Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build

[brillo_76]

I knew those of you that deal with REAL rust would get a kick out of this ha! I'm spoiled and I know it.

I'm not too worried about the paint lasting as I'm with you, I think the heat will eventually cause it to flake off. But event with some flaking paint it'll still look better than it was before and this was an easy job.

Yes.. It will. well at least it does here. You are correct though.. I paint and repaint etc just so it looks better..

I can tell you that corroseal under por15/kbs seal is not a good idea. It will flake off via my experiments..

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

I knew those of you that deal with REAL rust would get a kick out of this ha! I'm spoiled and I know it.

I'm not too worried about the paint lasting as I'm with you, I think the heat will eventually cause it to flake off. But event with some flaking paint it'll still look better than it was before and this was an easy job.

Don't lie, you were just looking for an excuse to huff paint lol.

 

[gamefreakgc]

4Runner is in the shop (first time in many years) for the 5.29 gear installation. A recap on why I went with 5.29's is seen in the chart below. I wanted to mirror the 5-speed gearing with a little bit shorter 1st gear. I drove my friend's supercharger with a modified 5-speed from Marlin Crawler that had a shortened 1st gear and really liked how it drove. This chart assumes you have the stock 265/70R16 tire size. I think the 4.88's would also be a great choice if anyone is considering the same thing.

Will have a slightly shorter 2nd gear as well which is also fine with me as 2nd gear is WAY TOO BIG for my engine and tire setup. I don't need to go from 0-80 MPH in one gear shift. It lugs down low and doesn't stay in the power band like I want it to. The only downside for me is that I've lowered the top speed of my 4Runner from 169 MPH to 132 MPH, if that is even a downside! I think by 120 MPH the thing will want to lift off the ground due to lack of downforce though haha!

 

[Speedy]

Will be curious what you think.

 

[gamefreakgc]

4Runner is back home from the shop! I just completed the first few drives based on the shops recommendation to help break in the new gears. Will take a full 500 miles to fully break them in before I can do any heavy acceleration to avoid overheating the differential. My initial observations are that is has drastically moved forward not just the shifts but also the RPMs as I had hoped it would. It now shifts into 4th gear with torque converter lockup by 40 MPH! It zips through the gears very fast under light throttle, more like a modern transmission does. It drives like a 6-speed auto based on others I've driven, except without the last two gears. It turns about 2900 RPM at 70 MPH on the freeway but it isn't as loud as I thought it might be so it's actually quiet and refined. So far I like how it's turned out but I'll update next month once I hit 500 miles and change the oil. Then the real test begins.

 

[Speedy]

Great update! YEARS ago I had a 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 single cab manual trans. Had the 22RE motor. I put some 31x10.50s on it on 10" wide chrome wagon spokes and it looked the business but was a D O G dog. I went from what I think were 4.10 gears to 4.88s and it really helped the driving experience.

 

[gamefreakgc]

5.29 gears are finally broken in. During this time I got Covid again... which for me is a multi-month recovery process. I finally got to the point where I could change the oil at 500 miles and drive it how I want to although I haven't done any WOT runs as I want to break in the gear a little bit more. Here's the short version of the pros and cons:

Pros

• Much better acceleration off the line, I rarely go into boost now driving around town.
• For mountain highway and freeway driving the RPM's are closer to the powerband.
• The engine avoids the 2000-2500 RPM 'ping zone' and I have not heard it ping once since the gear change.
• The throttle is much more responsive and it rarely downshifts.
• The exhaust drones a lot less as it stays out of the 2100 RPM drone zone when cruising on the highway.

Cons

• There is noise from the rear end although switching to 85W-140 Lucas Heavy Duty oil helped reduced the noise dramatically. Before that it was very loud.
• Gas mileage impact is unknown but the engine turns at a much higher RPM, about 2900 at 70 MPH.
• It's expensive! Cost around $1500 for install, more than I had budgeted.

I want to settle the gears in more and then record a few WOT runs to show the before/after. The 4Runner is so responsive to throttle now its begging to be let loose!

 

[Speedy]

Good update. I've forgotten your tire size (265/75R16)? Which exhaust? Stock or other?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Good update. I've forgotten your tire size (265/75R16)? Which exhaust? Stock or other?

