PalmettoRunner
New member
Ever notice how its the little things that make a truck? Nice touch!
I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
BrianSD_42
New member
BigFish, I really like the wheels. I am thinking of changing mine up. Are yours the 16x8?
If I do buy new ones I may get the same ones you have. I hope you don't mind
I'll probably paint my Eagle Wheels and try to get $50 a piece for them on CL.
BTW, can you post a link to purchase that decal?
Also, did that hubcap come with it? I would like to find an alternate black hubcap for my current wheels.
Your truck still looks awesome!
If I do buy new ones I may get the same ones you have. I hope you don't mind
I'll probably paint my Eagle Wheels and try to get $50 a piece for them on CL.BTW, can you post a link to purchase that decal?
Also, did that hubcap come with it? I would like to find an alternate black hubcap for my current wheels.
Your truck still looks awesome!
Last edited:
4-Ripcord
New member
BigFishAllDay
New member
BigFish, I really like the wheels. I am thinking of changing mine up. Are yours the 16x8?
If I do buy new ones I may get the same ones you have. I hope you don't mind
BTW, can you post a link to purchase that decal?
Also, did that hubcap come with it? I would like to find an alternate black hubcap for my current wheels.
Your truck still looks awesome!
brian, yeah my wheels are 16x8's... they are Procomp model 8069's. And it's not going to hurt my feelings if you get some because there's alot of guys running them (ie Hepar, FourFlusher, Kregg, downpour11, and others).
As Ripcord mentioned, the answers to your other questions were in my previous posts. I looked for small TRD stickers that I could use on the hubcaps for a long time, when I couldn't find any I just had them made.
Hepar
New member
Well, it might hurt MY feelings!
BrianSD_42
New member
sorry about that, I should really stop visiting this site on my phone and use something with a bigger screen.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Rear Cargo Box Build!
Alright... More free time = more work on the 4Runner. So it goes lately.
I've always wished that 4Runners had more interior storage. The solution? A custom built cargo box, right? The typical cargo box build does not suit my needs. I dont want to be hassling with removing/re-installing/building a sleeping platform, I don't feel the need to take everything in my garage with me on trips, and I like having the rear area free down to the carpet for hauling tall items in the back.
My goals:
1. Gain extra space for stowing tow straps, chains, tools, first aid kit, etc, etc.
2. Make use of otherwise inefficiently used space.
3. Use existing mounting points on the vehicle.
4. Be quickly and easily removed/installed.
5. That the container must not intrude upon the vehicle's floor space.
My plan, use the otherwise inefficiently used space above the driver's side wheel well:
The execution of the plan:
The goal was to put a 10" subwoofer in the forward compartment of the cargo box. When it finally materialized and I was able to calculate the interior volume of the forward compartment, it turned out I only had about 0.5 cubic feet. I needed 0.6 (not including the volume taken up by the subwoofer) to install the sub in the front compartment. So... I decided if I want better bass, I'll upgrade the door speakers and put a 4-Channel on them. The subwoofer idea got axed and I went all storage, with two separate compartments.
Almost done... Double hinged lids hold themselves open....
Barrel bolts hold things closed....
Note... No intrusion on cargo space...
Existing mounting points.... utilized!!! I'm going to replace the top bolt with a wing nut on one side, so that removal of this mounting point will be as simple as spinning the wing nut off.
These are 3" screws (basically extended length versions of the stock hardware), securing the box via the the mounting holes of the cargo cover bracket, which was removed (It took me two tries to drill the holes in the right spots).
After removing the wing nut at the rear mounting point, I just have to remove the two screws in the front compartment using a stubby phillips head and out she comes! Quick/Easy install/removal, CHECK! :banana:
Front compartment....
Rear compartment... BTW, the contoured ends of the lids serve two purposes; 1) They allow the lids to open as close to vertically as possible by reducing interference between the lids and the back window, and 2) they keep the lids centered when closed.
