How to install new CV Axles
- Thread starter settytb
- Start date
I thought they were 118 ft lb, but it might depend on the model year in the service manual.
There is no mention of red loctite on those bolts in the service manual. I used it on mine because a few people recommended it on here, but now that I might have to take it apart again in the near future, I'm regretting that. Red loctite requires heat greater than 550F to remove. That's really hot, and even if you are just heating the bolt, the whole piece will get really hot. It probably requires a torch to heat the bolt (I don't know if a heat gun would do it).
The specified torque should be enough to hold those bolts. If you are worried about it, removable blue loctite would add some additional security. I recommend improved blue loctite:
"Loctite 243 Primerless, Oil Tolerant, Removable Medium Strength Blue Threadlocker"
Compared to regular 242 blue loctite, it works better on a wider range of metals without primer and it works on oily surfaces.
They are important bolts because if they fall out the wheel will end up pointing sideways, or something like that.
Red Loctite on those bolts doesn't require heat to remove. I've done it dozens of times. A little torque on a long wrench or breaker bar and they come loose like any other bolt. The Loctite just keeps them from vibrating loose which would be really bad.
On my 2004 the torque spec was lower. It was around 118 lbs like you said. I don't have the info with me at work.
On my 2004 the torque spec was lower. It was around 118 lbs like you said. I don't have the info with me at work.
strathcona
New member
That torque value is what's listed in the 03 FSM from this site.
Though as you are aware, there are two different torques listed for the axle hub nut in that FSM.
Though as you are aware, there are two different torques listed for the axle hub nut in that FSM.
Do you think it is OK to drive until it is clicking while turning before replacing the axle completely.
I plan to seal back up with FIPG the boot somehow before it sees rain and drive it another 10k miles, since the other side axle still works fine, and I don't really care about salvaging the axle for spare anymore.
I plan to seal back up with FIPG the boot somehow before it sees rain and drive it another 10k miles, since the other side axle still works fine, and I don't really care about salvaging the axle for spare anymore.
I mean no disrespect, but you should probably just go ahead and take care of this. It's not an expensive or a difficult fix. It's really not worth trying to jerry-rig something to keep your truck on the road. You've been thinking about doing it for a few weeks. You'll feel better when it's fixed.
You are right I probably want to get this fixed instead of worrying this winter.
Will report back on the installation
Tighten as much as you can, put wheel on without center cap. Torque, take wheel back off, finish up. Although Im trying to remember if it even spun, I think if you lock the center diff you might be OK. I really cant remember though.
And yes a cotter pin is a cotter pin. Anyone one of the correct size will work.
nj636
Banned
The seal you are asking about is what I call the cv dust seal. It is on the cv side of the spindle and prevents the outside elements into the spindle cavity & into the wheel bearing.
National part # 710573. Local parts stores sell them for around $18, I have them for $12.50 each.
I just put the brake assembly back together and have the wife step on the brakes while I torque the axle nut.
Only if the other side wheel is on the ground, too.
MPLS88
New member
Hi everyone,
This thread is great, and has inspired me to replace my driver side CV driveshaft. I plan to do the passenger another time, but hopefully soon.
Anyway, to me it looks like some of you are finding reman shafts from Toyota dealerships. Is this correct? I can't locate one at any dealership near me, and it sounds like they can't get remans. The best price new I got was $486.xx!
I am thinking I may have to go to Napa. It sounds like the Napa parts are hit or miss.
Any suggestions on how to make sure to get a quality part?
My driver boot is leaking, but I am more concerned about my driver side oil seal which seems to be throwing oil out. If I am going to fix it I might as well replace the whole set up!
Thanks!!!
This thread is great, and has inspired me to replace my driver side CV driveshaft. I plan to do the passenger another time, but hopefully soon.
Anyway, to me it looks like some of you are finding reman shafts from Toyota dealerships. Is this correct? I can't locate one at any dealership near me, and it sounds like they can't get remans. The best price new I got was $486.xx!
I am thinking I may have to go to Napa. It sounds like the Napa parts are hit or miss.
Any suggestions on how to make sure to get a quality part?
My driver boot is leaking, but I am more concerned about my driver side oil seal which seems to be throwing oil out. If I am going to fix it I might as well replace the whole set up!
Thanks!!!
I ordered mine from partznet with $20 shipping
They have a 10% code when you give your email address
It might still be shocking but I paid about $700 for the pair.
Since they last 10 years or so, your cost of owner ship is only $70 a year
Tires cost about the same or more than that every 5 years
I will probably reboot the current axles as spares to put back for next time though
MPLS88
New member
Thanks to this awesome thread I was able to complete my driver's side CV drive shaft tonight. It had been leaking from the oil seal at the diff.
I only had the truck for a little over 2 weeks, so I am working through some things I missed when buying it (leaking xreas, and bad diff seal)... and the wife isn't pleased... so lets hope this is it for a while! (knocking on wood)
My t4r is a 2006 sport edition v8 with about 60k on it.
Whelp... this is likely why I had the leak! Apparently someone has been in this CV axle before. After I finally got the axle out this is what I saw:
Also can someone please please please tell me this driver side Napa Maxdrive CV axle looks seated properly!?!?
I spent a ton of time getting it in there, and I am pretty sure I had my new OEM Toyota oil seal properly placed, but it wanted to stop where it was. I have only had a chance to drive it a few miles but nothing is leaking so far! Although I hope I have enough gear oil in there. It was 11:30pm and I couldn't get the diff fill open for the life of me. That is another project I guess. I really didn't seem to loose hardly any fluid when doing this replacement though, but I know I have lost some from the previous leak.
I only had the truck for a little over 2 weeks, so I am working through some things I missed when buying it (leaking xreas, and bad diff seal)... and the wife isn't pleased... so lets hope this is it for a while! (knocking on wood)
My t4r is a 2006 sport edition v8 with about 60k on it.
Whelp... this is likely why I had the leak! Apparently someone has been in this CV axle before. After I finally got the axle out this is what I saw:
Also can someone please please please tell me this driver side Napa Maxdrive CV axle looks seated properly!?!?
I spent a ton of time getting it in there, and I am pretty sure I had my new OEM Toyota oil seal properly placed, but it wanted to stop where it was. I have only had a chance to drive it a few miles but nothing is leaking so far! Although I hope I have enough gear oil in there. It was 11:30pm and I couldn't get the diff fill open for the life of me. That is another project I guess. I really didn't seem to loose hardly any fluid when doing this replacement though, but I know I have lost some from the previous leak.
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Wow. That sealer crap on the differential seal is really odd. Why would you go to the trouble of pulling the shaft and putting crap on the seal when you could have just replaced the seal in 10 minutes for less than $10? All of the actual work is in removing the axle and they obviously went at least that far. I'm from the Ozarks and am used to 'redneck engineering' but that's just dumb.
Also, yes, the axle looks seated properly.
Also, yes, the axle looks seated properly.
MPLS88
New member
Yeah... I really can't figure it out. To do ALL of that just to put some weird sealant on there. After doing the work myself, I can't imagine going through all of that and not just put a new seal in there! Maybe they didn't know about replacing the seal???
And thank you. I was pretty sure the it was seated right. Still not leaks on day two. But seeing that "gap" just made me nervous even still! I was dreading going back in there.
Thanks! I couldn't believe it, there were two sport V8s that popped up within 500 miles with under 65k on them. I missed out on one and ended up with this one.
I just can't believe they went through all that trouble to hide it! This is the first time I have done this repair, and I wouldn't be able to let myself do that much work just to hide it and not fix it! That thing was a PITA to get replaced!
