Inner Tie Rod Removal and Installation

so i looked up OEM inner tie rods.................. $170 EACH!!!

you have got to be kidding me, thats :crazy:

i cant imagine spending over $300 on 2 parts that are basically nuts and bolts connected by a ball joint
 
so i looked up OEM inner tie rods.................. $170 EACH!!!

you have got to be kidding me, thats :crazy:

i cant imagine spending over $300 on 2 parts that are basically nuts and bolts connected by a ball joint

I got my inner tierods at Napa with 555 on the box. They were the more expensive of the 2 altrom import options but no where near that price.
 
Had a bad experience with a failed alignment at Firestone today. I had to leave the 4runner there overnight and wil have to get it tomorrow.
The Tech was trying to adjust the Tie Rod using a Vice Grip!!!
To add insult to injury he was tightening the Tie Rod lock nut rather than loosening it and in the end after I pointed out to him that he was tightening it he still couldn't break it free.
He also was Not countering the force he was applying in anyway.
I am wondering if it is possible to damage the INTRE and the Ball joint by over tightening the Tie Rod adjustment lock nut?
Thanks

The only part that might suffer is the outer tierod end but more than likely it is ok as long as the nut isn't rounded off.
 
so i looked up OEM inner tie rods.................. $170 EACH!!!

you have got to be kidding me, thats :crazy:

i cant imagine spending over $300 on 2 parts that are basically nuts and bolts connected by a ball joint

You can get OEM ITRs via the internet for $125 each. But when you can get other ones for much cheaper, I'd go the latter route, especially since they are easy to change.

Only downside is that an alignment is usually needed after a ITR change.
 
These are the ones I got but they were around $55 last year or maybe $65. I remember because I had a conversation with the guy at the counter. He brought out the other altrom inner tierods that are $45 just for comparison sake but for only $20 more I went with the 555 senkei altrom part.

NAPA AUTO PARTS
 
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Thanks for the write up! Just changed my outer tie rod. Inner was still good. Professional inspector told me it was just the outer. Took me about 1 hour. First time for this kind of work. My neighbor thinks I'm a mechanic.
+1 for my tire shop giving me a free alignment.

Also, I used the 555 from NAPA. They have two different "levels". I got the more expensive one.
 
replacing inner tie rod or boot? don't remove outer tie rod from steering knuckle

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Replaced tie rod boot today. Did not need to separate outer tie rod end from knuckle. The inner tie rod is a ball and socket joint. It spins. I used 2 pipe wrenches to unscrew/separate inner and outer tie rods. One pipe wrench held the outer tie rod jam nut. Used second wrench to unscrew threaded (outer) end of inner tie rod. The jam nut did not budge because I was using the first wrench to counteract the force applied from the second wrench. I was holding the first wrench still while pulling on the second wrench.
Once bond between jam nut and threaded end is broken you can continue unscrewing the the inner tie rod. Only resistance was from the rubber boot. If you are installing a new boot, just cut old one in two. If reusing existing boot just use your other hand to rotate the the other end where the large clamp wraps around the end of the steering rack . If the boot is sticking to the steering rack spray a bit of silicone or boeshield or whatever between boot end and steering rack end.
Actually, ignore that. Just remove the clamp from the steering rack end. Voila, finish unscrewing the inner tie rod from the outer tie rod.
2 benefits. 1) no need to hassle with the outer tie rod/steering knuckle bolt removal/separation process. 2) Assuming replacement inner tie rod is properly spec'd and the same length as old one there will be no need to hassle with new alignment. The threaded end of the inner tie rod will end up in the exact same place because it will stop when it hits the outer tie rod jam nut, which has not budged a micro millimeter. Wanna back up plan? mark position of jam nut before unscrewing inner and outer tie rods with magic marker in case it does break loose from the threads and moves a bit.
I spent 45 minutes+ trying to separate outer tie rod from knuckle without doing any damage. Realized i could just unscrew inner and outer tie rods from each other. OMG. made the process so simple, so easy, so quick. I felt like a magical mechanical spatially gifted genius.
Maybe this is a known procedure but I don't recall reading about it.
Truck on jack stands, obv., lift jack under lower control arm to raise it up. Have no idea if this is relevant. Just saying because it was part of the procedure.
 
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These are the ones I got but they were around $55 last year or maybe $65. I remember because I had a conversation with the guy at the counter. He brought out the other altrom inner tierods that are $45 just for comparison sake but for only $20 more I went with the 555 senkei altrom part.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Check this out - Got to 555 brand from Autozone for $27 each. Made in Japan. Just got done changing LBJ, both inner and outer tie rods. Also painted Tundra 231mm brakes.

Camel Toyota - No tax, free shipping
LBJ - $80 each
OTRE - $46 each

Autozone - ITRE - $27
 

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Thanks for the write up. I am ready to do....lbj's, inner & outer tie rods, rack bushings, and rack guide all in one shot. Hopefully it drives better. lol Bump so I can find it. :hatsoff:
 
Just did my Inner Tie rods both side today and it was super easy(2 hrs). Any way I want to know what is a beefier tie rod end too replace with?
 
No reason to use loctite on this.
some inners come with loctite. i think whatever it takes to keep it from backing off.
I used black zip-ties as well for the inner clamp. A few thousand miles and a half-dozen runs to the beach and they are still hanging on.
yup. this, been doing it this way for years.



I ended up using zipties. The steering rack has a lip that the boot pops on and I feel those plastic zip ties are more than enough to hold it in place.
yep, you can get the ziptie tight enough.
 
I see the washer is bent down on the ITR next to the steering shaft. I assume that's to keep it from coming loose. Would some blue loctite work just as well? Or would that do more harm that good in that it would put too much stress on the steering shaft when you go to remove the ITR next time you replace it?

Same question for the OTR. Would blue loctite help between the inner and outer tie rods? Or do more harm than good?

Or should I only use blue loctite where the OTR attaches to the LBJ?

don't need it. the washer serves the purpose of locking in the inner. the outer uses the cotter key.
 
Spongerx,
I`m sure you`re tired of everyone saying THANKS !

So, I won`t say it............ I`ll just tip an adult beverage in you honor. 8-)
 

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