HULK Build Thread

[ameining]

ameining,

great job with the rig. it is really impressive and so is all the hard work you have put in. how do you time to post so much in one month, are you on summer break?

I used your rig as a reference to swap over to powder-coated 5-stars myself. I get them installed next week.

Did you paint your calipers red yet? I would really like to see some shots of those wheels with the red calipers. I am debating if I should paint mine red or silver.

:thumb3:

Brianemc2. 1st of all, let me say I love the name...as I am an engineer and do enjoy to see those references!

Good observation on the work loaading...if you have noticed I refer to my projects these last two months as 'Days Off' projects. I work on a drilling rig, and my schedule is 14 days on, 14 days off. Therefore it is like I get a small Summer to dedicate to projects alone...

You will not regret the powder coating...I think it looks great

Have not done the calipers yet, I was actually thinking of taking them to the Powdercoater as well...the PC'ing is so much more durable than a rattle can job. I am just waiting on this project until I feel a bit more confident with all the parts needed. I live 3 hours from any town, so if I don't have all the parts it is a major PITA to go searching!

 

[Supra725]

ameining,

how are you liking the shrockwork sliders?

could it be used as running boards mate?

thanks.

 

[ameining]

ameining,

how are you liking the shrockwork sliders?

could it be used as running boards mate?

thanks.

I really like the running boards, they fit up snug to the vehicle and can also be used as a means to step on to get in/get on top.etc.

HOWEVER: As you will see in my very next post to illustrate my point, they are VERY slippery when wet. Since it is a Satin powdercoat they are just exceedingly dangerous to use to get into the vehicle if it is snowing/raining.....

Again, this is timely so ready my next post!

I would not recommend using both rock sliders and the running boards for a couple reasons:
1.) They use the same mounting points on the frame. You will need to drill in some 1/2" holes for the SW sliders, but they still go in the same place as the factory running boards.
2.) I am not sure how it would look, probably awfully busy
3.) The sliders would effectively nulify the running boards and in my opinion would just be in the way
4.) The factory running boards are pretty low hanging fruit for rocks and various other things you may come across on trails...

 

[ameining]

Grip Tape on Rock Sliders

Last Winter my Mother (who is not very tall) was getting into the vehicle and while using the sliders as a 'step' nearly smashed her head while her feet slipped on the sliders.

So, I believe some others have done this but I am not sure exactly who. BigFishAllDay, yet again, helped me with the exact product and I went with the 3M ladder grip tape from Lowes. It retails for around $13, and in my opinion is worth every penny.

Tools needed:
1.) Grip tape of your choice
2.) Scissors
3.) I recommend using a buddy for this one

Very simple install, overall less than thirty minutes with myself and an OCD Dad!

Photo of the product purchased:

After cleaning the sliders as thoroughly as I could, I took a measurement from front to back where the beginning of the bend in the tube is (you can sort of feel a ridge where the diameter changes ever so slightly. I figured this was a good spot to have the tape start and stop

My measurement was 49" and then the next step was to cut matching lengths, I also rounded the corners using a MagLight as a stencil and I like how that looks

And just some final shots of the install. Again, very painless little project but I think it will be a very functional addition.
CAUTION: The tape is heavy duty, and so getting in and out with shorts on or for shorter people can possibly make for a skinned knee if brushed across too hard...

Driver Side:

Passenger Side:

Open to feedback as always!

 

[4Runner8]

nice job! looks good

 

[ameining]

1st Gen Roll Bar!!

As mentioned earlier, I did get my hands on a 1st Gen Roll Bar (1988) at a salvage yard here in Colorado. I thought, what the heck lets see what this can look like!!

Sonoran Steel makes a kit for this project, which basically includes plates to go on the underside of the vehicle and all the hardware needed.

Tools Needed
1.) 1st Gen Roll Bar
2.) Grinder (I used a 4.5" angle grinder), or cutting torch
3.) Welder
4.) A buddy to help with the mounting


As for the process, I will walk the steps through in photos as opposed to listing them first. Ultimately, the challenge comes from the fact that the 1st Gens came with 29" tires from the shop and the 3rd Gens come with 31" tires. Therefore the rear wheelwells are taller in the 3rd Gen, which makes the bar sit too high without removing some metal from the front legs.

Here is a photo of the rollbar before any work was to be done:

The kit from Sonoran comes with a small amount of instructions, as well as a diagram for what needs to be cut. 1.75" down from the seatelt holder is where the cut needs to be made. This effectively drops around 1.5"-2" off those front lets.

