Cool Tundra man, the short bed looks really good.
I would buy a cheap decal remover wheel to get rid of your residue from the molding removal.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pneumatic-Eraser-Pad-for-Pinstripe-Removal-Tool-AST400E/206859130
Inv4drZm's Build Thread
- Thread starter Inv4drZm
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Cool Tundra man, the short bed looks really good.
I would buy a cheap decal remover wheel to get rid of your residue from the molding removal.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Astro-Pneumatic-Eraser-Pad-for-Pinstripe-Removal-Tool-AST400E/206859130
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I was just looking at some of those wheels. I think it would work well for the trim adhesive and the pinstripes. Can't wait to be able to drive it, then I can work on washing the bed and detailing it heavily.
I took the little black and chrome wheel well flares off the bed, just a few screws and clips, and underneath rust is starting in a couple spots and the white paint is flaking off in fairly large chunks. Maybe I'll try respraying that area, or just paint the whole truck a different color.
That and I need a new latch handle for the tailgate, which is $90 for the Toyota part. Not sure I want to spend that kind of money.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
New driveshaft is in, Tundra runs and drives. Steering wheel is 20 degrees (not much) to the right, which means the driver's frame rail is shorter than the passenger's side and it drives somewhat crooked down the road.
Either I recut the passenger frame rail and shorten (lots of access room on that side) or pivot the rear axle somehow (leaf springs) or live with it until the next phase (linking the rear).
Either I recut the passenger frame rail and shorten (lots of access room on that side) or pivot the rear axle somehow (leaf springs) or live with it until the next phase (linking the rear).
Broke_Runner
New member
New driveshaft is in, Tundra runs and drives. Steering wheel is 20 degrees (not much) to the right, which means the driver's frame rail is shorter than the passenger's side and it drives somewhat crooked down the road.
Either I recut the passenger frame rail and shorten (lots of access room on that side) or pivot the rear axle somehow (leaf springs) or live with it until the next phase (linking the rear).
Personally I’d say cut the passenger frame rail to match. but Im also too ocd about knowing that kind of stuff it’d bother me if it was my truck
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
Not being a fabricator such as yourself, most of this is way over my head. But, you might want to take a step back, measure it all again and make sure everything else is equal before chopping into the frame again.
My buddies 3rd gen Taco is a little out and crab walking a tiny bit after his lift install, but no one can really narrow down why.
Definitely curious what the outcome will be.
My buddies 3rd gen Taco is a little out and crab walking a tiny bit after his lift install, but no one can really narrow down why.
Definitely curious what the outcome will be.
4RunnerAquasport
Senior Member
At first glance it reminds me of a little 1st gen 4cyl Taco lol. Especially the full profile shot. I bet you have a lot of double takes from people.
xtremewlr
Member
Drove her home today. Steering wheel really isn't bad, I think it was a hair crooked before. Feels really nimble now LOL.
Final numbers: 106.5" wheelbase vs my 4Runner which is 111".
I'll detail her this weekend if I have time.
Now chop 10" out of the bed! :thumb3:
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Maybe, but I would bet most people think its just a stock truck, although a little goofy looking.
If I were to get 40s and move the axle back 4 inches, not sure that would be necessary, and I like being able to simply bolt on another bed if it got damaged.
This guy chopped it 15" though:
Broke_Runner
New member
I enjoy that way more than I thought it looks so much better with the squared cab shape than the second gen tundra rcsb
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Toyota should have made these like this from the factory.
mcaninch35
New member
Finally got through most of the 4runner build, only to get hooked on the little truck. Lol you've got a couple nice projects there! Excited to see this one develop.
Broke_Runner
New member
Curious you’ve had that Dana 60 out back for sometime and I’m trying to figure out what to do for 35s and eventual 37s in a far future it seems should I just regear the 8in and do everything I can to keep
It together for now mine has a lunchbox in it or would it be wiser to buy once cry once on that 60? and why didn’t you go the 9.5 diamond route? I can’t find much info personally on them but they smaller which would help clearance under the axle. Which was always a big talk in my Jeep days
It together for now mine has a lunchbox in it or would it be wiser to buy once cry once on that 60? and why didn’t you go the 9.5 diamond route? I can’t find much info personally on them but they smaller which would help clearance under the axle. Which was always a big talk in my Jeep days
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I think it depends on what you do with the truck. If it's your only vehicle, and you offroad far from home, a stronger axle is an easy decision. The closest wheeling spot to me is 1.5 hrs away, and of course Utah or even California vacations are halfway across the country.
By no means am I an expert, but with 37's I would at least recommend a built 8.2 axle, with conservative driving. My low pinion D60 should be nearly impossible to break with 37s even with a lead foot. With 35's you could easily do a built 8.2 with fairly aggressive offroading from time to time. I've got a friend with this setup on an FJ and I think at most she's chipped a tooth on the pinion, but I don't think that happens too often and it's a decent axle for 35's.
As far as why my brother and I didn't go with a Diamond 9.5, he was waiting over a year for them to build him a 9.5 with full float 32 spline shafts with working wheel speed sensors, and they still haven't finished that project at Diamond. I think the stock 9.5 reuses our stock 30 spline axle shafts. The ECGS axle uses semi float 35 spline shafts, cut to whatever axle width you want.
You could go Currie which is a high pinion dana 60, so a little more center clearance but a little less gear strength, but that was more money than the ECGS. I don't see it on their website anymore, maybe they discontinued it.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Because salvage yards were asking so much for beds, I was thinking it would be funny to buy a cheap running tundra, swap beds, and put my long bed on it. Make two frankenstein Tundras and sell the limo Tundra when done, as 'stock condition' of course.
Broke_Runner
New member
That has me thinking I wonder if a 8.2 would hold up to 37s and conservative driving the r&p can’t be that much different than a d44. I used to clutch dump 37s on a locked one out here in Utah. I know the 60 is stout for 37s and no doubt the best choice but damn that initial cost is big to bite off. sucks about the diamond I’ve looked at the semi float 9.5 and at that point you get the stronger fab housing and bigger ring gear but still only semi float so I’m not sure it’s worth the cost of being close to the 60
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
It depends on what wheeling you do. Do you want to try some of the harder trails and attempt harder obstacles a couple times before winching? Or are you doing fireside roads with remote camping? Or somewhere between the two?
Another is do you want to try harder trails without winching, in which case I would recommend the 60.
My buddy with a GX470 has an 8.2 rear on 37's and has done Rubicon and Blanca Peak with us without any axle issues. He doesn't use a lot of throttle, we are all pretty conservative, but has tried the hard line over obstacles more times than not.
I'm not sure the Diamond 9.5 is much stronger than an 8.2, I think the weak point for both of those are the axle shafts, which if I recall correctly are the same between the two.
Broke_Runner
New member
Oh that gx from your rubicon trip is running one? And yea I know also [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] was running 37s under his 5th gen and beating it pretty good they seem stout compared to a 8in under our rigs. I don’t mind winching but being able to give a obstacle a real try is a definite must with me. I like big rocks otherwise I’d probably stick to 35s and mid travel. After seeing yours and your brothers rigs 37s and LT look perfect to fill the void of my old Jeep while being way better to drive to the trails sorry for the thread jack your rig is definitely goals
