JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build & Maintenance Thread

[JoeT4R]

I will shamefully admit that my fuel filter job defeated me. A few nights ago, I attempted changing the filter yet again. I was able to get the flare nut going into the filter from the gas tank side out, but not the flare nut from the engine side. Turns out it had seized up on the fuel line and wouldn't spin freely. Into the shop it went. Two new fuel lines and a new fuel filter.

Date: 9/23/22
Mileage: 318,477

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[JoeT4R]

[MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] They came with the bushings and the nut that goes on the top of the shock, but that's it. I suppose I'll swap the other needed hardware from my 5100's over to these.

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[brillo_76]

I will shamefully admit that my fuel filter job defeated me. A few nights ago, I attempted changing the filter yet again. I was able to get the flare nut going into the filter from the gas tank side out, but not the flare nut from the engine side. Turns out it had seized up on the fuel line and wouldn't spin freely. Into the shop it went. Two new fuel lines and a new fuel filter.

Date: 9/23/22
Mileage: 318,477

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I had 1 of mine destroy the front line. Very common. Especially in rusty environment. Only chance you have is long flare nut wrenches and pb blaster for a week before. Then I antiseize the threads so it can't do it again.


I had other loose the back line as well.

Plus a 3rd blow the front brake line...:/
[ I replaced the line as soon as a bought it]



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[JoeT4R]

I had 1 of mine destroy the front line. Very common. Especially in rusty environment. Only chance you have is long flare nut wrenches and pb blaster for a week before. Then I antiseize the threads so it can't do it again.


I had other loose the back line as well.

Plus a 3rd blow the front brake line...:/
[ I replaced the line as soon as a bought it]



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I'm in Northern Virginia and I like to think I'm not in a rusty environment, although the roads do get treated with salt during colder months. I used line wrenches on it and PB blaster. But hey it happened so it is what it is. I'm just glad to have the truck back in better condition than what is was in when dropped off.

And now I have new fuel lines and a new fuel filter. So lesson learned. Dont eff with the fuel filter anymore! Lol.

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[brillo_76]

I'm in Northern Virginia and I like to think I'm not in a rusty environment, although the roads do get treated with salt during colder months. I used line wrenches on it and PB blaster. But hey it happened so it is what it is. I'm just glad to have the truck back in better condition than what is was in when dropped off.

And now I have new fuel lines and a new fuel filter. So lesson learned. Dont eff with the fuel filter anymore! Lol.

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If it's changed in normal intervals that will not happen. Yes virgina is in rust belt.[ lower section of it]

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[JoeT4R]

If it's changed in normal intervals that will not happen. Yes virgina is in rust belt.[ lower section of it]

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According to my maintenance records the last time I did my fuel filter was back in 2017 at 248K miles. Which I don't think is horrible, all things considered and given that Toyota calls it a "lifetime filter." I cry

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[brillo_76]

According to my maintenance records the last time I did my fuel filter was back in 2017 at 248K miles. Which I don't think is horrible, all things considered and given that Toyota calls it a "lifetime filter." I cry

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Wow.. I would try anti seize on the threads. Maybe that will help as 2017 is not that long.. :/

 

[JoeT4R]

Wow.. I would try anti seize on the threads. Maybe that will help as 2017 is not that long.. :/

Well seeing as it was just changed I don't plan to change it again anytime soon. So I'm going to leave it be. But if I have to change it again during my ownership then I will absolutely put anti seize on there.

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[brillo_76]

Well seeing as it was just changed I don't plan to change it again anytime soon. So I'm going to leave it be. But if I have to change it again during my ownership then I will absolutely put anti seize on there.

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Good plan. They also make like a thread sealing compound for pipe threads too that will work. As the goal is to keep threads from oxidizing together. I am surprised it stuck if you had it apart in 2017.. That's on thr odd side of things..

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[octanejunkie]

How about just plumber's tape on the threads?

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[Skulking]

How about just plumber's tape on the threads?

