Is your starter going??? Quick and easy repair!!!

Ok, well, I did what Adam F said, and just unbolted the starter and did the repair with the starter still in the vehicle! No need to take it out of the vehicle. Not bad at all! The trick is unclipping the mud flap guards in the inner passenger fender, then smooth sailing. Took 2 hours. I got the contacts at my Toyota dealer. They had 3 different styles, and I just bought two of each, and returned the ones I didn't use.

After unbolting the starter bolts (use 2 long extensions 6" or more with 1/2 drive/and the largest ratchet you have with swivel, remove the trans stick, unbolt the brakeline), you can twist the started around to face the passenger side wheel well. This lets you remove the 3 bolts on the solenoid cover:
starter_cap_on.jpg


With cap off. The bottom contact is the one that wears out and the one that everyone is replacing:
starter_cap_off.jpg


I only replaced the bad contact, as the other was barely worn. Comparo of old and new contact. Crazy how much the plunger dug into it over time:
contacts_old_new.jpg


Next, I put some brake cleaner on a rag and wiped out the inside and installed the new contact, on bottom in photo:
starte_clean.jpg


After two hours, this is what I was left with:
hands.jpg


:) Remember, you DO NOT have to remove the starter to do this repair.

Yep, it's definitely worth it. Because, all the starters you buy locally, are reman'd units, and will fail much sooner than this quality one Toyota put on your vehicle. All you do is spend a few bucks and it will be good as new. I did this 4 years ago, and not a hitch!
 
I went ahead and split the difference. I ordered the Victory Lap ND-34SOL kit which has 4 contacts+plunger and the Dorman 02349 kit which has 4 contacts+hardware, that way I get everything and for less than $30 (amazon prime is baller!). Maybe overkill, but I figure when it comes to starting the truck I'd rather have the peace of mind. Gonna attempt to take out the starter tomorrow and hopefully Amzn's flying delivery drone will stop by on Wednesday:plane:
 
starter

I was wondering does it matter if the contacts must be going the same way? I ordered a kit and the one contact is going the other direction and the plunger is roughly 3/4" longer then the factory one.
 
I was wondering does it matter if the contacts must be going the same way? I ordered a kit and the one contact is going the other direction and the plunger is roughly 3/4" longer then the factory one.

Dozer it may not matter about the direction (I think I read in one write-up that it didn't) but can't say for sure. The copper parts just need to make contact so in theory it wouldn't but personally I just put in the one that went the same direction. As far as the plunger, I would think it would only matter if it didn't fit once the cover plate is replaced. The cap may push it down and obviously there needs to be enough room for the solenoid to retract. Which part is longer, the smaller cylinder that goes in the spring? Or is it the larger cylinder body?
 
Did this yesterday and found it easier to just remove the starter since the bolts were taken out. Taking it out was an adventure, but putting it back in was a cinch.. Got it back in in like 10 minutes. Excellent write up! So glad i found it!

Also learned that there's a 1.4KW starter and a 1.8KW starter. Seems the consensus was that the 1.8KW is for automatics, which makes sense as I can't imagine it fitting in the space where the 1.4KW one sits in a manual model.
 
Does anyone have a part number for the contacts? Called or went to every dealership remotely close to me and they all told me they don't carry them and never have.

Where did you guys find yours?
 
Just spoke with these guys, very nice. O'reilly won't carry them maybe 'cause they want to sell you a whole starter?

STARTER REPAIR KITS | Product Categories | Cpidivisions

This is the info I was just giving, not sure if it's accurate.
I was researching for 3rd gen. 3.4l
ND-34sol = 34.8mm 1.4kw = manual trans.
or ND-36sol = 36.8mm 1.8kw = auto trans.

He said there is a little ball bearing under the solenoid that will roll out and dissapear if you're not careful.

nd-34sol | Search Results | Cpidivisions

nd-36sol | Search Results | Cpidivisions
 
Last edited:
I went to a local starter/alternator rebuild shop and the contacts cost $15. The owner apologized and said they used to only be $5 but the copper stealing has run up the price. I will try to replace the contact in place or if the starter comes out easy I can get the rebuild shop to install for $10. Nothing like a small town..........:)
 
starter rebuild parts

Part numbers are
-Starter solenoid rebuild parts-
28235-54380 Plunger magnet switch
28226-54340 Kit starter repair
28226-72010 Starter kit

from here.....:hatsoff:
3rd Gen 4Runner FAQ

So, are all the part numbers above needed to fix the issue? Or, can you just buy the starter contact kit? Mine started being stubborn yesterday.
 
I'm the original poster of this thread and all I did was replace the worn contact and it's been about 7 years now. Good as new.
 
So, are all the part numbers above needed to fix the issue? Or, can you just buy the starter contact kit? Mine started being stubborn yesterday.

First, those numbers are only for the more common 1.8kW starter.

Numbers for the 1.4kW found on my 5-speed and other manuals without the cold weather package:

STARTER KIT, MOTOR TERMINAL
28226-74070 12V 1.4KW
STARTER KIT, BATTERY TERMINAL
28226-22050 12V 1.4KW
PLUNGER, MAGNET SWITCH
28235-55050 12V 1.4KW

To answer your question, you need to replace whatever is worn. In many, if not most, cases, you only need to replace the battery side contact. The problem is, you only know for sure, after you have it open. So:you can:

a) just replace all three
b) buy all three, return what you don't need (if possible)
c) buy what you need after you open it up.
d) buy just the battery contact first, and buy whatever else you need later, if anything.

I got the kit off Amazon and did all three. Only really needed the battery contact.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Durk. Ive got the auto trans/1.8kw. My local shop doesn't have any of the parts in stock, so I'm ordering.
 
First, those numbers are only for the more common 1.8kW starter.

Numbers for the 1.4kW found on my 5-speed and other manuals without the cold weather package:

STARTER KIT, MOTOR TERMINAL
28226-74070 12V 1.4KW
STARTER KIT, BATTERY TERMINAL
28226-22050 12V 1.4KW
PLUNGER, MAGNET SWITCH
28235-55050 12V 1.4KW

To answer your question, you need to replace whatever is worn. In many, if not most, cases, you only need to replace the battery side contact. The problem is, you only know for sure, after you have it open. So:you can:

a) just replace all three
b) buy all three, return what you don't need (if possible)
c) buy what you need after you open it up.
d) buy just the battery contact first, and buy whatever else you need later, if anything.

I got the kit off Amazon and did all three. Only really needed the battery contact.

Thanks Durk. Ive got the auto trans/1.8kw. My local shop doesn't have any of the parts in stock, so I'm ordering.

How are you guys determining whether you need the 1.4kw or the 1.8kw?
 
The 1.4 I believe is small enough to remove from the engine and on a bench. The larger, more common one is the 1.8 which has to be rebuilt in the engine which is a major pain.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,109
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top