How to install new CV Axles

Thanks to this thread I replaced my leaking passenger side CV today. I've done one in a 3rd Generation but never in a 4th Gen. Pretty much the same except for the sway bar link location. My best friend was a three foot crowbar. I put the bar on the rim of the CV and with a couple of taps with a four pound sledge hammer, the axle fell out. I used the same crowbar to "bump" the new axle in. All in all about 45 minutes start to finish. No leaks so far. The CV came from O'reilly's for $54 plus core with a lifetime warranty. It's amazing how much cash I save reading this forum. Thanks to all.

JR
 
Actually the 4th Gen is 217 ft-lbs per the '04 FSM. Both documents state 217.

Versus going the re-manufactured CV axle (Cardone, NAPA) route I opted to rebuild my axles with the kit from Toyota which includes boots, rings, snap rings and grease. At $45 per kit I figure I can't go wrong: Amazon.com: OES Genuine CV Boot Kit: Automotive

However now looking over the FSM I'm wondering how crucial it is when performing the axle rebuild to mark components prior to disassembly? Steps 12a and 12d note this in:
http://im.toyota-4runner.org/attach...tall-new-cv-axles-30-18-cv-repair-w040001.pdf

Also I found when re-inserting the axle I would pull out and rotate a few times after which the axle went right in with ease by hand. I was honestly surprised how easy it went in as most here stated they had to hammer it back into place...

Looking back and I think I would only change the steering knuckle seals and leave the inner differential seals alone as they appeared to be fine and were a bear to both remove and install. Here's to hoping they hold oil
Currently I'm waiting on my other steering knuckle oil seal, as they only had one in stock, to finish the job.
 
Also I found when re-inserting the axle I would pull out and rotate a few times after which the axle went right in with ease by hand. I was honestly surprised how easy it went in as most here stated they had to hammer it back into place...

Interesting. By rotating, did you have the inner shaft end mated to the splines in the diff, or did you rotate the axle "in the air" and the try to re-insert? I ask because supposedly that ring on the inner shaft is supposed to pop into some kind of channel (or past a flange) to "lock in" the CV axle/ I know the tech write-ups stated that the best position is to have the opening on that ring facing down when re-installing. You make it sound like there is some sort of key-way for that ring, allowing the easy install. Just curious and looking for some clarification....
 
I initially tried eye balling it to get the splines lined up with no success, so I just pulled it out every so slightly rotated it just a little and pushed it back in. I figured the first part of the splines had to line up eventually. I repeated this a couple times until it went right in.
I'm thinking of pulling it back out and trying it again just to see how it goes...
 
Interesting. By rotating, did you have the inner shaft end mated to the splines in the diff, or did you rotate the axle "in the air" and the try to re-insert? I ask because supposedly that ring on the inner shaft is supposed to pop into some kind of channel (or past a flange) to "lock in" the CV axle/ I know the tech write-ups stated that the best position is to have the opening on that ring facing down when re-installing. You make it sound like there is some sort of key-way for that ring, allowing the easy install. Just curious and looking for some clarification....

Steering knuckle oil seal came in so I was able to finish the job and install my 2nd CV axle. Same scenario this time as well; inserted the axle with the clip opening facing upward and pulled in out turned ever so slightly and inserted it back a couple of times and it went in super easy. From there it clearly is not coming back out as there is little/no play once it was fully inserted into place.

I should note with the Toyota CV boot rebuild kit there is a new snap ring/clip included which I installed.

Going 2 days now and no signs of leaks on either side.
 
Steering knuckle oil seal came in so I was able to finish the job and install my 2nd CV axle. Same scenario this time as well; inserted the axle with the clip opening facing upward and pulled in out turned ever so slightly and inserted it back a couple of times and it went in super easy. From there it clearly is not coming back out as there is little/no play once it was fully inserted into place.



I should note with the Toyota CV boot rebuild kit there is a new snap ring/clip included which I installed.



Going 2 days now and no signs of leaks on either side.


How long did re-booting take? I need to re-boot one of mine but am really short on time and don't want to pay a shop to do it.
 
It's really a quick job. Just messy. I say quick if you know what you're doing. Find a good tutorial and in my opinion, use steel zip ties or hose clamps. It was hard for me to find proper cv boot clamps and then even harder to feel I got them secure enough.
 
Successful cv axle replacement today. I avoided it for 2 months because I didn't know whether I needed a 35 or 36mm socket. I bought a 36 but needed a 35. So I used the 36.

