I bit the bullet and bought the correct tool

[VincentGsrq]

Being a "tool junkie" it should not have taken this long, but. When I replaced my AC system components a couple of months back, I also replaced the idle pulley and all 3 drive belts (2.7L) I adjusted the tension on all of the belts and I have always tried to be on the "not too tight" side when it comes to a drive belt. After a couple of months of occasional chirp/squeak at start up, I had already increased tension on all 3 belts once and on the AC belt twice and it was still happening on occasion. I found a BNIB tension gauge on fleabay for $45, or roughly half of msrp. After checking all 3 belts I understood why it would still chirp, AC belt was under 80 ft lbs and the PS and Alt belts were both just over 60 ft lbs. Without this gauge I would never have cranked them as tight as they needed to be, I set them all to just under 100, call it 95 ft lbs. OEM shop manual shows 2 types of gauges this one and the Denso and lists belt tension at 100 ft lbs. $45 was cheap for "piece of mind" that the belts are tight but not overly tight, and after 2 days not a peep Lesson learned and I will within reason indulge my "tool" addiction as I tackle the repairs and maintenance. One of my tool goals is now a lift, I am getting too old working from the ground underneath and I plan to keep wrenching on my Runner and 81 Celica, plus I have the space.

 

[JZiggy]

Nice! That’s a cool tool. I got a cheapie belt tension gauge about the size of a pocket knife. I had the same conclusions as you: when I tighten “by feel” I’m typically 50% under where the FSM wants it to be.

I think old school V belts dont require as much tension to transfer torque effectively. The multi ribbed ones need more.

 

[jgue467]

Cool! Now don't let everyone on the block go borrowing it, haha....

 

[calimobber]

Nice, I never even thought about that. I have the same issue where I under tighten and get chirping. I hate hate hate tighting the power steerings belt since its such a pain to reach those bolts.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Nice and I often wondered about tightening a belt correctly. Money well spent to know.

Not sure what you need/want for a lift, but this is about as cheap, easy and useful as a lift gets.

https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5,...rtable-car-lift-bundle.product.100666851.html


Eddie

 

[MaineRunna]

That's a cool tool. If there's one thing I can say about Japanese vehicles it's that they like their belts super tight, way beyond what you would feel comfortable tightening them to. Toyotas will squeak and squeal with a belt that seems tight. They will also have jumpy or almost non-existent power steering with no squeal with a loose PS belt.

 

[VincentGsrq]

Nice and I often wondered about tightening a belt correctly. Money well spent to know.

Not sure what you need/want for a lift, but this is about as cheap, easy and useful as a lift gets.

https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5,...rtable-car-lift-bundle.product.100666851.html


Eddie

Thanks for the link that is an interesting an easy lift, but still leaves me underneath on the ground. I am looking for a used 2 post high lift 9k+- lb I had one years ago that I bought used and I sold it with the building.

 

[TheDurk]

Nice and I often wondered about tightening a belt correctly. Money well spent to know.

Not sure what you need/want for a lift, but this is about as cheap, easy and useful as a lift gets.

https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5,...rtable-car-lift-bundle.product.100666851.html


Eddie

Sorry. I am not getting underneath that thing.

 

[Sarki]

Thanks for the link that is an interesting an easy lift, but still leaves me underneath on the ground. I am looking for a used 2 post high lift 9k+- lb I had one years ago that I bought used and I sold it with the building.

Don’t discount a 4 post lift. I was originally going 2 post but eventually decided on a Bendpac 4 post HD9.......zero regrets.
They offer several variations, including a high lift if you have the ceiling height.
If you get the RJ45 rolling Jack you can pretty much do any repair you want.
The 4 post is obviously great for storing a 2nd vehicle which is what I use it for on a daily basis but great for brake, suspension, exhaust, etc work.
I found the price difference between new and used wasn’t substantial enough to justify and ordering new I got exactly what I wanted.
Having the lift is a luxury worth having if you can swing it and you have the room

 

[VincentGsrq]

Thanks for the advice, all of the 4 post lifts I have seen lift the car while it is sitting on its wheels, and I have not seen one used for sale before. The 2 post lifts I have seen used are after a mechanic shop goes out of biz and it is often the landlord selling it and it needs to be de-rigged and hauled off. Space isn't an issue thankfully and it wont be used to store a vehicle only to work on it. I can get a new 2 post lift delivered for $2k but I am going to wait until I find one that needs to be removed and hopefully under $1k. The one I sold with my old shop bldg in Santa Fe I paid $250 and de rigged it and hauled it off, but that was 25 years ago. I plan to install it in a similar manner, out side on the side of the building under a shed roof, pour one concrete grade beam to mount the lift and then a concrete paver deck around it. This time instead of a gutter I may try installing 2' high side wall on the splash side for when it rains, I have too many trees on the property for gutters.

 

[Sarki]

If memory is correct I went 6” concrete (fiber reinforced) @ 4,000 psi.
If no intent on using for storage you probably right, 2 post probably best for your situation.
Originally wanted to go used as well but tough to find in my area.