How to install new CV Axles

[riverwolf]

so.. the knuckle side seal.. Toyota label as "oil" seal but there is no oil in the knuckle is there..?? It's just to stop dirt, actually like water from getting in the hub and soaking the bearing right?

And did anyone need to remove the brake caliper? Not sure if the movement needed will stress the brake hoses?

Combined with the instructions posted at the start of this thread, the video should give you a good idea of what to expect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BawuxQHhTGs

Write-ups and videos from 3rd/4th/5th Gen 4Runners, FJs, and GXs are all applicable as the layout is virtually identical.

BTW, at 128,000 miles, I didn't bother with any seals...just swapped in a new NAPA (Cardone) axle.

I saved my OE axle to eventually reboot, but that's a messy job. Replacing with a new axles is less work than rebooting since the reboot requires the same remove/install labor + the additional labor/mess of the reboot.

-Brent

 

[riverwolf]

1) the C-clip and the opening, why does it matter which way it faces? Is there a catch inside the diff for the clip opening? The splines are straight. what is the purpose of the C-clip?

With the opening facing down, you're working with gravity. It's called a C-clip, not a snap ring, so it's probably not quite a perfect circle. Opening down, the wider part of the "C" drops down into the groove in the axle so there's less resistance when inserting. The narrower part of the C on the opening side will extend from the groove less than the back/closed side of the C would if you faced the opening up.

I don't know if it's mentioned in any of the write-ups or videos, but I supported the hub end of the axle with a bungie while removing and inserting. It's just an extra set of hands to keep the CV joints and axle straight while you line everything up. A couple of love taps with a long pry bar in the appropriate slots on the diff side CV housing and job done.

Don't overthink it...I tend to as well. Keep in mind that since this is a swap that's doable on trail...should be a piece of cake when planned in advance in your garage/driveway. The hardest part for me was the removal b/c I started by trying the sling hammer solution from another forum. Should have just stuck with the tried-and-true "remove skid\pry bar at axle-diff joint". Instead, got my sling in the wrong place and completely separated the shaft from the inner joint/cage. Oops!

-Brent

 

[bob3dsf]

so.. the knuckle side seal.. Toyota label as "oil" seal but there is no oil in the knuckle is there..?? It's just to stop dirt, actually like water from getting in the hub and soaking the bearing right?

And did anyone need to remove the brake caliper? Not sure if the movement needed will stress the brake hoses?

No you don't need to remove the caliper (but you can if you want to). I didn't. You can remove one side of the sway bar end link to get a little more range of motion to get the steering knuckle out of the way. Just make sure to tie the knuckle out of the way so there in no stress on the brake line (removing the caliper would, however, let move the knuckle about anywhere you want and not worry about breaking the brake line).

 

[bob3dsf]

I don't know if it's mentioned in any of the write-ups or videos, but I supported the hub end of the axle with a bungie while removing and inserting. It's just an extra set of hands to keep the CV joints and axle straight while you line everything up. A couple of love taps with a long pry bar in the appropriate slots on the diff side CV housing and job done.

Absolutely. I remember somehow getting the drivers side in all by myself, but was having trouble with the passenger side. I had my wife help hold the outer end so the whole thing was basically horizontal... It virtually slipped right in.

BTW, there is a YT video of the process being done on an FJC in "trail conditions," they got it in by holding the whole outer end and using the axle itself to push the inner shaft in place. I wrote a comment asking about that (wondering if you could damage the Y-shaped bearing assembly inside the inner housing by using this method). The reply seemed to indicate that there isn't as much force being applied as what the video makes it appear. The term used was "nudge" I think.... In any case, the guy looks to get it in pretty easily.

Per fdbryne's comment earlier: I used a 2" PVC piece as well. Worked great as a seal driver. If you look at the FSM procedure, you'd see an drawing of the use of an SST tool to drive on the seal. its essentially the same thing, but the SST (just an expensive seal driver) is only different in that it's (probably) metal, and has a handle on one end that can be struck with a hammer. The key for doing it right is note how far in the original was (to avoid leaks) and try to tap it in straight and flush. Letting it go in at an angle will get it jammed. I like the idea of putting it in the freezer. I'll have to remember that when I have to do it again ( in a long time hopefully).

 

[GX4X4]

That video is very good, I was wondering should I attempt to pry bar the axle out like that, the guy make it look like so easy, but I think the dust shield will be toasted if I do that.
Still the best way is to hammer at the slots?

Also, got a couple of estimates from independent mechanics, I think they both use alldata, but coming back with 4-5 hours labor. Since the labor is maybe $100 / hr, it's about 450 for the axles and $600 if including wheel seal replacement. Labor only I supply the parts. The seal suddenly adds an hour, if they work as slow as us, I think they would be out of business. I had to told one guy not to look at the alldata, as you don't need to remove the hub etc.

I am thinking maybe get a quote from the dealer too just for reference. As the indy mechanic do not want to warranty any leaks unless I got the parts through them.

Still considering to tackle this myself but have been very short on time lately, and installing seals always intimidates me..

 

[fdbyrne]

I have tried to use a slide hammer and a pry bar to separate the axle from the hub and neither worked well for me. I always remove the skid plate to get full access to the inboard side of the axle, put a very LARGE flathead screwdriver on the sturdy lip of the axle and give it a few taps with a 3lb sledge. It comes right off.

The sledge will cost you about $10 at Harbor Freight. The big freakin screwdriver will cost another $5 and both are things that you'll need to have around for projects like this.

I use the claw side of a standard hammer to pull out the old seal. I wrap the claw side of the hammer in electrical or duct tape to keep it from scratching the inside of the differential.

