koltlt 97 sr5 build thread

I always clean out the top of the shock mounts. Pita but so much dirt just sits in there. Bad design.

Yes I agree. Very bad design. Probably explains why they still sell the replacement part lol. I. An easily drill a bigger hole now. Or add another hole.

I'll make sure to take photos of the project.
 
for the LED turn signals did you have to use a resistor for each LED (so 4 total), or 1 per side (2 total)?
 
for the LED turn signals did you have to use a resistor for each LED (so 4 total), or 1 per side (2 total)?

Just one resistor for each side. So total of 2. You just have to put all the wires into one, the ends with crimp on connector is the end that plugs into the OEM turn signal harness. . BUT ONLY FOR TURN SIGNALS! Not for the regular white ones.

Feel free to ask me about those lights. I really took my time and they came out awesome :)! And waterproof.

Yes shock mounts are replaceable. As in , cut the old one out and WELD the new in.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so with my rear shock mount rusting through. I have the replacement OEM parts for it. I also had bought a 98 4Runner with my friend. He took the interior and some. And my parts were, the elocker and front diff and rest of the truck.

I think it's a good time to swap the axle in. Because my current axle needs to be removed to fix my shock mounts.

I'm really glad that my friend is doing everything for me. As I am in a cast due to broken wrist. Unfortunately he doesn't have his old shop, which had a lift. But you do what you have to do.

I'll let the pics speak for it self.



The man him self. Making it happen.




We decided to remove the body was easier then for my friend to lay on the ground and do the work. Plus we got someone buying the transmission/transfer case. So yea, easy to remove everything with body of.

Now, someone apparently had replaced or removed the transmission at one point Because one of the top bolts was just sitting there. No even threaded in lol. And one bolt was missing.








This guys came with a sick 4Runner. To pick up the transmission for his friend.


The bad boy it self.


My goal is to bring this axle to a sand blasting place. And see if they will sand blast the outside. Going to duck tape the elocker and tell them to stay away from it.



Axle is in good shape. Oily stuff is PB blaster. So yea,... more photos to come.
 
I'm jealous! I would remove the locker before blasting. Why did you cut the old frame? It looked sellable.

If I remove the locker. It would open. I duck tape of the breathers, wires. I highly doubt it will damage anything.

We cut the frame because we are junking everything else. We don't need it.

Know what is crazy. This white 4Runner. Had a bottom end knock. Basically I was told the oil was never changed. So the owner never took care of the truck. Yet it had barley any rust. The rear shock mounts. We're SOLID lol. Here I am busting my ass to preserve it and I get the shitty end of the stick. On the other end. The diff fluid was clean :)
 
Last edited:
Got the front diff out.


OIL everywhere lol. Must of been from changing the oil. Nice clean up and it will be back to life. On the other hand. All this oil kept it from rusting hahaha.


Little bit of porn.
 
Second coat of primer.


Brushing the paint tried my hardest to get into the tiny cracks. Seems good. Hardest part is under the coil mount.




Taped the shock drain hole into a much bigger hole. Hard to see. Because I just laid monstaliner chassis saver paint.







My friend is going to spray the rear axle with chassis saver.
 
Questions. Is there a separate brain for the locker ?

Yes. Somewhere around the left kick panel. Check to see if yours is pre-wired and has plugs (if you haven't). IF it's not you'll still be okay, it's not hard to wire it up to make a working locker with a dash light even. That's how I did the 96 with no pre-wiring.

Wiring comes into the cab through the access under the left rear seat, you prolly already know that. Sorry, hard to keep all the awesome build threads separate in the noggin.

If you want some wiring diagrams for no computer they're all over and in my build thread too. Post 2 for table of contents, under E-Locker.
 
Last edited:
Yes. Somewhere around the left kick panel. Check to see if yours is pre-wired and has plugs (if you haven't). IF it's not you'll still be okay, it's not hard to wire it up to make a working locker with a dash light even. That's how I did the 96 with no pre-wiring.

Wiring comes into the cab through the access under the left rear seat, you prolly already know that. Sorry, hard to keep all the awesome build threads separate in the noggin.

If you want some wiring diagrams for no computer they're all over and in my build thread too. Post 2 for table of contents, under E-Locker.

Thanks. I look under the kick panel but couldn't find anything. I have 2 plugs near the steering colum. One white and one white. I also have a black plug under the rear passanger seat. Next to the gas tank. Comparing it to donor truck and other pics online. Looks like that's part of a elocker. However I have nothing plugged into it. And my white plug next to the black plug. Has less wires then a elocker harness.

Only way I know so far to wire in the elocker without OEM Ecu is a custom harness. But all these don't offer the use of OEM switch or RR DIFF LOCK indicator light.

If you could share some diagrams, photos I'd appreciate that. I'd like to use my OEM switch and the oem indicator light. If possible

I know 12voltguy makes a harness. Again. Can't use OEM switch.

I ended up finding the brain for the locker Ecu in the donor truck. However can't find a plug in my truck. Not sure if I am prewired at all.
 
Thanks. I look under the kick panel but couldn't find anything. I have 2 plugs near the steering colum. One white and one white. I also have a black plug under the rear passanger seat. Next to the gas tank. Comparing it to donor truck and other pics online. Looks like that's part of a elocker. However I have nothing plugged into it. And my white plug next to the black plug. Has less wires then a elocker harness.

Only way I know so far to wire in the elocker without OEM Ecu is a custom harness. But all these don't offer the use of OEM switch or RR DIFF LOCK indicator light.

If you could share some diagrams, photos I'd appreciate that. I'd like to use my OEM switch and the oem indicator light. If possible

I know 12voltguy makes a harness. Again. Can't use OEM switch.

I ended up finding the brain for the locker Ecu in the donor truck. However can't find a plug in my truck. Not sure if I am prewired at all.

I have plugs near the column like that too, not elocker related.

I use the oem switch and the cluster indicator light. Without the ecu it won't flash so it's up to you to pay attention to whether it locks or not. It's not hard to tell. It will also lock no matter if in 4wd or not, and try to lock if you're crazy enough to push the button at whatever speed. Common sense must prevail. :)

It starts around post 1855, but there's a gist of it all post 1884
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 95 - YotaTech Forums

post 1881 are links that I found most helpful.

Couple o' pics to pique:
P5182483_zpsbaa0c6a7.jpg~original

I'm at 288,xxx miles now, no problems.

I moved my oe wiring at the rear seat over to the elocker wiring connector for one less connector.
Lockerwiring_zps4a04dd08.png~original


lockerwiring3_zpsc086a792.png~original
 
Thanks. I'll study the diagram see what I can understand. Lol at locking it at any speed. Yes clearly the Ecu is dummy proof. Can't imagine locking it at high speed. Anyways, I wonder if you could wire in the Ecu in line with your diagram.
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top