stick a pry bar in what?
My understanding is that it's a rotational force applied upwards and downwards of 66 lbf from the hub nuts. (Again, are the hub nuts the same as the lug nuts?)

edit: after reviewing the attachment again I think I've gained a better understanding of what's going on. They give a linear force of 294 Newtons applied directly at the hub nuts and in parentheses have rotational force in kgf & lbf. 294 N = 66.1 lbs; thus, 66 lbs of force applied up and down at the hub (lug?) nuts. The reason they have rotational force units in there is because linear up & down force applied at the nuts will generate a rotational force at the lbj.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html#post1466791

 

[4eigner]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-ball-joint-write-up-thread.html#post1466791

Nice writeup. The attachment from the fsm in this thread would make a nice addition to it. For a more acurate measurement when checking for play I would think the wheel would have to come off, or be compensated for, when applying the upward and downward force on the hub nuts. For example, if the wheel stays on and weighs in at 61 lbs, then a downward force of only 5 lbs needs to be made to get a force of 66 lbs, but an upwards force of 127 lbs (66+61) needs to be made to overcome the weight of the wheel.

 

[Forrest97]

Any idea of what to expect time wise on a job like this? I plan on spraying down the bolts with penetrating oil the day before i start.

Nevermind... I just saw about 2 hours. Great write up.

 

[Forrest97]

Any recommendations of online places to get factory LBJ's? Just called local dealership and they want $125 each which seems pretty high.

 

[amalik]

Any recommendations of online places to get factory LBJ's? Just called local dealership and they want $125 each which seems pretty high.

Head over to Camelback Toyota. You are looking at about $85.96 per ball joint + shipping which shouldn't be more than $10. Give or take, that's about ~$180 compared to your price of $250+ shipping.

Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

Here's your part numbers:

Lower Ball Joint (Driver Side) 43340-39465
Lower Ball Joint (Passenger Side) 43330-39585

Also keep in mind you need new bolts:

Lower Ball Joint Bolts: 90080-10066

 

[Forrest97]

I was able to get under the truck and dig some more and found that the passenger side sway bar link had failed and busted loose. The lower bolt nut was completely off and it was hitting against the lower control arm causing the knocking/clunking noise.

I just replaced these a few months ago and the other side is fine so I don't know if it was a faulty part of the cause of something else.

I also inspected the LBJ's for slack and boot wear they look good. The driver side UBJ looks good but the passenger side UBJ boot is a little worn so maybe it is failing causing that side sway bar link to fail as well.

 

[MosesByxbe]

Mine had been making noise on the driver side and I crawled under to take a look. Grease caked around driver side LBJ and not on passenger side. There's my answer without having to jack the truck up. Replacing this weekend.

 

[Shibby!]

I hear the noise other than sharp turns. Its a faint knock and can feel it right under my feet.

Glad you added this info because I WAS going to suggest greasing your steering stops. If it's only under sharp turns and sounds like a bound spring letting go this could would the problem. The metal binds then let's go making an awful banging noise.

This reminds me I just heard it the other day and need to lube mine.

Once again. This is NOT your problem but added info for those who only get this noise while turning and hitting a bump (driveway).