So, once this cut is made, the plate on the bottom needs to be RE-USED so take the part you cut off and grind down all the metal and extra weld so that it is flush again:

End product:

Here is a photo of the amount of tube that was removed from the legs, with the bottom plate removed:

Next, just take the grinding tool of your choice and made the plate face you just ground down and the roll bar leg surfaces 'weld-ready'. I do not have a good photo of this, and likely anybody who is going to do this knows how to weld so knows what I am talking about.

I mocked the bar in the back to make sure I liked how it fit before doing any welding, etc. Here is what it looks like on the passenger side:

In order to get it centered, I used to cargo hooks as a measuring point. Putting the driver side flush up to the wheelwell (which is an oddly shaped wheelwell) put the bar 3.5" from the cargo hook. Here is the same measurement on the two sides:

NOW: This was not part of the installation instructions I received, but when I put the bar in I noticed that neither of the surfaces for the front legs are perpendicular with the rollbar. They each slope toward the inside of the vehicle

I took an eyeball measurement of how to grind down the legs so that they would sit on this surface, and then took off the metal. Here is a couple photos to illustrate my point:

So, like I said I pushed the plates down on their respective surfaces and then used a metal scribe to draw a parallel line. This works, as far as I can tell but I have YET to do the final installation...hence me outlining this as a step that I added.

Now on to the welding

I do not own a welder, so I borrowed an Arc welder from a buddy up here in the mountains. I ground off the surface finish on the seatbelt holders to use as a ground, and propped up cinder blocks to accomodate this new change in angle for the bottom plates:

Now there is some quality use of the appropriate tools!! Notice the ice scraper used as a prop for the driver side roll bar leg!!!

Here is a shot of the welding I did, I have only done MIG in the past so this was a major learning experience with the Arc. I was determined to get this project done, and so lets just say that the welds will need some major grinding!!

So here is the finished product, all welded in place:

At this point I have not put the product in the truck, it was 12:30 last night and we had still not eaten dinner. I have a huge amount of windows to clean today, so I may not get to the final photos as soon as I would like. However, right now the plan is for a Mag Light mounted, a Hi-Lift mounted, and possible the spare tire on the driver side....

Stay tuned!!

 

[ameining]

Roll Bar Installed!

So, now it is time to finish the install post for the 1st Gen Roll Bar

Step 1.) Spot the bar in place and double check the 3.5" from cargo clip placement to mark hole pattern

Step 2.) Mark all holes to be drilled for hardware provided by Sonoran Steel

Here is the kit that is provided by Sonoran Steel, which includes bottom plates and all the necessary hardware for the installation

Step 3.) Drill the holes...NOTE: the insulation makes for some difficult drilling. As seen in this photo, I simply pulled the carpet and removed a section. IT WILL CAUSE THE BIT TO WALK, WHICH WILL MAKE YOUR HOLES WRONG

Here is a final shots of the parts that I welded and then ground down. Of course they need to be painted...but that is for another day!!

And now, just two examples of the bottom plates...NOTE: the bolts need their final trim for the wheelwells to ensure less rubbing on tire at full flex.
During the install, it was necessary to use longer bolts to get the nut to engage with the washer. But once tightened, there are more threads exposed. I will not only remove one bolt at a time to trim them.

Some final install photos (sorry for poor lighting!)

 

[ameining]

CB Antenna Mount

I had forgotten to post the final part of the CB Install...Drifter's Antenna mount, and the Antenna!!

Parts:
1.) Drifters Mount
2.) Black Paint (I went with Rustoleum)
3.) Screwdriver
4.) Firestik 4' Firefly Antenna
5.) Antenna Spring

After the previous post on the CB, you will remember that I had routed the wire already...so the install is painless.

Step 1.) Remove the factory bump-stop, I took the time to grind down the rubber to accomodate the extra width of the mount and the stop could still be there. Mount the bracket in the same bolt holes with the factory hardware

NOTE: If you do this, there is a metal support in the middle of the bumpstop (which I removed) that gives the stop its rigidity. I now have a less 'stable' bumpstop, but it is entirely functional. If I were to do it again, I would have maybe taken the meat off the top (however this would not look as clean)

Step 2.) Install antenna, adapter piece, and the heavy duty spring. That's all thats involved!

Thanks Drifter for the part, it works great!!! I have noticed some relatively large swinging while on the highway (likely some of it is the steel flexing, and the rest is the spring)...so I would recommend doing a spring for sure to not bust off the antenna

 

[4-Ripcord]

Wow! You've been busy lately! Everything looks great too.