Pretty simple task. Luckily the diff plugs came out easy because I forgot to remove them before I pulled the axle.
 
It's a messy job for sure, but relatively easy. After watching EricTheCarGuy do it I honestly had no reason not to do it myself...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0

Ha! Nice. I just watched that about 30 minutes ago. Finally got both of my axles replaced and figured I'd keep the old ones and reboot to have spares.

Seems easy. Judging by the grease that came all out on my one axle with the torn boot, messy for sure. MY other axle boots were still intact but noticeably dry and cracking.

Re: driving on the knuckle seals. I wound up making a "seal driver" out of a piece of 2x4. Made it fit nicely onto the inner lip of the seal and just tap, tap, tap it in with a hammer. BTW, thanks to Steamdonkey, I returned the OEM's (expensive) and got Nationals from Rock Auto. 1 of them even has the Toyota part number stamped on it...


[MENTION=55249]message[/MENTION]: What boot kit did you get? Did it come with the grease or did you source that separately?
 
Ha! Nice. I just watched that about 30 minutes ago. Finally got both of my axles replaced and figured I'd keep the old ones and reboot to have spares.

Seems easy. Judging by the grease that came all out on my one axle with the torn boot, messy for sure. MY other axle boots were still intact but noticeably dry and cracking.

Re: driving on the knuckle seals. I wound up making a "seal driver" out of a piece of 2x4. Made it fit nicely onto the inner lip of the seal and just tap, tap, tap it in with a hammer. BTW, thanks to Steamdonkey, I returned the OEM's (expensive) and got Nationals from Rock Auto. 1 of them even has the Toyota part number stamped on it...


[MENTION=55249]message[/MENTION]: What boot kit did you get? Did it come with the grease or did you source that separately?

I was going to order them off amazon as noted in my previous post however my local Toyota dealer had them in stock for the same price.
 
FJ Cruiser CV Axle removal and installation video

Stumbled on this very good video on YouTube. "FJ Cruiser Drive Shaft (half shaft) Replacement" posted by "Last Great Road Trip".

I liked the "Eric the Car Guy" video, but this one is more specific to the FJ Cruiser and 4Runner. He makes it look so easy...too easy...and he does it with hand tools outdoors.
 
Stumbled on this very good video on YouTube. "FJ Cruiser Drive Shaft (half shaft) Replacement" posted by "Last Great Road Trip".

I liked the "Eric the Car Guy" video, but this one is more specific to the FJ Cruiser and 4Runner. He makes it look so easy...too easy...and he does it with hand tools outdoors.

thx for the link. A comment I had about it was their technique of using the axle itself as a striking tool for the install. But, I realize this seemed aimed as a method for a trail repair so maybe that was a compromise to keep people from being under the truck where maybe jack stands might not be used?? (Hi-lift??)
 
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Perhaps you all have figured this out, but I had a frozen axle nut I've been wrestling with for a few weeks.

I bought as Bernzomatic MAP pro unit at Home Depot ($49), heated the snots out of the nut and was able to free it with a 24" breaker bar (tire was on the ground, partially on the jack).

It was still frozen after quite a few minutes of heat, so I kept going and it eventually gave it up.

Anyway, hope this helps someone down the line.
 
I just did mine, I saw some people mention the Kobalt chorded impact, so glad I bought it.

PS If anyone in the tri-state needs the seals for the diff I have two pairs left, ordered a few just in case.
 
2StepsAhead, How did the Kobalt do on the lug nuts and also the axle nut and caliper bolts?

I bought a DeWalt impact and it struggles with lug nuts..

Thanks for any feedback you can offer on the Kobalt.
 
However now looking over the FSM I'm wondering how crucial it is when performing the axle rebuild to mark components prior to disassembly? Steps 12a and 12d note this in:
http://im.toyota-4runner.org/attach...tall-new-cv-axles-30-18-cv-repair-w040001.pdf

To answer my own question after putting on a couple thousand miles on since the CV axle rebuild I would say that marking of components for exact re-assembly is not that critical.
1. I figure if this were critical I would have noticed some abnormal noise/howling from the axles when cruising the interstate here at 75mph.
2. Does anyone honestly think a re-manufactured CV axle had each component marked and re-assembled as original from the factory?
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Hey guys, both my outer boots are leaking on the smaller inner part pretty badly now. Does anyone sell reman'd oem axles? If not what's a good alternative? Thanks in advance.
 

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