Installing Shrockworks on my 2014 TE with KDSS

[Warpath]

Has anybody installed the Shrockworks sliders/rock rails on their 4R with KDSS? The front mounting point looks clear but the rear doesn't look possible. The only thread I found regarding an install was a 4R without KDSS. I would really like a pair but it doesn't look like it is possible. Are there other brands that work around this problem?

Front mounting point. (No issue.)

Rear mounting point. (Issue.)

 

[ryan87]

You will loosen the stuff pictured and the sliders will slide behind it

 

[GabrielM]

I do have them installed (by the PO), I could snap some pics if you need.

But as [MENTION=99496]ryan87[/MENTION] said, you need to slide it behind the lines

 

[SoCal147]

I ran into the same issue with my OPOR install. Loosen the lines and slide the mount plates underneath the KDSS lines. Retighten. All is well.

 

[st8rocks]

If I remember correctly there are 3 bolts that connect the KDSS lines to the frame that can be removed to help with the install. One that you have pictured, another further towards the rear, and one in the rear wheel well.

Even with all three bolts off the lines still don't move much. I used a few wood shims and an extra pair of hands to pull them KDSS lines away.

 

[jrandom]

They fit, I suggested they put a slight cant on the rear strut and you would avoid most kdss line issues.

I loosened the hanger bolts, push the lines out with a couple door shims. I ended up bending the hangers for a little better fit. I padded the lines with some rubber padding where they contact the rear support.

 

[Warpath]

[MENTION=111795]GabrielM[/MENTION]. I would love to see some pictures so I know what I am getting myself into!
:bluejump:

I do have them installed (by the PO), I could snap some pics if you need.

But as [MENTION=99496]ryan87[/MENTION] said, you need to slide it behind the lines

 

[bruindave]

I'm supposed to get my sliders from shrockworks next week as well and more pictures would help out a lot.

On another note, (newbie question) but did you guys use anything on the bolts when you installed them? Locktite or anything of the sort or did you guys just screw them on and leave as is?

 

[3wbdriver]

You will both want either a floor jack or an extra set of hands for the installation. They are heavy. I had fun getting the blind nuts working but after one or 2 they get easier. Install all of the pre-threaded ones first and it will be easier. The driver's side rear bracket has a 2 piece upper brace. This will need a bolt that is about 1/2" longer to get started in the frame. My upper bracket is still not installed because of this. There just isn't enough length on the supplied bolt to get it started in the blind nut. I haven't used any Loc-tite since the kit came with lock washers. And you may need to drill a couple of holes for some of the lowest set bolts.

 

[bruindave]

You will both want either a floor jack or an extra set of hands for the installation. They are heavy. I had fun getting the blind nuts working but after one or 2 they get easier. Install all of the pre-threaded ones first and it will be easier. The driver's side rear bracket has a 2 piece upper brace. This will need a bolt that is about 1/2" longer to get started in the frame. My upper bracket is still not installed because of this. There just isn't enough length on the supplied bolt to get it started in the blind nut. I haven't used any Loc-tite since the kit came with lock washers. And you may need to drill a couple of holes for some of the lowest set bolts.

Thanks for the extra tips 3wb. Sorry to hijack this thread a little, but yes I've read up a little here and there to prepare myself for the install. I'm going to get some jack stands. I am a little nervous about drilling holes at the bottom or even any other kind of random hiccups I might encounter. I'm pretty green when doing mods and used to have a buddy walk me through everything, but he moved away.

That's interesting that you have to get another bolt that's slightly longer. Do you remember what bolt you needed exactly?

 

[WODWorldWide]

I don't know if anyone mentioned it yet but do this with an empty gas tank. I made the mistake of having all 20+ gallons in there and my gas tank strap went bye bye until I could empty my tank and Yank it back into place. It was not fun.

 

[jrandom]

[MENTION=105481]3wbdriver[/MENTION] I assume you are talking about drilling the hole and bolting in the crossmember? I recall it being difficult to get the thread started, I also noticed once that bolt was torqued there was literally no room between the end of the bolt and another piece of steel on the backside, not that you couldn't drill through that too.


Edit: good point about the tank strap, lol that was probably the biggest pita of the whole gig.

 

[Warpath]

Lol, all this talk is making me nervous about buying.

 

[3wbdriver]

[MENTION=105481]3wbdriver[/MENTION] I assume you are talking about drilling the hole and bolting in the crossmember?

Yes. I still haven't done those yet either. I NEED a full week at home to catch up on some of these projects. Lol.

 

[Jeremy556]

Lol, all this talk is making me nervous about buying.

On the bright side, you'll have 4-6 months to plan your install, once you order them. :biggrin1:

 

[3wbdriver]

That's interesting that you have to get another bolt that's slightly longer. Do you remember what bolt you needed exactly?

