Ideal motor swap for 2002 T4R

xcmountain80

New member
My vehicle is on it's 3rd motor (1st one was swapped because I had a younger one sitting around), second motor blew holes in the block, and the third has an odd sound like a main bearing.

I've considered following Singtoes lead with a 2UZ (4.7 V8) but it comes with it's challenges I think the tranny and t-case must go with it and I think the output on the tcase is on the opposite side mine is now. I'd like the second iteration of the tranny in the 5spd auto like in my 05 Sequoia.

Another option was a crate 350 but I'm. It seeing an adapter for the A340E transmission I have. So maybe a 5spd Toyota manual with a J pattern tcase.

Yet another option is to fix the bearing or whatever it is source the oil leak and supercharge it with some goodies.....
 
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After reading Singtoes amazing thread I would vote for the 2UZ option. It looks like a lot of work but very rewarding too.
 
Another option was a crate 350 but I'm. It seeing an adapter for the A340E transmission I have. So maybe a 5spd Toyota manual with a J pattern tcase.

Yet another option is to fix the bearing or whatever it is source the oil leak and supercharge it with some goodies.....

Having done several V8 swaps, always Chevy motors, I would say don't do that. Don't get me wrong, I love my Vortec, and I am an ardent supporter of the original small block.
But this is not the same world we were in when I started doing small block conversions. Back then no other motor made sense. Today the options for Toyota engines make it the best choice. While not quite as standardized as GM, Toyota does a lot of things that make sense to us buildaholics. I don't envision a time I'd swap a V8 in to my own 3rd gen, but if I did, I'd follow [MENTION=100288]Sin[/MENTION]getoe 's lead.

Or fix it
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the A340 has the same bolt pattern as the R150F? I know we pulled the motor out of a 5-speed 4runner and it bolted right up to an auto. So those adapters you see for the 5-speed should work for an auto too, or at least, so logic would dictate.

I don't know about swap laws in FL, but if you're required to do something same/newer than your stock motor, I would look at a 5.3 vortec. If you're allowed to go older, I would look at 5.7 TBI and throw a grand or so into power mods (this thing was deliberately built to be anemic by GM). Super simple engine and you can carry everything you need to replace the entire FI system in your cargo cubby. Call me ghetto :D
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the A340 has the same bolt pattern as the R150F? I know we pulled the motor out of a 5-speed 4runner and it bolted right up to an auto. So those adapters you see for the 5-speed should work for an auto too, or at least, so logic would dictate. :D

I'll check the bell housing tonight
 
[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] took his t-case from his 4runner I believe and he said the tranny is the same just beafed up a bit. I'd do a 2uz swap. Or fix the noise and fallow [MENTION=75824]Clownmeat[/MENTION]'s build.
 
A swap requires a lot of time, money and knowledge. I hope you have plenty of all 3.

My advice, save yourself the frustration and headaches, rebuild the 3.4, become completely familiar with that motor and build it how you want so if a problem comes up, you will know how to address it.

But what do I know.
 
First off, I love your rig [MENTION=68504]xcmountain80[/MENTION], I've been drooling over it since before I even started building my rig and spent countless hours researching on Yotatech. From what I remember you mostly overland/camp right? Have you considered a diesel swap? Maybe 1KZT-E?
 
[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION] took his t-case from his 4runner I believe and he said the tranny is the same just beafed up a bit. I'd do a 2uz swap. [MENTION=75824]Clownmeat[/MENTION]'s build.



His is a 4spd auto from the first available versions of the Tundra and Sequoia setup. The 2005 has the most HP 281'ish and 1st year with the available 5spd auto in the sequoia. If nothing is drastically different if consider keeping the stock tranny (Rebuilding the A340E from IPT TRANSMISSIONS out if New Jersey).
 
Wow...something must be in the air...your like the 4th or 5th guy that's been talking about an engine swap or supercharging....I'm one of them..lol!! I decided...at least for the time being...to go with a supercharger. My decision was based off down time (I use my rig as a D/D right now until I finish my D-Max build). I figured if I'm unhappy with the Supercharger I can always sale it for what I paid for it (bought it used), but I might lose out on the 7th injector kit.

I too was looking at the Chevy swap...but I'd never go with old school 350! I was looking at the 5.3...puts out 300+ hp, can have an all aluminum engine and capable of getting 20+ mpg in our rigs! And as long as you get a complete pullout, your looking at 3-5 wires to hook up and your running legally in all 50 states.

