How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures

[xcmtb83]

Soooo.... I have replaced the bushings w polymers last year, replace ubj and lbj last year. Now I have that clunk/clank sound. I climbed under and wiggled the wheel and saw the shaft move a 1/4 inch or so up and down. Then I tightened up the guide and the only way to get it to stop moving and making noise, is to tighten it up so much it won't go back to zero when turning.

Anything else I can do other than replace the rack ?
This is what it looks like under the boot:

New rack time ....?

Have you upgraded to the newer style rack guide yet? If not I would recommend that. IMO the newer style guide is a must have ESPECIALLY if the vehicle is lifted. I threw one in my stock 3rd Gen and my lifted 1st Gen Tacoma. The steering response improved on both vehicles.

 

[floatingkiwi]

Moderator - sticky this thread!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Ok, I can't get the stupid rack guide off (and yes I'm turning it the correct direction)! I've soaked it in penetrant and been whacking at it with a wrench for like an hour now... any tips? I don't have an impact wrench and the sway bar blocks access with any power tool, not that I have any that would work on it anyway. I'm hesitant to use a torch to heat it up since I've thoroughly soaked in it highly flammable penetrant.

 

[SCRunner12]

I used a large pipe wrench and it worked well. Plus I could attach a pipe to it and get some good leverage.

BTW, this is one of the better mods I've done. It really helps with the steering and random vibrations you may have up front.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I used a large pipe wrench and it worked well. Plus I could attach a pipe to it and get some good leverage.

BTW, this is one of the better mods I've done. It really helps with the steering and random vibrations you may have up front.

Thanks, I'll give that a shot then. I'm out of time today so will let it soak and try again tomorrow. Off to fix a p0448 code on my Altima

Verdict: Took a heat gun to loosen up the nut enough for me to turn it. Probably took about 150 lbs. force while under the truck. Someone REALLY overtighted it at some point, the steering feels much better now! I don't have to crank the steering wheel hard to return back to the center (not to turn it, to "un-turn" it). Shakes are still there but better.

 

[JBurt]

If I've got play in my steering and I've replaced inner and outer tie rods and now I'm debating upgrading the guide or replacing the rack.

Could anything else in the rack wear out other that's the guide? My rack has 200k miles on it.

 

[LittleCaesar]

If I've got play in my steering and I've replaced inner and outer tie rods and now I'm debating upgrading the guide or replacing the rack.

Could anything else in the rack wear out other that's the guide? My rack has 200k miles on it.

Try looking at the bushing first. If you can see movement in the rack, then replace the old ones with poly ones.

If the wandering persists, then look into this:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/164396-diagnose-repair-steering-play-rattle.html

 

[JBurt]

I've got poly bushing already. It helped immensely. Ithink I'll take off the bellows and see if the rack gear moves.

 

[LittleCaesar]

My friend in his playtoy 03 Tacoma (220k) replaced the rack on his with an OEM one. Much better but he still had some slop in the steering wheel. Two tack welds on the shaft and he said the steering was 10x better, almost too tight.

Once the rack got broken in he has loved the steering and proclaims it is even better than when brand new (it has been in his family since mile 7 on the od).

 

[ridetime88]

basically it is the steering shaft (drivers side of rack) that is able to pop up and down inside the steering rack tube due to a faulty/old/worn steering rack guide. Why? Because the old design was just not as well thought out as the new....

Its night and day. well work it. and so, SO EASY TO DO.

Also, another good symptom is the inability to align. Forget about adjusting the toe or keeping the vehicle going in a straight line. she will wander uncontrollably.

Shit man that sounds like my truck. The guy who aligned it for me last got it as close as he could with two used tires on the front that were not worn down equally, so one had more tread than the other, he explained that's why my truck had a little shimmy. He also explained to me that the truck feels like it wants to jack knife, that feeling you get when your towing something big, too fast?? And it starts a side to side sway?? Yea if I'm on the highway at 70 and I move the wheel a inch back and forth it will induce this not very comforting feeling.

. This was before the addition of the camburg upper a arm, and before the boots on all my tie rods started crying grease along with the Lower BJ.......

I just ordered all new inner and outer tie rods, next lower BJ's. Guess I should look into getting that newer style damn rack guide. Anybody have a picture of this guide?

 

[poleclimber63]

Time for me to do this...

I've done everything now except maybe control arm bushings. The "sloppiness" has increased a little over the last couple of years since I did BJ's, TR's, and rack bushings. It's to a point it noticeable uncomfortable at higher speeds--- just means I have to pay a little more attention to the road on the highway. So it's time, as we plan on a driving holiday this Summer. I'm in Canada, so with the exchange having become significantly worse recently, I'm going to order the parts in Canada, online, the guide is priced at $75cdn= $60US.....

