Knock sensor location

[SixxiA]

Knock sensor location - Resolved.

At 130,000 miles, my knock sensor decided to trigger a number 52 Multi-function indicator lamp (idiot light) to go on.

A 52 error code on the 95 4Runner I own specifies that the knock sensor isn't responding.

Soooo, I went to go buy a knock sensor. I went to Auto Zone and they ordered me a BWD Automotive (part S8643) knock sensor. The sensor they gave me has one electrical lead from its connector.

Problem: I found what I think to be the knock sensor, towards the firewall, directly under the heater core hoses, but that sensor and its cable have two electrical connectors. Not the correct sensor.

1. Is the BWD part S8643 the correct part? If not, what is?
2. That two-lead sensor I found.... that's the knock sensor I need to replace, right? If not, where is the knock sensor and could someone include a photo?

 

[90toytruck.]

the knock sensor is located under the plenum and intake in the middle of block going to take a little bit to r&r it have to pull the timing belt water pump all of it . chances are the wiring to the sensor is corroded and the sensor is ok . the sensor im sure was not cheep so you might want to check out your wiring before installing sensor. Also if you have not already done the head gaskets you might want to consider doing them while you in there already .

 

[SixxiA]

Found it

Found the knock sensor in a diagram... Hope this helps with anyone who also needs to diagnose their knock sensor. It's horrible job, just FYI.

:ybrick: Look for "K 1"

 

[90toytruck.]

:roadkill: Told ya it's a job !!

 

[Dylan]

So this topic has been discussed numerous times across the internet, yet there are no accurate descriptions of where EXACTLY the knock sensor wire emerges. I've uploaded some pics of my '94 3.0 3vz engine. If someone could determine for me where it is, I would greatly appreciate it, as would many others who've had the same issue.

In a couple pics there appears to be where the knock sensor wiring emerges, but I'm not certain.

 

[Hyde802]

Thats where it comes up. Heres a pic w/o the plenum. Hope this helps.

The knock sensor wire is the black plug on the drivers side where the flue rail would be. It all need to come off to change it. Its a little intimidating, but not that bad. Just take your time.

 

[mikedks]

Took this picture last Sunday before I put the heads back on. Directly in the center of the block, slightly toward the back is the knock sensor, screws directly into the block. As you can see, it is a very large job to remove and replace the knock sensor, as a previous poster said, you may as well do the head gaskets, waterpump and timing belt at the same time.

 

[Dylan]

As stated in my post, I'm only concerned with the wiring TO the knock sensor...this is also a leading cause of a code 52 CEL. The wires are brittle and can wear over time. So back to my question, is that in fact the wire? I'd rather replace the cheap wire with minimal labor than go to all the trouble and find out the sensor is fine and the wire was the culprit, as many 2nd gen owners have found out over the years.

 

[mikedks]

Two things, first I have a brand spanking new knock sensor wire that I will connect and take a picture for you. Second, ya still gotta do all the work to get to the knock sensor to disconnect it. Whether you replace the sensor or the wire, its still a big job.

 

[Hyde802]

:iagree:The wire plugs into the top of the sensor. So like Mike said, you have to strip the motor down this far anyway.

 

[mikedks]

Here's a couple of fresh pictures with the new knock sensor wire laying where it should go. I would plug it in, but apparently its the wrong one!

For me, I'm replacing not only the knock sensor(mine was in about 2-3 quarts of oil) and the pigtail, but i'm also replacing the water bypass tube that also goes under the manifold. In addition, I also replaced the starter while I was at it. Hope to god that you never have to change the starter, with the heads off, exhaust off, basically whole engine stripped, I still needed to drop the a/c compressor, and even then, I couldn't see one of the two bolts that needed to come out. OMG!!!

 

[Dylan]

Haha. Thanks for all the advice/instructions. I've learned something. I know there is a thread on the necessary disassembly for the KS replacement. I intend to take photos of the process to upload to the forum, hope it goes well!

 

[Dylan]

Does anyone know if there is compatability amongst 4R and other toyota models with a v6 for the knock sensor? I'd like to hit a scrap yard and pull one off a camry or something, to save money.

 

[Jayy_em]

Does anyone know what the part number is for the knock sensor wiring?

 

[willyt4r]

post 91 model year

82219-35010 (08/1991 - 10/1995) WIRE SENSOR
I believe
:car:

 

[usarmy1212]

I know this is an old topic but I've got an issue that won't go away. So I had a head gasket failure new to Toyotas!! Replaced had no codes reassembled got ks code this is a 90runner 3.0. Pulled it back apart replaced pig tail and ks with aftermarket. But still getting same issue also replaced the ecm and still at 1800 rpm cel comes on. I'm stumped read lots of post and things but nothing that can really explain why it won't go away. Would old fuel stuck injector cause this?? I'm going bald from this thing!! Should I just drive it for awhile with new fuel??

 

[JasonHandley]

I know this is an old topic but I've got an issue that won't go away. So I had a head gasket failure new to Toyotas!! Replaced had no codes reassembled got ks code this is a 90runner 3.0. Pulled it back apart replaced pig tail and ks with aftermarket. But still getting same issue also replaced the ecm and still at 1800 rpm cel comes on. I'm stumped read lots of post and things but nothing that can really explain why it won't go away. Would old fuel stuck injector cause this?? I'm going bald from this thing!! Should I just drive it for awhile with new fuel??

im dealing with the same thing, replaced KS, ECM, new harness to ECM from KS, basically everything was replaced that is in connection with the KS. Still have code 53 coming on when under load at 1500 or so RPM.

completely frustrated as it was not an easy task replacing now 2 KS thinking the first one was faulty

 

[willyt4r]

OEM I is best

I:jump: too had to replace the KS after a engine rebuild- in case only a OEM KS will fix the issue.89615-20010

 

[JasonHandley]

Used oem parts, wire had no resistance to ground, I'm stumped

 

[Ursula2010]

94 Toyota 3.0 SR5 Knock sensor

I recently had to to a valve job on my truck as it now has 268,000 on the clock and was having a slight miss. Sure enough on the right head, it had two burnt valves. I used my local rebuilder on heads. I purchased all new gaskets and pig tail for knock sensor and replaces all hoses and related since the motor was torn down and also did timing belt service even though I had just done 4,000 miles prior to this valve issue. Toyota wanted 278.00 list for knock sensor and it was on back order. I ordered one through my local parts house and installed along with new wire pig tail for sensor since my original was hard as a rock.
After everthing was done, I fired truck up and went to adjust timing but it was off. That was an easy fix as I forgot to plug in the throttle position sensor plug. Once that was done, I adjusted the timing 10 degrees as specified in FSM. I drove truck and as soon as I went around the corner, the check engine light came on and truck had loss of power. I checked codes and it was 52 knock sensor. I had my doubts with the non toyota sensor when I installed so now I have taken manifolds back off among all other related parts and have ordered toyota knock sensor and another pig tail. I will reassemble on Thursday. Has anyone else had this same issue with a non toyota knock sensor?? Also, my trucks are bone stock with no modifications other then chroming the factory alloy rims and modern stereo upgrades.

thanks
James