I want to sit at 23" all around

MyHigh

New member
Okay, my turn to beat the dead horse.

So right now I sit at 21" on all four corners.

I want to sit at 23" on all four, I chose 23" because I'm not going bigger then 265/70/17 I might do 255/70/17 in the future now that another manufacture is making them.

Tundra coils upfront yy/yb with tundra Billies probably 5100
890's in back with 4runner billies

I have been researching forever and am more confused then ever, so I need the help from you guys that have been their done that!

Will this setup give me 23" all around, and should the tundra billies be on the 2 notch from the bottom?

I'm okay with the rear being a little taller but no more then a 1"

I'm pretty set on the front cause I know with this setup I can make adjustments but the rear is giving me problems, might even do lc coils or 7 wraps I'm just not sure on what to do

Thanks for the info
 
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I'd go with OME906's in the back as they net 2" of lift. 890's will net 3" and will be over the 23" mark. For the front Tundra's and 5100's on the first perch will match the back nicely and ride great. That would look great with 265's.
 
I'd go with OME906's in the back as they net 2" of lift. 890's will net 3" and will be over the 23" mark. For the front Tundra's and 5100's on the first perch will match the back nicely and ride great. That would look great with 265's.

I would go with the 890's and get the 3". After driving this is going to settle some, maybe around 2.5".
 
I guess where all my confusion comes in is all the different heights the runners come in stock. With the 906's I've read you mainly net 2" of lift, so my way if thinking is because of the higher stock springs my 99 has I would get only 1" above what I all ready have. And so the 890's would give me 2" above what I have, assuming those numbers were derived for the standard height runners. Like always I end up over thinking things and cause a little question to become a thread that's been hashed out many of times before me from other members.


ScRunner12... I really like the look of your runner when you installed the duratracs I'm not opposed to being higher, I just want to avoid the problems of cv boot, and alignment problems that tend to pop up when sitting higher.
 
Well you went two different ways in your op. You mentioned being low then saying maybe LC coils. If you are trying to keep it to 32's and not deal with alignment and cv issues (I've had one boot rip since my lift was installed 3 years ago) then I'd go with 906's and Tundra/5100 on the first perch. It will keep everything close to the stock geometry and give you the best alignment specs without aftermarket UCA's. Once you get up to 3" you lose your caster and the cv's are at a higher angle. Your 99 talls also are probably a bit worn out and sag so you'll get over 1"

With Eibachs/5100 I'm at 24" I believe up front and ~24.5" in the back with superflex, but I also have 33's.

Like many have said in the past, once you lift it a little, you're going to want to go for the full 3". If I didn't wheel, I'd have a nice 2" lift with 32's as it's enough clearance for any weekend trip camping/light wheeling and will ride great for a DD. Also your power won't be effected all that much compared to 33's.
 
This is bit of topic, but can anyone tell me at what notch to set the tundra bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks with toytec eibach front coils to achieve 3" lift upfront. On toytec forum it says the coils are made to give 3" lift. The tundra bilsteins have 5 settings.
 
Thanks Robert!

For now I'm going with the 906's, the runner will mainly be used like you said for weekend trips camping and exploring Oregons back country. Also, like you mentioned I have a feeling I will want more lift in the future which is one reason why I'm going with the tundra upfront, I figure that way I will only need to deal with the rear lift. I'm debating on going with some LR UCA's right now, preparing for the higher lift later on.

Why don't I just bite the bullet and go all out?

Main reason for not going for the larger lift is tires, I recently had load E duratracs on not to long ago and just the extra 6 pounds really hurt my mileage and kept me in third on even the smallest of hills. With the load C duratracs in 265/79/17 I still get 20 on the freeway and am able to handle hills no problem without feeling the need for gears to boot.

Will my E-locker work just the same if I do gears?
Just for reference I added a pic.

Once again thanks for the help guys!
 

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This is bit of topic, but can anyone tell me at what notch to set the tundra bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks with toytec eibach front coils to achieve 3" lift upfront. On toytec forum it says the coils are made to give 3" lift. The tundra bilsteins have 5 settings.