 

[gearnuts]

just did this upgrade on my 2000 2wd. used same oem parts as yukon indicates in OP. 5/8" connector rod worked great for me. bit of advice, that i didn't see here regarding the nut.

the nut is a lock ring. it should be removed/loosened first, i used large channel locks. then the old "outty" cap is easily removed with a 10" crescent wrench.

on reinstall, torque the cap 18 ft/lbs -19 degrees, i found it was very easy to over do it. it took a few quick road tests to get the return to center where it didn't feel like it was binding. then install/tighten the nut/lock ring to 38 ft/lbs with the channel locks. a larger crescent would have been better as the nut is pretty soft and the channel locks can tear it up if you're not careful or slip off.

noticeably improved turning response, no slop in the steering wheel. still have some clunks though so all TREs are next.

 

[repo]

I don't know how much value that 18 ft/lb spec has because this whole thing is supposed to be done with the rack removed and fluid drained. The 18 ft/lb is just to initially seat the guide, then it's supposed to be backed off all the way and then tightened while measuring the torque on the valve with no fluid in the system. You're also supposed to move it through the full range because the rack wears in the center more, so it can bind at the sides if you just torque in the center position.

Also the 38 ft/lbs for the lock ring is pretty arbitrary too because it's meant to be tightened with the SST and that value is adjusted for the change in fulcrum from the SST. It also specs loctite 242 on the locknut threads when you tighten it.

 

[poleclimber63]

Doing this next weekend!

I ordered the parts 2 months ago but I got sidetracked by my 4.3L Mercruiser outdrive project. Got it back together a week and a half ago and now I can get back to the truck.
I've started to notice some shuddering on brake application.... time to consider the Tundra brake upgrade....

 

[floatingkiwi]

I don't know how much value that 18 ft/lb spec has because this whole thing is supposed to be done with the rack removed and fluid drained. The 18 ft/lb is just to initially seat the guide, then it's supposed to be backed off all the way and then tightened while measuring the torque on the valve with no fluid in the system. You're also supposed to move it through the full range because the rack wears in the center more, so it can bind at the sides if you just torque in the center position.

Also the 38 ft/lbs for the lock ring is pretty arbitrary too because it's meant to be tightened with the SST and that value is adjusted for the change in fulcrum from the SST. It also specs loctite 242 on the locknut threads when you tighten it.

Also put a little bit of easy Loctite or pipe sealant on the guide packing nut/spring compressor nut too or water will make it's way into the rack guide area, and you really don't want that.

 

[3bears]

So reading this and the original TTORA thread, in post 3 someone said that the original steering racks are life time gaurnteed and Toyota is just screwing everyone on this, that all you have to do is pay shipping
wonder if that is true and something that has been overlooked

 

[gamefreakgc]

You'd have to prove that yours is defective, which I think would be pretty hard to do with a high mileage vehicle (the fact it made it as long as it did on a "defective" part kind of negates the argument). Also if it's a "lifetime part" that's different from a "lifetime warranty". I don't think it's worth the hassle, the new parts cost only about $60 anyway.

 

[poleclimber63]

finally!

I finally got around to doing my rack guide. I've had the parts for a couple of months but now I'm on vacation, I finally got a chance to do it, and I'm glad I did! I've noticed an immediate improvement: less slop in the steering response. We'll see how it is on the highway, as we're leaving for the coast in a few days.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/membe......-picture34507-new-rack-guide-installed.jpg
Those pen marks are 19degrees....

 

[HiLife]

I think I need a new rack. But thanks to [MENTION=84643]JBurt[/MENTION], I will be changing out to the newer style rack guide first and go from there.

 

[AZRunnin]

Help for those looking for the rod coupler

After replacing the following on my 98 V6 4WD:

1. LCA
2. LBJ
3. Outer tie rods
4. Sway bar links
5. Steering rack bushings
6. Sway bar bushings
7. Shocks on all four corners

Steering and handling was rock solid on smooth roads but truck jumped around on rough or "warped" roads. It also had a slight clunk feel when backing out of the driveway curb but never had wandering or a shimmy.

Glad I did because it fixed the jumpiness and the steering wheel has less vibrations or jiggles. The also feels significantly more solid now.

The 5/8" rod coupler worked great but I used a wrench on it because the socket wouldn't work without removing the sway bar.

I found the coupler at Home Depot with the steel rods, angle iron, etc. Below are pictures of the wrapper and receipt in case the part number/sku helps someone find it.