Inv4drZm's Build Thread

[Inv4drZm]

Did the new axle come with a re-gear as well? I know you said you were planning on putting on 37's at one point. I don't see how you can have any power with stock gearing xD

I went with 4.88s because of the future 37's. If I wanted to stay with 35's I would have gotten 4.56 or 4.30.

Honestly I don't think the 05-09 V8's need a regear with 35's. It's still plenty fast for merging if I stomp on it, and still holds 5th well enough going up hills, I just never use the cruise control.

 

[Cplatt517]

Appreciate It

Your rig is awesome. I'm in the market for a 4th Gen at the moment and would love to get mine to close to how yours is.

 

[montijo505]

Your rig is awesome. I'm in the market for a 4th Gen at the moment and would love to get mine to close to how yours is.

Here you go!
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-vehicles/275209-fs-4th-gen-2003-lifted-w-arb-lockers-$12-499-obo-charlotte-monroe-nc.html


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[montijo505]

Is it Christmas?

Time to give my truck a little more bite to match its bark.

[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]
Can’t wait to see how it turns out!


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[Inv4drZm]

Game plan is to swap the front diff this weekend, and send the core back to ECGS for reimbursement. If I don't feel I can get the rear swapped in the same weekend I'll just leave the front driveshaft off, lock the center diff, and drive for a week in 2wd.

Any problems with this?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Front diff took less than 4 hours. Got home at 5:20 got done at 9:00.

Hardest part was installing the CV's and removing and installing the diff itself as it's a two person job and it needs to be lifted up so the stud can sit down inside the crossmember. Went very smoothly though.

Started the rear diff at 8:00 this morning, finished at 3:00. Ran into some issues, some still aren't resolved but its street driveable for now.





Front-Range Offroad heims are a hair too big diameter to fit in the lower axle mounts easily. We chamfered a bolt quite a bit with a grinder and knocked it in with a hammer, hoping the link will wear itself a new home. It was either that or grind down the heim, or die-grind the axle mount but we didn't have an air tank for our die grinder at our house. A angle grinder couldn't quite reach the spot on the mount.

The stock bolts for the lower links were too short, they beefed up the thickness of the plate. We ran and got G8 3.7" long 9/16 bolts. We still need a couple extra washers because the width on the mount leaves a little wiggle room for the misalignment spacers which is a no-no.

Which brings us to the shock mounts, they are way too long and allow the shocks to slide probably 3/4"... Might need more spacers or something.

Thanks to my brother and another FJ buddy that came over to help with the rear. I wouldn't have been able to figure out the driveshaft ujoint caps without him.

It's crazy to think only 4 years ago I was daunted with a suspension install.

500 mile break-in period, install the airlocker lines and a proper diff breather, and finalize routing the wheel speed sensor lines, something about 3" wider each side makes it difficult. Parking brake if I feel like getting around to it.

Which brings us to the last note: THE STOCK DRIVESHAFT FITS FINE.

I'll double-check everything tomorrow after some rest but that about sums it up.

 

[royal T4R]

Game plan is to swap the front diff this weekend, and send the core back to ECGS for reimbursement. If I don't feel I can get the rear swapped in the same weekend I'll just leave the front driveshaft off, lock the center diff, and drive for a week in 2wd.

Any problems with this?

Did you run into any issues doing this?


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[Inv4drZm]

Did you run into any issues doing this?


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Worked just fine. We locked the center diff to tighten the driveshafts and unlocked it to clock them. I also pulled around to park in reverse to work on the rear axle with the front driveshaft removed center diff locked.

The truck about rolled into the culdesac with the center diff unlocked and front driveshaft removed though.

 

[awhitney1]

That new rear axle is looking pretty sexy! I may do this down the road with the Dana 60, ARB rear air locker, 4.56 re-gear.

 

[awhitney1]

This is the Dana 60 and the options i'm looking to get, anything else you would advise that I would need?

 

[Inv4drZm]

This is the Dana 60 and the options i'm looking to get, anything else you would advise that I would need?

Looks good. Front diff too, of course. Unless you are 2wd.

Edit: Not sure you want the lube locker gasket with the ARB cover. You don't need to take off the ARB cover with every oil change, and it might even have its own gasket, not sure.

• 85-140 Lucas gear oil, about 3qts for the rear, 1.5 for the front. Enough for two changes so you can break in the gears.
  
• 2 Grade 8 3.75" long bolts/nuts/1/2" washers for lower links
  
• 8 1/2" washers to center the panhard bar
  
• Air locker air lines and solenoids are included by ECGS. They also include the parts to swap the factory ujoint out for a D60 size ubolt setup.
  
• Diff breather hose, 1 way vent cap, hose clamps. The ECGS axle has a brass barb fitting sticking out the top.
  
• Brake fluid, extended braided lines would be good to add like what I did.
  