 

[IanB]

I used these instructions to change both front axles on our '04 Lexus GX470, and they were excellent! OEM axles have nice indents to stick a tool and hammer on, aftermarket replacements do not. Hopefully they last and I won't be the one that has to remove them some day, lol. Thanks for the great DIY!

 

[GX4X4]

Did you guys do the drain and refill of the front diff, or just let whatever come out of the axle and refill?

Which fluid do you guys recommend? I think it is GL5 85W90 or something like that.

The plugs do have crush gasket that needs to be replaced, right?

 

[LS2Cobra]

I think official recommendation is to drain the diff.

Last time I did it, however, I wanted to see if I really needed to drain to cleanly swap a CV.

I jacked up whichever side I was working as high as I could, propped it with a jack-stand at the frame, and pulled the CV. No oil spilled.

If you're using a lift and the truck is level, you'll need to drain.

 

[xcvbgch]

I'll buy the your stock ones that you replaced. PM me and let me know

 

[IanB]

I think official recommendation is to drain the diff.

Last time I did it, however, I wanted to see if I really needed to drain to cleanly swap a CV.

I jacked up whichever side I was working as high as I could, propped it with a jack-stand at the frame, and pulled the CV. No oil spilled.

If you're using a lift and the truck is level, you'll need to drain.

I assume you checked the fluid level once the truck was level again? I'm really surprised to hear you were able to jack one side up far enough that no fluid came out, makes me wonder if your level was low to start?

 

[fdbyrne]

I've never drained the differential when I did any of mine because my fluid was always fresh. With fluid at the proper level I do get some fluid even with one side raised significantly. I just top it off after I'm done.

 

[LS2Cobra]

I assume you checked the fluid level once the truck was level again? I'm really surprised to hear you were able to jack one side up far enough that no fluid came out, makes me wonder if your level was low to start?

I did. Checked it before and after.

I've only had my truck about a year and it was a driveway-queen before that. It's an '03 that had only 34k miles on it when I bought it in 2014. SO, not long after I started using the truck on a daily basis both outer CV boots completely split. Made for a nice anti-corrosion coating for both wheel wells. I had swapped the oil in the diffs and t-case immediately after it came home so I didn't want to dump a batch of perfectly good, new oil.

The front diff doesn't hold all that much oil anyways and when you jack her up, all that oil just flows down into the axle tube on the other side. As long as your seals are functioning and it doesn't puke out the other side, you're good to go.

But you're right, I did jack it up quite high.

 

[GX4X4]

Is there enough space on your truck to do the fill without a jack?
I don't even think a little overfilling is a problem for the diffs.

Now I found a guy who comes to your house with a trailer full of tools, he would do it for $150 for 3 hours of work, that's 1/3 the price of going to a shop. I am going to help too at least clean out the wheel well and help swing out the rotor for him.

 

[montana_jeepn]

So does anyone have a complete list of required part#s to do it "right"?

1. Factory Axle 43430-60060 or 43430-60061 (don't think it matters)
2. Differential Seals xxxxx-xxxxx

Anything else?


Do the diff bearings ever go bad? i am planning on hiring this done so i want to replace anything that needs it while it is apart.

Thanks!

 

[GX4X4]

90311-47012. diff seal
90311-47013 diff seal other side
43430-60061 axle x2
90316-A0001 hub seal x2

Front Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Front Differential Drain Gasket 90430-24003

Shop will probably want to add another hour for the hub seal as that is what the computer tell them, a good mechanic should understand this is what is needed to get everything right

 

[montana_jeepn]

90311-47012. diff seal
90311-47013 diff seal other side
43430-60061 axle x2
90316-A0001 hub seal x2

Front Differential Fill Gasket 12157-10010
Front Differential Drain Gasket 90430-24003

Shop will probably want to add another hour for the hub seal as that is what the computer tell them, a good mechanic should understand this is what is needed to get everything right

Thank you very much! Do I still need the hub seal if I am using a new set of pre-assembled hubs from Kevin in NJ?

 

[GX4X4]

Thank you very much! Do I still need the hub seal if I am using a new set of pre-assembled hubs from Kevin in NJ?

I am new to these trucks but I know what hubs you are talking about (I plan to buy it too when the time comes), the new hubs bolts onto the steering knuckle via 4 bolts from outboard side,
the hub seal we are talking about is on the inboard side and the axle poke through the seal into the knuckle and hub.

So I don't think his come with these seals.
The reason some have to replace these hub seals is because sometimes they come off with the axles or are just plain deteriorated, or scratched up during the axle replacement. They stop water and dirt from going in and protect the sealed bearing in the hub assembly. (sealed bearing would still crap out earlier if it is sitting inside water)

So the bolt on hub is a separate repair to the axle job, unless you know your wheel bearings are bad (I think you will have a chance to spin them when the axle is out, should be relatively smooth) I don't know how often the hub bearings goes out on average, in general I would think Toyota put bearings that can go towards 200K miles before it start making noise and warrant replacement but these are trucks and some may see more water crossing and dirt.

Someone please correct me if I got the anatomy of these jobs wrong.

 

[GX4X4]

I was reading a factory manual procedure on how to remove the knuckle for a bearing replacement, those 2 bolts that goes from the bottom up with the 19mm head, they are 166 ft lbs, didn't know they have such high torque, can anyone confirm.

Does your steering not turn to the side when you torque this part?

 

[strathcona]

I just did this on the weekend. Yes the torque is 166 Ft/lbs.
Just turn the assembly to full turn and apply the torque, the steering stops will only allow it to go so far.