Inv4drZm's Build Thread

I assumed the FJ rear driveshaft was the same as ours.

Wrong.

Its .28" larger in diameter and .5" shorter. Since I have .5" less slip yoke showing our overall flange-flange lengths are the same right now. The FJ driveshaft might be a decent upgrade for those installing the ECGS D60 and not wanting to extend their links further back.

I don't see why ECGS seems to think we need shorter driveshafts. He's got 1.75" of compression room on the slip yoke I had 2" before the D60. I now have 1.5" with the D60. Not to mention you can't shorten ours because of the swedged tube.

I did some more digging and the Tacoma guys running Tacobox T-cases can shorten their driveshafts because the design is different, their tubes aren't swedged.

FJ on top, 4runner on bottom:



 
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Inv4drZm said:
Still not too happy with the lower link brackets and shock mounts....

But tons of room for activities I mean coilovers.
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Are those lower shock mounts for a 3.0 rod end? Or is it a crawling design to allow more articulation for the shock and axle to work together? Still curious about that one. Man I have a lot to learn.....
 
4RunnerAquasport said:
Are those lower shock mounts for a 3.0 rod end? Or is it a crawling design to allow more articulation for the shock and axle to work together? Still curious about that one. Man I have a lot to learn.....
Click to expand...

I'm not sure why they did that. Its a good design but in my mind it allows too much sliding movement of the shock eyelet on the shaft. It needs to be 1/2" shorter with a 3/8" spacer on the backside to take up the movement.
 
Got the pseudo-snorkel installed. The FJ liner I was messing with that is. All new clips and only used 1 extra bolt to hold things in place. Sorry I can't get any good pictures of it...

I layered the factory liner with the new FJ liner because the FJ liner didn't follow the rear of the fender very well so I used a bit of both.

This will only work if you have removed/relocated your windshield washer reservoir.



Intake entrance:







Not much of a path for water:



 
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Really wanting to get a TIG welder and weld a full dual exhaust system to go with a set of long tube headers... just reading up on exhaust design and planning it so far.

Anyone have any input? What's theoretically the best 2UZ exhaust?

Dual 2.25" or dual 2.5" stainless steel pipes? It seems boosted cars like large tubing so probably 2.5".
Keep in mind I might have a supercharger down the road.

Wanting to weld a X-pipe after headers (no cats) > small diameter 12" resonators > electric cutout > 14" long straight-through mufflers > helmholtz resonators > dual exit in my rear bumper.
 
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K-D-Runner said:
Are you referring to the supercharger package Burtman industries is putting together?


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
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I am unaware of such a kit. I was planning on the URD one.

I only knew of a tune Burtman was working on but I'll keep my eye out.

It surprises me, with the exception of a few recent threads, nobody seems to do more than CAI and exhaust with these truck engines. Maybe it's because they don't really need it power-wise, but they share a few similar parts with the 4L 1UZ and 4.3L 3UZ which are popular tuner/swap engines, and the 2UZ has the strongest block.
 
Inv4drZm said:
I am unaware of such a kit. I was planning on the URD one.

I only knew of a tune Burtman was working on but I'll keep my eye out.

It surprises me, with the exception of a few recent threads, nobody seems to do more than CAI and exhaust with these truck engines. Maybe it's because they don't really need it power-wise, but they share a few similar parts with the 4L 1UZ and 4.3L 3UZ which are popular tuner/swap engines, and the 2UZ has the strongest block.
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I grew up goofing around with (pre LS) SB Chevys, the simplicity of the design and the shear amount of junk yard cores and aftermarket parts was nothing short of amazing. A guy making a little over minimum wage could build a 325 hp engine if he was smart, did a little research and horse trading for parts and or machine work. On the Toyota side here in Florida, Tundra, LCs, and Runner resale is still pretty high. Even sniffing a build able junk yard core is rare. I really would love to build a 350 to 400 hp N/A 2UZ, just to see if I could do it. But it costs so damn much, I can't justify the experiment lol. The technical knowledge needed is mostly over my head too. Been looking at some of the rebuilt long blocks online. Dreaming mostly......
 