One suggestion, get some sort of rubber bump for the CB antenna, it will be smacking the side of your truck all day long with that spring on it.

 

[ameining]

Blacking Out Emblems

It is time to finalize the blacking out of the emblems!

There are a myriad of posts on the forum on this procedure, I pulled a few of them and kind of did it the way described.

Tools Needed:
1.) Hair dryer
2.) Dental Floss (waxed is better)
3.) Blade of some sort to remove adhesive
4.) 3M adhesive remover (bottle spray)
5.) Plastic primer
6.) Paint of choice

Here are some pre-photos. Initially I tried the plasti-dip drill on the 4Runner emblem and license plate case, and I know a lot of folks on here love the product...but I was not a fan. You will see my issues with it, I give my vehicle a huge amount of 4WD time and always run it though the wand wash. The plasti-dip simply can not hold up to the conditions. If it is a highway driver, then it may be a much simpler alternative to the process I am about to describe:

Step 1.) Mask off all decals so that you can remember the proper placement upon completion of painting:

Step 2.) Spray Rustoleum Decal and Adhesive on the top side of all the decals so it can drip behind. Let it sit for a minute or so and then use a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive for easier removal.

Step 3.) For all emblems except the top center Toyota ensignia, just run the floss behind the emblem for removal. There was a LOT of residual adhesive left on my vehicle, maybe more heat would have helped...I am not sure

Step 3a.) Different than some of the procedures I read, I still used the Floss for the top decal. There are two pins that hold this one in place, which also means taping this one is not necessary. When you get all adhesive removed, simply put the floss right up next to the pins and carefully pull out for removal:

Here are all the emblems after removal (including the emblem from the grill):

Step 4.) I ran some 1000 grit on all surfaces. Then give the emblems each a place on some cardboard, and mount them on a piece of rolled masking tape to bring them off the surface slightly. This allows for all surfaces seen to get paint...also keeps them from getting stuck to the board.

Step 5.) Remove the remaining adhesive on the vehicle. I used an exacto knife and the adhesive removal. This stupid step must have taken me two hours and is tedious.

NOTE: If a blade is used, be VERY careful to not slip. I induced some scratching on the back, which is NOT cool.

Step 6.) Throw a small coat of plastic primer on them and let dry 1-2 hours

Step 7.) Use 2-3 coats of the paint you chose. Be careful to use the 8-10" spacing, and not go too heavy. The parts are small, they do not need a lot of paint

Step 8a.) I threw a VERY light coat of clear coat on top. DO NOT go too think with this, it will make the final product look terrible.

Step 9.) For attachment, I used 3M molding tape instead of liquid adhesive. This is because it is much cleaner, and I thought would make for easier removal if I ever chose to do so agian...hopefully not!!

This is a timely process, as I chose to tape almost all surfaces, likely this is not entirely necessary. Here is an example of the tape job I did on the large 4Runner emblem

Step 10.) Just apply the emblems in the spots you previously had taped off and remove the masking tape.

Let me know your thoughts!!

 

[ameining]

Wow! You've been busy lately! Everything looks great too.

One suggestion, get some sort of rubber bump for the CB antenna, it will be smacking the side of your truck all day long with that spring on it.

Thanks Ripcord!! I am pretty close to getting the whole thread complete too, I think it looks better with the photos and a little more text.

Do you recommend no spring? I was worried about the thing just busting off...I have not noticed it hitting the side of the vehicle as of yet but you may be right.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Well I have a spring on my antenna too. I just bought a black racquetball, cut a hole on both sides and slid it on to the antenna. Works great.

 

[ameining]

Grille Painting

My Grille has taken a beating over time, and is the only real part that has weathered paint. So it was time for a change!!

With the grille fitting so well within the top bar of the bumper, I thought black would be a good accent and look clean.

NOTE: The Shrockworks bumper fits VERY tight to the front, and as you can see from earlier in my thread I had the bumper off to make it fit even tighter. This will mean the grille face (emblem) will rub on the bar during removal and re-installation.