I'd leave them at the lowest perch. I have heard of people using the second perch with the Tundra 5100's, but I'm not sure if that's advisable with a 4wd. I have mine on the lowest perch of the Tacoma 5100's and it's a full 3"

For now I'm going with the 906's, the runner will mainly be used like you said for weekend trips camping and exploring Oregons back country. Also, like you mentioned I have a feeling I will want more lift in the future which is one reason why I'm going with the tundra upfront, I figure that way I will only need to deal with the rear lift. I'm debating on going with some LR UCA's right now, preparing for the higher lift later on.

Why don't I just bite the bullet and go all out?

Main reason for not going for the larger lift is tires, I recently had load E duratracs on not to long ago and just the extra 6 pounds really hurt my mileage and kept me in third on even the smallest of hills. With the load C duratracs in 265/79/17 I still get 20 on the freeway and am able to handle hills no problem without feeling the need for gears to boot.

Will my E-locker work just the same if I do gears?
Just for reference I added a pic.

Once again thanks for the help guys!

Good call IMO. Since you won't be going to 33's anytime soon then I'd stick with the 906's. 890's pop up on the forums all the time if you wanted to upgrade and a lot of people look for the 906's so you should be able to offload them if you wanted.

With a full 3" you'll want to go for 33's and 32's look great with a little lift. You can still use your locker no problem if you regear. You just have to buy the gears for the 8" e-locker rear diff and you're good to go.
 
I'd leave them at the lowest perch. I have heard of people using the second perch with the Tundra 5100's, but I'm not sure if that's advisable with a 4wd. I have mine on the lowest perch of the Tacoma 5100's and it's a full 3"



Good call IMO. Since you won't be going to 33's anytime soon then I'd stick with the 906's. 890's pop up on the forums all the time if you wanted to upgrade and a lot of people look for the 906's so you should be able to offload them if you wanted.

With a full 3" you'll want to go for 33's and 32's look great with a little lift. You can still use your locker no problem if you regear. You just have to buy the gears for the 8" e-locker rear diff and you're good to go.
You got eibachs ?
 
Just out of curiosity what are the measuring points? Maybe I'm odd but when i think 23" this is what I see!!



23" to the bottom of the frame..
 
Will my E-locker work just the same if I do gears?

Yup.

I went from the stock Highlander coils to OME 880/906s, and I just clear 265/75/16 Duratracs at stuff with no other mods. I don't know where you're measuring 23" at either, but if you'll give me reference point I'll tell you where mine compares.
 
Just out of curiosity what are the measuring points? Maybe I'm odd but when i think 23" this is what I see!!

23" to the bottom of the frame..


I believe when they are talking about 23" they are talking from the center of the hub straight up to the fender.

But maybe i'm wrong.
 
No, I totally agree!

It's like those people that will drive 10 miles out of their way to get gas that's .10 cheaper then the station right by the house. WTF so you saved a dollar!! Right on, it wasted 30 minutes of your day.

My problem is my truck is a manual with 4.10 gears and it really struggles with anything bigger then 265/70/17 just to much weight at that point. 3" lift is still in the back of my mind and still has a very good chance of being ordered from wheelers offload. Its just it kinda looks goofy with 32" tires, I'm also going in for a second back surgery here next month and I struggle to get into the rig with it sitting at 21" as it sits now.

So being optimistic, I will recover from surgery and feel great and not have anymore problems, run 255/70/17's. I think that's the size? Whatever the BFG rubicon wrangler tires are ( kinda partial to pizza cutters) plus side is I get closer to 33" tires without the weight.

Gears,gears,gears,......I know it's the answer to my problems but I'm not sure I want to go down that road.

I want my rig to be a adventure, exploring rig, not a double black diamond jeep trail rig.
 
Ok, so with 880/906s and no extra load I'm at 21.5 in front and 22 in back from the hub to the bottom of the flare.

And if you're trying to clear a skinny 33, that's not nearly enough. Our last set of tires was 285/75r16s, and they rubbed frame and mudflap.
 
Just out of curiosity what are the measuring points? Maybe I'm odd but when i think 23" this is what I see!!



23" to the bottom of the frame..

Man love the rig!!

Yes, sorry I just automatically assume the hub to fender measurement as being the way to go. So yes 23" from center hub to bottom of the fender.
 
After having both the Tundras and the Eibachs my suggestion is get the Eibachs if you ever think you will get a winch and front bumper. My bumper is a very heavy plate bumper. That along with the 9.5 warn was too much for the Tundras.
 

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