Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build

[phattyduck]

Does your piggyback also use MAF voltage for fueling? You might be able to clamp the voltage to the ECU but use the 'correct' voltage for the piggyback. I can give suggestions if you need them.

At some point, it seems like a standalone would be the best choice, though CA emissions is an issue, I suppose...

-Charlie

 

[gamefreakgc]

Does your piggyback also use MAF voltage for fueling? You might be able to clamp the voltage to the ECU but use the 'correct' voltage for the piggyback. I can give suggestions if you need them.

At some point, it seems like a standalone would be the best choice, though CA emissions is an issue, I suppose...

-Charlie

If I could I would have gone standalone from the start so I could just advance timing and have complete control. Not possible in CA if I ever want to drive it on a road again though as it's an insta-fail without the stock ECU. It won't interface with the readers they use.

That being said, the stock ECU does look at MAF voltage for fueling. So yes, if I clamp the MAF voltage to try and increase timing, I will run lean if I do not add fuel manually. The AEM FIC always shows me the true voltage coming in from the MAF as it intercepts the signal as well as shows me the modified or clamped voltage going out to the ECU to trick it into not seeing as much boost.

You wouldn't happen to know the maximum MAF voltage at WOT on a stock 5VZ-FE engine though would you? I don't have that value and it would be a huge help if I could find it. I'm not about to take off my supercharger and convert it back to N/A just to find out...

 

[gamefreakgc]

Currently been fighting my tune a bit. It's running too rich in partial boost after the camshaft and 225 cc/min nozzle installation. I think what is happening is there's more fuel coming in then the ECU can adjust for.

Will post up my updated fuel map once I get it all figured out.

 

[gamefreakgc]

My idle has been getting worse lately and I've started getting a ticking noise at startup and when cruising on the highway. I thought it was a flexplate problem but I checked the flexplate and it's all good. Decided to check my spark plugs and do a compression check and here's what I got (don't fret over the low compression, aftermarket cams):

Cylinder 1: 120 PSI
Cylinder 2: 120 PSI
Cylinder 3: 120 PSI
Cylinder 4: 120 PSI
Cylinder 5: 120 PSI
Cylinder 6: 50 PSI

So I think either a valve is out of spec or I burnt/cracked a valve causing both the noise and the choppy idle. Fun times.

 

[Speedy]

Will be interesting to see what you find, how'd the plugs look?

Gonna do a leak down next to see where it's coming from?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Will be interesting to see what you find, how'd the plugs look?

Gonna do a leak down next to see where it's coming from?

Plugs looked ok, they were clean but had a bit of soot on them. I think I might need to lean out my partial boost a little bit, it was running rich when I was fighting the water/meth tune, sometimes dipping into the 10's.

I can't remember if I bought a leak down tester or rented one. I can't seem to find it so I might have rented it. I'm hoping it's just a valve shim that's out of spec, perhaps the intake is stuck open a little or something like that. If it's my pistons rings... I might be screwed. I took a peek down the spark plug hole and there's a lot of carbon buildup in #6. I was super happy about the rest though, they were shiny silver metal on top, one was so clean I could still read the casting marks! Water injection ftw!

 

[Speedy]

Nah, 3.4 motors are pretty cheap these days I think. Just a little labor

 

[gamefreakgc]

Nah, 3.4 motors are pretty cheap these days I think. Just a little labor

At this point it wouldn't be a simple swap, I've replaced so many parts on the engine I have... lol...

 

[mtnkid85]

Dang, sorry to hear about that low comp on 6. Yep, do a leak down test to put your mind at ease and we will hope its in the valve train.

