Installing rear air chuck - hatch power?

[Okki]

So I tried to complete the installation of a air chuck in the rear of the truck and i ran into two problems/questions.

The face plate installation went just fine, but then I found out that all my brass fittings are wrong because the air hose is 0.375 inch outer diameter meaning it doesn't fit the 1/4 NPT fittings I currently have (the label on the hose must be referencing 1/4 inner diameter; not outer).

Anyway, I ordered new fittings but I also still need a power source to power the light in the gauge when the hatch is open. Is there anything near the driver side wheel rear wheel well, or do I need to access the rear hatch switch? Anyone have any suggestions/pics?

I'm guessing I'm going to have to pull the trim off the C-pillar and come of the switch. Anyone know which wire?

Okki

 

[Titanpat57]

if you find the black wire in the trailer harness...that should be hot all the time

 

[Okki]

if you find the black wire in the trailer harness...that should be hot all the time

Thanks Pat. I'm trying to make it hatch switched in order to save the bulb instead of it being on all the time. I've also been thinking about adding some strip LED lighting that is powered by the same source.

I'm thinking the tracks in which you can install the cargo cover are a great place to recess them into.

Okki

 

[eddiebx]

Thanks Pat. I'm trying to make it hatch switched in order to save the bulb instead of it being on all the time. I've also been thinking about adding some strip LED lighting that is powered by the same source.

I'm thinking the tracks in which you can install the cargo cover are a great place to recess them into.

Okki

If I am understanding you correctly, you're trying to find a switched power source that comes on only when the tailgate is up (kind of like the two dome lights in the tailgate)?

If I recall correctly those two lamps are being fed by the multiplex ecu (that's in the tailgate) so I am not sure if you're going to be able to find those wires you're looking for in the rear wheel well...might have to dig into the tailgate.

What if you wired the light to be switched by the compressor? Then it wouldn't be on all the time (I know much easier said than done running a wire from one end of the vehicle to the other)

 

[jangoforhire]

99% sure you're not gonna find that without taking the tailgate apart and running a wire back out through it. My gauge back there is only lit when I turn my rear panel on (through the rear panel activation switch). I did think about doing exactly what you're thinking to provide light for the panel activation switch, but figured it wasn't worth the trouble and just wired the illumination for that switch to the dash lights.

 

[Okki]

Thanks [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] and [MENTION=78705]jangoforhire[/MENTION]. If I have to run a wire from the tailgate back into the cab, I won't go there. Running a lead from the compressor switch isn't that big a deal so that's a great suggestion; although that doesn't help me with the aux-trunk lights that I wanted to pre-wire at the same time.

I'll have a to take a closer look at things some time this week. Thanks guys!

Okki

 

[mikebontoft]

do trailer lights come on dim light tail lights do when he headlights are on? I imagine they would have to. That would mean there's a switched power in the trailer harness.

Same for the tail light circuit. Or if you want it on with the dome lights as mentioned above, pop out the dome light and use one of those suitcase taps to get your power (and ground if the multiplex grounds the circuit to turn them on) it would be reversible at least (ugh I hate saying this because I despise anything that isn't soldering).

 

[Okki]

do trailer lights come on dim light tail lights do when he headlights are on? I imagine they would have to. That would mean there's a switched power in the trailer harness.

Same for the tail light circuit. Or if you want it on with the dome lights as mentioned above, pop out the dome light and use one of those suitcase taps to get your power (and ground if the multiplex grounds the circuit to turn them on) it would be reversible at least (ugh I hate saying this because I despise anything that isn't soldering).

All options, but those are switched with the exterior lights. That gauge does not have to be on unless the hatch is open and I'm running air. I'm not anywhere near my truck right now, but I was hoping on a push button switch similar to the ones in the passenger door posts. when the door closes it compresses the switch and cuts the circuit. If the rear hatch has a similar switch, I can simply tie into the outbound pole of that. If that switch is mounted in either of the D-pillars, it should be fairly easy to get to.

the dome light only comes on when the passenger doors are open. I don't believe the rear hatch triggers it, so that's not an option.

I think at this point I need to stop thinking and start looking at what's there. or if one of you guys is close to your truck, open the rear hatch for me and see if there are any push switches mounted to the body that would be activated by the hatch opening and closing.

Okki

 

[eddiebx]

All options, but those are switched with the exterior lights. That gauge does not have to be on unless the hatch is open and I'm running air. I'm not anywhere near my truck right now, but I was hoping on a push button switch similar to the ones in the passenger door posts. when the door closes it compresses the switch and cuts the circuit. If the rear hatch has a similar switch, I can simply tie into the outbound pole of that. If that switch is mounted in either of the D-pillars, it should be fairly easy to get to.

the dome light only comes on when the passenger doors are open. I don't believe the rear hatch triggers it, so that's not an option.

