King shocks update!

I’d love to ditch those S shaped bars anyways. They already hold the RCI skid like a 1/2” lower now lost another 3/4” to the sway bar drop...

Not sure why, they came that way and have curved king plates/stickers that we just left off. Liked em and they actually would clear the band clamps anyways. My goodness they ride nice though.
 
I'm going to call king directly tomorrow and see what they have laying around.....I really don't want to wait another 5-6 weeks.

I can deal with not having extended travel if that is all this is about....
 
Update - King told me 2-3 weeks max - even for custom orders. And they actually have some items in stock.

I originally ordered my set from Aiden James customs.

I'm not sure what was going on at Aiden James.

But, I just placed my order with King and it is shipping today.
 
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KING does have a current lead time of 4-6 weeks.

This is mostly for Extended Travel, Coil Upgrades and
with or without Adjusters.

Standard Travel are usually available and ship right away.

b14e5330-e437-4a56-9d4e-51483b07ab51-800.jpg


_
 
Update - King told me 2-3 weeks max - even for custom orders. And they actually have some items in stock.

I originally ordered my set from Aiden James customs. I just disputed the charge on my card since they rarely reply to follow up emails.

I'm not sure what was going on at Aiden James - but I believe King over them.

Based on the Pelfreybuilt news - I would not recommend ordering from.

I just placed my order with King and it is shipping today.

Hmm I wonder what is going on then. Did you order what you originally ordered custom?
 
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This post is in relation to lead times, as well as a shout out to Kings sales guys Jason Gonzalez and Frank Pazunno.

I just got home from Kings shop down in Garden Grove. I had originally ordered a complete suspension from a now defunct and bankrupt vendor down in San Diego. When I picked up my order late in August, 2 pieces of the order were missing and the front coilovers were for a KDSS 5th gen (25001-243AEXT), as well as the wrong spring weight (550 instead of the 650 I ordered). After going back and forth with Wheeler’s (vendor who supplied said defunct San Diego shop) when King didn’t immediately respond to my emails, they were pretty certain the KDSS version would in fact work as long as I swapped out the resi bracket.

When I finally got in touch with King, they said, nope, different bracket, different hose length, different fittings. Not going to work. Best thing I could do was order a new kit and exchange the kit I had. LEAD TIME FOR ALL NEW ORDERS IS 4 WEEKS.

I pleaded with them that I had already rented a bay and lift, and sourced a tech that was going to help me install, and he was coming out from Arizona, this next weekend. After a few emails, they told me to come on down the next day and they would do what they could to get me fixed up.

I drove down this morning, they explained the situation, and told me to hang tight. Jason came back and said it was my lucky day, they had ONE 25001-178A kit in the warehouse and I was welcome to have it. Unfortunately it wasn’t an extended travel kit. And if I REALLY needed that extra .25” that the extended travel kit would give me, I would have to wait the 4 weeks for them to build it in the order it would be put in the system. And to be clear, this is the start of their busy season, it only gets longer from here. Best time to order is mid summer, when almost no one is desert running.

I know I’m a small fish in a big pond, and King is a race focused suspension company, built to service some of the biggest race teams out there, so for two guys in sales to go above and beyond to make my situation right gave me all the reassurance I needed that I made the right decision in going with them.

Now to get it all installed!! I can’t wait until Saturday!!!
 
One last update, something that may be common knowledge but I just found out today in an email from Jason over at King, and may save some people on potential lead times.

The rear shocks from King are the same for both the 4th gen and 5th gen, even though they have different part numbers (25001-125[AEXT] for the 4th gen and 25001-279[AEXT] for the 5th gen).

So if you are shopping and the vendor is out of one, ask if they have a set of the other, may save you a couple weeks.
 
I’d love to ditch those S shaped bars anyways. They already hold the RCI skid like a 1/2” lower now lost another 3/4” to the sway bar drop...

