Jack Stand Paranoia & Lift Questions

[ArcticEd]

I just got the OW 2.5" kit and intend to install it tomorrow. I've done plenty of work on cars over the years but never suspension and never on a truck this big (last vehicle was a CR-V). I've read the instructions and the RM so much I can almost draw it and am looking forward to the challenge.

I've had a 4-ton Craftsman floor jack for some time and have 4 6-ton Torin jack stands. I know these are fine from a capacity standpoint, but after doing a dry run of getting the front up on stands today I guess I'm a little paranoid:
1) The top of the jack stands aren't quite wide enough to straddle the frame, so it doesn't sit in the cradle - just the points. Is that an issue, and if so what do you do about it? I read a post where someone used hockey pucks to fill in the cradle, but we don't have a lot of those laying around in FL. I gave it a couple of good shakes and it didn't seem to move, but it just doesn't look as solid as I'd like it to.
2) With only one end up it doesn't sit completely flat on the stands due to the angle. Any concerns about it sliding forward/backward or the stands moving when lifting up the other end? I'm assuming I don't want to raise the back significantly higher than the front to avoid having it slide forward on the stands, but I also assume you'd have to raise it SIGNIFICANTLY higher than the front for that to happen.
3) I used the cross-member to lift the front and could swear I got the floor jack right in the middle, but the passenger side came up almost a full inch higher than the driver's side - is that normal? It settled on the stands fine but seems strange for it to lift "crooked".

A few lift-specific questions:
1) Anyone have a general idea of how high you need to get the truck for a 3/2 lift? I got it up to the 6th notch on the stands (20.5", see paranoia above) and there seems to be plenty of room for the front, just curious if that would seem to be enough. My tires are still stock.
2) Is there any trick to getting the UCA bolt out? A quick look makes it seem like there wouldn't be enough space but I've never heard anyone talk about problems either. I'll be putting on the Light Racing UCA's in addition to the 2.5" kit.
3) Any other trouble points I might expect and prepare for?

TIA for the time!
Chris

 

[KCcarguy]

I'm no expert, but here goes

My jackstands weren't wide enough. I just centered them and went for it....I also have a habit of putting the wheels/ tires under the truck as a "back-up"[/B]
2) With only one end up it doesn't sit completely flat on the stands due to the angle. Any concerns about it sliding forward/backward or the stands moving when lifting up the other end? I'm assuming I don't want to raise the back significantly higher than the front to avoid having it slide forward on the stands, but I also assume you'd have to raise it SIGNIFICANTLY higher than the front for that to happen.
I only raised one end at a time (opposite end chocked). I think it's safer
3) I used the cross-member to lift the front and could swear I got the floor jack right in the middle, but the passenger side came up almost a full inch higher than the driver's side - is that normal? It settled on the stands fine but seems strange for it to lift "crooked".
I raised right and left sides separately and used the frame not the crossmember

A few lift-specific questions:
1) Anyone have a general idea of how high you need to get the truck for a 3/2 lift? I got it up to the 6th notch on the stands (20.5", see paranoia above) and there seems to be plenty of room for the front, just curious if that would seem to be enough. My tires are still stock.
Just raise the tuck until the tires no longer touch....this will be plenty of space to install the lift. Wait to raise it more when you mount tires after (safer)
2) Is there any trick to getting the UCA bolt out? A quick look makes it seem like there wouldn't be enough space but I've never heard anyone talk about problems either. I'll be putting on the Light Racing UCA's in addition to the 2.5" kit
3) Any other trouble points I might expect and prepare for? Get one or two friends to help you.
TIA for the time!
Chris

Good Luck!

 

[tlflow]

I just got the OW 2.5" kit and intend to install it tomorrow. I've done plenty of work on cars over the years but never suspension and never on a truck this big (last vehicle was a CR-V). I've read the instructions and the RM so much I can almost draw it and am looking forward to the challenge.

I've had a 4-ton Craftsman floor jack for some time and have 4 6-ton Torin jack stands. I know these are fine from a capacity standpoint, but after doing a dry run of getting the front up on stands today I guess I'm a little paranoid:
1) The top of the jack stands aren't quite wide enough to straddle the frame, so it doesn't sit in the cradle - just the points. Is that an issue, and if so what do you do about it? I read a post where someone used hockey pucks to fill in the cradle, but we don't have a lot of those laying around in FL. I gave it a couple of good shakes and it didn't seem to move, but it just doesn't look as solid as I'd like it to.
2) With only one end up it doesn't sit completely flat on the stands due to the angle. Any concerns about it sliding forward/backward or the stands moving when lifting up the other end? I'm assuming I don't want to raise the back significantly higher than the front to avoid having it slide forward on the stands, but I also assume you'd have to raise it SIGNIFICANTLY higher than the front for that to happen.
3) I used the cross-member to lift the front and could swear I got the floor jack right in the middle, but the passenger side came up almost a full inch higher than the driver's side - is that normal? It settled on the stands fine but seems strange for it to lift "crooked".

A few lift-specific questions:
1) Anyone have a general idea of how high you need to get the truck for a 3/2 lift? I got it up to the 6th notch on the stands (20.5", see paranoia above) and there seems to be plenty of room for the front, just curious if that would seem to be enough. My tires are still stock.
2) Is there any trick to getting the UCA bolt out? A quick look makes it seem like there wouldn't be enough space but I've never heard anyone talk about problems either. I'll be putting on the Light Racing UCA's in addition to the 2.5" kit.
3) Any other trouble points I might expect and prepare for?