• Factory uses a stud to mount the ABS sensors, ECGS uses a threaded hole so you need 2 small bolts one for each side to mount the sensors, luckily I had some.
  
• Air compressor setup to actuate the lockers.
  
• All the tools you'll need to swap the front diff according to this writeup.
  
  My little electric impact made everything go pretty fast.
  ​
• Parking brake parts kit if you want to keep that. Not sure if you can buy the drums separate for a decent price or if you need to swap your old ones over. I'll be looking into this.
  
• Beefier upper and lower links, I don't think the stock ones are a good idea with this heavier axle.

Any other specific questions on these points I can answer too, w/ pictures if anybody wants.

 

[awhitney1]

Thank you very much for the info! Definitely something i'm looking to do down the line for my v8 4runner.

Looks good. Front diff too, of course. Unless you are 2wd.

Edit: Not sure you want the lube locker gasket with the ARB cover. You don't need to take off the ARB cover with every oil change, and it might even have its own gasket, not sure.

• 85-140 Lucas gear oil, about 3qts for the rear, 1.5 for the front. Enough for two changes so you can break in the gears.
  
• 2 Grade 8 3.75" long bolts/nuts/1/2" washers for lower links
  
• 8 1/2" washers to center the panhard bar
  
• Air locker air lines and solenoids are included by ECGS. They also include the parts to swap the factory ujoint out for a D60 size ubolt setup.
  
• Diff breather hose, 1 way vent cap, hose clamps. The ECGS axle has a brass barb fitting sticking out the top.
  
• Brake fluid, extended braided lines would be good to add like what I did.
  
• Factory uses a stud to mount the ABS sensors, ECGS uses a threaded hole so you need 2 small bolts one for each side to mount the sensors, luckily I had some.
  
• Air compressor setup to actuate the lockers.
  
• All the tools you'll need to swap the front diff according to this writeup.
  
  My little electric impact made everything go pretty fast.
  ​
• Parking brake parts kit if you want to keep that. Not sure if you can buy the drums separate for a decent price or if you need to swap your old ones over. I'll be looking into this.
  
• Beefier upper and lower links, I don't think the stock ones are a good idea with this heavier axle.

Any other specific questions on these points I can answer too, w/ pictures if anybody wants.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

And I'm not sure how the factory links will withstand the extra weight of the axle, it might bend them more easily.

CaliFab=Beefy

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

Ha just noticed you have Front Range Links. How do you like the Heims on both ends? Probably gives you a good bit more droop. The CaliFabs are offset for that purpose, but are more expensive. I never really looked at FR before, they look pretty stout as well.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Ha just noticed you have Front Range Links. How do you like the Heims on both ends? Probably gives you a good bit more droop. The CaliFabs are offset for that purpose, but are more expensive. I never really looked at FR before, they look pretty stout as well.

The double heims added a bit more vibrations, but after the install I noticed when rock crawling the driveshaft flange rubs the fuel tank skid and the muffler so I'm getting more movement somewhere. Maybe just side-to-side movement though. I havent looked to see if these contact the housing or where the new droop limit is, keep in mind I have standard length Icon 2.5" shocks.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

The double heims added a bit more vibrations, but after the install I noticed when rock crawling the driveshaft flange rubs the fuel tank skid and the muffler so I'm getting more movement somewhere. Maybe just side-to-side movement though. I havent looked to see if these contact the housing or where the new droop limit is, keep in mind I have standard length Icon 2.5" shocks.

That sucks about the contact. Is that the stock skid? I don't do much crawling here in flat land, so I got nothing. I do hit the whoops when I can and so far haven't noticed any contact. 28" Ext. Rear Kings w the Califabs.
Like you said, Maybe the heims at both ends are allowing for a touch more lateral movement?

 

[Inv4drZm]

That sucks about the contact. Is that the stock skid? I don't do much crawling here in flat land, so I got nothing. I do hit the whoops when I can and so far haven't noticed any contact. 28" Ext. Rear Kings w the Califabs.
Like you said, Maybe the heims at both ends are allowing for a touch more lateral movement?

Yeah, stock skid. Maybe the 2wd harmonic balancing flange I ended up with has something to do with it.

Old flange:



The new flange is a lot smaller so it might be fixed:



The shock mounts I was talking about. They can slide all along that spacer behind the eyelet.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

I'm green as hell at all of this, so I've never seen anything like that shock mount. Interesting.
That old balancer looks outta place lol. I hope your all fixed up!!

 

[Inv4drZm]

In order to install the fender liner I'll need to buy the fender flare clips, you need the take the flare off to remove the old liner. Page 36&37 for earlier info.

The aftermarket part doesn't look as cool as the OEM FJ part, but for $20 vs $160... it covers it fairly well I think. A little heatgunning and it would be even better.

Or I might make a sheetmetal part and rivet it on, who knows.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Still not too happy with the lower link brackets and shock mounts....

But tons of room for activities I mean coilovers.