How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures

[poleclimber63]

Anyone? I've searched the heck out of this, and I'm not receiving any definitive answers. If need be, I'll take it to a mechanic or the dealer...but would really rather not do that unless absolutely necessary.

I had steering issues as well, went through all joints-- everything checked out (replaced ITRE's).... I came across a vid of a guy recording the rack while turning his wheel... I did the same thing with my smartphone and noticed significant movement of the rack....I ordered poly bushings from Wheelers off road and replaced them in my garage, this winter. Huge difference!

If you do this, a couple of hints: there are a few vids to checkout beforehand. Also, an air tool or electric impact driver is essential!!! I couldn't get nearly enough force on any of the bolts, with the truck on jack stands. I bought my 7.5A electric impact driver from Canadian Tire for $70. I'm sure our American friends will find a better deal at their infinitely more plentiful tool suppliers! I removed the drivers side OTRE, this made lining up everything much easier. Again, the impact driver was essential in pulling the OTRE back together, as the ball joint tended to spin when I attempted to tighten it by hand.

Good luck!

 

[Kung]

Replaceing the guide is easy and will help with a lot fo steering issues, but if you really want to make a big improvement you need to replace the rack bushings.

Did that - in fact, that's one of the first things I did.

 

[steezemcqueen]

Just some more info for people that plan on doing this. I installed the newer style rack guide almost a year ago but recently the rack started to leak and it was just time to replace it. I picked up a OEM reman rack from a local company that does them but they are using the old style roller guide. I wanted to keep the new style but i didn't have the nut coupler or a big enough hex key to remove the guide from the old rack and put it in the new one.

I found out that the outer hex part of a 13/16's spark plug socket is the correct size for the rack guide. I just grabbed the socket with a pair of vice grips was able to back the guide cap out and install it in the new one with no problems.

 

[habanero]

I learned similar thing about A1Cardone when my replacement rack started clunking and there was a ridiculous amount of up and down movement going on.

I'd replaced with an A1Cardone rack so I emailed them regarding which guide they used. Their answer was that they only inspect the guides and do not replace unless needed. They also do not use the newer style at this time, just the roller version.

So buyer be aware, you might get a newer guide if you order a newer rack, but you might not. If you order the older 'roller' years you will likely get a roller guide.

I went ahead and replaced the guide with the newer style and that solved my problem, but in doing so I have voided my warranty. I could have gotten another reman on warranty but I figured if I was just going to get rollers again I wouldn't bother with pulling the whole rack again.

 

[Taylor20]

Anybody have a suggestion on where to find a 24mm hex socket? Can only find one in 3/4" drive and want one in 1/2". Thanks

 

[shootmymime]

I am experiencing the same problems that others are having. On sock suspension I would sometimes get a clunk.
Now after lift I get a clunk more often

After looking underneath and moving parts I've found that it's not the tie rod ends but the steering rack. The horizontal bar that slides back and forth to move tie rods has a small amount of play up and down on the driver side where it enters the rack.

After my lift it changed the angle of the tie rods and puts more force on the rack and that's what makes it clunk all the time now. I noticed it by jacking up the front of the vehicle then with both hands the driver side wheel (not steering wheel) at 3 and 9 o'clock rock back as forth. When I pulled the itr boot away from the rack I could see about 1/4" of vertical play in the shaft.

So I decided to buy a whole new rack, although after finding this thread and reading that new rack bushing might fix my problem. But I guess with my new rack I have new tie rod ends as well as rack bushings. So I figure I should be good for a while.

I had no fluid leaking. Just the play by the rack guide.

 

[poleclimber63]

I learned similar thing about A1Cardone when my replacement rack started clunking and there was a ridiculous amount of up and down movement going on.

I'd replaced with an A1Cardone rack so I emailed them regarding which guide they used. Their answer was that they only inspect the guides and do not replace unless needed. They also do not use the newer style at this time, just the roller version.

So buyer be aware, you might get a newer guide if you order a newer rack, but you might not. If you order the older 'roller' years you will likely get a roller guide.

I went ahead and replaced the guide with the newer style and that solved my problem, but in doing so I have voided my warranty. I could have gotten another reman on warranty but I figured if I was just going to get rollers again I wouldn't bother with pulling the whole rack again.

Changing my bushings helped 100%, however, its still not perfect. I've got a 98', pretty much everything's been changed except the rack, so I may just live with it until the rack starts to leak. I did see the posting about the guides (and the column tack weld) when I replaced the bushings... When the time comes, I'd want the newer guide version, do you suggest purchasing a rack for a 2002 instead of 1998? Your observation about the warranty is right-on... just the act of checking the guide style by opening the rack may void the warranty... suggestions??

 

[habanero]

Changing my bushings helped 100%, however, its still not perfect. I've got a 98', pretty much everything's been changed except the rack, so I may just live with it until the rack starts to leak. I did see the posting about the guides (and the column tack weld) when I replaced the bushings... When the time comes, I'd want the newer guide version, do you suggest purchasing a rack for a 2002 instead of 1998? Your observation about the warranty is right-on... just the act of checking the guide style by opening the rack may void the warranty... suggestions??