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Using plumbers tape on threads not meant for it can actually cause leaks. Also, they make it rated for natural gas, but I've never seen it rated for gasoline.

 

[JoeT4R]

Maybe some multipurpose grease might be worth a shot. Just a little bit if applied with a q-tip or something. I'm open to other suggestions too. But definitely not something that could cause a leak, not a chance.

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[brillo_76]

Maybe some multipurpose grease might be worth a shot. Just a little bit if applied with a q-tip or something. I'm open to other suggestions too. But definitely not something that could cause a leak, not a chance.

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I think grease would work too. You are just trying to seal of the oxygen to the threads. The flare will seal the joint off of gasoline.

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[JoeT4R]

While doing a once over of the rear socks, I stuck my phone at the top of the shock mounts and snapped these photos. They don't appear to be in horrible condition so I just need to get a good position in order to hold a socket on there. I'm definitely hopeful that this won't be a difficult job as I would like to get it done before the cold weather comes around.

EDIT 1/23/23: Man did this suck big time. It wasn't even the top nuts that gave me the issue, it was the bottom mount bolts. Sheesh. Glad this is done and over with.

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[phattyduck]

Still not too bad on the rust there, but definitely plan on some extra time to mitigate the rust in that area. Here's a non-rust-belt example (my 4Runner):

Probably drill out the drain hole bigger, clean the rust, encapsulate and paint the area to keep from loosing the upper shock mounts.

-Charlie

 

[JoeT4R]

Still not too bad on the rust there, but definitely plan on some extra time to mitigate the rust in that area. Here's a non-rust-belt example (my 4Runner):

Probably drill out the drain hole bigger, clean the rust, encapsulate and paint the area to keep from loosing the upper shock mounts.



-Charlie

That's reassuring to hear. I see photos of some other rigs that look absolutely incredible, almost like a brand new vehicle despite being 20+ years old. So I'll do what it takes to keep what I've got going and to prohibit any further rust than what has already occurred.

My only concern is the top mount and the workspace that's available to me. If I could take the truck into a shop and get it in the air I think I would have a way better advantage at getting the nut off the top. But I don't gave access to that, so I've gotta make due with what I have available to me.

I'm really hoping for an easy swap in and out. Not sure how I plan to compress the shock to align it with the hole in the lower mount. Have a few ideas though. I also watched a guy on YouTube do it by hand. Hoping to have an extra set of hands available when I do the job so that would be extra helpful.

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[octanejunkie]

My 4WD has access holes above those shock buckets that are taped over with gummy white tape from the topside, under the carpet in the cargo area. I was able to access the shock nuts from the cargo area.

Mounting the bottom eye of the shock on the axle is easy, just press it up and slip it on by hand. Grease on the bushings and studs helps.

 

[JoeT4R]

My 4WD has access holes above those shock buckets that are taped over with gummy white tape from the topside, under the carpet in the cargo area. I was able to access the shock nuts from the cargo area.

Mounting the bottom eye of the shock on the axle is easy, just press it up and slip it on by hand. Grease on the bushings and studs helps.

Dude that would be perfect! Do you happen to have any photos from when you did it?

I can access the top shock mount by going underneath the truck itself and just reaching up in there, wiggling through a bunch of stuff, or by going in through the side between the body and frame since I have a 1" body lift. I'm planning to try both to see which one works better. But I'm interested in this access point from the cargo area.

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[octanejunkie]

Dude that would be perfect! Do you happen to have any photos from when you did it?

I can access the top shock mount by going underneath the truck itself and just reaching up in there, wiggling through a bunch of stuff, or by going in through the side between the body and frame since I have a 1" body lift. I'm planning to try both to see which one works better. But I'm interested in this access point from the cargo area.

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I didn't take pictures but my 2WD does not have the same hole.I noticed it from underneath to pushed up with a screwdriver and the hole flexed, so I pulled up the carpet from the inside.

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[brillo_76]

I could be wrong. Someone had to cut those holes in as none of mine has those holes for your rear shocks.

I would see it in the parts mobile... so I will check the next time I am near it.

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