 

[gamefreakgc]

On a plus side, I PASSED CALIFORNIA SMOG!! That's with the methanol injection system (I took the nozzle out though), 2.1" pulley, headers, etc. My numbers were actually lower than the last time I had it smogged! I used this product and it was fantastic:

Last time I had it smogged my 4Runner barely passed, it had high HC & NO. This time, the numbers were:

HC : 11 PPM (max 51)
CO%: 0.01% (max 0.65)
NO: 234 PPM (Max 512)

I'm really impressed since I was going in expecting to fail the test.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Camshaft Update

I've been having a valve tick for over a month, which has turned into a outright stumble and I started losing gas mileage and power. Once I started losing power I knew what it was: my valves were out of adjustment despite doing a valve adjustment when I put the Colt camshafts in. Here's my theory as in why:

1. The Colt Cams camshafts have the same lift on the exhaust side, but almost 40% more lift on the intake side.
2. Because the cams have more lift, the stock valve springs with 200k+ miles on them compressed just a tiny bit due to extra stress on the springs.
3. 6 of the 9 valves that are out of spec are intake valves and all had gaps that were too big. Normally, intake valves rarely go out of spec and it's the exhaust valves that have issues. I believe this is due to the extra lift.
4. I may have to do this again until the springs completely settle into their new positions with the extra lift.

I don't have it running yet, but that now brings me to 21 shims I've had to replace since installing the cams. Yikes. You should see my shim pile I have in the tool box.

 

[Stiffmeister]

I've finally finished my rebuild but it's not running correctly. It's kind of surging like when your timing get's retarded. Not exactly sure what to do on the electronics side of things.

Heads were completely rebuilt with new valves, guides, seals. Bored .020 over with 9:1 pistons. Other than just replacing parts, I did install Doug Thorley headers. I was able to torque everything down before installing the motor. Just checked crossover pipe which did require a few more spins after 100 miles.

So double checked SC vacuum lines with YotaShop diagram (used that ten years ago). Replace both sensors in the exhaust, just installed new coil packs. Going to verify I didn't do something as stupid as putting the timing belt on facing wrong way. Other than that, if it doesn't run correctly now..I have to go to a shop. I have no way of checking the electronics. It does have the six injector URD setup with PCU. I do not have PCU software or any A/F sensor equipment

Nice work with the cams. Had I known about them, I would have installed them. No meth injection for me because if it runs out while driving...oops. I just want my truck with good grunt and reliable.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've finally finished my rebuild but it's not running correctly. It's kind of surging like when your timing get's retarded. Not exactly sure what to do on the electronics side of things.

Heads were completely rebuilt with new valves, guides, seals. Bored .020 over with 9:1 pistons. Other than just replacing parts, I did install Doug Thorley headers. I was able to torque everything down before installing the motor. Just checked crossover pipe which did require a few more spins after 100 miles.

So double checked SC vacuum lines with YotaShop diagram (used that ten years ago). Replace both sensors in the exhaust, just installed new coil packs. Going to verify I didn't do something as stupid as putting the timing belt on facing wrong way. Other than that, if it doesn't run correctly now..I have to go to a shop. I have no way of checking the electronics. It does have the six injector URD setup with PCU. I do not have PCU software or any A/F sensor equipment

Nice work with the cams. Had I known about them, I would have installed them. No meth injection for me because if it runs out while driving...oops. I just want my truck with good grunt and reliable.

Valve clearances and camshaft position is easy to get wrong. Did you check all clearances after you have the new valves put in?

A cheapo bluetooth code reader and the Torque app will tell you at least if the engine is running rich/lean.

 

[Stiffmeister]

I took it to a guy to read codes. He was kind of a jerk so I won't be going back..however I got a B1S1 sensor (which I just replaced). Crawled under today and found out it was disconnected. Verified 12V on the heater portion. Also read the resistance but it was 8 ohms. Dude say's it should be 11-16 ohms but whatever.

Second code was a P0330. I guess there is no signal from the knock sensor. I'm not sure if URD's PCU is involved in that wiring. It's been 13 years for crying out loud. Although I installed a new knock sensor harness, I guess I should have replaced both knock sensors at 303k. I did not read codes before pulling the motor.

Do you have a URD setup? I will purchase two knock sensors since it's a PITA but I would like to verify I have continuity between the sensor harness and the ECU. Trying to find install instructions now on the PCU that I soldered up so long ago.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I took it to a guy to read codes. He was kind of a jerk so I won't be going back..however I got a B1S1 sensor (which I just replaced). Crawled under today and found out it was disconnected. Verified 12V on the heater portion. Also read the resistance but it was 8 ohms. Dude say's it should be 11-16 ohms but whatever.