I think at this point I need to stop thinking and start looking at what's there. or if one of you guys is close to your truck, open the rear hatch for me and see if there are any push switches mounted to the body that would be activated by the hatch opening and closing.

Okki

I finally got what you were originally asking! I just took a look around the perimeter of the tailgate on the body side and the tailgate side, zero door pin switches I'm afraid

I played around with the tailgate a bit, and it seems like the door pin switch might be integrated into the latch, which would defeat the purpose of not running wires into the tailgate...

 

[Okki]

I finally got what you were originally asking! I just took a look around the perimeter of the tailgate on the body side and the tailgate side, zero door pin switches I'm afraid

I played around with the tailgate a bit, and it seems like the door pin switch might be integrated into the latch, which would defeat the purpose of not running wires into the tailgate...

Well.. that just sucks... so no fanciness. sounds like it may be a wire from the compressor switch at this time.

Thanks Eddiebx!

 

[macntatsch]

I haven't looked at the hatch... but what about installing your own pin switch.

 

[Semi-Hex]

What type of tubing did you use and how did you connect the air fitting to the fender well firmly?

 

[Okki]

What type of tubing did you use and how did you connect the air fitting to the fender well firmly?

I'm cutting up this hose:

I already have one that I use for the tools and I really like the quality and flexibility; and blue is the universal "air line" color.

I've got a bunch of brass fittings (2 elbows and a T) on order from Amazon. (I ordered the wrong size first (inner hose diameter instead of outer).

The faceplate is connected with 4 screws to the plastic, and the gauge sandwiches the faceplate and plastic as well. Lastly, the airchuck sandwiches the faceplate and plastic as well. So I'm confident this won't be going anywhere.

Okki

 

[Snooperstyle]

Okki, I know it is more work, but you could run a wire from the rear hatch interior light on the left side. I did this when installing my rear cargo area LEDs. Then yor gauge light would only be on if you opened the rear hatch, and you would also be able to put LEDs back there too. My write up on fishing the wire is in the Interior LEDs thread somewhere abs it has derail pics. It was kind if gard to get it diwn tge side if tge rwar hatch but i got it to go after sveral tres. Food for thought.

 

[Snooperstyle]

Okki, I know it is more work, but you could run a wire from the rear hatch interior light on the left side. I did this when installing my rear cargo area LEDs. Then yor gauge light would only be on if you opened the rear hatch, and you would also be able to put LEDs back there too. My write up on fishing the wire is in the Interior LEDs thread somewhere and it has detailed pics. It was kind if gard to get it down the side of the rear hatch but i got it to go after sveral tries. Food for thought.

 

[jangoforhire]

I'm cutting up this hose:

I already have one that I use for the tools and I really like the quality and flexibility; and blue is the universal "air line" color.

I've got a bunch of brass fittings (2 elbows and a T) on order from Amazon. (I ordered the wrong size first (inner hose diameter instead of outer).

The faceplate is connected with 4 screws to the plastic, and the gauge sandwiches the faceplate and plastic as well. Lastly, the airchuck sandwiches the faceplate and plastic as well. So I'm confident this won't be going anywhere.

Okki

Holy crap you got that tubing to fit all the way back there? Are you running it inside or under the truck? I used the ARB high pressure air lines and I thought THAT was a tight fit at places (come to think of it though I did have like 25 wires running back there too but still).

 

[Okki]

Holy crap you got that tubing to fit all the way back there? Are you running it inside or under the truck? I used the ARB high pressure air lines and I thought THAT was a tight fit at places (come to think of it though I did have like 25 wires running back there too but still).

I'm running under the truck from the engine bay into the passenger fender and out along the frame, rear crossover over the axle (same space as my breather relocation hose) and then into the driver side rear wheel well. Only thing left to decide is where to put the T. I'm hoping to have it close to the gauge, but I've got more then enough hose to put it under the truck.

Okki

 

[Semi-Hex]

I'm cutting up this hose:

I already have one that I use for the tools and I really like the quality and flexibility; and blue is the universal "air line" color.

I've got a bunch of brass fittings (2 elbows and a T) on order from Amazon. (I ordered the wrong size first (inner hose diameter instead of outer).

The faceplate is connected with 4 screws to the plastic, and the gauge sandwiches the faceplate and plastic as well. Lastly, the airchuck sandwiches the faceplate and plastic as well. So I'm confident this won't be going anywhere.

Okki

I know I am off topic but thank you. I put in a lot of soda machines and I have spools of 450 lb 1/4 tubing with brass or guest fittings. Now I just need to get it run!