ICON C/O Adjustment Questions

[SAC-CA-Runner]

So I'm picking up a set of C/O's and Overland 3" Rear Springs with the 2.5" CDCV Rear Shocks thru the MRT GB. I was wondering where people were running their collars on the front shocks to maintain a level height? In other words...how much threads are showing? I know everyone's cars are different as they may have a V6, V8, front bumper, etc. I'm a V8 with nothing on the front so any help would be appreciated so I don't have to guess.

Also...anything else I should look at replacing while I'm in there? I'm doing SPC UCA's, but was thinking of doing my Inner and Outer TRE's (Moog) and possibly the LBJ's (Moog), taking off the front sway bar, adding stainless brake lines front and extended rear, and extended sway links in the rear. I'm at 157k so I'm thinking it's time for those because of mileage and not so much failure. The brakes were just done before I bought the 4R so those are good. Maybe Energy sway bushings for the rear? That's all I can really think of. Should I look at bump stops? Metaltech? Wheelers? Are they really needed? I'm going to be adding air bags later on, but that's not till next year so that can wait.

Thanks for the suggestions and advice!

 

[Inv4drZm]

Depends on the "look" you want and what you define as level i.e. frame vs wheel wells.

With the 3" rear coils you will probably get close to maxing out the front at 2.5" of threads showing if you go for the level wheel-well look. A bit less for the level frame look.

The beauty of the collar-adjustable coilovers is that they are just as simple (way easier in-fact) to adjust on the vehicle with a spanner wrench. From my experience they would be difficult to adjust outside the vehicle unless you had a fixture to hold them.

You don't need the Metaltech bump stop extensions, those are for the metaltech long-travel spec shocks and would limit your travel if you have 33's or smaller. The Wheeler's bump stops are a nice cushion in the front but only noticeable if you bottom out your suspension hard or frequently.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Depends on the "look" you want and what you define as level i.e. frame vs wheel wells.

With the 3" rear coils you will probably get close to maxing out the front at 2.5" of threads showing if you go for the level wheel-well look. A bit less for the level frame look.

The beauty of the collar-adjustable coilovers is that they are just as simple (way easier in-fact) to adjust on the vehicle with a spanner wrench. From my experience they would be difficult to adjust outside the vehicle unless you had a fixture to hold them.

You don't need the Metaltech bump stop extensions, those are for the metaltech long-travel spec shocks and would limit your travel if you have 33's or smaller. The Wheeler's bump stops are a nice cushion in the front but only noticeable if you bottom out your suspension hard or frequently.

Awesome...thanks. I "think" I'm going for the level frame look. I just don't like the nose down or nose up/sagging rear look. I know it'll take some tweaking, but wanted a good start point. I usually start high and come down as I noticed with CO's in the past on my 3rd Gen 4Runner and Audi's that adjusting down was always easier.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I would see if you can get the instructions for installation from ICON's website and use their instructions as a reference.

 

[HiVel-JR]

So I'm picking up a set of C/O's and Overland 3" Rear Springs with the 2.5" CDCV Rear Shocks thru the MRT GB.

Also...anything else I should look at replacing while I'm in there?

Good choice on the set up. The rear 2.5 CDCV option is the way to go. Takes the jolt out of the rear when going over speed bumps etc. I should have bought that the first time around installing icons. (2nd set)

For the front. I think I am close to 2 1/4 inches from the top cylinder thread to the top of the rotating collar. 6 maybe 7 full turns of the collar (use the small hex bolt as a reference) if I remember right. it has a slight nose down, almost level. I could go higher, 9 or 10 turns, but it might be nose high. (> 2 1/2 inches.)

So during my build, I learned I had to extend the brake lines font and rear. (use stainless steel ones... why not?) Kept the sway bars on and replaced the sway bar links. I think shorter links in the front and longer links in the rear. (See my build because I sort of built off of others designs.)

I also used my cornfed 1 inch spacer from my previous spacer lift on the driver side rear with the 3 inch heavy duty springs to get rid of the "lean" so that worked much to my surprise, but made getting that rear spring in damn near impossible.

If you got the money... i say get the bump stops. Not sure if you will need them, but they are cool.

Just curious, why air bags? i figure for towing, but with the heavy rear springs you should be good to go.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

So during my build, I learned I had to extend the brake lines font and rear. (use stainless steel ones... why not?) Kept the sway bars on and replaced the sway bar links. I think shorter links in the front and longer links in the rear. (See my build because I sort of built off of others designs.)

If you got the money... i say get the bump stops. Not sure if you will need them, but they are cool.

Just curious, why air bags? i figure for towing, but with the heavy rear springs you should be good to go.

Extended front lines? That's the first I've heard of that. I'm getting some made right now on a group buy. I'm wondering if I should ask him to throw on an extra half an inch or so. Hmmmm. I know I'm going longer links in the rear and was looking at shorter fronts so maybe I'll make some of those as well.

As for bump stops...I was just going to get the rubber ones, not the ones that go inside of the springs. I wanted to leave that area open for air springs. Reason for that is, like you, I'm going to go with the Wilco Hitchgate and I'm going to need to tow every so often. But if you think the springs can handle it without air that's fine with me. Saves me money!