Just the stock 265/70R16 tires. My exhaust is Doug Thorley headers -> 2.5" Magnaflow cat -> 3" Borla muffler and piping. The larger exhaust makes a considerable amount of noise.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

5.29 gears are finally broken in. During this time I got Covid again... which for me is a multi-month recovery process. I finally got to the point where I could change the oil at 500 miles and drive it how I want to although I haven't done any WOT runs as I want to break in the gear a little bit more. Here's the short version of the pros and cons:

Pros

• Much better acceleration off the line, I rarely go into boost now driving around town.
• For mountain highway and freeway driving the RPM's are closer to the powerband.
• The engine avoids the 2000-2500 RPM 'ping zone' and I have not heard it ping once since the gear change.
• The throttle is much more responsive and it rarely downshifts.
• The exhaust drones a lot less as it stays out of the 2100 RPM drone zone when cruising on the highway.

Cons

• There is noise from the rear end although switching to 85W-140 Lucas Heavy Duty oil helped reduced the noise dramatically. Before that it was very loud.
• Gas mileage impact is unknown but the engine turns at a much higher RPM, about 2900 at 70 MPH.
• It's expensive! Cost around $1500 for install, more than I had budgeted.

I want to settle the gears in more and then record a few WOT runs to show the before/after. The 4Runner is so responsive to throttle now its begging to be let loose!

Hold on is it normal for our engines to ping at 2000-2500 under load? Mine has a bit of resonant engine noise (idk if I would describe it as metallic so I've never been sure if it was pinging/knock) at that range, especially in 3rd gear before it makes more of a smooth engine noise again and it's been bugging me. Is this something I should be worried about? Running 85 octane in it but I am up in Denver, can't remember if it made that noise when I experimented with higher octane. Also can't remember if it's been like that since I bought the truck in October.

 

[phattyduck]

Hold on is it normal for our engines to ping at 2000-2500 under load?

No supercharger? Then no. With supercharger? Maybe. The knock sensor is ignored below 3k RPM, so any knocking down low doesn't get corrected for.

-Charlie

 

[Speedy]

Just the stock 265/70R16 tires. My exhaust is Doug Thorley headers -> 2.5" Magnaflow cat -> 3" Borla muffler and piping. The larger exhaust makes a considerable amount of noise.

Gotcha. I played with the exhaust on mine many years ago and it always sounded like complete ass so I went back to the stock system. I was really hoping for something a little more throaty and no drone but never could find that sweet spot.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Gotcha. I played with the exhaust on mine many years ago and it always sounded like complete ass so I went back to the stock system. I was really hoping for something a little more throaty and no drone but never could find that sweet spot.

Every Toyota truck I've ever owned with an aftermarket exhaust has droned. The least amount of drone was when I had the stock piping and a Borla 18" PROXS muffler. It was a good combination of growl when I stepped on it and quiet when I didn't. If noise was an issue with me that's what I would have stayed with but I didn't because more power duh. I regularly set off car alarms just driving 25 MPH down my neighborhood.

 

[TW44LR]

Every Toyota truck I've ever owned with an aftermarket exhaust has droned. The least amount of drone was when I had the stock piping and a Borla 18" PROXS muffler. It was a good combination of growl when I stepped on it and quiet when I didn't. If noise was an issue with me that's what I would have stayed with but I didn't because more power duh. I regularly set off car alarms just driving 25 MPH down my neighborhood.

The magnaflow overland series catback exhaust is really good at being throaty but not having a drone at highway speeds due to the heimholtz resonator. It also has 3 different options for exhaust note depending on how you open it up but I think you lose the resonator and I would assume it would drone. I haven’t ran it that way so I’m not 100% sure. It seems to be pretty popular among forum members and it might be my favorite mod I’ve done to date. Just some food for thought.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Speedy]

I ran a Flowmaster 40 series on my 1999 Tacoma TRD and it sounded great, but that truck was a manual so it didn't have droan issues.

