nuclearsteel
New member
Thank you! I will disassemble tomorrow and take some measurements and post updates.
How to install new CV Axles
- Thread starter settytb
- Start date
nuclearsteel
New member
I measured 1.850" to 1.852" and the finish looks pristine. I am thinking that the diameter of the reman axle is not the issue.
I did change the seal. It was a bit of a bugger to get the old seal out but a few minute with a seal remover and pry bar and it let go. The old seal wasn't torn that I could see but the rubber didn't have the rebound that it should and seemed a bit worn...after 8 years what do you expect.
I ended up using a 2" pvc coupler / cap to drive the new seal in. My seal measured about 0.185" from the lip so I drove it in with the pvc coupler and a small hammer until I got it close (measured with a depth gauge). For good measure I replaced the dust cap that seats on the CV axle and protects the above mentioned seal. My old dust cap got a bit bent during removal and was rusted badly. Just used some punches that fit and gently tapped it on.
Using some MP grease around the splines and locking ring that goes into the differential makes life a lot easier when reinstalling the cv axle. I added some Mobile 1 Gear Oil and took her for a few mile drive. No leaks yet!
I think that most people have problems installing the new seal...even with a proper sized driver (OK or pvc ring) you have to work your way around gentle tapping to ensure it seats square and I also believe that setting it about 0.185" from the lip is key.
Thanks for all the help guys!
I did change the seal. It was a bit of a bugger to get the old seal out but a few minute with a seal remover and pry bar and it let go. The old seal wasn't torn that I could see but the rubber didn't have the rebound that it should and seemed a bit worn...after 8 years what do you expect.
I ended up using a 2" pvc coupler / cap to drive the new seal in. My seal measured about 0.185" from the lip so I drove it in with the pvc coupler and a small hammer until I got it close (measured with a depth gauge). For good measure I replaced the dust cap that seats on the CV axle and protects the above mentioned seal. My old dust cap got a bit bent during removal and was rusted badly. Just used some punches that fit and gently tapped it on.
Using some MP grease around the splines and locking ring that goes into the differential makes life a lot easier when reinstalling the cv axle. I added some Mobile 1 Gear Oil and took her for a few mile drive. No leaks yet!
I think that most people have problems installing the new seal...even with a proper sized driver (OK or pvc ring) you have to work your way around gentle tapping to ensure it seats square and I also believe that setting it about 0.185" from the lip is key.
Thanks for all the help guys!
nuclearsteel
New member
Are you talking about the "outboard" inner and outer seals for the steering knuckle (keeps the shit out of the hub bearing) or the "inboard" seal and dust shield for the differential? I didn't replace the outboard seals as they seemed fine. I did replace the inboard seal and dust shield is that what you are looking for?
I have a new OEM steering knuckle seal (part that presses in the knuckle) if anyone wants to make me a offer!
nuclearsteel
New member
Great point...the first time I did this and didn't change the differential seal I bet it took me 3 hours for the one side. Then I realized the seal was leaking...the second go around I would say with replacing the seal it took me about 45 minutes.
Silver4RunnerIS300
Member
So my inner boots have been busted open for a while now and I just took the axle out. The grease on the inner side was very white and there was not much grease inside... most of it came out of the boot and from my neglect I kept driving with it like that for about 10k. Should i replace the axle due to the wear the inner joint probably sustained during this time? or should i just repack it and reinstall with new boots?
Here's a pic
Here's a pic
eaglesfish
New member
I think the answer depends on mileage, whether you were having any issues/noises with the joint, how bad the boot tear was, driving conditions, and how long it has been this way. I can tell you from my experience, reman cv axles can be worse than your own OEM axles. Best option is buy new cv axles, but it a cost/risk decision. Rebuilding your self takes time to do properly. I would buy new or rebuild, but test and inspect your existing cv axle bearings after cleaning.
nuclearsteel
New member
I have to disagree and rather strongly. Find someone that sells quality reman OEM axles. If they are inspected and reconditioned properly this is the way to go.
NAPA has fine reman axles and my local Toyota Dealships had the same reman axles as NAPA (some company) for 2x the price. If you want to be same get a good of micrometers and check the dimensions vs new and also check the spines and threads. For the price of a decent reman it's not worth the cost to repack and replace the boots, especially when replacing other misc. hardware.
eaglesfish
New member
If you are willing to use an aftermarket cv axle, then new is definitely the way to go. There is not much price different. NAPA in my area sells new for $81 (no core) and $62 for reman (after core). For $19 you don't have to worry about how good the rebuild was only to find out at home or the road it is worse than the originals you just pulled out!
07V8
Member
They are not the same. There are numerous reports of snapped new Napa CVs.
eaglesfish
New member
Lots of reports on bad reman axles too. NAPA new and reman cv axles are both by Cardone, but sold as Napa Maxdrive. Warranty for new is lifetime and reman is only 3yr/36k miles.
gshadow325
New member
I look at it like this.
-reman: they were old ones that had worn boots and maybe worn internals, you don't know. But highly they were. Now they have new grease and new boots. Nice and clean.
-new from China that's only 1/3 - 1/4 the price of new factory ones? Too good to be true? Probably. They have to be made with lesser materials and lesser quality. Pick up your old oem ones and compare them to the new ones. There has to be a weight difference.
-these Toyota 4 runners don't ask for much in terms of maintenance. They only give you what you put into it. Why not treat it to factory parts? It served or will serve you for many more years to come. Yes factory axles are 300 bucks a pop, but they will last you 150,000 miles. At least mine did before I replaced them with new old stock oem axles. I couldn't have been happier.
When does my 4 runner ask for parts in the last 40k? I owned her since 163k till today it's at 203k. She only broke down and wanted a alternator, all the other stuff I wanted to do it, lift, rack, wheeling, scratches, pulling a 7000# car and trailer for 1000s of miles with no complaints. When she was leaking a little at the boots for me, she got what she originally came with.
That's just my take on it, I plan on getting another 100k of trouble free miles out of it.
We're not starting another oem vs aftermarket debate again.
Really, who gives a shit? Blow your money, I sure as hell don't care. But when I can buy a reman for $60 and it comes with a lifetime warranty, screw oem.
I have 3 hard years on my reman Cardone HD without issue, we'll see how the duralast reman last, but I really don't care cause if they break they will replace them no questions asked.
Really, who gives a shit? Blow your money, I sure as hell don't care. But when I can buy a reman for $60 and it comes with a lifetime warranty, screw oem.
I have 3 hard years on my reman Cardone HD without issue, we'll see how the duralast reman last, but I really don't care cause if they break they will replace them no questions asked.
My originals went bad and were clicking like you hear on a front wheel drive car. The one aftermarket one I bought I suspected had issues from the beginning, but I broke the shaft right where it comes out of the joint at the differential. Sheared it clean in two. My replacement had been fine as well as the other side I replaced the original with.
nuclearsteel
New member
Usually the Boots go tear from dry rot, lifts, or hazards...after that the balls go bad but that takes awhile. The only way I have seen them fail catastrophically is from off-roading.
nuclearsteel
New member
I couldn't agree more! T-Man is right on. Most people don't realize how few and simple parts are in these. I may be scared of aftermarket splines, threads, quality of metal or heat-treating, and dimensions. As for Reman...as long as they are OEM stubs and rebuilt SKF, TIMKIN, or other rep bearing manufactures and they check wear areas (seals) for dimension specs they are FINE and if you insist on buying new OEM please PM as I would like to help you wast...or spend your money.