Second code was a P0330. I guess there is no signal from the knock sensor. I'm not sure if URD's PCU is involved in that wiring. It's been 13 years for crying out loud. Although I installed a new knock sensor harness, I guess I should have replaced both knock sensors at 303k. I did not read codes before pulling the motor.

Do you have a URD setup? I will purchase two knock sensors since it's a PITA but I would like to verify I have continuity between the sensor harness and the ECU. Trying to find install instructions now on the PCU that I soldered up so long ago.

No, I have an AEM FIC 6. If you post up in the Supercharger thread, a lot of people who watch that do have the URD system.

 

[Stiffmeister]

Been a LONG time but I saw my ECU today. It doesn't look like the knock sensor wires are used in the PCU.

I used hair clips with paper clips taped together. Connected them on the main wiring harness. Put the paper clip in in the knock sensor harness but CROSSED the wires. Code went from P0330 to PO325 which followed the suspected bad knock sensor.

I did learn that pulling the battery cable for two minutes does clear the codes. Just have to replace both knock sensors (to be safe). Hopefully project supercharged 4Runner will be good to go again.

K&N, AirRaid intake, 1st gen supercharger, 2.2" URD pulley, 9.0:1 CP pistons, LCE main pulley, Doug Thorley headers, URD 305cc injectors & PCU. DONE.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I've been having a valve tick for over a month, which has turned into a outright stumble and I started losing gas mileage and power. Once I started losing power I knew what it was: my valves were out of adjustment despite doing a valve adjustment when I put the Colt camshafts in. Here's my theory as in why:

1. The Colt Cams camshafts have the same lift on the exhaust side, but almost 40% more lift on the intake side.
2. Because the cams have more lift, the stock valve springs with 200k+ miles on them compressed just a tiny bit due to extra stress on the springs.
3. 6 of the 9 valves that are out of spec are intake valves and all had gaps that were too big. Normally, intake valves rarely go out of spec and it's the exhaust valves that have issues. I believe this is due to the extra lift.
4. I may have to do this again until the springs completely settle into their new positions with the extra lift.

I don't have it running yet, but that now brings me to 21 shims I've had to replace since installing the cams. Yikes. You should see my shim pile I have in the tool box.

Well, it's running again and the power is back, but the idle is still terrible. I think my valves are damaged or I've lost compression. I need more time to diagnose with a leak-down test, but pretty sure my engine has some issues beyond the low compression in cylinder 6 that's been there for years. Looks like I might be in the market for a used engine in the next year or so, can't afford right now.

 

[Stiffmeister]

You probably know that LC Engineering sells springs for cams. I did not see cams for sale on their site (or know about Colt cams during rebuild).

Hopefully your leakdown test will indicate bad valves on that one cylinder. Then maybe you can just do the heads and replace the springs. Of course..pulling heads in the engine is no fun. I just posted what to "listen for" on the other thread. I need to figure out what's needed to check valve clearance on this. Mine's not making a bad tick now..but I'll need to check it down the line.

 

[gamefreakgc]

You probably know that LC Engineering sells springs for cams. I did not see cams for sale on their site (or know about Colt cams during rebuild).

Hopefully your leakdown test will indicate bad valves on that one cylinder. Then maybe you can just do the heads and replace the springs. Of course..pulling heads in the engine is no fun. I just posted what to "listen for" on the other thread. I need to figure out what's needed to check valve clearance on this. Mine's not making a bad tick now..but I'll need to check it down the line.

You'll need the special service tools as well as a small feeler gauge. It is not for the faint of heart. To adjust the valve, you have to remove the shim, figure out the correct size needed and order it from Toyota, then put it back in. All of this done while the cams are still in the engine (can't take the intake cams off at least).

 

[gamefreakgc]

So, oddly enough after letting the fuel trims settle in a bit after the second valve adjustment, the engine is actually fairly happy. Still not at 100% and the idle is rough, but it's not terrible. Might have something to do with the change of temperature though, it's more in the 70's now instead of the 90's. It always has idled rough in hot summer weather.

But if it stays like this I'll be pretty happy and probably keep modding it instead of a rebuild, at least not yet. Rebuilt IS in the future, it's just a matter of how far out.