How to: Installing 3rd gen spark plugs

[Gary816]

I just bought a 98 T4R 3.4 5 speed last Friday to go with my 01 Tacoma DC 4x4 TRD.

The guy said it could use a tune up and had already bought 6 plugs.

It actually seems to run fine to me. Every once and awhile might get a little sputter under heaver acceleration but NO Check Engine Light...

The plugs he bought but didn't install are NGK BKR5E-11

After reading this I'm thinking I shouldn't use them...

Yes or No? Thanks

 

[zcruiser]

I just bought a 98 T4R 3.4 5 speed last Friday to go with my 01 Tacoma DC 4x4 TRD.

The guy said it could use a tune up and had already bought 6 plugs.

It actually seems to run fine to me. Every once and awhile might get a little sputter under heaver acceleration but NO Check Engine Light...

The plugs he bought but didn't install are NGK BKR5E-11

After reading this I'm thinking I shouldn't use them...

Yes or No? Thanks

Per the first post, use these: BKR5EKB-11

I don't know what BKR5E-11 is, I'm sure you could research.

 

[Gary816]

Per the first post, use these: BKR5EKB-11

I don't know what BKR5E-11 is, I'm sure you could research.

I looked it up the difference is the ones I have are single spark vs Dual... I read some more on here and will be getting some dual NGK BKR5EKB-11

Thanks

 

[eanema]

You'll definitely want the dual electrode plugs.

The 3rd gen t4rs use a waste spark system, so each spark plug fires twice per engine rotation. That means double the electrode wear, but if we double the number of electrodes we should get roughly the same wear as a single electrode plug in a non-wasting system.

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[oneonth3run]

About to give the plugs and wires a go tomorrow on my '01 @ 180k mi. After a little toying around today it seems the air intake is not wanting to let loose at the throttle body (released all the wire clips), any tips on getting it loose or just brute force it by hand?

Thanks!

 

[oneonth3run]

Follow up: Was able to finally remove everything to get at the plugs easily, just took a little extra elbow grease I replaced the wires and all the plugs except one...when I turned the #4 plug to remove it, it gave me a grinding feeling and sound, when I turned it back right I got the same thing. I decided to leave it in for now, all the plugs are originals (1/2 NGK, 1/2 Denso), the car runs fine. Any ideas on the #4 plug? I didn't want to go any further in case I was causing a problem or if it's stripped (which would be weird seeing as it's likely from the factory install). Is this normal? Should I give it another go or take it to a shop to inspect?

Thanks

 

[zcruiser]

Follow up: Was able to finally remove everything to get at the plugs easily, just took a little extra elbow grease I replaced the wires and all the plugs except one...when I turned the #4 plug to remove it, it gave me a grinding feeling and sound, when I turned it back right I got the same thing. I decided to leave it in for now, all the plugs are originals (1/2 NGK, 1/2 Denso), the car runs fine. Any ideas on the #4 plug? I didn't want to go any further in case I was causing a problem or if it's stripped (which would be weird seeing as it's likely from the factory install). Is this normal? Should I give it another go or take it to a shop to inspect?

Thanks

Sorry just getting around to this thread. I've never experienced the grinding, but the plug is gonna have to be replaced. Was it harder to turn than the others or just grinding? If original plugs, not much (if any) chance it was cross-threaded, and if you were able to turn it back in, threads are intact. May have a broken insulator which makes the grinding noise.

Anyway, I'd go back in and try it again, but shine a light down in there before you remove the plug and make sure there's not any dirt/sand/debris in the plug well. If there is ANY, blow it out with compressed air before you remove the plug so it doesn't fall inside your cylinder.

Post a pic of the plug when you get it out.

Good luck!

 

[oneonth3run]

Sorry just getting around to this thread. I've never experienced the grinding, but the plug is gonna have to be replaced. Was it harder to turn than the others or just grinding? If original plugs, not much (if any) chance it was cross-threaded, and if you were able to turn it back in, threads are intact. May have a broken insulator which makes the grinding noise.

Anyway, I'd go back in and try it again, but shine a light down in there before you remove the plug and make sure there's not any dirt/sand/debris in the plug well. If there is ANY, blow it out with compressed air before you remove the plug so it doesn't fall inside your cylinder.

Post a pic of the plug when you get it out.

Good luck!

It didn't seem any more difficult to turn than the others, if anything a little easier at first. I only gave it maybe a 1/4 turn to loosen then turned it back, both turns gave me a similar feel/sound, and the resistance didn't seem to change while turning.

I'll take another look at it in the next few days, thanks for the response!

 

[oneonth3run]

Sorry just getting around to this thread. I've never experienced the grinding, but the plug is gonna have to be replaced. Was it harder to turn than the others or just grinding? If original plugs, not much (if any) chance it was cross-threaded, and if you were able to turn it back in, threads are intact. May have a broken insulator which makes the grinding noise.

Anyway, I'd go back in and try it again, but shine a light down in there before you remove the plug and make sure there's not any dirt/sand/debris in the plug well. If there is ANY, blow it out with compressed air before you remove the plug so it doesn't fall inside your cylinder.

Post a pic of the plug when you get it out.

Good luck!

What indicators should I be looking for if the plug is stripped? Does what I described sound like it could be the culprit?

 

[zcruiser]

What indicators should I be looking for if the plug is stripped? Does what I described sound like it could be the culprit?

If it's stripped you won't be able to get it out at all, or when you get it out the threads are all buggered or flattened off. Sorry, I don't have a good diagnosis of what would cause the feel/sound other than the plug well is already full of dirt and needs to be thoroughly cleaned out before you proceed.

 

[oneonth3run]

If it's stripped you won't be able to get it out at all, or when you get it out the threads are all buggered or flattened off. Sorry, I don't have a good diagnosis of what would cause the feel/sound other than the plug well is already full of dirt and needs to be thoroughly cleaned out before you proceed.

Gotcha, I'll have another look. Thanks

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[zimp132]

Big help having this, thank you for taking the time to write it up!

 

[zcruiser]

Gotcha, I'll have another look. Thanks

Well????

 

[crusso]

Why 1/2 ngk 1/2 denso

Any reason why OEM used half NGK and Denso

 

[zcruiser]

Any reason why OEM used half NGK and Denso

Nobody really knows, but the theory is that the heads were assembled on two different lines. To make sure Toyo sourced plugs equally from NGK and Denso (a dual-source procurement deal), they used different plugs on each line.

That’s about as plausible as it gets...

 

[Chunhe]

Thanks for the add. Purchased a 2000 limited and getting ready to do plugs and wires. Got the 3 NGK & wires. Is there a part # for the Denso type? I saw the Denso 3289. Are those it? Much appreciate and thanks for letting me in the group.

 

[Pj Benn]

https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-An-Inexpensive-Spark-Plug-Boot-Removal-Tool/

This saved me this morning. Swear I found it on this forum, came to say thanks but was another Toyota forum. Sharing here. Hopefully it helps someone else