I actually tracked your thread before...any other tips besides the 3/8" bit and Dewalt extension you can think of to make it easy. It seems my LBJ looks in great shape so I may just do inner and outer TRE and sway bushings. Even all those don't look too bad but want to firm it up a little and if I have to get an alignment I may as well do it now.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Only last thing I can think of is the Icon sway relocating bracket...does that come with the CO's or do I need to buy that? Hmmmm....

 

[blackoutt]

should come with them if needed. hopefully you get your spanner too. I'm still getting snubbed on that.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

should come with them if needed. hopefully you get your spanner too. I'm still getting snubbed on that.

OK...well I hope what I bought comes with them. I mean I did go with the 3" lift. Guess I will find out tonight. Same with the spanner as I've read in other threads that other people have been waiting for those for a while. What are ya'll using to adjust then? Slip joint pliers?

 

[LC2013]

OK...well I hope what I bought comes with them. I mean I did go with the 3" lift. Guess I will find out tonight. Same with the spanner as I've read in other threads that other people have been waiting for those for a while. What are ya'll using to adjust then? Slip joint pliers?

A 5/16 punch works well I found.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Rodtheviking]

Don't forget the anti-seize.

 

[blackoutt]

A 5/16 punch works well I found.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Yep I got fed up and bought a spanner but it was too big to easily fit around the remote reservoir line and have any sort of throw. Ended up using a punch. Make sure if there's a pinch bolt on any collar that you loosen that bolt and turn the collar so that the head of the bolt is facing outwards when you install, otherwise you'll be doing it twice!

 

[HiVel-JR]

Extended front lines? That's the first I've heard of that. I'm getting some made right now on a group buy. I'm wondering if I should ask him to throw on an extra half an inch or so.

As for bump stops...I was just going to get the rubber ones, not the ones that go inside of the springs. I wanted to leave that area open for air springs. Reason for that is, like you, I'm going to go with the Wilco Hitchgate and I'm going to need to tow every so often. But if you think the springs can handle it without air that's fine with me. Saves me money!

I actually tracked your thread before...any other tips besides the 3/8" bit and Dewalt extension you can think of to make it easy. It seems my LBJ looks in great shape so I may just do inner and outer TRE and sway bushings. Even all those don't look too bad but want to firm it up a little and if I have to get an alignment I may as well do it now.

Yeah, at full droop on the car jack my front brake lines were stretching past their limits... it did not look right to me so i swapped them out. I think i ordered TOYTEC lines.

Yup, the heavy rear springs will do the trick. I have a cargo carrier as well that i put on the hitchgate. I had 300 pounds on it the other weekend... no issues or sag in the back. m (Crappy pic, but had office chairs and all kinds of wood on back for hunting club)

 

[Porqupine82]

OK...well I hope what I bought comes with them. I mean I did go with the 3" lift. Guess I will find out tonight. Same with the spanner as I've read in other threads that other people have been waiting for those for a while. What are ya'll using to adjust then? Slip joint pliers?

It comes with the kit. I didn't know this and bought the sway bar relocate separate... returned it no problem

 

[HiVel-JR]

Just some pointers if you get the Icon Spanner.

I bent mine first time because i am a D/A....

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Just some pointers if you get the Icon Spanner.

I bent mine first time because i am a D/A....

HAHA...thanks! So I don't have my Hitchgate yet. Did you run the Overland springs without any weight and were they rough? That is one reason I got the CDCV shocks to help with that until I got the Hitchgate, drawers system, roof rack, RTT (eventually).

I PM'd the guy doing the brake lines so hopefully he can extend them an inch. Guess I'll find out. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[HiVel-JR]

HAHA...thanks! So I don't have my Hitchgate yet. Did you run the Overland springs without any weight and were they rough? That is one reason I got the CDCV shocks to help with that until I got the Hitchgate, drawers system, roof rack, RTT (eventually).

Oh yes... those springs (ICON-5-2800) will jolt your teeth out when driving over the speed bumps in the Wal-Mart parking lot. It still hops around if i floor it while making left turns. But the rear CDCV really does settle them down.

 

[SAC-CA-Runner]

Oh yes... those springs (ICON-5-2800) will jolt your teeth out when driving over the speed bumps in the Wal-Mart parking lot. It still hops around if i floor it while making left turns. But the rear CDCV really does settle them down.

Hmmmm....wonder if I should have went with the 2" springs and air bags instead. I want something driveable as I do a lot more on road driving than offroad driving. I just didn't want sag with the eventual Hitchgate, storage and RTT. So it was either the 52800 or the 2" with bags...which would probably have to stay aired up with the add ons. So they are still rough even with your Hitchgate and spare?

 

[HiVel-JR]

Hmmmm....wonder if I should have went with the 2" springs and air bags instead. I want something driveable as I do a lot more on road driving than offroad driving. I just didn't want sag with the eventual Hitchgate, storage and RTT. So it was either the 52800 or the 2" with bags...which would probably have to stay aired up with the add ons. So they are still rough even with your Hitchgate and spare?

Actually they are fine. You did fine with the 3". Really it is more the front coil overs that bounces around under acceleration from a stop when turning left or right. The hitch gate will help things as well.

 

[BOFFROAD]

I have the 2" coils in the rear and the collar on my front coilovers is maxed out. My coilovers have the standard 650lb springs. It still has a slight rake and I would like to get the front level with the rear but I think the 700lb springs would be needed for that due to the weight of the V8 and the front differential but by doing that I would worry about a rough ride.

BTW I don't haul much in the rear.