TIA for the time!
Chris

I would use 2' jackstands at least. Tractor supply has them. Be safe.

 

[Mijfwb23]

I used 4 ton stands and had tons of clearance, remember with the wheels off you have a lot more room to move the lower arm outta the way.
I lifted one side and placed a jack stand under it and then moved to the other side and did the same. then I went to the other side and lifted it higher to give me room. I think I had it almost to the last notch, maybe the one before last. Remember to chock your back tires before hand. I never worried about it falling off the stands, also my stands cradled the frame almost perfectly. I just don't like lifting the whole front end from one pivot point that's why I did it the way I did. Also I only lifted the front when I did the front and then the back when I did the back, not the whole truck at once. Reason: I only had two stands.
-- Make sure you support the rotor/spindle when you disconnect the shock so that it doesn't drop and stress the ABS/speed sensor cable.
Haven't done UCAs yet so cant help you on that, but I think I read somewhere on the forums that you need to get them out through the engine compartment not the wheel well.
Good luck, my install was easy except for the KDSS suspension but that only slowed me down alittle.

 

[phillyd2]

If I'm not mistaken all 4 wheels need to be up to more easily remove xreas.

 

[ArcticEd]

If I'm not mistaken all 4 wheels need to be up to more easily remove xreas.

Yep - that's why I need it off of all 4.

Got rained out anyway; won't be able to do it until later this week :ybrick:

Thanks for the replies so far; any additional info appreciated

 

[harper7]

Yep - that's why I need it off of all 4.

Got rained out anyway; won't be able to do it until later this week :ybrick:

Thanks for the replies so far; any additional info appreciated

My jack stands(safety stands) don't have rubber attachments.As stated I always put a couple of the wheels I take off and put them under the truck for extra safety.

Here's the instructions out of the repair manual .

(a) Work on a level surface. Use wheel chocks at all times.
(b) Use safety stands with rubber attachments as shown in the illustration.
(c) Set the jack and safety stands exactly under the specified locations on the vehicle.
(d) Do not work on or leave the vehicle supported only by a jack. Be sure to support the vehicle with safety stands.
(e) When jacking up the vehicle, first release the parking brake and move the shift lever to N.

(f) When jacking up the entire vehicle:
(1) When jacking up the front wheels first, make sure wheel chocks are behind the rear wheels.
(2) When jacking up the rear wheels first, make sure wheel chocks are in front of the front wheels.
(g) When jacking up only the front or rear wheels of the vehicle:
(1) Before jacking up the front wheels, place wheel chocks on both sides of the rear wheels.
(2) Before jacking up the rear wheels, place wheel chocks on both sides of the front wheels.

Jacking(round,front and rear) and jack stand positions

 

[ArcticEd]

Thanks Harper - I'll think I'll be putting all 4 tires under the frame in the process.

I don't understand releasing the parking brake & putting it in N - doesn't that maximize the chance of one end moving while the other is being lifted?

 

[Mijfwb23]

If I'm not mistaken all 4 wheels need to be up to more easily remove xreas.

You guys and your crazy Limited's

 

[JB.]

Good advice about the tires underneath.

I use 6 stands. 2 are for backup and move around to whichever end I'm working under.

 

[Overland Warehouse]

My jack stands(safety stands) don't have rubber attachments.As stated I always put a couple of the wheels I take off and put them under the truck for extra safety.

Here's the instructions out of the repair manual .

(a) Work on a level surface. Use wheel chocks at all times.
(b) Use safety stands with rubber attachments as shown in the illustration.
(c) Set the jack and safety stands exactly under the specified locations on the vehicle.
(d) Do not work on or leave the vehicle supported only by a jack. Be sure to support the vehicle with safety stands.
(e) When jacking up the vehicle, first release the parking brake and move the shift lever to N.

(f) When jacking up the entire vehicle:
(1) When jacking up the front wheels first, make sure wheel chocks are behind the rear wheels.
(2) When jacking up the rear wheels first, make sure wheel chocks are in front of the front wheels.
(g) When jacking up only the front or rear wheels of the vehicle:
(1) Before jacking up the front wheels, place wheel chocks on both sides of the rear wheels.
(2) Before jacking up the rear wheels, place wheel chocks on both sides of the front wheels.

Jacking(round,front and rear) and jack stand positions

Good post!!! Safety first.

The wheels under is a nice touch that many use on the trail, when things are not as readily available.

 

[ArcticEd]

Bump for this specific question regarding lifting the vehicle in general; goes against everything I've always thought...

I don't understand releasing the parking brake & putting it in N - doesn't that maximize the chance of one end moving while the other is being lifted?

Side note - installing the lift tomorrow - can't wait! :hungry:

 

[Overland Warehouse]

Bump for this specific question regarding lifting the vehicle in general; goes against everything I've always thought...



Side note - installing the lift tomorrow - can't wait! :hungry:

Rather use good wheel chocks to prevent the wheels from moving, using the parking brake and driveline can load up a little and cause more shift.

Also it is best to get all 4 wheels off the ground with the wheels still on the axles, till everything is stable. This way of something happens the truck will land on the wheels.

I will also be easier to lift and stabilize the front with IFS first before the rear axle.

 

[tlflow]

let us know how it turns out (pics)

 

[M1911]

Bump for this specific question regarding lifting the vehicle in general; goes against everything I've always thought...

Me too. I always place the truck in park, set the parking brake firmly, and place chocks.