When I installed my RCI skids roughly a year ago, I came across the exact same problem, and I spent a good part of a day searching for what the hell those S-brackets actually did. What I found was that they serve two purposes. 1. They are a head on collision impact support bracket that attempts to keep the lower radiator frame crossmember from collapsing into the engine block during a front end collision. The stock “bash plates” have little to no compressive strength to accomplish this task. And 2. They act as backing strength for your stock skid plates. If there are other uses for them, please let me know.

This is absolutely MY OWN judgement call, but I ended up pulling mine off, gaining back some clearance, and using my RCI skids as the compression supports for the radiator crossmember. Since RCI gussets their skids at the bend, I felt like that was enough strength. I have since come down fairly hard on my front skid a number of times, and although the aluminum does have gashes to show for it, the lines are still straight and they seem to take the weight of the vehicle very well.

In fact, one of the first things I did after removing the brackets was jack the front end of the truck up with two bottle jacks about 4” in on either side of the front skid to test the yield strength of the aluminum. It didn’t budge, and that was good enough for me. I don’t try to smash my way over obstacles, but it’s good to know that it will hold up if I come down hard on it.

Another upgrade I made was ditching the supplied bolts with some grade 8 units for attaching the skids to the front frame crossmember that would certainly hold up a lot better in a collision due to increased shear strength.

Again, this was a personal decision based on risk/reward analysis, and knowing the consequences before I removed them.
 
my shock order, direct from king, arrives tomorrow.

they are not extended travel - but they do have adjusters.

order direct from king if you want to cut out small shop "excuses" of why it takes so long to get shocks and why they are "too busy" to reply to customer order inquiries while they are all over social "overlanding" with buddies.
 
When I installed my RCI skids roughly a year ago, I came across the exact same problem, and I spent a good part of a day searching for what the hell those S-brackets actually did. What I found was that they serve two purposes. 1. They are a head on collision impact support bracket that attempts to keep the lower radiator frame crossmember from collapsing into the engine block during a front end collision. The stock “bash plates” have little to no compressive strength to accomplish this task. And 2. They act as backing strength for your stock skid plates. If there are other uses for them, please let me know.

This is absolutely MY OWN judgement call, but I ended up pulling mine off, gaining back some clearance, and using my RCI skids as the compression supports for the radiator crossmember. Since RCI gussets their skids at the bend, I felt like that was enough strength. I have since come down fairly hard on my front skid a number of times, and although the aluminum does have gashes to show for it, the lines are still straight and they seem to take the weight of the vehicle very well.

In fact, one of the first things I did after removing the brackets was jack the front end of the truck up with two bottle jacks about 4” in on either side of the front skid to test the yield strength of the aluminum. It didn’t budge, and that was good enough for me. I don’t try to smash my way over obstacles, but it’s good to know that it will hold up if I come down hard on it.

Another upgrade I made was ditching the supplied bolts with some grade 8 units for attaching the skids to the front frame crossmember that would certainly hold up a lot better in a collision due to increased shear strength.

Again, this was a personal decision based on risk/reward analysis, and knowing the consequences before I removed them.

Thats the exact conclusion ive come to on their function. Now a front on wreck will provide a lot more force than the Alu skid can handle VS the steel tube of those brackets, but at that point you're probably hosed anyways. I'm thinking those brackets need to go. At this point I'm loosing an inch plus becuase of them.
 
Thats the exact conclusion ive come to on their function. Now a front on wreck will provide a lot more force than the Alu skid can handle VS the steel tube of those brackets, but at that point you're probably hosed anyways. I'm thinking those brackets need to go. At this point I'm loosing an inch plus becuase of them.

I was actually surprised at how light the brackets were when I removed them. I thought they would be much heavier. When you go to purchase them through any dealer website, they don’t list the type of steel they are made of. But if they are similar to the body mounts and made of super high strength steel than I am in absolute agreeance with you about them being stronger than the aluminum skid plate. My line of thinking was more about how much more horizontal surface area I was replacing them with by going with the skid plate as the support. My skids are bolted flush to the crossmember now instead of spaced lower to accommodate the S-brackets.