The view from the the driver's side rear door....
And with the seat up...
Alright... More free time = more work on the 4Runner. So it goes lately.
I've always wished that 4Runners had more interior storage. The solution? A custom built cargo box, right? The typical cargo box build does not suit my needs. I dont want to be hassling with removing/re-installing/building a sleeping platform, I don't feel the need to take everything in my garage with me on trips, and I like having the rear area free down to the carpet for hauling tall items in the back.
My goals:
1. Gain extra space for stowing tow straps, chains, tools, first aid kit, etc, etc.
2. Make use of otherwise inefficiently used space.
3. Use existing mounting points on the vehicle.
4. Be quickly and easily removed/installed.
5. That the container must not intrude upon the vehicle's floor space.
My plan, use the otherwise inefficiently used space above the driver's side wheel well:
The execution of the plan:
The goal was to put a 10" subwoofer in the forward compartment of the cargo box. When it finally materialized and I was able to calculate the interior volume of the forward compartment, it turned out I only had about 0.5 cubic feet. I needed 0.6 (not including the volume taken up by the subwoofer) to install the sub in the front compartment. So... I decided if I want better bass, I'll upgrade the door speakers and put a 4-Channel on them. The subwoofer idea got axed and I went all storage, with two separate compartments.
Fast forward :zoom:
Almost done... Double hinged lids hold themselves open....
Barrel bolts hold things closed....
Note... No intrusion on cargo space...
Existing mounting points.... utilized!!! I'm going to replace the top bolt with a wing nut on one side, so that removal of this mounting point will be as simple as spinning the wing nut off.
These are 3" screws (basically extended length versions of the stock hardware), securing the box via the the mounting holes of the cargo cover bracket, which was removed (It took me two tries to drill the holes in the right spots).
After removing the wing nut at the rear mounting point, I just have to remove the two screws in the front compartment using a stubby phillips head and out she comes! Quick/Easy install/removal, CHECK! :banana:
Front compartment....
Rear compartment... BTW, the contoured ends of the lids serve two purposes; 1) They allow the lids to open as close to vertically as possible by reducing interference between the lids and the back window, and 2) they keep the lids centered when closed.
The view from the the driver's side rear door....
And with the seat up...
Last edited:
BigFishAllDay
New member
Fire Extinguisher/Maglight mounting...
Now, what to do w/the space between the box and the rear door??? :shrug:
How about this?
And the overall finished product...
I figured I'd put some stuff in there and see how much this thing can hold. Turns out that it holds quite a bit. (That's a socket set, some screwdrivers, roll of duct tape, a tap and some bolts for another project, and the stock cargo cover end peice, with room to spare)
On this side, a 30'x3" recovery strap, 3 road flares, a bag full of wrenches, extensions, and pliers, another socket set, a folding shovel, and a 4-way lug wrench... with room to spare!
Finally, one thing I wondered about was whether or not I could mount a fire extinguisher in a hot vehicle without it bursting. I went to the manufacturer's website and they stated that the FE can be stored anywhere from -40 degrees to 120 degrees F, as noted on the label...
I figured it would get hotter than 120F inside the truck on summer days so I looked into it a little further. It turns out that for a FE to be UL certified, it must be able to withstand storage temps of up to 175 degrees F. The info on the label would support this data, being that the FE is pressurized to 100 PSI, and the label notes that they are tested to 300 PSI.
Just for kicks, I put it in a tupperware and I'm going to bake it in the vehicle for a couple days to be sure. If it bursts, it'll burst inside the tupperware and keep my cleanup to a minimum.
Now, what to do w/the space between the box and the rear door??? :shrug:
How about this?
And the overall finished product...
