Key - keyhole (ignition) locks up - won't turn

[apwdweb]

Hi,

anyone have this happen before?

I have a small problem that i hope some of the experts here can answer.

98 4runner SR5 - Occassionally when i put my key into the keyhole to start my car, the keyhole refuses to turn to the right. I can still easily remove the key and try again and usually after anywhere from 7 - 25 tries it lets me turn the key to start the car. I've noticed recently that this "key locking up" has been happening more frequently.

I've tried using a different key when it has locked up but this doesn't free it. so my guess is it has somethign to do with the keyhole... any guidance as to how to fix this?

Your help is really appreciated
Thanks!

 

[Ron Helmuth]

try tugging at steering wheel

Does this usually happen when the wheels are not straight? meaning the steering wheel has been left "cockeyed" and the wheels at a slight angle?

IF you move the steering wheel while trying to turn the key does that help?

I have read it suggested before that you always try to back into your parking space -as an example-and straighten out the wheels as you go in-you want the front wheels to be pointing straight.

Otherwise it sounds like the cylinder mechanism itself may be loose or faulty.

 

[hepcat87]

yeah this happens to me every once in a while and its usually when im already running late for school or doctors app or something important

 

[edlab03]

try getting a new key made. mine was doing this a while back and getting a new key solved the problem.

 

[UpNorthMN]

Mine does this too. But I pull out the key, spin it 180 degrees and put it back in. Seems to work every time after that.

DM

 

[jamess]

Hey, I just got done with dealing with this exact issue in my 4Runner. 1997 SR5 140,000 miles. Mine started acting up a few months ago. I went and got a new key cut from the key code and this worked a little only that the key was almost inpossible to remove from the ignition. I kept using my old key that was easy to push in the ignition and remove from the ignition, but it would not turn most of the time. As time went on it got harder and harder to start / turn the ignition. It was to the point I thought it would not start and leave me stuck somewhere. Anyway, to get to the point, the ignition cylinder was worn out and needed to be replaced. The local dealership wanted $250-280 to replace it. They dont even do the work themselves, the sub it out to a lock smith. I ended up buying the ignition cylinder key set from the dealer for $104.62 before tax, you can find this part cheaper at Auto Zone or some other parts dealer, and I replaced it myself. If you have a Hanes or Chilton repair guide it will give you step by step instructions to replace it. It is very easy though. It took me about 10 minutes.

Step 1 - disconnect the battery so you do not risk setting off the air bags since you are workin gnear the steering column

Step 2 - remove the 4 bolts from the lower portion of the dash and drop the panel.

Step 3 - put the steering wheel in the lowest position

Step 4 - pop off the little bezel around the ignition

Step 5 - insert key and if possible turn it to the acc position

Step 6- insert a small screw driver in the hole in the underside of the ignition and pull out the entire assembly with the key.

Install of the new cylider is just the opposite.

Now, with the new ignition cylinder you will have new keys and it will not match your old key. The lock smith here in town told me he could rekey the ignition for $25. So, instead of being out $250-280 it cost about $113 for the ignition and $25 to rekey. `

 

[drmorbius]

Hi,

anyone have this happen before?

I have a small problem that i hope some of the experts here can answer.

98 4runner SR5 - Occassionally when i put my key into the keyhole to start my car, the keyhole refuses to turn to the right. I can still easily remove the key and try again and usually after anywhere from 7 - 25 tries it lets me turn the key to start the car. I've noticed recently that this "key locking up" has been happening more frequently.

I've tried using a different key when it has locked up but this doesn't free it. so my guess is it has somethign to do with the keyhole... any guidance as to how to fix this?

Your help is really appreciated
Thanks!

Try a shot of WD-40 in the keyhole.

 

[apwdweb]

Thansk!

Just wanted to say thanks to all the people who posted a reply to my problem.

THANKS!

 

[rbdhd]

I have a 1999 4Runner and I'm having the same problem with the key sometimes not wanting to come out when I turn it off. I've read here a lot about it being the cylinder, the key, or the shifter lock that is the problem. Does anyone know what is the problem here or is it just one of the 3 mentionr or a combo of those problems? I don't think it's the key as I've tried other keys and still get the problem.

dhd

 

[steezemcqueen]

double thread but disconnect the battery and try it

 

[RS Dude]

I think I know the problem, which I had about a year ago:

The ignition interlock mechanism is not retracting because of gunk or lack of lube. This is a small solenoid activated piston at the base of the ignition lock that is not retracting enough for the key to turn. Here is how I fixed it:

1. Remove lower panel below steering wheel.
2. Once you can see the ignition lock mechanism, fully saturate the tumblers and ignition iterlock mechanism with WD-40 or similar to clean and lightly lubricate the mechanism. Don't use graphite or similar because this tends to gum up the tumblers.
3. Once you get it working then about twice a year squirt WD-40 into all lock assemblies to keep them clean and lubed.:cowboy:

 

[downpour11]

I think I know the problem, which I had about a year ago:

The ignition interlock mechanism is not retracting because of gunk or lack of lube. This is a small solenoid activated piston at the base of the ignition lock that is not retracting enough for the key to turn. Here is how I fixed it:

1. Remove lower panel below steering wheel.
2. Once you can see the ignition lock mechanism, fully saturate the tumblers and ignition iterlock mechanism with WD-40 or similar to clean and lightly lubricate the mechanism. Don't use graphite or similar because this tends to gum up the tumblers.
3. Once you get it working then about twice a year squirt WD-40 into all lock assemblies to keep them clean and lubed.:cowboy:

I just replaced my lock cylinder 2 weeks ago, I tried the graphite and wd-40 (not together) and it seemed to make it worse! I was stuck at a gas pump for 45 minutes one day so I said screw it and bought a new lock cylinder for 85 bucks. Took me 10 minutes tops to install, I have 2 keys now but no big deal, at least now I can start my car... lol When it first locked up on me, I just started my new job as an assistant manager and I was 20 minutes late my first day!! haha they understood though but I was pretty embarrassed.