I’m not an engineer by any means, but with my front bumper and upgraded skids I’m assuming I’ve gained some strength over a stock vehicle when it comes to front end collisions. I should say, I’m hoping, lol.

But I’m also in agreeance that even if it has a little less compressive strength, I really want that extra inch back in clearance.
 
I was actually surprised at how light the brackets were when I removed them. I thought they would be much heavier. When you go to purchase them through any dealer website, they don’t list the type of steel they are made of. But if they are similar to the body mounts and made of super high strength steel than I am in absolute agreeance with you about them being stronger than the aluminum skid plate. My line of thinking was more about how much more horizontal surface area I was replacing them with by going with the skid plate as the support. My skids are bolted flush to the crossmember now instead of spaced lower to accommodate the S-brackets.

I’m not an engineer by any means, but with my front bumper and upgraded skids I’m assuming I’ve gained some strength over a stock vehicle when it comes to front end collisions. I should say, I’m hoping, lol.

But I’m also in agreeance that even if it has a little less compressive strength, I really want that extra inch back in clearance.


UGH that gap where you bolt the Skid on top of the S brackets drives me absolutely bonkers. SO they bent the Skid to wrap perfectly around that frame piece on the front, but it stood off like an inch becuase of those 2 sbrackets. I'd feel better knowing the skid is bolted flush up to the frame there. I'm doing it man!
 
UGH that gap where you bolt the Skid on top of the S brackets drives me absolutely bonkers. SO they bent the Skid to wrap perfectly around that frame piece on the front, but it stood off like an inch becuase of those 2 sbrackets. I'd feel better knowing the skid is bolted flush up to the frame there. I'm doing it man!

So here’s something to consider. I just finished removing the skid to do some adjusting to my front bumper and clean out some freshly laid asphalt off out of some crevices.

Anyway, long story short, I noticed a large gash (less than 1/16th deep, but noticeable) right in the middle of the skid, but on the engine side, which I thought was weird. It lined up with the front diff, and sure enough as I’m reinstalling it, I can see that the the diff is making contact with the skid plate. I guess it has been for some time now. The diff looks fine, absolutely no damage or even scuffs. I suppose it’s been taking small amounts of aluminum off at a time.

So I put a few washers in between the front crossmember and between the front and mid skid, and it looks as though I have a few paper widths between the diff and the skid.

I’m installing my new suspension on Saturday, so I think I’m going to remove my diff drop kit and see if that helps any, although I’ve heard it only rotates the diff, not really drop it any, so I’m wondering if I’m just SOL.

If that’s the case, it looks like I’m back using some washers to get the clearance. But even if that is the case, I think I’ll cut some 2” strips of aluminum from Home Depot, and use a full length spacer as opposed to washers.

Damn.
 
my shock order, direct from king, arrives tomorrow.

they are not extended travel - but they do have adjusters.

order direct from king if you want to cut out small shop "excuses" of why it takes so long to get shocks and why they are "too busy" to reply to customer order inquiries while they are all over social "overlanding" with buddies.

So you were able to get them in 5 days? That’s great turnaround time. Congrats! And honestly, the way Kings sales rep was explaining the 1/4” (1/2” at the wheel) difference in “extended travel” vs. standard to me wasn’t convincing me that the 4 week lead time was worth it when they had what I needed in stock.

I’m literally 45 minutes away from King, which is one of the very important reasons I chose them. They’ve always answered the phone and got me speaking to either a tech or sales rep within 5 minutes.

The fact that I can drive down there and exchange, modify, or pick up parts is gravy. In 2 years when I do a rebuild, I’m just boxing them up and driving them down to the shop for a custom valving job, if it’s even needed. I’m pretty confident that I’m going to find a street setting and a couple off-road settings that I like with the adjusters.
 

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