I'm sure the Toyota V-8 engines have a lot of pro's...I just don't know them. I talked to Singtoe who advised to get a whole vehicle to do the swap...now I know he made money on his swap...but every Toyota donor vehicle I've come across has been big money!

Anyway...good luck with your decision and better luck with your build. Whatever you do...please keep us posted with lots of pic's!
 
How about.... the 4.0L Toyota V6? There's got to be a catch, price I'm betting or fitment b/c I think it's a lot longer engine than the 3.4L, because I have yet to see this swap in anything. My younger brother had a 2010 Taco' TRD and I've got to say that was the fastest stock toyota I've driven, that motor is a blast, sounds great too.
 
I too was looking at the Chevy swap...but I'd never go with old school 350! I was looking at the 5.3...puts out 300+ hp, can have an all aluminum engine and capable of getting 20+ mpg in our rigs! And as long as you get a complete pullout, your looking at 3-5 wires to hook up and your running legally in all 50 states.

I did a 5.3 swap and it was a whole lot more than 3-5 wires. The later 5.3 has a fly by wire throttle which requires a module and the Body Control Module to operate, this in turn sends serial data to the ECM. I had to upgrade the fuel pump, the original Toyota pump operated at 45psi, with a max of 60psi, the GM system required 55 to 80 psi. The GM fuel module also has a pressure sensor(necessary for the evap system), and the level sensor communicates with the ECM as well. In order to be emissions legal the full evap system must be in place and functional. I used the GM engine bay fuse block which allows you to use it as the junction point for almost all the connections. I spent a lot of time removing wires that I would not use, ie all the GM body functions. That allowed me to use some of the open relays for accessories like fog and driving lights etc..
Physically the issues were typical of any engine swap. The left side exhaust manifold sat right against the frame. I had the "head" side face machined at a slight angle to roll the bottom away from the frame, which necessitated some wedge spacers on the bolts. PIA to deal with, but once done, it's done. I built a fan shroud from a Tahoe shroud. Putting fittings on the plastic evap hoses was another pain, barbed JIC fittings and a heat gun solved it for me.
I adapted the Toyota T/C and that was fairly straight forward, but the Advance Adapter's block leaks gear oil, I've had the thing apart so many times I could rebuild it in my sleep, but no matter what I do, it leaks.
Other than that it was 5K and 5months well spent.
 
If your going to swap a motor, make it a Toyota.


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The Toyota V8 is so smooth.

Swimmerboy2112 A swap requires a lot of time, money and knowledge. I hope you have plenty of all 3.

My advice, save yourself the frustration and headaches, rebuild the 3.4, become completely familiar with that motor and build it how you want so if a problem comes up, you will know how to address it.

But what do I know.

It took me time and maybe a little bit of knowledge but my swap made me money.
 
besides this being a not so normal thread, the 3.4 motor is one of the best most durable motors toyota has made! I know people with well over 200k and still running like a top and I dont think my cel has ever been on the past 2 years of having her. On one hand it would be way cheaper just to fix the 3.4, but like every one mentioned if you have the $$$$, time, and Know how the vvti 2uz would be an amazing!!!!!



A swap requires a lot of time, money and knowledge. I hope you have plenty of all 3.

My advice, save yourself the frustration and headaches, rebuild the 3.4, become completely familiar with that motor and build it how you want so if a problem comes up, you will know how to address it.

But what do I know.

X2 dont forget about all the frustration down the road of fixing problems and getting parts after the swap!
 
I'm getting a clearer picture as to what may be involved. I'm very familiar with the 3.4 over 1/4 million miles logged with this vehicle. Where I keep ending up and getting all shy like a boys first dance with a extremely attractive girl (excitement included).

2uz with goodies, less a whole vehicle, + time ....$3000-4000 maybe

Supercharger $2899 ......fix that god awful rattle +\- $1000
 
I'm getting a clearer picture as to what may be involved. I'm very familiar with the 3.4 over 1/4 million miles logged with this vehicle. Where I keep ending up and getting all shy like a boys first dance with a extremely attractive girl (excitement included).

2uz with goodies, less a whole vehicle, + time ....$3000-4000 maybe

Supercharger $2899 ......fix that god awful rattle +\- $1000

I think you could supercharge for less than that . . . even with the urd 7th injector. Ive seen several complete supercharger kits for sale over the past few years on cg for 1200-1500. Then what, 700 for the injector
 

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