All of the bolts for unthreaded holes that come with the kit are the same size and length. I bought mine from another member and it may have been missing one bolt, but I doubt it. My problem was in getting the bolt started in one of those loose blind nuts through 2 of the steel plates. Once it gets started you have enough threads to tighten it up. But the bolt was just too short for me to get it started into that one blind nut that won't stay put against the inside of the frame. I need 3 or 4 more threads to give me some room to get it started and suck the nut up against the frame. If I had a lift I would have had room to work, but lying on my back and contorting my arms just didn't leave me enough room to get it done.

Just take one bolt from the kit to a hardware store and get another one about 1/2" longer.

This was the first time I have used those kind of blind nuts. They are a threaded nut on one end of a pliable metal strip. You bend and twist the strip to get the nut to line up with the holes from several inches away. You can get it to hold flush with the hole, but you have to get the bolt started very carefully without pushing very hard to do so. Once it is started you just hold the strip and tighten the bolt. But it took me several attempts to get each bolt started. Once you are done you can push the ends of the strips into the frame with a pair of needle nose pliers and replace the plastic access caps. Then if you need to take it back apart you just pull the caps and grab the strips with the needle noses to pull them back out. The total install only took 2 of us about 90 minutes, and 15 or so of that was figuring out we had to pull some plastic access covers to insert the blind nuts.

And the point about the empty tank is very valid. I deliberately only had 3 or 4 gallons left in mine for the install and the tank pretty much stayed put.

 

[bruindave]

I don't know if anyone mentioned it yet but do this with an empty gas tank. I made the mistake of having all 20+ gallons in there and my gas tank strap went bye bye until I could empty my tank and Yank it back into place. It was not fun.

Yup, I read up on this step.

[MENTION=105481]3wbdriver[/MENTION] I assume you are talking about drilling the hole and bolting in the crossmember? I recall it being difficult to get the thread started, I also noticed once that bolt was torqued there was literally no room between the end of the bolt and another piece of steel on the backside, not that you couldn't drill through that too.

do you need the extra long bolt for this or is it another part that you need an extra long bolt for? Do you need 2???

Edit: good point about the tank strap, lol that was probably the biggest pita of the whole gig.

I plan to use one of the jack stands to hold this part up as I unhook the gas tank. I am kind of nervous about this and the drilling part.

Lol, all this talk is making me nervous about buying.

On the bright side, you'll have 4-6 months to plan your install, once you order them. :biggrin1:

[MENTION=112082]Warpath[/MENTION]: Haha, like Jeremy said... you have 4-6 months. I am arriving on 4 months and they're telling me I should have them shipped next week. I don't think the install will be that bad... at least I hope...

 

[jrandom]

I plan to use one of the jack stands to hold this part up as I unhook the gas tank. I am kind of nervous about this and the drilling part.

I had too much fuel in my tank, it shifted on me and was a bit of a PITA, once I wrestled the strap back with a long punch was a piece of cake. Totally my bad.

Drilling the hole is seriously no big deal. I threw a single bolt, moderately tight, in the rear support. Then with my floor jack I brought the front up in place with a slight bit of upward pressure and marked, punched, and drilled the hole (drill a pilot if you like) It is not thick steel, a sharp bit will cruise right through it. Blow out the dust and with it still suspended, dry slip the wire-nut in, mark and clip the excess tail off, feed it in and bolt it up, it should not be bad getting it to thread.
The biggest pain is the wire nut. Since you pushing up and have nothing much to back the nut up with the nut can walk away a little, it will take you a minute or two but no real struggle by any means.

[MENTION=112082]Warpath[/MENTION] don't be scared, any slider you install is going to require some effort. Everyone just listed any issue you will run into. I am a pretty slow and methodical, the drivers side took me, by myself, 3-4 hours and the passenger side roughly 2 hours.

 

[Warpath]

Thanks guys. It has been a while since I have done any work to a vehicle. The last one was an '07 Fj Cruiser. A friend and I installed an ARB bumper and OME springs to compensate for the weight with no problems. And I have done several suspension modifications and slider installs on plenty of Jeeps, so I know I am more than capable. I just don't want to screw up the KDSS in the process. The KDSS is also a concern because I want to lift my 4R just a little and I don't want to get that right side lean. It already leans at stock height by 1/2", but I guess that is with in spec. The 4R does handle very nicely, but I don't if the KDSS is worth all the hassle because I want to mod my rig!!! Lol.

Just out of curiosity, does anybody know how much the dimpled sliders weigh?

PS, I am still waiting on some pictures.

 

[raaze14]

Thanks guys. It has been a while since I have done any work to a vehicle. The last one was an '07 Fj Cruiser. A friend and I installed an ARB bumper and OME springs to compensate for the weight with no problems. And I have done several suspension modifications and slider installs on plenty of Jeeps, so I know I am more than capable. I just don't want to screw up the KDSS in the process. The KDSS is also a concern because I want to lift my 4R just a little and I don't want to get that right side lean. It already leans at stock height by 1/2", but I guess that is with in spec. The 4R does handle very nicely, but I don't if the KDSS is worth all the hassle because I want to mod my rig!!! Lol.

Just out of curiosity, does anybody know how much the dimpled sliders weigh?

PS, I am still waiting on some pictures.

The shipping weight on my sliders is 111 lbs.