I had this whole week planned to get the grille on before the bumper went back on, but I ran out of time (due to adding an extra two coats of paint) and had to get the bumper on so the paint had at least 48 hours to dry. You will see later why this is an issue

Parts Needed:
1.) Screwdriver, flathead and philips
2.) Paint of Choice

Step 1.) Grille removal procedure is posted all over this thread, and since it takes two hands I was unable to get photos. There are 6 tabs that need removal in order for this to happen, and it pops right out

As you can see, the grille is in pretty rough shape:

Step 2.) I removed the toyota emblem, which involves two screws on the back of the grille, and painted it as part of the previous emblem painting project. I then taped off the housing so the extra thickness would not prevent me from re-applying to emblem:

Step 3.) Ran 1000 grit across all surfaces, and then threw a coat of plastic primer on the whole unit.

Here are the paints I chose:

Step 4.) Apply 2-3 Coats of paint, and let dry at least 48-72 hours in a cool, dry area. I threw a light coat of the clear coat on.

NOTE: Initially I went way too thick with the clear coat and it looked like S***!! I had to re-do the whole thing

Step 5.) Re-attach the emblem, and then install back on vehicle.

NOTE: As mentioned above the Shrockworks bumper fits very tight, and put a slight skuff on the emblem...Nothing that can't be touched up, but still very irritating!!

 

[ameining]

KC 4WD Light Dress-Up

Time to give the 4WD lights a little attention.

When I got the 4WD lights as a gift, they were chrome and so I sanded and painted them immediately. That was about 1.5 years ago, and there were some slight paint chips that started to bother me.

Also, the grill can't be removed with the lights on (they are not the slim-type lights) and I did not have any quick disconnects anywhere in the system...On top of everything the metal conduit was pulling out of the gromet in the back of the light and making me nervous that moisture was getting inside the light housing...

All of this added up, and it was time for a few changes!!

What I did:
1.) Ran conduit along all wires
2.) Installed wire disconnects (all weather) in the wiring so they can be removed without cutting wires
3.) Added adhesive to the connection of the metal conduit and the rubber gromet
4.) Painted the guard that had white 'KC' lettering
5.) Also painted the guard for the PIAA 520's that had 'PIAA' white lettering

Here is a shot of where I added the adhesive to help protect the lights:

I would likely have used Silicon if I had some, but I did not, and I think this will serve my purpose just fine

I re-did the wiring so that every bit of it is protected and also added the wire connectors

Time for a re-paint job. I taped up the fronts obviously and then went with 3 coats of paint and no-clear coat. It was a textured Rustoleum, and I like the finish

I also painted the guards on both the KC's and the PIAA's. I gave them a dusting with the 1000 grit and got after it. No primer, just paint and a small amount of clear coat protectant

Let them dry for about 48 hours, and then re-installed!

 

[ameining]

Well I have a spring on my antenna too. I just bought a black racquetball, cut a hole on both sides and slid it on to the antenna. Works great.

Ripcord, so you said you drilled a hole through both sides...I guess I was thinking it would have gone on the top. Where do you have the 'bumper' placed?? Maybe I should check your build again...

 

[ameining]

Wheeling Photos

A couple of the rig in action!

I realized after throwing a couple shots on here, that I do not have many of the rig in action. I found some photos of a trip to Moab I took some time ago, the good one to see is the downhill where the fat lip bumper would have likely been trashed....thanks for the shrockworks!!!

There were a couple of the places where my buddy made the ascent but we did not change photographers so there are not good ones of my rig

This was not a bad addition to the trail this day....:

 

[BrianSD_42]

The rig is looking great man!

Off Road Girls ... approve

Have you considered painting the Toyota logo on your center caps green? I just painted mine red to match my skid plates. So now my center cap is black with a red symbol.

CO must be a fun place to have a truck.

 

[ameining]

CBI Time

So I pulled the trigger today on a CBI. Went a little different with the spare tire swing away...but at this point I just can't wait for the delivery!

Hi-lift is en route as well. I just need to find a full sized spare and then re-pipe my exhaust to go out the exhaust port that will be in the bumper.

I am pumped!!!

 

[ameining]

The rig is looking great man!

Off Road Girls ... approve

Have you considered painting the Toyota logo on your center caps green? I just painted mine red to match my skid plates. So now my center cap is black with a red symbol.

CO must be a fun place to have a truck.

I think the green toyota logo is a great idea. How did you mask it off? Not a single line on them is straight!!

CO is a great place for one of these vehicles. I live at around 10k feet as well, so my rig sees 10x as much off road as it does pavement!

 

[BrianSD_42]

How did you mask it off? Not a single line on them is straight!!

I was going to try and tape the Center Caps before painting but I finally realized it would be easier just to get a really fine painters brush and hand paint the logos in. I have a decently steady hand but all you really need is a super fine brush.