I'd already done the bushings before for overall rack movement, this was exagerated movement a bit worse than shown in the video that prompted the guide change. Considering they use the old style guide only when needed but mostly R&I at best if I have to get another A1 rack in the future I will be ordering a newer rack in an attempt to get a newer bushing. If it's got the newer style cap I'm going to assume (you know what that means) newer style guide whether right or not because undoing it does void the warranty according to A1. Maybe by that time they'll be using the newer style bushing, things can always change.

 

[poleclimber63]

Great colour!

I'd already done the bushings before for overall rack movement, this was exagerated movement a bit worse than shown in the video that prompted the guide change. Considering they use the old style guide only when needed but mostly R&I at best if I have to get another A1 rack in the future I will be ordering a newer rack in an attempt to get a newer bushing. If it's got the newer style cap I'm going to assume (you know what that means) newer style guide whether right or not because undoing it does void the warranty according to A1. Maybe by that time they'll be using the newer style bushing, things can always change.

Buyer beware--- asking questions, and when the time comes, taking note of the cap, is a good idea.

I followed your thread link.... I love the colour! I've only seen one 4runner that colour..... every morning I drop my College kid off, I see the truck parked in the same staff parking spot! Looks just like yours.

 

[habanero]

Buyer beware--- asking questions, and when the time comes, taking note of the cap, is a good idea.

I followed your thread link.... I love the colour! I've only seen one 4runner that colour..... every morning I drop my College kid off, I see the truck parked in the same staff parking spot! Looks just like yours.

Thanks! My truck's at a school lot during the day too, but not anywhere close to you.
When I'd bought the rack I hadn't seen the thread, it didn't occur to me the guide on it could become a problem......ah well, live and learn. Again. And again. Aaaannnd again!

 

[Brian757]

This may have been answered but I can't find it, but if we already have the new style steering rack guide, can we simply tighten the guide or is it recommended to just replace the aforementioned parts? (Nut, cap, guide, etc.)

Also, I bought a 5/8" rod connector and it's too small. I bought a 3/4" rod connector and it's too big. Any ideas?

 

[Nelsonmd]

You can tighten the guide if it has come loose, but be careful about over-tightening, you can easily make the steering super tight.

As far as the 5/8 rod being too small, you can try putting it in,then jamming a thin piece of metal into the sides, like a hack saw blade. This'll work if it isn't way too small.

 

[SCRunner12]

I just want to check, do you need an alignment after doing this and can be done with the tires still on? Hoping to get it done this weekend and cure some sloppiness in my steering.

 

[Blazerpounds]

Sc, I replaced the inner tie rods and steering rack bushings, and unless you've got the option to put your rig up on a rack, you're gonna need pull the tires.

 

[WideFive]

I did the rack guide and bushings on mine ('98 w/ 3" lift) without removing the tires or even jacking it up. Was a pain and there are easier ways, but I was trying to see if it could be done as a lot of guys have limited tools.

Had an alignment done afterwards. I'm getting full use out of the Firestone lifetime alignment deal.

 

[shootmymime]

To adjust mine I used a bolt and 2 nuts. I put the head of the bolt in the guide and then adjusted the tightness by twisting against the nuts.

 

[Brian757]

Thanks [MENTION=56021]Nelsonmd[/MENTION] for the response. I actually bought my first 5/8" from Taylors Do-It Center and it was far too small. I went to Home Depot and their 5/8" was perfect. I tightened it a little too far and drove it, backed it off and now I'm somewhat happy.

However, I have the new style rack guide and it has 140,000 miles on it. Should I replace my rack guide even technically since it's the new style? It still has a lot of mileage on it. I have seen this asked but never answered... Would I see a dramatic improvement/if any?

 

[St0neWhite]

Soooo.... I have replaced the bushings w polymers last year, replace ubj and lbj last year. Now I have that clunk/clank sound. I climbed under and wiggled the wheel and saw the shaft move a 1/4 inch or so up and down. Then I tightened up the guide and the only way to get it to stop moving and making noise, is to tighten it up so much it won't go back to zero when turning.

Anything else I can do other than replace the rack ?
This is what it looks like under the boot:

New rack time ....?

 

[ki1022]

I had some play in my rack near the steering guide like in the video in the first post. But when I pulled the boot off to check it out, a bunch of ATF spilled out so I guess my rack seals are leaking. Instead of replacing the rack guide, I just tightened that big nut a little bit with an impact and a 13/16" inch socket. It was a little too tight when I drove around the block the first time, so then I backed it off a bit and now its perfect. Made a HUGE difference in my steering for absolutely $0 and 5 minutes of time. I'm kicking myself for not doing this earlier. For now I will probably add a little bit of Lucas stop-leak and just keep an eye on my PS fluid level until I am ready to replace the whole rack...

 

[gamefreakgc]

Just ordered my parts, came to $74 with shipping. Finally getting around to doing this.

I've got the vibration at high speeds, etc. blah blah blah like everyone else and I'm confident this will improve things. My truck handles pretty bad but I've also got new LBJ's, new shocks, struts and coils on the way to remedy that. They are all leaking or shot to some extent or another. Now I just gotta wait...