I figured I'd put some stuff in there and see how much this thing can hold. Turns out that it holds quite a bit. (That's a socket set, some screwdrivers, roll of duct tape, a tap and some bolts for another project, and the stock cargo cover end peice, with room to spare)
On this side, a 30'x3" recovery strap, 3 road flares, a bag full of wrenches, extensions, and pliers, another socket set, a folding shovel, and a 4-way lug wrench... with room to spare!
Finally, one thing I wondered about was whether or not I could mount a fire extinguisher in a hot vehicle without it bursting. I went to the manufacturer's website and they stated that the FE can be stored anywhere from -40 degrees to 120 degrees F, as noted on the label...
I figured it would get hotter than 120F inside the truck on summer days so I looked into it a little further. It turns out that for a FE to be UL certified, it must be able to withstand storage temps of up to 175 degrees F. The info on the label would support this data, being that the FE is pressurized to 100 PSI, and the label notes that they are tested to 300 PSI.
Just for kicks, I put it in a tupperware and I'm going to bake it in the vehicle for a couple days to be sure. If it bursts, it'll burst inside the tupperware and keep my cleanup to a minimum.
Smog-guy707
New member
i dont think your 4runner can get anymore badass
BrianSD_42
New member
hmmm I think you might have done it wrong. that box looks slightly bent. Better send it to me for inspection
BigFishAllDay
New member
:thanks:
hmmm I think you might have done it wrong. that box looks slightly bent. Better send it to me for inspection
imp:
awdjunkies
New member
hmmm I think you might have done it wrong. that box looks slightly bent. Better send it to me for inspection
:thumb3::thumb3: My sentiments exactly.
ameining
New member
BigFish,
How difficult was this install? It appears to be relatively easy, and I am thinking after doing my steering rack bushings that the sway bar bushings look like they could use an upgrade. Let me know
After that I hit the entire slider with a fresh coat of paint, and let it dry for the recommended 48 hours. I've noticed since I've had the sliders installed that they can get very slippery when wet. As a matter of fact, I slipped off the slider the first time I stepped on it to get in the truck. To solve that problem, I picked up some of this....
Also, I have the exact same concern with my sliders and was debating doing some sort of a grip tape on mine. How is this holding up, and do you recommend doing it?
BigFishAllDay
New member
ameining, the sway bar bushings are a walk in the park. Just do one side at a time. Take the nut off the top of the endlink to free up one side of the sway bar, then remove the stock endlink bushings. Next go to the frame and R&R the frame bushing on the same side. Then go back and put the new endlink bushings on and tighten up the nut. Repeat on the other side. Doing one side at a time keeps you from having to hold the sway bar up with one hand and tighten bolts w/the other, and helps to keep everything aligned. Undoing the endlink first gets you some play in the sway bar so you can get the frame bushings out easily.
The grip tape is holding up fine. Just be aware that if you add the grip tape, you have to be careful to not drag your leg on the sliders when you're getting in/out of the truck. That grip tape eats skin like a grinding wheel. I had to get used to avoiding it, and I got some good scrapes in the process. Now I just use the slider as a step when I get in/out of the truck.
PalmettoRunner
New member
Alright so when is the box going into production? :hungry:
ameining
New member
Adjustable strut
BigFish,
I read that you adjusted your Bilstein up front on the SS 1.2 system. I have the same kit, and have been debating doing that to mine. I like the rake, but would prefer another 1/2" to 1" up front to reduce some rubbing. What I have been reading is that the front should not come up any higher as it makes a large amount of stress on all the components up front. What are your thoughts, and was it pretty difficult? I assume it took a spring compressor, etc...spanner wrench?
Thanks
BigFish,
I read that you adjusted your Bilstein up front on the SS 1.2 system. I have the same kit, and have been debating doing that to mine. I like the rake, but would prefer another 1/2" to 1" up front to reduce some rubbing. What I have been reading is that the front should not come up any higher as it makes a large amount of stress on all the components up front. What are your thoughts, and was it pretty difficult? I assume it took a spring compressor, etc...spanner wrench?
Thanks
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