4RunnerAquasport said:
I grew up goofing around with (pre LS) SB Chevys, the simplicity of the design and the shear amount of junk yard cores and aftermarket parts was nothing short of amazing. A guy making a little over minimum wage could build a 325 hp engine if he was smart, did a little research and horse trading for parts and or machine work. On the Toyota side here in Florida, Tundra, LCs, and Runner resale is still pretty high. Even sniffing a build able junk yard core is rare. I really would love to build a 350 to 400 hp N/A 2UZ, just to see if I could do it. But it costs so damn much, I can't justify the experiment lol. The technical knowledge needed is mostly over my head too. Been looking at some of the rebuilt long blocks online. Dreaming mostly......
Click to expand...
A buddy of mine recently swapped a 2UZ into his 3rd gen. He's still finishing up some details, but has it running and (I believe) moving. Not sure if he has a thread on here or not, but I know he's a member and am sure it'll show its face soon enough.

I know he was able to source the engine for pretty cheap. I believe the most expensive part was a trans adapter for it that he had to have custom made and then shipped across the Atlantic. Other than that, just a ton of man-hours and planning.
 
4RunnerAquasport said:
I grew up goofing around with (pre LS) SB Chevys, the simplicity of the design and the shear amount of junk yard cores and aftermarket parts was nothing short of amazing. A guy making a little over minimum wage could build a 325 hp engine if he was smart, did a little research and horse trading for parts and or machine work. On the Toyota side here in Florida, Tundra, LCs, and Runner resale is still pretty high. Even sniffing a build able junk yard core is rare. I really would love to build a 350 to 400 hp N/A 2UZ, just to see if I could do it. But it costs so damn much, I can't justify the experiment lol. The technical knowledge needed is mostly over my head too. Been looking at some of the rebuilt long blocks online. Dreaming mostly......
Click to expand...

I would love to get my hands on a car with an LS1 or LS2, and start taking apart the motor and upgrading stuff, just to learn how they work. One thing that I haven't touched on my 4Runner is the engine. That may change one day but like you said, something cheaper could be just as fun.

But I'm dreaming of building the 2UZ too, just because so few have done it.
 
Got my locker air lines ran last weekend, and wired up the solenoids.

Tested them out today in the driveway on jackstands. Fully operational!

For the first time my truck is more capable than my brother's FJ!! (A temporary victory)

I also bought a used 35x12.50x17 Dynapro M/T from Ebay to replace my shredded one. $150 so not too bad of a mistake. It looks about the same diameter as my 315/70R17s.

Front:

Through the crossmember, next to the steering shaft, into the firewall grommet, and all the way to the back hatch.



Rear:

Wasn't sure how to best route this one, I went forward to the fuel tank, then back to a hole in the body, and up through the plug in the back left side.





 
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Here's a video an FJ buddy took of my truck, on Top of the World trail.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/152291907@N03/48580170987/in/album-72157685405754650/" title="IMG_1282"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/48580170987_f8c0506458_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="IMG_1282"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
Reached 550 miles so I changed diff fluids. We're going wheeling next weekend so I'll get to try out the lockers. Interstate driving is a bit louder with the 4.88's but tons of power, no downshifting to accelerate. It really throws you into your seat from a stop as well; it rips.









Noticed the steering rack is coming loose again, so I tightened it up 2 turns. I seriously need to tack weld it.

 
I took off all my skid plates to remove my front diff, and had quite a bit of difficulty putting them back on tonight, even after driving over them to re-flatten as much as I could. A section is starting to rub the exhaust. I'll need to redesign them at some point... 1/8" AR plate should be 2/3 the weight and the same strength... The front RCI skid is just fine however. But I did draw all 3 in Solidworks so I could have a shop cut and brake them for me. Group buy anyone? Shipping would suck nevermind...
 
Went to the old flex spot today in preparation for Sunday's wheeling. I drove up the ditch until my rear tire started spinning, then engaged the rear locker and walked it up another foot until the tire was off the ground. Sick!





Nailed the fitment:





Compressed Wheeler's bumpstop:

 
Went to Tuttle and got to try out the lockers. Honestly not a huge upgrade in capability, its not like I run circles around everybody like my dreams made me believe. The rear locker is pretty sweet, the front makes a difference in a handful of situations. Still limited by ground clearance, weight, and the weak link stock CV axles I suppose. So I still have the mod bug.

The biggest improvement came with the 4.88 gears and highway driving. It only downshifts when I'm nearly flooring it. TONS of power even at 75mph.
I got 14.6 mpg driving up there too (split 75mph/65mph), which might be a hair lower than with stock gears. (Corrected for tire size its 16.3mpg)













Nice new dent:

 
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