Inv4drZm's Build Thread
- Thread starter Inv4drZm
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Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Are you saying you had to tighten the "cylinder end stopper"??
Yeah that is it. It came unthreaded during my Moab trip and blew out of the end of the steering rack, though it was captured by the tie rods.
Never heard of that, is it typical? or your build?
I replaced mine about a year ago, because I was told the bushings were bad and the cause for all shitty steering. But nope, still just along for the ride. Convinced this thing will just feel like a bucket of bolts regardless what I do.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I've never heard of it happening either.
It's either your steering shaft, tie rods, or maybe ball joint(s).
Or alignment.
Steering rack is from CVJ(also have their front cv axles), outter tie rods are OEM. I went through 3? LCA's or bushings before I broke down and bought OEM. I managed to pick up some trd PRO takeoffs(front/rear suspension, UCA, and all the rear links) to refresh all the other bushings. I removed my King's and TC UCA when I swapped all the OEM in.
I am curious about the alignment though. My rear doesn't read all 0, it's off a bit. Everybody says it's well within spec and normal.
kcdehart
New member
Sucks to hear about the LCAs. Did the ball joints just keep going bad on em?
So i think my originals were still good when I installed the kings. But I didn't loosen cam bolts before installing, and took like a week to get an alignment. So I destroyed those bushings.
Replaced with some rock auto's. Those lasted 4-6 months.
Rebuilt the originals with energy suspension bushings and replaced ball joint(i'm convinced this was a mistake. The OEM was still good. And even with greasing don't feel the aftermarkets are any good.). Lasted another 4-6 months before ball joint went and squeaks drove me mad.
Rebuilt the Rock Auto's with OEM bushings and new ball joint. Which lasted a good while, almost a year before ball joint again.
Now back to OEM's, been about 4 months.
Also just did all NAPA brakes. And OEM pads, hardware and rotors.
Wish my tires would wear out so I can replace them. Maybe going back to a 265 and P rating will help?
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
No welding table updates for this weekend, they should be close to done with it though at work.
Instead, I'll be attempting to fabricate a Y-Pipe for my truck. Full 2.5" diameter 304 stainless. Vibrant and Stainless Bros parts. Yes 2.5" not 2.25" like the URD though a 1/4" probably doesn't matter. Hopefully equal length sides too.
This is as far as I got today (Friday). Only snapped off 3 of the 4 studs. The cat delete and high-tuck exhaust I had the shop do really isn't too bad, better than the stock setup.
What the cat looks like:
2.5" to 2" reducer welded on and getting cut short to a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer.
Filling in the front side of the flange. I'll grind it smooth later.
Instead, I'll be attempting to fabricate a Y-Pipe for my truck. Full 2.5" diameter 304 stainless. Vibrant and Stainless Bros parts. Yes 2.5" not 2.25" like the URD though a 1/4" probably doesn't matter. Hopefully equal length sides too.
This is as far as I got today (Friday). Only snapped off 3 of the 4 studs. The cat delete and high-tuck exhaust I had the shop do really isn't too bad, better than the stock setup.
What the cat looks like:
2.5" to 2" reducer welded on and getting cut short to a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer.
Filling in the front side of the flange. I'll grind it smooth later.
Terminator03
New member
How are you liking the AHP welder so far? Would you recommend it? I’ve been wanting a new welder for awhile (just have a small Lincoln flux core). Did you consider any of the higher end offerings from HF? If so, what made you pick this one over those? I haven’t TIG welded in about 20 years, but knew I’d have to own one at some point, especially for aluminum and stainless. I just bought an aluminum car hauler that I “need” a lot of mods on so being able to weld aluminum is a must at this point.:tea:
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
It seems to do fine though I'm no tig expert. The high frequency start isn't working so I've been using lift start. I emailed AHP a while back no response, I'll need to call them during a lunch break to diagnose it. I didn't look at any of the Harbor Freight models though maybe I should have. It just seems all the youtube channels recommended this one, and they just updated it to include a better foot pedal LOL.
I've practiced on aluminum with the standard #6 cup it came with and it did pretty well, I just needed a gas lens and a Furick #10 cup to weld stainless without it turning brown. Also the fans are loud, but they may be that way on all budget welders.
More work done today on the Y pipe, should be able to finish it up tomorrow.
Drilled out the corroded bolts on the cat flanges, if not for that I'd have the entire thing tacked welded together.
Terminator03
New member
Thanks. Yeah, I’ve seen all the recommendations as well, which was why I was wondering why you chose this over the HF, since I can actually ask you on here. Hopefully they will get to the bottom of that high frequency start problem for you! I’ve read sort of mixed reviews on how they handle problems. From what I’ve read though, the negative reviews are a very small percentage though, so not enough to make me worry. Pipe looks awesome so far!
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Thanks for the good luck, after hours of weld time, after I read this comment the high frequency start started working!
Got the Y finished this weekend, though I was worried it might take a few more hours on Monday to button it up.
I'd like to think at least some of my welds show some genius. If I could get perfect tube fitup I could just fusion weld everything (no filler) and move fast to keep the heat down.
I wondered all weekend what initial startup would feel like, it didn't disappoint. A surprisingly higher pitched tone, it sounds a lot different than any 2UZ I've heard, super happy with it. Exhaust vid coming.
Finally got this #*%*! out.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
If I made another I would need to make a weld jig so I could build it on my bench and have a better way of cutting the bend tubing.
Or try and build it out of all 45's and 90's.
Terminator03
New member
That looks fantastic! Does that welder have the ability to TIG with another control other than a foot pedal to do something such as welding on the frame if you were under the truck? I ask because i have a few areas on my frame I'd like to add some plates to.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Yes you could but it only comes with a foot pedal. You would need to buy a torch switch and zip tie it onto the torch handle and plug it in to where the pedal plugs in to the machine.
Having never done it before, it might be difficult to manage the filler wire in one hand and the torch in the other depending on clearances under the body. This is where I think mig would be a better choice but I've never tried it with tig and I'm sure it would work with some practice especially if it's not the main use of the welder.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
A new exhaust video is available for your viewing pleasure.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/152291907@N03/48900636416/in/album-72157685405754650/" title="V8 Exhaust"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/48900636416_15c24d099f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="V8 Exhaust"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/152291907@N03/48900636416/in/album-72157685405754650/" title="V8 Exhaust"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/48900636416_15c24d099f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="V8 Exhaust"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
montijo505
Senior Member
Showing as a picture.... did you get that y pipe installed?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Yeah its installed. It shows as an embedded video for me? Try clicking on it?
Its in my flickr video album.
Videos | Flickr
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