 

[johnnygraphic]

Hey, I just got done with dealing with this exact issue in my 4Runner. 1997 SR5 140,000 miles. Mine started acting up a few months ago. I went and got a new key cut from the key code and this worked a little only that the key was almost inpossible to remove from the ignition. I kept using my old key that was easy to push in the ignition and remove from the ignition, but it would not turn most of the time. As time went on it got harder and harder to start / turn the ignition. It was to the point I thought it would not start and leave me stuck somewhere. Anyway, to get to the point, the ignition cylinder was worn out and needed to be replaced. The local dealership wanted $250-280 to replace it. They dont even do the work themselves, the sub it out to a lock smith. I ended up buying the ignition cylinder key set from the dealer for $104.62 before tax, you can find this part cheaper at Auto Zone or some other parts dealer, and I replaced it myself. If you have a Hanes or Chilton repair guide it will give you step by step instructions to replace it. It is very easy though. It took me about 10 minutes.

Step 1 - disconnect the battery so you do not risk setting off the air bags since you are workin gnear the steering column

Step 2 - remove the 4 bolts from the lower portion of the dash and drop the panel.

Step 3 - put the steering wheel in the lowest position

Step 4 - pop off the little bezel around the ignition

Step 5 - insert key and if possible turn it to the acc position

Step 6- insert a small screw driver in the hole in the underside of the ignition and pull out the entire assembly with the key.

Install of the new cylider is just the opposite.

Now, with the new ignition cylinder you will have new keys and it will not match your old key. The lock smith here in town told me he could rekey the ignition for $25. So, instead of being out $250-280 it cost about $113 for the ignition and $25 to rekey. `

Thanks for this post!!! I have the same problem. Tried the WD-40 route. Didn't work very well. Still had the sticky key problem. Tried a new key. Worked great in the doors, but the ignition was still a problem. I just bought a new cylinder lock set for $90 or so (Dealer wanted $150+ AND another $250+ for re-keying). I will try this today or later this week.

Q: Will it be easier to get a locksmith to re-key the ignition before you put it in the dash?

Thanks!!!

Johnny

P.S. Just joined. Cool forum! Great info!

 

[Keepmy4runnin]

take the ignition cylinder out and have the tumblers replaced by a locksmith. Cost me less than 50 bucks and about 10 mins total taking in and out. you will keep the original matching keys.

 

[Keepmy4runnin]

Do not buy new cylinder. Take the one out of your rig and take it to a lock smith. That's what I did and it works brand new.

 

[Pikeman]

Had this happen to me when I stopped for gas in the middle of the desert. Had no choice but call a locksmith. Here is what was told to me.

Toyota uses a split wafer design in these ignitions, as they age and wear they can sometime jump onto each other, overlapping. This is what causes the bind. He ground it down and converted to the better single wafer design so that the problem can never happen again. Don't even want to know what it costs to have a mobile locksmith drive to find you in the middle of desert and do this repair.

If you are at home and have a friend that can take you to the locksmith, follow instructions for Lock removal spend the $50 to get it fixed(changed to single wafer) and put it back in. This way you keep factory key for all locks and is exponentially cheaper.

 

[AProperTune]

Hey, I just got done with dealing with this exact issue in my 4Runner. 1997 SR5 140,000 miles. Mine started acting up a few months ago. I went and got a new key cut from the key code and this worked a little only that the key was almost inpossible to remove from the ignition. I kept using my old key that was easy to push in the ignition and remove from the ignition, but it would not turn most of the time. As time went on it got harder and harder to start / turn the ignition. It was to the point I thought it would not start and leave me stuck somewhere. Anyway, to get to the point, the ignition cylinder was worn out and needed to be replaced. The local dealership wanted $250-280 to replace it. They dont even do the work themselves, the sub it out to a lock smith. I ended up buying the ignition cylinder key set from the dealer for $104.62 before tax, you can find this part cheaper at Auto Zone or some other parts dealer, and I replaced it myself. If you have a Hanes or Chilton repair guide it will give you step by step instructions to replace it. It is very easy though. It took me about 10 minutes.

Step 1 - disconnect the battery so you do not risk setting off the air bags since you are workin gnear the steering column

Step 2 - remove the 4 bolts from the lower portion of the dash and drop the panel.

Step 3 - put the steering wheel in the lowest position

Step 4 - pop off the little bezel around the ignition

Step 5 - insert key and if possible turn it to the acc position

Step 6- insert a small screw driver in the hole in the underside of the ignition and pull out the entire assembly with the key.

Install of the new cylider is just the opposite.

Now, with the new ignition cylinder you will have new keys and it will not match your old key. The lock smith here in town told me he could rekey the ignition for $25. So, instead of being out $250-280 it cost about $113 for the ignition and $25 to rekey. `

Thanks man! I was about to do it the hard way until i came across this thread.

 

[matburns9999]

How do you removed the cylinder if the key want turn?Ive tried everything it just will no longer turn...

 

[BigElk]

My 97 is doing the same thing. I went to the grocery store and came out with a full basket and I couldn't get the ignition to turn no matter what. I had to get it towed home. My door lock is sticky too. Whats the best way of getting the doors and ignition keyed alike? Do I just buy it all new from the stealer?

 

[BigElk]

If you have problems getting your key to move to the acc position try putting the steering wheel in the up position and then try again. It took me a while but by moving the steering wheel up and down I somehow got it to go into the acc position and then it all came apart easily.