Just purchased a 92' few questions...

Awdtsi42o

New member
Hey guys,

Just purchased a 92' 2.4L 4WD with a manual transmission. I have a few questions, was hoping you guys could offer some advice:

1) The lighting for the heater/AC control is not working. Not a really big deal but if anyone knows how to replace the bulb that would be great.

2) When I turn on the heat and on the high setting, it seems like the blower motor makes a rumbling noise. Any advice on that?

3) What is the best site to buy parts (price, service)?

4) I have never owned a 4WD vehicle, how do I know if I have manual locking hubs? I didn't see anything on the center cap of the wheels. The sticker on the visor says you can switch into 4WD up to 55mph. I plan to do it while stopped, any other advice?

Thanks very much for any help,

Erick
 
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1. Your vehicle has ADD, or auto locking front hub. If you had manual hubs, you would know it. It would clearly have a locking mechanism in the hub.

2. Bad bearing most likely. Run it till it dies and then replace it. It may NEVER die. Mine rumbled for well over 5 years. :)


3. You can def. engage the 4wd while stopped, but the actual don't hesitate doing it at speed. Seriously. Unless your 4wd was broken, and then it is already broken, doing it under 55 mph will have 0 impact on it.

Any of us that have or do own a 2nd gen will tell you this. This makes it useful, as when you are driving on a road at 45 and you see/feel snow/ or other road type you want 4wd on; having to ALWAYS stop to transfer in would be annoying. It is very clearly built to operate while in motion. In fact, you probably won't feel the "clunk" of it engaging until you start moving anyway.
 
22re and a 5spd:hatsoff: Awesome engines just keep an eye on the timing chain and 5000km oil changes with the oem D1 filter.


Got any pics!
 
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Hey guys,

1) The lighting for the heater/AC control is not working. Not a really big deal but if anyone knows how to replace the bulb that would be great.

2) When I turn on the heat and on the high setting, it seems like the blower motor makes a rumbling noise. Any advice on that?

3) What is the best site to buy parts (price, service)?

4) I have never owned a 4WD vehicle, how do I know if I have manual locking hubs? I didn't see anything on the center cap of the wheels. The sticker on the visor says you can switch into 4WD up to 55mph. I plan to do it while stopped, any other advice?

Erick

Hi, I'll actually answer your questions in the order you asked!

1.) I just changed the bulb last week in my 4runner. It's very simple. First, pull all the climate control knobs off of the levers. Then, with a bit of finesse, pop the faceplate off of the controls. It helps to pull the cupholder tray out a bit so you can get behind the faceplate. Once the faceplate is off, you'll see a translucent bar that you need to pull out. The bulb is right behind that bar. Make sure you put that bar back since it diffuses the light evenly and prevents a bright spot in the middle of your heater controls. Easy! Also, I think the bulb I got was a 194.

2.) Your blower motor is going out. Not surprising for something that's 15+ years old. You can replace the whole motor or you can you clean it and regrease the bearings. You can leave it if you want, but you run the risk of blowing your resistor pack since the blower has a higher than normal draw on the electrical system. If this happens, you'll only be able to run your blower at full blast.

3.) The best website for me has been 1aauto.com. Their prices always seemed fair to me and they do a lot free shipping deals. It's still a hit n' miss deal though; I've found some better prices at places like Schuck's or Napa. Oh, and there's always ebay.

4.) If you didn't see anything on the center cap of the wheels, then you have the original ADD system. Honestly, it's a fine system if you're not doing any hardcore wheeling. It allows you to shift on the fly when going into 4hi without any problems (under 55mph of course!). You do still need to be stopped and in Neutral when going into 4lo. But either way, you don't need to get out of the vehicle to lock your hubs.

Have you tested your 4wheel drive yet?
 
Guys,

Thank you so much for all of your replies and all the great information! This forum and community seems like an awesome place to be, I am very grateful that I am a member.

I have not tested the 4 drive system on my 4 Runner yet but I was told it worked fine when I bought the vehicle. I wanted to get more information about how to use it before actually trying it. Now that I have that information I will be able to try it out.

Will get some pictures soon.

Thanks again for all of your help and replies.

Erick
 
Brake line questions...

Hey guys,

I replaced 4 sections of brake line on the two lines that run from the master cylinder to the rear LSPV. As soon as we started to bleed/ pump the brakes, another line is leaking that comes right out of the LSPV it goes to a rubber line near the differential. The lines are frozen and stripped and will not come out of the LSPV. A new LSPV from toyota is $150.

What is my best option here?

From another thread I figured out the correct summit proportioning valve that mounts near the master. This is about hundred bucks cheaper than the OEM toyota part.

Looking for the cheapest way to get this fixed properly. What would I have to change to run a Summit proportioning valve?

Any advice would be great.

Thanks,

Erick
 
Can anyone shed some light on my situation, I am trying to repair the brakes ASAP. I would like to have a bit more information before I proceed.

This is my plan: Running one line from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve to the rear of the car to that rubber line near the differential. From there the brake line goes to a t and splits to each rear wheel. If there is a problem or if I am not understanding something please let me know because this is my plan as of right now. I am going to attempt this as soon as I get some feedback.

Does anyone have any experience or a starting point for the adjustment on the summit proportioning valve I will be mounting near the master cylinder? I am not sure where I would start the adjusting knob so that the rear tires don't lock up and skid under hard braking.

Will I need any adapters to run this summit proportioning valve?

Summit Racing SUM-G3905 - Summit Racing® Brake Proportioning Valves - Summit Racing Equipment

Thank you very much for your time and any suggestions you may have it is greatly appreciated.

Erick
 
You may want to check your blower motor. I took my dash apart for other troubleshooting and I saw that my blower motor had a bunch of small leaves in it. I thought it was a bit random and funny but after a minute with a shop vac, my blower motor is nice and quiet.

As for your rear brakes, are they locking up on you now?
 
Does anyone have any experience or a starting point for the adjustment on the summit proportioning valve I will be mounting near the master cylinder? I am not sure where I would start the adjusting knob so that the rear tires don't lock up and skid under hard braking.

Will I need any adapters to run this summit proportioning valve?

Summit Racing SUM-G3905 - Summit Racing® Brake Proportioning Valves - Summit Racing Equipment

Thank you very much for your time and any suggestions you may have it is greatly appreciated.

Erick

I took a look at the instructions for the proportioning valve and all I can suggest is to follow Summit's directions. The minimum setting appears to be 57%, but that's probably way too low for having drum brakes in the rear (I've always heard 70/30 as a starting point). Trial and error will be your best bet. If you're doing a nose dive at every stop, then you don't have enough fluid going back. If the back tires lock up before the front (and start doing a 180), then obviously the opposite is true. I don't know about adapter requirements since I'm unsure of the brake line sizes.
 
Well, if if your heat smells bad...could be a mouse nest in the fan. Pretty common up here if a rig sits for a while.

110_0162.jpg~original
 

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