koltlt 97 sr5 build thread

Installed a rear LED bar on my Whitson metal works 3/4 roof rack. I also made custom steel led bar mounts for the read. Because I used the conventional aluminum mounts and someone ended up stealing my light bar. And because you can't weld steel to aluminum I had to find a solution. So ended up making mounts of L. This way I can tac weld the SS bolts, and tac weld the mounts to the rack











Also threw a tac weld on the front led bar. The mounts are Slag Factory mounts. After get the rear light stolen I wasn't taking any chances.



 
got this decal overlay that goes over the rear brake light.




fuse box




TEQ aluminum oil cap




TRD aluminum radiator cap cover.




led bar light switches




installed a auto dim rear view mirror with temperature and compass




today I installed scangauge 2. got it for $100 used on eBay





installed lowrange Offroad shift knobs. The transmission knob is TEQ knob. both are aluminum knobs. very nice quality.



just ordered this shift boot

Green Stitching Manual Leather Shift Boot Fits Toyota 4 Runner 4x4 1996 2002 | eBay

my bday was March 15. so I went ahead and ordered from SAVAGE hybrid bumper with winch plate. and the new SAVAGE rear bumper with tire carrier.
 


Installed maglite.

Next things will be, monstaliner the side of fende and rocker panels.

Put savage front and rear new bumpers when I get it

Get 1bew rim/tire spare.

Fix dock sliders

Power wash the carpet

Reppin harness for manual ecu to cancel check engine light

....
 
Also pulled the glove compartment out to access the PCM, to start the repin.

These are the connectors of a 5vzfe 97 M/T 4x4


After removing the glove compartment, the PCM is behind the black trim.



After removing the black trim. The pcm is right there, held by two philips screws. Better to remove them connectors from the PCM, then losen the screws, then pull the PCM out.



The manual pcm is on the left the auto pcm is on the right.

The manual pcm is : 89661-3D310
The auto pcm is : 89661-3D320

So only the second # from last is different between. And this is for 1997.


In the pic above, the manual pcm is on top and auto is on bottom. Clearly the connections are different.
 
I ordered the connectors, they came out to about $40 with shipping. So I'm waiting on the connectors. When I got my manual pcm. I told the guys to pull the engine harness out without cutting it incase I needed it. So I have a solid pin reference. I have the whole manual Engine harness with the connectors attached. So I can double check everything :)

Here's a link to very useful information that I have gathered from different website.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/180875-repinning-auto-harness-use-manual-ecm.html
 
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I'm sharing my own, repin chart that I made my self. This is only for 97. Ive let few people use it and they had success already.




 
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Looks great! Im getting ready to build a full lenght roof rack, front and rear bumpers for my 97. I was thinking about using bedliner for all of them and now that ive seen yours i definitely am! I'm stealing your idea for welding the bolt heads and brackets too so my lights don't dissappear either!
 
Looks great! Im getting ready to build a full lenght roof rack, front and rear bumpers for my 97. I was thinking about using bedliner for all of them and now that ive seen yours i definitely am! I'm stealing your idea for welding the bolt heads and brackets too so my lights don't dissappear either!

Simple tac weld. Remember to use fireproof blankets all around when welding. You gonna have to either weld metal mounts or make custom ones like I did. And I highly doubt someone is going to break a weld with Allen keys lol
 
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Truck looks good! I could have really used that printout a year ago. How come you decided not to use the manual harness?
 
Truck looks good! I could have really used that printout a year ago. How come you decided not to use the manual harness?

Honestly. I don't want to go through the hassle of swapping harness, taking the intake of. And I heard even if you swap harness, you have to repin the dash harness. Although I don't know if that part is true. I feel like a repin is easier. It's actually cheaper to. A pcm is cheaper then the engine harness. I paid $70 for the manual pcm and like $170 for the harness. I have both. I'm planning on using the manual harness as a reference, then selling it.
 
It was a pain to take off the intake and you do need to buy new gaskets. Not having that nice print out you made, I reasoned it was less work than repining all of it. The other two plugs in the harness that do not run to the ecu are the same plugs for both manual and auto and are pinned in pretty much the same place. Obviously you will have extra wires left over from both the engine harness and also the dash harness.
 
If you use the manual harness three of the plugs go right into the manual ecu and the fourth plug comes from the dash and needs to be repined. There are 2 wires that had me confused for a while because they run out of the ecu for about a foot and then loop back to the plugs not in the ecu. One of them was for the OBD
 
Yes, I swapped the engine harness from the auto harness to the manual harness when I swapped to the 5 speed. My dash harness is still the auto because there is no way I was going to change that. Other than having to remove the intake to run the wires it was not hard, took about three hours. I was not very confident about repining the whole ecu so using the manual engine harness made wiring it a lot easier. I am curious how you ran your reverse lights. Did you leave the park /neutral switch attached?
 

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