 

[IEatPieLeftHanded]

The location of that gauge is genius!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Build a cover to seal up the aFe air dam I've been using for the past couple of years. In the winter the intake air temperature is normally only 10-20 degrees over ambient but in the summer time it can spike up to 30 degrees over ambient and suck in 120-130 degree air and increases chances of the engine pinging. I spent half the day today building this out of 1/8" ABS plastic that I bought off Amazon: Amazon.com

Also bought some rare earth magnets to make it secure but removable: Amazon.com

Started with some cardboard and cut some templates to size.

Next cut the templates out using my handy dandy Harbor Freight jigsaw with a scroll blade for tight turns and cuts.

Secured the magnets on the tabs with JB weld SteelStik epoxy putty. It is not as strong as JB weld epoxy but much easier to use and sets very quickly in comparison.

I made a lower cover as hot air was coming in to the intake straight off the headers when at a stop. I had some spare timing belt rubber gasket so put that on the edges for a nice fit and no rubbing.

And finally, some before and after.

Pretty happy with how it looks and how it turned out. Sometime soon I'll test the intake air temps while driving and when idling after getting the engine nice and hot to see if it made a difference! I think it should but one can never be sure.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Took it for a spin today to see if it lowered the intake temperature - and it did! Average of 10 degrees cooler now and super excited that it actually worked!!

I tested it with no cover and then again with a cover on. It was 82* degrees out today and I had max A/C throughout the test. I recorded three temperatures: freeway driving at 65 MPH, arriving at my house after some city driving, and after 5 minutes of idling.

First without the cover:
Freeway temp range - 100*-105.8*, 18-23.8 degrees over ambient
Arriving at house, city driving - 121*, 39 degrees over ambient
Idle 5 minutes - 138.2*, 56.2 degrees over ambient!

With the cover installed:
Freeway temp range - 89.6*-95*, 7.6-13 degrees over ambient (reduction of 10.4-10.8 degrees)
Arriving at house, city driving - 112*, 30 degrees over ambient (reduction of 9 degrees)
Idle 5 minutes - 134.6*, 52.6 degrees over ambient! (reduction of 3.6 degrees)

Results are over 10 degrees cooler on the freeway. There's a 1% gain in power every ten degrees cooled, so I gained more power from a colder intake charge. What doesn't show in this data is how much slower it heats up with the air chamber closed off. Both with or without would cool pretty fast once the vehicle was going around 40 MPH but with the cover it was at a lower temperature at all times. There was no saving the intake temperature from idling a long time, such as in a drive-through, as I think the walls of the air intake chamber itself were getting too hot.

For those that have an open cone filter element or a short RAM air intake right above the headers, take note that you're leaving power on the table by having the engine intake breathe in hot engine bay air. Hope this helps!

HP Increase:

+4 HP (1% power per 10 degrees cooler intake)

Running Total:

+168 HP

 

[gamefreakgc]

Just completed the first road trip with the new gears and I had wondered how it would fare with the change in RPM as it turns at about 2900 RPM on our interstates around here. On the full tank of gas we got, drum roll please...

20.57 MPG!

That's not only my best tank of gas with CA 91 E10 gas ever, it's the second best tank mileage I have ever got! Not only did the gears not decrease mileage, it actually decreased. My engine now never downshifts even up steep grades over 8% and the torque converter stays locked almost full-time now. All this with 500 lbs of extra people and gear in the 4Runner.

Note: CA switched to E10 back in 2016 so you'll see a lot of higher tanks before that. Many people saw about a 5-10% decrease in MPG immediately after the fuel change.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

Just completed the first road trip with the new gears and I had wondered how it would fare with the change in RPM as it turns at about 2900 RPM on our interstates around here. On the full tank of gas we got, drum roll please...

20.57 MPG!

That's not only my best tank of gas with CA 91 E10 gas ever, it's the second best tank mileage I have ever got! Not only did the gears not decrease mileage, it actually decreased. My engine now never downshifts even up steep grades over 8% and the torque converter stays locked almost full-time now. All this with 500 lbs of extra people and gear in the 4Runner.

Note: CA switched to E10 back in 2016 so you'll see a lot of higher tanks before that. Many people saw about a 5-10% decrease in MPG immediately after the fuel change.

How the hell did you have a 20 gallon fill up?